Hyundai - Elantra :: 2008 - Constant Sound And Mild Vibration On The Pedal
Jul 29, 2014
I have a 2008 elantra. It has 71600 miles on it. New brakes, & tires. 2 tires were changed year and 2 more the previous year. I have been hearing a constant sound and starting to feel a mild vibration on the pedal. First I went to a mechanic and he said I need to change the belts. Got that done, no respite. Next went to another, he said i probably need to get the wheel alignment done as the tires seem 'cupped' on the inside.
Went to the dealership, they looked at it said the same abt needing wheel alignment and asked me to change the timing belt!. Still same sound. Went to Sams club to look at the tires & they said check the brakes, tires are fine, it cannot wear out so soon and its not covered under warranty. Brakes got checked out as fine. Went back to Sams again and was told to check Suspension and Struts this time. Went to a mechanic and he gave me an all clear this morning! I am going on a road trip and don't want to be in an accident!
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On my daily commute in stop-and-go traffic, on a bridge, headed downhill, suddenly neither the accelerator nor the brake pedal would engage in my 2008 Elantra. Cars in front of me had sped up, then ground to a halt, and I was coasting downhill toward them, at a pace too fast for the handbrake to stop me. I couldn't downshift either (the car has automatic transmission, but shifting to low lets the engine slow you down). With nothing else to try, I shut off the ignition and then turned it on and, amazingly, all was back to normal. The dealer didn't find any trouble codes in the computer so they say the car must be OK to drive. But I don't feel safe driving the car. This might have happened and what I can do to fix it?
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After driving in the rain and starting the car again after a few hours (as in starting the car again after work, or starting it first thing in the morning) the following happens: As soon as I release my foot from the brake pedal to go into "drive," there is a "thunk" sound from the rear of the car as well as a lurch. A soft "thunk" may have a soft 'thunk" sound, but a louder thunk will have a pronounced lurch/jerkiness from the rear. The car drives OK and has no problem with braking when I apply the brakes.
It happens only after driving in the rain. The dealer says the sound and movement are the normal result with disc brakes wearing off the rust on the rotors. Other wet weather concern (happened once): while driving in a couple inches of snow, the brakes began to grind and eventually failed to bring the car to a stop. Dealer rotated the rear rotors (due to uneven wear, although I had the car only two weeks at the time) and installed new rear brake pads. He said grinding brakes on an Elantra are normal in rainy, snowy, and dusty conditions. Is my car really safe to drive? Is there a problem? I'm considering trading it it as I don't feel safe. It is an otherwise OK car.
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Working on a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. 4 disc, no ABS. Problem is the brake pedal goes to the floor without much force. I bled all 4 lines, but no improvement. Rigid lines from the brake master cylinder to the rear wheels were very corroded, so I ran new lines. The old ones pretty much fell apart when I took them off the car. I also replaced the brake master cylinder. I tried to bleed the brakes again, but couldn't get much (if any) fluid pressure at any of the wheels. Yes, I found a couple leaks at the junction points for the rigid lines, but I re-flanged those connections and got rid of all the leaks. Still no real pressure when trying to bleed.
So, I tried a second, then a third master cylinder with a new attached resevoir. No improvement. I bench bled the snot out of this third master cylinder because the symptoms clearly suggest air was likely trapped somewhere in the system. I used a wood dowel to fully actuate the cylinder many times after all the air had been released while I had short clear hoses running from the master cylinder outlets into a little plastic cup filled with clean brake fluid. I wanted to make sure there was no way air could be in the MC, and no air drawn back in when I released the wood dowel.
Next, I quickly capped off the MC outlets and connected a hose to each brake line individually where they normally screw into the MC. I then let clear fluid drain through each line until it was spilling out clear of each caliper bleeder with no air bubbles. So, no lines are kinked, clogged, or contain air.
I took every precaution to keep air out of the system, yet when I push the brake pedal, there is still virtually no real pressure generated by the MC. The power booster rod is shoving the master cylinder in as it should. I don't think there's any problem with the power booster.
I've used gravity bleeding, manual "push & hold the brake pedal" bleeding, vacuum bleeding, and I'm certain there is no air in the lines or calipers. Still no significant pressure coming from the MC when I push & hold the brake pedal to the floor. It takes maybe 20-25 pounds of foot pressure, but always goes completely to the floor with all the bleeders closed. If the pedal is held to the floor, fluid slowly seeps from the bleeders. I'm used to it spraying when doing this on a healthy brake system.
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My rear brakes developed a squeal when the brake pedal was released. My dealer replaced the rear brakes & disks at about 57000 miles. I had taken a salesman from the dealer to get an appraisal & he told me that it sounded like a simple adjustment would fix it. 2005 Elantra
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Just had all the engine mounts replaced in our 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 115,000 miles. Something new has emerged: When stopped with the engine running, there is a loud vibration in Drive, Reverse and Park, but not in Neutral. What do you think is up with this?
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My Hyundai Sonata 2008 vibrates when driving at 40 km/h. Steering wheel doesn't shake, only car vibrates. And this happens regardless of pressing gas pedal or not. Front wheels are balanced(as the car is front wheel drive) yesterday but no success.
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I just noticed that when I start my car I hear a constant whine sound. When I press on the gas it gets louder. When I'm stopped I hear it whining. What it may be?
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My 2007 manual transmission Hyundai elantra makes a single "tch" sound in the front passenger side. It does it at high speeds in 5th gear over long distances. Also if the car sits for a while it will make the noise right after shifting to second gear if the rpms are a bit high. What it could be?
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My friend got her front brakes and rotors replaced a few days ago and now the brake pedal is vibrating at various times. It happens when slowing down and at a complete stop. Sounds like the ABS is kicking in to me, BUT is also does it sometimes when driving at low speeds (under 40mph) without pressing the brake pedal. No loud clicking noises, just a quick steady vibration felt at the brake pedal/flooboard.
The service was not done at Hyundai dealership. She is out of town at the moment so we haven't had a chance to take it to the shop yet. She called, they played dumb apparently. I don't know enough about Hyundais to diagnose.
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My 2008 Prius has started making a noticeable soft whirring sound whenever the engine is running. You can hear it both inside and outside of the car. The sound lasts exactly 30 seconds, then pauses for 4 seconds, than repeats . When the car is turned off, the sound can be heard for about another 10 minutes before it shuts off entirely.
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I recently bought a 2009 Hyundai Elantra Touring. It only has 53,000 miles but I notice a rumbling sound that corresponds to the wheels moving at least about 15 - 20 mph. It's FWD and the front two tires were replaced recently by the previous owner. The mechanic who checked it out before I bought it thought that it was the rear bearings, but when he looked at the tires, he was pretty sure the sound was coming from the tires. I don't mind the noise, but if it's not the tires, it's something I should fix.
I took it to a shop today and the mechanic today and he drove around with me and though the sound was coming from the front of the car and thought it was either something with the rotors or the bearings. I've gotten the speed upwards of 70mph on the highway and I wouldn't say the sound gets any worse when you do that. (I mean you can still hear it, but for instance I didn't even notice it on my first test drive, and the radio mostly drowns it out.) Also given that these two mechanics can't seem to tell whether the sound is from the front or the back, I'm not sure that rotating the tires and listening is going to be useful as a lay person.
It's not a "clunk da clunk" sound, rather it's like a vacuum cleaner hum. Also maybe relevant, the rotors and pads on the rear wheels need to be replaced pretty soon.
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See the video, need to figure out this sound. It is currently at the dealership but I don't have much faith in them rectifying the problem : [URL] ....
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I have a 2012 Hyundai Elantra and I have had it for almost a year. Its been snowing here in Tennessee. I went to start my car and wont start. All the lights come on, radio, etc.I have tried jumping the car and wont work, even tried changing out battery. Not sure if theres any known issues going on or if it has to do with it being cold.
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My 2006 Hyundai Elantra will not start. I went out yesterday to start it to leave for an appointment and I heard the battery try to engage and then only click, click, click. Is it the battery? I've thus far had no issues or problems with this car. I'm going to try and get it jump-started this morning to bring it to the mechanic. Could it be the starter?
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My daughter's 2008 Elantra starts fine and seems to be idling okay. But recently at seemingly random times the car will stall within a few yards after she starts driving from a cold start. She will start the car, start to drive and then all of the dash lights come on and the engine shuts off. So far she has been able to turn the key and immediately restart the car and then it is fine after that. The problem always seems to occur after she has driven somewhere, let the car sit for a couple hours and then tries to drive again. We took to our mechanic and they said there are no diagnostic codes and the fuel pressure seems good. They did identify some kind of voltage drop/issue with the mass airflow sensor and replaced it. But a day later the problem occurred again. Mechanic seems stumped. I'm very worried about my teenage daughter driving a car that randomly stalls.
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I bought an Elantra Gls 2013 automatic 4 doors approx 6 months ago. I have 2 issues with it ....
1- there are lack of power/acceleration issues when driving at speeds between 60 kms/hr and 80 kms/hr. If I drive at 80 kms/hr for awhile and have to slow down like say 60 or 55 kms/hr and need to reaccelerate again, the car seems to lose all its momentum. It's like the automatic transmission didn't downshift and is still in 6th gear at 1500 rpms when I slowed down to 55 kms/hr and ready to reaccelerate. I try to accelerate slowly and it's like there's an air bubble underneath the gas pedal (or resistance). I really have to step on the gas harder so the rpms will go to 2500 and then the car really picks up. It's not a steady regular acceleration....???
2- There's this vibration like feeling on the gas pedal and around driver side floor when the rpm reaches approx 2500 ( when the transmission shifts gears ). I can deal with the noisy engine but when you also feel the vibration / like metal when the car reaches 2500 rpms, it is really really annoying.
Is this common?
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I bought a new 2012 Elantra in March. Every so often I get a strange vibration through the brake pedal when I'm at a complete stop (red light/stop sign). It happens intermittently and I can't narrow down any exact cause. It happens when the engine is cold, fully warmed up, A/C on, A/C off, only been driving for a few minutes or driving for a few hours. No system lights come on. I've taken the car to the dealer twice and discussed this with them. They've not hooked it up for any diagnostics as yet. I don't think it's a vacuum line, engine or transmission issue because it is intermittent. I also don't think it's a defective engine/transmission mount. Could it possibly be the ABS module?
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2012 gti, completely stock, 21,000 miles. Perfectly smooth ride right up to 69mph, then mild/moderate vibration in the steering wheel at 70+mph... figured it was an out of balance wheel up front, had the tires rotated, but still vibrates. I suppose ALL the wheels could be out of balance, but seems unlikely?? Will have the balance checked on all wheels...
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My 2008 Hyundai Elantra likes to play KeepAway.
The driver's door randomly locks itself when I get out of the car. Just the driver's door. I have learned either to make sure the others are unlocked or to take my keys with me, even if it's just to pump gas.
Might this be some easily replaceable or resettable circuitry, or do I just have to live with it?
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I have owned this car from new and it currently has 32k miles. The only fuel used has been 85 octane or occasionally a tank of 93 octane. There is a distinct hesitation when accelerating from speeds of 10 to 15 mph and I do not believe it is due to the transmission shifting. I did move to my current state,California, from Pennsylvania and was told by my local Hyundai dealer service department that because California has a different gasoline formulation from most other states as well as a summer and winter blend to reduce emissions it is recommended to run a bottle of injector cleaner every 15k miles.
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