Hyundai - Elantra :: 2007 - Check Engine Light Turned On
Jan 25, 2013
I have a Hyundai Elantra 2007 with 123,000 miles on it. Three weeks ago the engine About two weeks ago the engine light turned on. I took it into an auto parts store so they could use the digital code reader, it said the upstream O2 sensor needed to be replaced. I replace it and still have bad gas mileage, the second time I had it read with the code read it said both of the O2 sensors were bad so I replaced the downstream one week later. There was still bad gas mileage and the code reader still said it was both of the O2 sensors, the auto part's representative said when the engine light is on that the computer turns off the O2 sensors so he recommended to erase the codes on my car with the code reader (I pushed the button and he looked away). Still nothing changed so I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery to restart the computer. Still horrible gas mileage with no engine light anymore. Gas mileage averages about 15 mpgs in city and 32-35 on the highway. The highway seems about right but I've never seen any mpg below 30 for city mpg before this problem. I also cleaned the mass air flow sensor with mass air flow cleaner after dealing with the O2 sensor. All preventive maintenance is kept up by me and I have had no problems with this car before. Water pump replacement, timing belt replacement, and transmission flush have occurred in the last ~50,000 miles.
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My girl friends car is doing something interesting, well it started off the car died while she was driving home from work, so I towed it with my truck home, the alternator had went bad so i changed that, but no here is where the problem comes in that i cant figure out, the car will start and run for about 3 miles than it will die in and out, loose power but not kill the engine and the check engine light flashes, and now the radio does not work at all (at idle or running) and the head lights are dim.i tested the battery, it was with in ranges for cold starting, output while the car is on and a few other thing, i re checked my belts and they are all tight and in the correct alignment ...
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While on my 20 mile commute my check engine light turned on, attached the code reader to the car and got codes P0422 and U0D00. Looked up the P0422 code to find "Caralyst efficiency below normal (bank 1)" I have a list of possible fixes but have no luck finding out about the U0D00 code. I notice I lose and a quart of oil every month and when I start the car, the first 5 seconds or so the engine revs to 4000 rpm.
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I always take care of my car oil changes on time. And in the last week my check engine light turned on for a few hours then turned off. And today it turned on again. I kinda regret getting rid of my scan gauge now.
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The headlights have been giving us fits because we can't shut them off when we turn off the car. We have to start the car, sometimes drive it around and shut off lights before shutting off the car. And this process has to often be repeated several times before it works. Yesterday the lights came on by themselves when my husband turned off the car in the garage and he couldn't get them off so he disconnected the battery.
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I just bought a 2008 Hyundai Accent about 2 weeks ago. It has 65,000 miles on it. One week after purchase the check engine light came on. The dealership looked at it and said it was just a leak from the gas cap. So I purchased a new gas cap and the light is still on. I had the guys at AutoZone hook it up to their computer and they said the same thing. They also said that if the light is still on after putting on a new gas cap it could be the fuel injector or a vacuum leak. It has been less than 30 days that I have had this car. What is my next step here?
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Engine light shows" Airbag". Ram Auto did a diagnostic and error code did not show up. Ram tried to delete the code, could not. They suggested search re-calls since this is a hot topic in the news about Hyundai's problem with airbag opening without cause. Did a research and there are no re-call for the year 2003-there are re-call for the year 2004. If the airbag light stays on and there is cause for it to open, it will not.
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The blue cool engine light went off today. What does that mean?
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I have a 2012 hyundai accent. The check engine light came on. The code read knock sensor. Before I could get it into a shop, it went off. It didn't come back for 11 months. When it did come back, the same code was read. Again, it went off the following day before it could be looked at and hasn't been seen since. The shop says that even though there is a history code, it would be hard to diagnose since it isn't an active code. I noticed absolutely no difference in performance when the code was active. Both times it went on, the car was idling for several minutes with the ac on, and it came on as i accelerated onto a highway immediately afterwards. However, it has idled like that many other times without the light coming on as well.
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When I started the car the check engine light came on. Since there had been a lot of rain recently, I thought that perhaps it was an electrical malfunction since the performance of the car did not seem to be affected. I was only a few miles from home and going at a constant speed on the highway. When I slowed down to get off at my exit I noticed that the car wasn't getting up to gear with the same power as it had been. By the time I had to slow down for five or six stop signs, the car was having a lot of trouble getting up to speed, and at the stop sign before my drive way, it stalled and wouldn't start (although it always sounds like it's just about to turn over). The mechanic is suggesting an engine flush and tune up, but both seem a little excessive, especially the engine flush.
2005 Hyundai Sonata (manual transmission)....
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I have a 2001.5 passat and the check engine light turned on. It just so happens that whenever i put gas in the car.... and try to start it back up, it won't start! it takes about 3 or 4 tries for it to start up.
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Bought an R32 yesterday. used of course.. was doing fine feels like a brand new clutch. got it from a ford dealership, and the check engine light just turned on. I will go back for the 14 day policy but i was wondering if it could be my clutch.
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My check engine light has recently turned on in my 2004 hyundai elantra, and since it has come on my car will kick and sound like its going to stall, works but the automatic transmission refuses to shift. This inconsistent because it sometimes works fine with the light on and sometimes the light won't even turn on and everything is ok. What's wrong?
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My check engine light just turned on recently. Just hit 115K miles on my SC430 a few weeks ago. Is there a service that I'm missing? Running absolutely fine, oil change recently as well.
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This morning, I tried to start the 2003 Prius and got a 'check engine' light and nothing. The cabin lights were bright so the 12V looked OK. After three tries, I used the VOM and measured 12.55 V on the battery. But the traction battery level looked unusually low.
So I tried again and it started. Using the ScanGauge, no codes were displayed. So I turned the car off and on three times and cleared the "check engine" light. Then I connected the Auto Ingenuity and read out:
P1636 - HV ECU Malfunction on the HV ECU to ECM bus.
C1213 - HV ECU Communication Circuit Malfunction between HV ECU and Brake ECU
P3002 - HV ECU Communication Malfunction on the HV ECU to Battery ECU
So it looks like there was an HV ECU problem that 'cleared while testing.' Certainly it makes sense to inspect the HV ECU connectors and re-seat them and clean out any debris.
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My 2005 Prius has 105,000 miles. The check engine light came on for the first time ever. Dealer will diagnose tomorrow. If it's the main battery, should I sell it?
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My check engine light went off last month and when I had it looked at my dealership they said it was due to the seal where the gas cap locks into I believe. Anyway, a week later my light went off again and now they are saying it is the charcoal cannister which I found out is very expensive. Here are my two questions. First of all, can I get this part replaced and installed at a non-dealership? My second question is since they reset my check engine light, it came back on a few days later for two days and then turned off completely. Should the light have turned off on its own? Should I be concerned that it is no longer on? It just makes me wonder if they diagnosed this issue correctly or not.
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My check engine light came on at 102,000 miles. The dealer service dept. says that the diagnostic showed no clear cause(?)but I need new spark plugs ($240),ejectors cleaned, and of course the cost of the diagnostic ($130) The total was around $475. Am I being ripped?? My big question is what will they do to get the light out?? Should I disconnect the battery and reset the clock and radio buttons to see if it goes out? Then I can worry again if it comes back on.
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My mother in-law has a 94 Chrysler LHS, 3.5 V6, auto, 66k. Yesterday she was driving home and said the check engine light was on. I went to check it out and the light was not on. The light come on when the key is turned on but goes out when it is started. This is not an OBD-2 car it has a little blue plug and i do not have a code reader for it. Took it to auto zone and they do not have a code reader for this car. Auto Zone and Pep Boys both told me that if the light is off there will not be a code. Further checking on the internet I found out you can get a two digit code by turning the key on and off and count the flashing check engine light. It worked I got code 12 and 51. 51 means lean O2 sensor. If this is true that why does the CEL not stay on. How can I test the O2 sensors?
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Check engine light issue. For the past 3 months, my check engine light has been turning on. The first time it happened, the garage replaced the EVAP Purge Solenoid (which includes the vapor can purge solenoid and the EVAP canister purge solenoid). Of course, a few months later, the check engine light turned on again. The second time, the garage replaced the gas cap. Then the check engine light turned on again the next day.
So, the third time, the garage performed maintenance/repair on the vapor can purge solenoid and the EVAP canister purge solenoid. Of course, three days after driving my car, the check engine light turned back on. I've contacted the garage for the fourth time now. I explained that their diagnostics have obviously been exhausted, and they aren't really sure what the problem is. I'm going back in a few days to speak to the lead mechanic hoping to be compensated for their guess-work or at the least to be given an honest "I don't know" answer.
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I have a 2001 Ford F-150 v6 2wd. A few weeks ago, the check engine light turned on so I drove to the nearest autozone to hook up their computer and see what the error code was. The technician gave me the code (I don't remember it off the top of my head but it wasn't something imminent). Before leaving, I asked him if he could clear the light, figuring that if it didn't come back on after 50 miles, that it might have just been a fluke with one of the truck's sensors. Later that day, I realized that when I started the truck, the check engine light was no longer turning on momentarily the way that all the dashboard lights do to tell you that they're working.
I went back to a different autozone (one closer to my house) and explained the situation. They checked the computer for codes again and found none and said that the light must not be turning on because the bulb is burned out. I find this to be a striking coincidence that the bulb should happen to blow out exactly when the technician used his computer to clear the light. Is it possible that he did something with his computer that permanently disabled the check engine light? It's been a few weeks and I've since bought an inexpensive bluetooth code reader of my own, hooked it up, and found that there is still no active code. Is it possible that the code has returned or will return, but that I won't have a way to know because something he did suppressed not just the light but my car's code reporting mechanism?
For now, the truck drives fine, but I'm afraid to travel long distances when there might be a problem I don't know about.
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