Hyundai - Elantra :: 2005 - New Clutch Not Engaging
Jul 29, 2014
The car is a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with a 5-speed manual transmission. My father and I were replacing a worn out clutch disk on my sisters car. We replaced the clutch disk, pressure plate, and throw out bearing with no problems; however, when we put the transaxles back into the transmission we noticed that they could spin freely despite the transmission being in first gear. The clutch is not engaged even when the clutch pedal isnt being pushed in. We stopped putting the car back together until we could figure out what was wrong with it.
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I drive a 2001 Elantra, 5 speed manual, about 135k km on it which is about 85k miles. Yesterday I felt the clutch pedal was engaging unusually low or was not as resistant to the weight of my leg as is usual. I could drive it without much trouble though.
This morning the pedal went all the way to the floor with virtually no pressure exerted on my half, and shifting gears was pretty much impossible without excessive force, so I parked it and walked to work instead. It felt like I was shifting gears without stepping down on the pedal, even though the pedal was all the way to the floor.
I then checked the fluid in the reservoir and it was at the max, but it was black like oil. I've done some reading and I'm thinking replacing or cleaning the master and slave cylinders could work. Am I way off?
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My 2006 Toyota Avalon Limited AC clutch is not engaging and I am wondering how I can bypass the computer to engage it. I think I have low pressure and I will be recharging the AC with freon.
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When we first bought our white 2013 GT used (21K kms) it made a slight moaning sound when you would start off from a stop while engaging the clutch. Dealer was able to replicate and diagnosed it as a bad clutch release bearing. Replaced it and moaning sound was gone. Free under warranty. Been fine ever since and car is now at 75k kms.
I just drove our other GT (black 69k kms) for the first time in ages as normally another family member drives it. I immediately noticed the same moaning sound when starting from a stop and releasing the clutch. I'm betting it's the same bearing. Is this a common issue?
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My 2003 Hyundai Elantra has 94000 miles and is already on it's second clutch. It is starting to feel like this one is almost toast after only about 25000 miles. It feels like it is slipping starting from a stop (the tachometer goes up, I release the clutch and there is a pause before the car moves) and if I am in 2nd or 3rd gear and I accelerate the tachometer will often jump and the car will lurch. I have had a clutch go out before and it felt very similar to this, I just can't believe that this clutch would only last 25000 miles. I know that you can't adjust the clutch as it is self-tensioning, but I also know the mechanic who put in the second clutch had some problems and it had to be re-serviced after the initial replacement. Is there any way this guy did something wrong that could be fixed? Could the clutch really be worn out after 25000 miles? I'm the only driver and I don't feel like I drive the car too aggressively... If the consensus is that the clutch needs replacement, maybe you could throw out some figures so I know what I am getting into?
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About two months ago I bought a used 2005 Elantra from a reputable dealership. I had my mechanic friend check it out before I bought it and everything seemed fine. This week the check engine light came on. I took it to a shop, they diagnosed the issue and said I needed a new catalytic converter .....
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My 2005 Hyundai Elantra has 85,000 miles and we are having trouble with the gear shift. It will not shift into 1st from neutral but will shift into 1st from 2nd. We recently replaced the clutch (about 3 months ago). We are about to go on a road trip and are wondering whether we should get it checked out before hand.
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I've taken my 2005 Hyundai Elantra (95K miles) to the dealer twice to be serviced because it is jerking while driving - mostly in low speeds, but sometimes even in fifth gear - and occasionally stalls while stopped. the jerking happens while driving, not when the clutch is engaged. The first time I took it to the dealer they said it was a loose battery cable. After about a week the problem started again.
I took the car again to the dealer and they did something like rearrange the ignition coils. It drove better on the test drive and for the past several weeks I have had no problems, but just today the same problem started again. It seems to happen more when the AC is on, but has happened when the AC is off. The dealer also told me the clutch is very worn and that we should have it replaced - I'm hesitant to spend the money replacing the clutch if it's not causing the jerking, i.e., if there is something else wrong with the car. Would a worn clutch cause these symptoms?
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I'm driving Hyundai Elantra 2005 (manual transmission). When the car slows down (no gas pedal, no brake), it makes metallic noise on the right side. It mostly happens when RPM is between 1,500-2,000. When I press the clutch pedal, the noise disappears immediately. I brought the car to a local mechanic once, but he could not figure it out.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra GT Hatchback, and it is not going so well with me at the moment. My thermostat works perfectly fine, but my car is overheating. I've taken it to the shop multiple times but still doesn't seem to get fixed. My coolant seems to be fine, and stays at its level, but what doesn't seem to be fine is that it doesn't seem to be sucking strong enough into the radiator so that it can go to the engine! On the lower level coolant cap (one with the hose attached), it seems to be leaking out of there when the car is hot, as if the coolant is trying to suck into the radiator but not strong enough but yet leaks out of it since it isn't strong enough. My theory is, the cap with the hose isn't on tight enough to fully let the coolant suck through the hose, and so air leaks cause the coolant to leak out of it and not into the radiator.
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I have a pretty bad oil leak from front valve cover but whats odd is that it suddenly stopped showing low on my dip stick. Now it ALWAYS says a quart overfull no matter how much oil is leaking out. Also after driving for awhile it gets a terrible knock. There is no smoke however and engine runs like normal.
The car is a 2005 Hyundai Elantra.
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My rear brakes developed a squeal when the brake pedal was released. My dealer replaced the rear brakes & disks at about 57000 miles. I had taken a salesman from the dealer to get an appraisal & he told me that it sounded like a simple adjustment would fix it. 2005 Elantra
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So I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra, it is a manual transmission. I was having problems with the rpm's going higher than normal at random times while driving, then I noticed that the fluid in the clutch fluid reservoir was low. I determined that to be caused by a bad clutch slave cylinder that was leaking fluid. So I replaced the slave cylinder and that seemed to fix the problem, but now I am noticing that the car lacks power when I'm going up any sort of hill or trying to accelerate faster than normal.
When going up a hill the rpm's will go up and I have a hard time maintaining my speed. When trying to accelerate fast, as in pulling out in front of someone or similar situations, the car seems sluggish and it seems like I need to shift because the rpm's are high but I'm not going fast enough yet for the next gear.
This sounds like it would be some sort of problem-related to the clutch going bad or could the leaking slave cylinder have damaged the clutch. Or does this sound like more of a different problem, maybe something with a fuel filter or something?
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I own a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with the standard 4 banger. About 6 months ago I noticed coolant residue on the mid steam hose. I removed the radiator cap and I didn't have any coolant at the top. So I topped it up and found that the High side had pressure and the low side not so much. So I brought it in and the the Thermostat and hoses replaced. That should have solved it. 3 months later I opened the hood and noticed coolant on the Clutch actuator and the divots in the trany casing. So I took it in again.
The mech said it was a slit in the lower rose. making an air pocket. Ok so they drained the coolant and replaced the hose. Two weeks later same story. The high end gets hot the low end is leaking (dibbling) out the engine end of the low side hose. I brought it to another mech and they checked the flow (good) pressure tested the system and head gasket(good). In short, they found nothing wrong. Thermostat opens fine everything is good. Except...... I am still finding coolant dibble on the trany case. Its not a major leak - about half a pint per week- but its annoying as hell.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra that makes a RRrrrRRRrRRR noise when turning corners - only to the right. It's not a screeching or scraping noise... more of a loud whirring or humming. One note- back left tire was removed and repaired shortly before this began - could that relate?
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My daughters 2005 Hyundai Elantra has 77,000 miles om it. Just changed the wires and plugs, new brakes. Now, it runs very rough when stopped at a light and it is in gear. Now, when she has the AC running, and she stops at a stoplight, she has to put it in neutral or the engine will almost but not quite kill.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with approx 155,000 miles on it(I don't know if that matters). The car started ok at first. When I put it into reverse, I noticed that it was really hard to move the gear shift(which it's normally really easy). I put it back in park and let it sit for a minute thinking it just had to warm up a bit more.
When I tried it again, it was still hard to shift, but this time when it got into gear I heard a loud clunk. This scared me, so I put it back in park and turned off the car. Now it won't start. All of my lights(headlights, dashboard lights, radio) come on, but the engine won't turn over.
I don't know if any of the following is relevant but I'm putting it out here anyway just in case it is: The battery is only a year old(and since all my lights came on, I don't think it's dead)I had an oil change on Saturday. The belts were replaced a few months ago. My check engine light is on because of an O2 sensor.
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I am currently driving a 2005 Elantra (manual trans) with only 48k miles on it. Less than a year after buying the car new the clutch had to be replaced (around 10k miles) and now the second clutch is about to go as well. I do not ride the clutch or drive like a maniac so there is no reason to be on a second clutch at 48k, let alone a third one. Is there anything I can do besides putting a new clutch in to protect against this problem in the future? Also, would installing a stronger, high-performance clutch work?
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In less than 30,000 miles, I've replace the clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate three times. Dealer adjuster clutch at 12,500. First replacement at 15,000 miles. I do not ride the clutch
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My mother In law's a/c is not working. Last year I replaced the compressor, fcm, and pressure sensor and nothing. Well fast forward a year and I'm here again trying to sort it out. I unplugged the connector to the compressor and there is 2 black wires 1 wire has 6 volts (not 12v) and the others reads nothing. When I turn the A/C on the fans do come on.
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SYMPTOM : 04 Trailblazer had intermittent A/C clutch engagement with the A/C system fully charged (showed about 80lbs on low side with engine off)...
SOLUTION : Three wire plug that plugs into the A/C pump has a bad connection on middle pin. I chased the middle wire with a pick and pushed firmly, the A/C pump kicked in, and out when I released pressure.
Testing the Harnass side: with relay #44 crossed (pins 30 & 87), with vehicle on or off, and the plug attached, you should have 12V+ at dark green (middle wire), you should have a ground on the black or brown wire, and you should have approx. 5v+ on the Lt Green or yellow wire.
Testing the clutch side: (harnass unplugged)
Black to red 3.7 ohms.
Black to other red 3.7 ohms.
red to red .01 ohms (fully closed circuit)
- If red to red open circuit, you have a bad switch on the compressor body---replace compressor.
- If red to black open circuit, you have a failed electromagnet in your clutch, relace clutch.
- If compressor side tests good, and you are missing 5v+ on harnass side, you have a bad connection.
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