Hyundai - Elantra :: 2004 - Jerks When Driving Uphill / Accelerating
Apr 24, 2013
I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 130000+ mi on it. The current engine has 96000+ mi; the original was replaced because the previous owner allowed it to overheat, blew a gasket, and apparently warped the engine itself.
I have owned this car for about 6 weeks now. The car was driven roughly 160 mi from where it was purchased to my residence; no trouble on that trip. However, within the first few weeks of owning it, the car started making a squealing noise when I turned the steering wheel. I took the car to a mechanic and had the belts adjusted. This eliminated the squealing, but I was also told that the CV boot needed to be replaced (they asked if I had been hearing a clicking noise when turning, which I had but had thought nothing of), so I also had that repair done. Problem solved. Car seemed to be running fine.
Okay, on to the current problem. Something else I had started to notice, before I had the belts adjusted, was that it seemed to hesitate a little when going up hills, and sometimes when accelerating. It was a small thing, and I attributed it to my driving style (which probably isn't the best) and the fact that my area is very hilly and the car might be having a harder time with that. Well, this problem has gotten worse; I can definitely feel the car jerking, especially when accelerating (very noticeable when going uphill). The problem also seems to be worse at lower speeds, but I'm not entirely sure that I've nailed that down.
One thing I noticed is that it seemed to become much more noticeable after the last time I gassed up the car. It seems like it's getting worse as the fuel is used up, but that's probably just a consequence of using up fuel as I drive and I'm just looking for connections where there aren't any.
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My 2007 Hyundai Accent Automatic has been, what I'd call jerking, off and on when I go to accelerate, either when speeding up to merge on to the interstate/coming out of a turn/or being very slow to accelerate after a stop, like at a red light. About a month ago, it wouldn't start after I filled it up with gas and the check engine light finally came on, so I took it a mechanic. They kept it for a day, got it duplicate the not starting problem, and said it was the "fuel gauge." (looking this up on the internet leaves me questing, because nothing about the definition of a fuel gauge sounds like anything that would cause it to do what it was doing, but they told me that's what the computer alerted as the code for what was wrong.)
It was working fine now when I fill it up with gas, but occasionally still jerks upon accelerating. I haven't looked at the gear gauge to see if it's not changing gears, as I thought at first it might be something misfiring, but I had the spark plugs changed probably a year ago or less. Just based on a quick internet search, I think it might have something to do with the fuel pump. I'd describe the jerking as just that, the car physically jerks until either the gear changes, or it gets power or something, and then once it does it it doesn't accelerate quickly after being at a complete stop, and the engine seems to get louder and while it does move, it seems like when I push the gas petal it has a hard time getting going.
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,I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra (stick shift) with about 104k on it. Was running absolutely great till about a month ago when I noticed that it was beginning to accelerate quite slowly. If I pushed it and got the RPMs up really high it would still pick up, but still not great performance. Also after pushing it a little hard there was a faint burning or smoke smell. Note, once it is up to speed say 60 or 70 it has no trouble maintaining such speeds. It just takes a while getting up to them. And if I really need to step on it the RPMs sky rocket with no real immediate increase in speed.
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My wife has a 2002 Hyundai Elantra (5-speed manual) with about 185,000 miles on it, which has developed an issue within the last 2 months. The car acts like it is shut off for a split second - tachometer drops suddenly, check engine light flashes very briefly and you lurch a little bit as you lose power, but then after maybe a second, it is back to normal. This has happened while accelerating, cruising down the highway, and idling at a stop sign. The car hasn't actually killed while idling, but is close.
Had it in to a mechanic, and they checked for error codes but found none, and of course it didn't happen while the mechanic had it. On a recent 2 hour trip, it happened maybe 50 times? But hasn't happened for the last week. I should mention that we had the exhaust manifold/front catalytic converter replaced about 3 months ago, as well as a camshaft sensor (those had error codes before we changed them). We've done the recommended maintenance over the years, but are due for another plug/wire replacement (could this be the issue?).
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I drive 07'es350 and I have felt jerks while driving usually when accelerating or slowing down from speed. Did check with dealer before for transmission after analysis by technician he said it is perfect, recently read on internet and saw fuel filter can be an issue but when called the dealer he said filter is in gas tank and it is lifelong. Not sure what kind of diagnosis I should do to find the issue.
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My problem is gas cut on my Elantra 2001. Here is how it happened; Last week I filled up my tank with regular gasoline then added middle quality gas this time. I always use middle quality gas but once I made a mistake and filled with regular. Then my reliable elantra started stumble and cut gas few times in a day. What would be the problem?
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My Corolla seems to be dying on me. What could be wrong with it.
It burns oil (a lot: 1.5 liters on 380 km). Black/ blue? smoke from the exhaust.
Idles very low at times (800rpm) and a little high at other times (1300rpm?).
Jerks / stutters while driving (since valve cover gasket (I think that was the one) was changed, due to burning of oil)
Clicking sounds while accelerating.
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I have owned this car from new and it currently has 32k miles. The only fuel used has been 85 octane or occasionally a tank of 93 octane. There is a distinct hesitation when accelerating from speeds of 10 to 15 mph and I do not believe it is due to the transmission shifting. I did move to my current state,California, from Pennsylvania and was told by my local Hyundai dealer service department that because California has a different gasoline formulation from most other states as well as a summer and winter blend to reduce emissions it is recommended to run a bottle of injector cleaner every 15k miles.
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I have a 2008 Hyndai Elantra with an automatic transmission. Since the first week I have had my car when the fuel is low (under a half of tank) the car tends to hesitate like it wants to stall, or momentarily shifts into a higher gear than it needs to be for the situation; the rmp's get very low. As the tank drops further below half full, the problem gets progressively worse, especially while trying to accelerate hard; i.e. entering the highway, starting from a red light, etc (times requiring a lower gear). I have brought my car to the dealer for service three times also asking them about this problem. Each time they can not replicate the problem which seems ridiculous since it is difficult to not have the problem when the tank is low.
The day I purchased my car I was speaking with another Elantra customer who was waiting for her car in the service department. She had just purchased her vehicle as well and already had to bring it in for a fuel pump recall. I believe the recall states that the fuel pump fails and causes the car to stall, sounds very similar to what my car wants to do. I have asked about this recall on my vehicle and have been told that it does not affect my car.
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My 2007 Hyundai Elantra SE (Automatic, 69,400 miles) makes a grinding noise when I start to accelerate from 40 mph. I sometimes hear a noise that sounds like an airplane wheel being activated when I'm driving at lower speeds driving around town. Could this be the transmission? Who should I take the car to?
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I have a 2004; 4cyl Sonata, that jerks when I accelerate from a stop light or when I step on the gas, it jerks and sputters while passing another vehicle, then it gains speed?
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Truck is 08' with 5.4, 3.55 gears, auto trans. 84k miles. Recently purchased from the TSA fleet trucks, so I have no clue what PM procedures were done prior to me getting it.
I noticed the following: when I get the truck into OD and then slowly decelerate (meaning I let it coast and im not braking) to about 40mph then get on the gas (normal acceleration) the truck bucks hard almost like when your spinning wheels on snow or ice and put the truck in 4wd and the front rear locks. or a limited slip rear that catches when one wheel is spinning.
if I accelerate hard the truck pushes thru it and doesn't buck as bad. I have searched this out and there are several threads about it that describe just about exactly what im talking about, the following have been brought up as possible problems:
1) bad spark plug/s and or coil/s
this seems to be the most common answer to the possible problem.
2)broke valve spring
3) bad torque convertor
So at 84k miles im thinking replacing the spark plugs would be fine to do as a PM. So coils.............should I just go ahead and replace them as well? I found them (motorcraft). does that seem right?
As far as spark plugs, I have already read the horror stories on the 04-08's breaking the plug in the head. I have also read that before 10/07 was the trucks that had the issue. my build date is 02/08. am I good to go with normal removal of the plugs? the best method I have read for removing them is spray carb cleaner down the hole and let it soak overnight and then the next day drive the truck get it nice and hot and remove them right after you park it,,,,
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2002 Hyundai Elantra GT 2.0L 140k miles
Symptoms:
- Intermittent rough idle when hot, slight shutter, surges between 700-800rmp
- Intermittent hesitation when accelerating, cylinder 2 misfire when hot and under load
- Misfires in all gears under load, mostly when under 2000rpm
- Code P0302 when scanned, no other codes
- Symptoms appeared suddenly, not gradually over time
What's been changed:
- Replaced spark plugs, little or no improvement. Old plugs looked worn, but generally in good shape with no significant deposits.
- Cleared code and swapped injectors between cylinders 1 and 2, after test drive P0302 code came back, so it seems that the injectors are good. If the injector were bad I would have expected the misfire to change from cylinder 2 to cylinder 1.
Inspection and Testing:
- Ignition System Testing
- Spark plug wires and primary coil are within specification.
- Secondary coil resistance is high on both packs. Could this be causing a problem with just cylinder 2? Is it worth replacing?
Spark Plug Wires: Specification: 5.6 Kohm/meter +- 20%Cylinder 1: 2.49 Kohm (Longest)Cylinder 2: 2.03 KohmCylinder 3: 1.64 KohmCylinder 4:1.36 Kohm (Shortest)
Primary Coil: Specification : 0.58ohms +- 10%Actual: .6 and .6
Secondary Coil: Specification: 12.2 Kohms +- 15%
Actual (Cold): 16.03K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 15.94K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Actual (Hot): 18.54K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 18.44K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Air/Fuel System Testing:Fuel system seems to check out. I do not believe the problem is fuel related. There are no obvious cracks or leaks on the intake manifold. A good spray of Carb cleaner all around the manifold causes no change in idle. I might try propane later. No obvious vacuum leaks.
Fuel Injector: Specification: 13.1-14.5 ohms
Actual: Cyl 1: 14.9, Cyl 2: 15.3, Cyl 3: 15.3, Cyl 4: 15.7
Compression Testing:Compression is not great, but within specification. Could the slightly lower compression in Cylinders 2 and 3 indicate a head gasket leak between those cylinders? Could this cause a misfire in Cylinder 2?
Dry Compression: Specification: 145-218psi, <15psi between cylinders
Actual: Cyl 1: 165, Cyl 2: 155, Cyl 3: 155, Cyl 4: 160
Oil/Coolant/Tailpipe:
- Oil looks normal, not brown or milky
- Coolant looks normal and is full, no signs of leaking (coolant has not been changed in a very long time, could a coolant flush work?)
- Exhaust looks and smells normal from tailpipe.
Sticking valve? How would I check this? Bad sensor somewhere? Doesn't a bad sensor usually throw a code?
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I have a couple of questions. Been driving for about 4 weeks now. Just took it to Hagerstown, MD yesterday and noticed something odd when driving up the mountains. (We have lots of mountains to travel up and down out here in western MD) When I would get to 3k RPMs, I would notice something strange, kind of like a pulling or tugging. (Think of it like a circle with a line somewhere no hit. Every time you hit that line, there is a little vibration or tug, kind of like if you have a rock or something stuck in your tire and you hear a noise every time you hit that spot on the tire against the road).
However, it only occurred when going up the mountain at 3k RPMs. If it kicked up to 4k RPMs, it didn't happen. It I was below 3k RPMs, it didn't happen. Is it normal? Is it related to the Active ECO system? I didn't try running it uphill without cruise control on. Could it be because I had cruise control in use? Just wondering if this is normal. I was reading the manual and it did state that you would notice a difference when Active Eco was engaged when going uphill as the engine would be a little less powerful or less quick to gain power. Also, what is "sport mode"? The plus and minus signs to the right of D on the gear shift?
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i own a 2005 f150 supercrew fx4. Today as I was attempting to go out of town I was accelerating up hill and heard a noise, sounded like air coming through a window seal or scratching, which is not the problem. The noise only came on when i increased the acceleration, there is no power loss, the truck still accelerated properly and had good power, just that the noise came on. so i returned home only to hear the problem on flat land also, when pressing the gas to accelerate. The truck seems to idle fine and have no problem with low acceleration.
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The strangest thing happened to me on the way home yesterday from work. I was driving about 110 all the way home on a highway and took an exit to my local area when i noticed as i approached the ramp i wasn't able to shift into any gears. It just felt like there was something blocking me, like a wall of rubber or something. I stopped the car on the side of the road, unsure what was going on. While the car was on and my foot on the clutch, i am able to move into all gears perfectly fine but its when i start moving i cannot go into the others. Strange. I was able to force it into second gear from first but it sounded like two plates or discs sort of sliding around on each other..maybe that was my imagination but i stopped and didn't proceed further.
While i was sitting waiting for the tow truck, i remember that the last few months it has been getting harder and harder to get into gears while driving. I would be driving and would have some resistance to get into the pocket. This progressively got worse and i guess lead to this point where i am unable to get anywhere.
First thing i thought was the transmission, but i am able to go forward in first and reverse okay and the clutch pedal was not to the floor. The clutch was recently changed, approx 20k ago.
Could it be something easy to fix? Perhaps the clutch cable has stretched out and it is not pulling me far enough into the gears making it impossible to shift. Maybe the master or slave clutch cylinder have failed? I am not sure at all!
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I've taken my 2005 Hyundai Elantra (95K miles) to the dealer twice to be serviced because it is jerking while driving - mostly in low speeds, but sometimes even in fifth gear - and occasionally stalls while stopped. the jerking happens while driving, not when the clutch is engaged. The first time I took it to the dealer they said it was a loose battery cable. After about a week the problem started again.
I took the car again to the dealer and they did something like rearrange the ignition coils. It drove better on the test drive and for the past several weeks I have had no problems, but just today the same problem started again. It seems to happen more when the AC is on, but has happened when the AC is off. The dealer also told me the clutch is very worn and that we should have it replaced - I'm hesitant to spend the money replacing the clutch if it's not causing the jerking, i.e., if there is something else wrong with the car. Would a worn clutch cause these symptoms?
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So I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra, it is a manual transmission. I was having problems with the rpm's going higher than normal at random times while driving, then I noticed that the fluid in the clutch fluid reservoir was low. I determined that to be caused by a bad clutch slave cylinder that was leaking fluid. So I replaced the slave cylinder and that seemed to fix the problem, but now I am noticing that the car lacks power when I'm going up any sort of hill or trying to accelerate faster than normal.
When going up a hill the rpm's will go up and I have a hard time maintaining my speed. When trying to accelerate fast, as in pulling out in front of someone or similar situations, the car seems sluggish and it seems like I need to shift because the rpm's are high but I'm not going fast enough yet for the next gear.
This sounds like it would be some sort of problem-related to the clutch going bad or could the leaking slave cylinder have damaged the clutch. Or does this sound like more of a different problem, maybe something with a fuel filter or something?
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when car dies driving or idle- will not start for appx 30min after- cranks over immediately like it wants to, but will not actually start for about 30minutes... is this a sensor?
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When car dies driving or idle- will not start for appx 30min after - cranks over immediately like it wants to, but will not actually start for about 30minutes... is this a sensor?
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My 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with 78K miles has never had any major problems until a month ago. I was doing errands and after my second errand the car would not start. AAA came jumped it, and I took it to a local shop where they replaced the battery. They said the rest of the car seemed just fine. The next week, after gassing up, the car again would not start. It made the same sound, like the engine was trying to turn over or it wasn't accessing the fuel. A bystander thought perhaps it was the oxygen sensor.
After resting for about 10 minutes, the car started and I drove it to a Hyundai dealership. They said the fuel pump needed to be replaced. It seemed fine after the replacement. A week later, the same thing happened. The car would not start. Not after 10 minutes, not after 30. AAA again was called and after I told them about the fuel pump they thought perhaps the relay was bad. They swapped the relay with one I wasn't using and the car started.
I, again, brought the car to the dealer. They inspected the whole car. There were no codes when they hooked it up to the computer and it drove just fine. They simply replaced the relay. Last night, the car made a funny sound upon starting, almost like a hissing or light clunking. This morning the car started fine. I drove for about 5 minutes and then the car stopped accelerating and the power steering seemed off. The car then died and would not start. I was in the middle of an intersection.
After about 15 minutes the cops came and pushed my car while I was in neutral. A few minutes later the car still would not start and it was towed back to the dealer. The car has been with the dealer for over 3 hours. They have driven it, tested it, driven it, tested it while driving. Everything. And they can't replicate the problem.
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