2001 hyundai Elantra 97000 mi. perfect on Thurs. Engine light flicker, sulfur smell, rough running, low power on Friday
First thought / hope, Bad gas? Had Filled up on Weds.... I added dry gas and FI Cleaner.
Second thought / fear Cat. Converter
Third . .. . ???
I have a 2001 elantra 2.0 gls. It is running rough with low power and flashing engine light. It may have a bad 02 sensor but when checked for spark only the 2 and 3 cylinders were sparking. I can confirm this because when I unplugged the 1 and 4 spark plugs it made no difference in the way it was running. Next I tested the resistance on the coil packs. Both were an even 1.5 ohms. How can it be that the coil packs are good yet the plugs aren't firing? I also have moved plug wires around and have had no success.
View 8 RepliesMy daughters 2005 Hyundai Elantra has 77,000 miles om it. Just changed the wires and plugs, new brakes. Now, it runs very rough when stopped at a light and it is in gear. Now, when she has the AC running, and she stops at a stoplight, she has to put it in neutral or the engine will almost but not quite kill.
View 2 RepliesWhen firing up the engine cold it runs really rough, smells very rich all the time, even warmed up. No codes set, fuel trims are within 5-10%. I've replaced the front O2 sensor, swapped crank & cam sensors, Map sensor (have lots of spare parts) & I'm sure there was more things I've changed but can't remember. I have a snap on scanner and everything is within parameters.
I have not checked the EGR valve or solenoids yet. It's a 2006 Santa Fe 2.4l 5 speed, new timing belt & balance belt replaced when I dropped this engine in. Is there a common problem with these that I could begin looking for?
I own a 1996 Buick Regal with 132k miles on it, 3.1L six cylinder. The other day I was doing some general maintenance and noticed that the exhaust smelled like sulfur (rotten eggs). Now, I am loosely familiar with the causes of such a thing but not well enough to diagnose it properly the first time. The car has been idling rough since I got it (almost a year ago now), I have a feeling that it could be the O2 sensor causing the rough idle and the sulfur smell but I am not completely sure. I should have one of those fancy three-part injector cleaners done?
View 6 RepliesMy 2013 Elantra interior lights seem to slightly flicker when the engine is running. Is this normal? I've never noticed it before on my 2011.
View 5 RepliesMy 2003 F150, 5.4L has been having some rough idle/misfires issues both at idle and under load.
I have fixed one big vacuum leak, replaced the PCV valve, new sparkplugs, seafoam and heet in the gas, replaced fuel filter, tested the fuel injector resistance. Coolant levels have not changed. The truck burns about a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so. The white exhaust is heavier than condensation, but it comes and goes. The rough idling comes and goes as well, and it usually happens under load and the CEL flashes.
The codes I get are random cylinders, po303, po308, po171, po174 were the most recent but there have been other cylinders as well. I clear the codes after each attempt to fix it and they come back different.
I notice that there is a small exhaust leak that drips water just behind the engine, and when I shut down the truck a lot of water will pour out of an area just behind the cab on the passenger side as well as out of the bottom of the muffler (small hole, looks drilled).
Usually the rough idle occurs after filling up the tank, but from different stations so I do not think it would be watery gas. I use Heet every fill up as well. Also, there is a sulfur smell after the rough idling occurs (catalytic converter?).
My 2005 Elantra has no running lights, a/c won't come on, dash lights don't come on, and lights flicker on the dash when I have started the car and it has been on for a few minutes. Where I can look for a short or possible main fuse box in the engine? All the fuses in the interior box are fine. Headlights, wipers, and radio all work fine.
View 2 RepliesIn the last month, my car has had an awful time starting on 2 different occasions. The first time it ran really rough for about 1 minute then was ok. The second time was the same but the engine light came on. Took it to an out of town dealer and he said it showed a misfire code but could never find anything else and all looked OK. Spark plugs?
View 4 RepliesMy girl friends car is doing something interesting, well it started off the car died while she was driving home from work, so I towed it with my truck home, the alternator had went bad so i changed that, but no here is where the problem comes in that i cant figure out, the car will start and run for about 3 miles than it will die in and out, loose power but not kill the engine and the check engine light flashes, and now the radio does not work at all (at idle or running) and the head lights are dim.i tested the battery, it was with in ranges for cold starting, output while the car is on and a few other thing, i re checked my belts and they are all tight and in the correct alignment ...
View 9 RepliesI have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
View 8 RepliesI just purchased my first foreign car ever. it is a 2002 Elantra it idles very rough changed plugs using NGK and wires new fuel filter and ran 2 full tanks of high grade fuel with STP fuel injector cleaner. but had no effect on idle also have no check or service engine light. What to check next?
View 3 RepliesMy Elantra has been doing this for a while: While running (idle, driving slow, driving fast, doesn't matter) the car will lose power and will not respond to the throttle. It does this a few times in a row usually and then starts running normally. When running normally it runs perfectly fine, nice smooth low idle and good acceleration.
I started by doing a basic tune up: plugs, wires, oil change, air filter. No change. I then swapped the throttle position sensor. No change. You can see the symptom on youtube here: [URL] ....
What could be causing this?
I have been noticing this Rotten egg/sulfur exhaust smell I have been getting for the past 2 months. So far it only happens when the engine hits 3000rpm or higher.
View 9 RepliesFriend of mine has a 2001 Elantra, not sure of the mileage but it started running really rough, like it's on 3 cylinders. His mech wants to look at the head, thinks there's a broken spring or something.
I asked if the timing belts ever been changed, no it hasn't. My suggestion is it might have lost a few teeth from the belt and jumped. I can't see it being a broken valve spring or something worse because the beta engine are tough as nails.
He said the wires are fine, they probably need replacing too because my friend is the type of person who changes oil and that's it.
100k 2.0D .... Recently when pulling up at roundabouts or junctions either at low speed or quite rapidly, the engine oil light flickers. This doesn't happen at all on idle no matter how high it is revved and never while speeding up or at high speeds. I have tried to narrow the time it happens and just ended up being confusing because it can happen slowing down while in gear with engine under strain or to a lesser extent while coasting with g/box in neutral at idle speed.
The engine oil and filter has been changed but to no avail (as expected). I could check the oil pressure sender and wiring but it doesn't make sense as why the fault is not sporadic and quite consistent when it happens. (Also I did look at trying to remove the sender unit and possible fitment of a pressure gauge but how the *BEEP* do you get any tools to that!). I did mention it to a friend who knows a pair of mechanics at a local garage who both straight away went *ooooh sounds like big end bearings!!*
Well it finally happened, a couple of weeks ago I was headed to an MX race and my check engine light came on and it started running rough. Long story short a piece of an exhaust valve broke off and went out through the head. Dealer has been great even though I was 300 miles from home and they did get me a rental(small POS SUV). Truck was supposed to be finished this week, but now they are saying the head gasket is on back order and they probably won't have one until the middle of April......... I can't be without my truck that long, but not much I can do. By the way truck is completely stock with just under 20K on it, and I have never had any issues with any of my Ford trucks or Ford diesels, even my old 6.0.
View 7 RepliesCar Make/Model: 2001 Hyundai Elantra
So, in order to access the parking garage at work, free of charge, I MUST swipe my ID badge upon entering and exiting. That requires lowering my driver window (front left window) and extending my hand out. So, I pressed the switch downward to roll the window down, and I heard a small pop or click and all the sudden the switch was stuck in the downward position and my window would just roll all the way down. I would flick it upward, the window goes up, but then it retakes its downward position. I have to apply my window lock to keep it upward and sometimes I have to hold the switch up and immediately turn my car off to keep the window from rolling back down.
The window rolls up and down like it normally would. There is no slowness or delay.....the motion still seems pretty smooth.
Questions:
What are the possible problems and solutions?
How much to fix it, if I choose to?
Engine light shows" Airbag". Ram Auto did a diagnostic and error code did not show up. Ram tried to delete the code, could not. They suggested search re-calls since this is a hot topic in the news about Hyundai's problem with airbag opening without cause. Did a research and there are no re-call for the year 2003-there are re-call for the year 2004. If the airbag light stays on and there is cause for it to open, it will not.
View 19 RepliesIn March 2012, the EPS light came on in my Elantra and the power steering went out. At first, when I would restart the car, the light would go off for a time and the power steering would work, but soon it would revert to EPS light and no power steering. I took it to the dealer who ran a couple of updates and tightened a loose connection. All was well until January 2013, when the EPS light came on again and the power steering quit working. No amount of restarting, crossing fingers, or using bad language, would make the light go off and return the steering to normal. Back to the dealer I went. This time the verdict was bad.
Now, in July 2013, my battery (which I had replaced in January 2013) died. Seriously died. Not a sound, not a click. When the car was jump-started, imagine my surprise when the EPS light was out and the power steering worked. After a new battery was in place, the power steering continued to work just fine - so far. My question is this. Would a bad/low battery have anything to do with the EPS malfunctioning? Today, I took the car in for a recall fix and asked this question of the service manager. He said, of course not, but to keep my fingers crossed and hope that it continues to work. So, how can a steering column that needs to be replaced, suddenly begin to work at precisely the moment there is a full electrical charge available to the car? How can there not be a connection?
I have a Hyundai Elantra 2007 with 123,000 miles on it. Three weeks ago the engine About two weeks ago the engine light turned on. I took it into an auto parts store so they could use the digital code reader, it said the upstream O2 sensor needed to be replaced. I replace it and still have bad gas mileage, the second time I had it read with the code read it said both of the O2 sensors were bad so I replaced the downstream one week later. There was still bad gas mileage and the code reader still said it was both of the O2 sensors, the auto part's representative said when the engine light is on that the computer turns off the O2 sensors so he recommended to erase the codes on my car with the code reader (I pushed the button and he looked away). Still nothing changed so I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery to restart the computer. Still horrible gas mileage with no engine light anymore. Gas mileage averages about 15 mpgs in city and 32-35 on the highway. The highway seems about right but I've never seen any mpg below 30 for city mpg before this problem. I also cleaned the mass air flow sensor with mass air flow cleaner after dealing with the O2 sensor. All preventive maintenance is kept up by me and I have had no problems with this car before. Water pump replacement, timing belt replacement, and transmission flush have occurred in the last ~50,000 miles.
View 19 Replies