Hyundai - Elantra :: 1997 - Quits And Won't Start / Cranks But No Spark
May 28, 2013
I have a '97 Hyundai Elantra (That has been turned in to a Dirt Race Car) anyway the car will idol for an hour fine. When we take it on the track it will run 4 or 5 laps fine then we take it in the pits shut it off for an hour and then go back on the track and on the 2nd lap it will quit and will not start it will crank but their in no spark also the dash lights no longer work. After the cars sits for a couple hours it will start back up and idol fine. We have replaced the ECU/ECM relay as we thought that was the problem but the symptoms remain the same. We have checked fuses and don't seem to find a problem our next step is to replace the ECM....
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I have an 2012 Hyundai Elantra. I've been having an intermittent issue with startup. When I go to start the car it cranks and just when you'd expect it to start it just drops out. I'm not letting up off the key too early, this happens as I'm still turning the key. All the dash lights stay on. When I try it again it starts right up. I did mention it to the dealer last time it was in and they said they looked it up and discovered the cable to my starter was loose so they tightened it. Clearly that hasn't fixed the problem.
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I got a 05 Passat I am working on. The car was being drove and my customer when to eat lunch. Came out side and didn't start. Got it to my house threw it on the scanner and it brought up 2 cam sensor codes. Replaced them and still nothing. What to try next. The car cranks over fine and it does have fuel pressure and also has spark.
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My wife's 03 accent cranks over good, but won't start. It does fire some but won't start. I tried squirting starter fluid in the intake and that only made it fire less. Spark is strong on all four cylinders. At first I thought I found the problem because it had weak spark on the middle two cylinders and i replaced that coil pack and now all four are strong, but still same problem.
She drove it home and parked overnight, and in the morning it wouldn't start. I don't think it is the timing belt. I replaced it not too long ago, and I took a peak behind the top of the cover and all still appears to be as it should.
I am now at a bit of a loss. I mean it has good spark, won't start with starting fluid, so what could it be?
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This Geo Metro 3 cyl engine cranks with spark, but won't start. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel pump relay. The fuel pump does not make a noise. What could it be?
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What may have my son fried by reversing the polarity while jumping the battery in his 95 GMC pickup? The smaller wire coming off the + terminal was burned through,so I spliced that. The engine cranks but there is no spark.
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Replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotor button, distributor cap, and the ignition module. The coil tested good. The engine cranks, but will not start.
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working on a 84 ranger it did run fine for 3 wks then while driving there was a thump and it stopped and wouldn't start. Now working on it has spark cranks but won't start. while trying to start when I let off the key it tries to catch but only at that time not when the key is turn to start normal. we poured fuel into the carb and it still didn't start. Leaning toward compression maybe?
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.4 L. Front wheel drive. Cranks over won't start, replaced crankshaft sensor & camshaft sensor, no spark. Where do I go from here?
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Was driving normal and my 2004 r32 died. It felt just like it ran out of gas. Fuel pump was not making any noise. I replaced fuel pump relay and now i can here the fuel pump making noise. Pulled the fuel pump line off and fuel is coming out the line. So now i checked for spark and have none. I have 12 volts at the coils. I ohmed out the crank sensor and have .777 k ohms. I also checked codes with generic snap-on scanner and found no codes.
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Brought a 2006 f350 6.0 from the action and knowing it was damaged from the frame, i went ahead and brought a another f350 6.0 2005 from someone around town, the last owner is calming the truck was stole, and most of the engine was stole, and the windows where damage. ( I just wanted to buy the truck for the body so i can transfer the engine to this one! ) but instead of switching the engine, me and my dad went ahead and only put the missing parts back onto the engine....
I can tell the last owner wasn't telling the truth, and me and my dad where thinking the last owner made up his own story about the truck being stole !! I did a vin check and noting came up about having a bad history!!!!!!!!! I'm thinking something went bad in the truck, and the last owner did his own fault story... Anyways!!!
we finally put everything back in place, and the truck cranks, but does NOT start!! and also has no spark. sometimes it sounds like it does wanna start!! we check the fuel, and wires, oil, fuel filer! everything good, but the truck has no spark, and where not sure if thats the problem. and also switch out the Crank sensor. Still no luck!!
And also there is smoke when we crank. battery are good too, and even left the truck 28 hours on the wire to head up the engine!!
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Car died at idle on park. Tried to start it back up and was only getting crank. I took it to a local mech and he said my timing belt failed. I paid for the repair and the car still wouldn't start. The shop said the ecu went out. I replaced the cam position sensor and main relay under the dash. Still not getting it to start. I also have a ecu from an 05 accent, would this be plug and play? What else can I do?
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I was driving along, and my loyal Loyale quit firing. I can crank the ignition, but the plugs are not receiving any spark. There is fuel hitting the chambers. . . Since there wasn't any spark at the plugs, I tried the distributor and rotor area. The D&R are both very new, and looking good. There isn't any power reaching the distributor cap/rotor. . . So I turned to the coil. I had a friend test with a multimeter, and we determined that the coil was receiving electricity, but was not sending any. So at this point, I'm under the impression that the coil is bad. I ordered a new coil from the local parts store, and dropped it in. No change in the above scenarios. The new coil has "USE WITH ELECTRONIC IGNITION" printed on it. I don't know a lot about vehicles, but I thought that the Distributor/Rotor system was a Mechanical Ignition system. Was I given the incorrect part? Is the new one defective? Is there somewhere else that I need to be focusing attention? Oh, we also checked the fuses. They're good as well. Also, the Timing belt is not broken.
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My 1997 Hyundai Elantra's Auto transmission started slipping. I changed filter and fluid and found that 2 bolts had fallen from filter and the remaining 2 bolts were loose. It will not go in reverse and only drives without slipping much when Over Drive is turned OFF. Do you think Transmission is shot?
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Tucson with 31,000 miles, and my 5-year power train warranty will expire in mid-September 2011. Recently, and consistently, when I drive through a puddle my power steering suddenly quits, the battery light comes on, the brake light comes on, and my blood pressure rises a bit. After a few seconds, the power steering will come back on, or I'll pull over and re-start the car for the power steering to come on.
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I have a 2010 santa fe with 19k miles.....twice this week i was driving and suddenly the gas pedal stopped working and engine light came on. brakes worked. Have "Sudden Unintended Deceleration"??
After the first event, i had it towed to the dealer (following protocol in the manual). they reported a new recall (it had been serviced a few months ago), executed a computer update and all was fixed (or so i thought).
4 days later, with less than 100 miles driven since the repair, it happened again. this time i was in 35mph traffic so when the accelerator pedal no longer worked, i almost was rear-ended. i was able to coast out of traffic (brakes and steering fine)to a side street. i was able to coast home (.5 mile or so). car would accelerate after stop signs, although the gas pedal doesn't respond at all. very scary that it even shifted to a higher gear and would go 30mph and keep accelerating if i didn't brake!
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My eXcursion is showing the typical signs of a failing fuel pump. It cranks and fires on a few cylinders, then quits. I released the schrader valve on the fuel rail but very little pressure is released. From these indications, and after checking for a blown fuse, it appears the fuel pump is going. I say going because it did start after this happened, but would you trust it?
I ordered a new fuel pump, it's due in tomorrow. I remember seeing instructions on how to drop the tank but can't locate them with the search function. I'm also concerned with how to remove the pump from inside the tank. I know you have to spin off the big plastic ring, how do you get the pump off the bottom of the tank?
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I have an 01 Elantra GLS, automatic.
The initial problem started 3 months ago. The car would surge at highway speeds intermittently, but not throw any codes. It would only happen every couple of weeks.
First I replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. The car seemed ok at first, but eventually bucked while driving at hwy speeds.
Next I replaced the fuel regulator, which is located in the tank, if I am correct.
The problem continued. Next, I replaced the throttle position sensor. Again the car would run as normal, but soon enough it did the same thing. In addition, it also wouldn't always start on the first try. Pretty quickly it wouldn't start at all.
I was able to get it started and drive it home, however the car had no power and seemed like it would stall if i pressed an the accelerator too much.
I had to replace the starter next, and I also replaced both the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor.
I do believe the engine was flooded at some point. I was able to get it to start, but it still ran rough. I replaced the plugs twice. The first set I replaced looked pretty dark. I suspect it was because of all the cranking but no fire.
The last time I got it to start I did get a misfire code for cylinders 1&4, and it still runs rough and has no power. After shutting the engine off, I was unable to get it started again. That is when I put in the second set of plugs.
I have verified that the injectors are getting power at the same time as the plugs. I have ohmed out the primary and secondary sides of both coil packs and they are the same and within specs. I have also ohmed out the injectors and they are also all the same and within range. I have verified 12v power to the coil packs and injectors.
I have ohmed out the plug wires and they appear to be good. the resistance increases with the length of the wires. Is it possible that I have lost compression in cylinders 1&4 because of flooding the engine?
PS. The mileage is 155k
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