Hyundai - Accent :: Wheel / Gas Pedal Shake At 70 MPH With Pulsating Hum (varies With RPM)
Sep 11, 2015
2003 Hyundai Accent. I will try to give a good description of the issue. Wheel was shaking (or was noticeable) at about 60 mph. Lessened after that but still bad. I had my tires changed and balanced as well as an alignment. My rear right toe is still off a bit. Now, the shaking is noticeable at 68-70 mph and higher. Pedal shakes, wheel shakes. I can feel some vibration all over including the seat, gas pedal and wheel the most. Wheel not jerking, just vibrating mildly.
It is not quite as bad as before and does not happen until 68-70, 10 mph higher than before the tire change/balance. I have put my back wheels on the front and it is the exact same condition - this would remove tire and balance as the culprit (?). I also hear an audible hum.. kind of a pulsing sound at 50 mph+. This speeds up and slows down with my speed. For instance if I am going 70.. I hear it every half second, 50 mph I hear it less often. It is pretty faint, not a thump. It seems to be coming from the front but I can't pin-point it. I feel no tire play up/down/side/side.
What is the next step here? I'm going to get the rear toe fixed but this shouldn't be the cause of the pulse/wheel + pedal vibration. Vibration/sound doesn't happen when I am braking. No rubbing shield behind rotor.
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I'm getting this checked today most likely as it's been happening for months now. No issues with vibration and stopping is fine. As a matter of fact brakes are excellent. However when I'm stopped at a light or whatnot and I depress the brake pedal there's a pulsation that occurs almost every time. It's fairly constant and only happens when I'm at a stop not when I'm stopping so I know it's not a warped rotor. What it might be?
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I own a 2000 Hyundai Accent with 85,000 miles on it. I recently took my car into a local shop because the pressure on my brake pedal was extremely low. I was almost pushing it to the floor. On my first trip to the shop, they replaced the rear wheel cylinders because they were leaking. This replacement didn't fix my problem.
On the second trip to the shop, they replaced my master cylinder. I did call around to other shops to do a price comparison and the price was reasonable on both jobs. This work was done about two weeks ago.
At first, this seemed to fix my problem, the pressure was perfect. Since then I've been having an intermittent problem with the brake pedal pressure changing. It would get a little hard during driving, but would correct itself after a few moments. I don't drive that often or very far, so I was waiting to see if the problem would get worse.
Last night it did. I went out and when I tried to drive my car home my pedal was extremely hard. I could barely push it. While I was driving my car home (I was close to home), it felt like I was driving with my brakes on. My car would stop as soon as I took my foot off the gas pedal, I could not coast. When I got out, I could feel heat coming from the front tires, which I didn't even have work done on. There was also a smell that I've never smelled before. It almost smelled like something burning.
I was told I should have my car towed back to the shop on a lifted bed and not rolled there and that they should fix my car at no charge because they did something wrong.
My ultimate question is did the shop do something wrong and should I take it back to them if they did? Should they be responsible for this new repair? I don't want to go demanding anything if it's possible this is a whole new problem and not their fault. Even though it does seem like an awfully big coincidence. My next question is: what could be possibly wrong with my car? I would like to know what I'm getting myself into.
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Using mobile phone, Wife has an '06 Tucson. Noise like brakes squealing, but it occurs when you're NOT pressing the pedal.
The noise gets louder as the car goes faster, but the pitch of the squeal doesn't go up.
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My wife has a 2004 Hyundai Accent. This morning when she tried to leave for work only one wheel spun, the other dragged behind. What's going on? Brakes, CV joint, transmission?
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My car is standard 5 speed transmission, when my car is running my idle varys between 800ish to 1500 intermittently within seconds and if I don't drive it after starting the car it will stall on me (in neutral) after the rpms go up and down about 9 times.
The thing I found is if I disconnect my idle air control valve attached to my throttle body it stops the jumps in rpm. I have tried replacing the valve with one of my friends control valve Hyundai accent 2004 that works and fits perfectly on his doesn't work on mine. Right now I have my idle air control valve disconnected at the moment but i want to fix this issue because my rpms are at 1300 at idle.
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When braking i would feel the pedal pulsating...figured the pads were finished. Checked them out and they were not in that great a shape so I changed them all around. I'm still getting a pulsating feeling in the brake pedal.... I just need to bleed them or are the discs warn or warped or something?
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Having ABS issue with my 2004 Ford Escape XLT.
A bit of background information: every now and then (usually when decelerating from around 35-40mph), I will get a pulsating/knocking feeling from my brake pedal. At first, I thought it was the ABS, as I was told about a year ago that the ABS tone ring was broken. The more the problem manifested itself, the more I got to study it a bit. The pulsating/knocking in the pedal is usually accompanied by a very dry rubbing sound, and both the sound and the pulsating seem to be in direct relation to the motion of the wheels. I took it to the local garage this weekend and they recommended changing out the rear brakes - this made sense to me, as they haven't been changed out for as long as I have had the car.
Got the car back about an hour ago - on my way home, the pulsating came back when I was coasting into a stop light. The pulsating seems to have no affect whatsoever on the stopping distance of the car - a few times when it has happened, I have mashed the pedal, and the car comes to a quick stop just as you would want it to. After coming out of a complete stop, the brakes will work completely fine for a while - there seems to be no real rhyme or reason to what makes it happen.
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Test drove an 08 V10 today. Brakes seemed to work fine and didn't lock up but I felt no pulsating in the pedal and heard no chirping of the tires like most ABS systems do. Is this normal? Anything special to look for in used late model V10s?
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Ok, I changed my front brake pads and rotors last week and since then everytime I get in the truck and drive for about the first 2 or 3 miles when I push the brake pedal it feels like my ABS sytem is activating. Then it stops and the ABS light comes on but the brake pedal stops pulsating when depressed. Is my ABS going bad or did I possibly do something wrong? I have changed the rotors and pads before without problems....
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I started noticing that the brakes would pulsate, or grab momentarily when almost stopped. I figured that the rotors might be warped, and as I was planning on putting on new green stuff pads and rotors I was waiting for a convenient time to change them.
Now I have noticed some type of fluid, I'm guessing grease, on the side of one spoke of one of the wheels. I recently replaced the steel wheels with SE 16" wheels. I didn't see any leaks then but I guess I wasn't looking like I should have been.
I'm trying to decide what I should be looking for. CV boot leak? Front wheel bearing seal? Brake fluid?
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So I had all of my belts changed including timing belt and tensioner pulley as well as an oil change. After, I noticed a weird pulsating grinding/wining noise coming from the engine bay. It only can be heard once the car is warmed up. (It is much louder in real life.).
Car Noise - YouTube
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I have a bad wheel bearing but on the highway my steering wheel shakes. It is only on the highway not down residential streets. I'm pretty sure it is the driver's side wheel bearing. I already balanced my wheels and everything.
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I have a 2007 Acura TSX with 117k miles. We had the rotors and pads replaced in July of 2014 at Midas (won't go back there again!). Anyway, we are getting a pulsating in the steering wheel (shaking) when braking at times. Sometimes it is much more noticeable than others. This started shortly after having the pads/rotors installed. I took it back to Midas, and of course they couldn't duplicate the issue.
So, here's my question, can we continue to drive the car until it needs new pads (then I'll change the pads and rotors)? I know that the steering vibration can be annoying at times (it's not AWFUL, but you can tell that they're warped). I really hate to have to replace both right now as money is pretty tight with buying a house.
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My car is fairly new with 21700 miles approximately. It started to give me a little shake at the brake pedal. I drove to Victorville,CA last night and the shake was strong enough for my passenger to feel! Toyota said its a bad rotor and I have to take care of that because warranty will NOT cover that!
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I've been chasing this for longer then i can remember. At 40-45mph the rear end feels like its bouncing. no movement from the steering wheel, just a pulsating bounce. Little information about the truck: Has had Napa Gold shocks, Bilstein 5100s and currently Monroe reflex shocks. Installed readylift 4inch rear block kit about 2 years ago. Had 16x9 rims, currently has factory 16x6.5. Tires are 285/75s. New pads rotors and calipers. It's just driving me nuts to have it bounce all the time.
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Friday night my car is fine. Sunday, after some wintry weather, I start the car and it shakes and stalls out. I start it again and notice the check engine light and the ESC light is on and the car doesn't respond to the gas pedal. No response to hitting the ESC light. Runs rough like it was 25 years old. I limp around the block and decide not to drive it. I hope it's a really simple inexpensive computer chip replacement....
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So, just bought new se and the engine seems to shake randomly. It's most noticeable while standing. When I say shake, sometimes it feels like the rpms drop to not quite but almost seem to stall. The rpms don't actually drop the needle is steady as can be.
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I know there has been much talk about steering wheel shake between 70-80mph. I have the shakes at 70mph. But, I'm wondering why my service department (Boucher VW in WI) can't drive my car up to 70mph so they can feel the shake. The service manager said they absolutely cannot go over 65mph. So ofcourse they can't verify the shake and in turn won't balance my new front tires properly (VW replacements). Am I losing my mind here -- I can't have a car that doesn't shake at highway speeds? How to get them properly balanced through VW service?
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I recently bought a set of 18" wheels from a 2012 Scion tc which from my research has a hub bore size of 6.0, my Camry from research has a 6.1 sized bore. My issue is that the Scion wheels fit great except that I now have a serious wheel shake from 60 mph and up. I have had the wheels balanced twice already but it seems that the issue is the difference in the bore size and the wheels won't sit perfectly on the Camry. I did not have the shake issue with the stock 17"s and my alignment was great prior to the change as well.
09 Camry SE stock was 215/55 -17x7
12 Scion tc wheels with 225/45 -18x7.5
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Recently my car, after I put fuel into my car, my car won't start unless I apply the gas and then shift it into gear. I thought that perhaps replacing my spark plugs would fix this problem since it is about time for a tune up on my 2010 Hyundai Accent. About a week after changing the spark plugs I now have an error code that states that Cylinder 2 and 4 are misfiring and it is causing my car to shake while it is idling or speeding up. Also it is much slower than before to get it started from a stopped position.
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