Hyundai - Accent :: Squealing Fan Belt At Start Up
May 31, 2011
I thought it was the power steering pump & replaced it and still get the noise. A friend did squirt belt dressing on the belt while running and the sound disappeared for a short period of time, so now my guess is its the belt which is not loose, I went and loosened the four bolts on the power steering pump trying to move it thinking there was a crooked connection between the two pulleys maybe, but no. I start up my car and get a squeal that wiould wake the dead for a minute or two, then all is fine driving. If I drive to the store shut it off for 10 minutes usually starts w/ no noise, looks like I made a charitable donation on the new pump,...also the the power steering fluid is correct
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There is this incessant squealing and grinding coming from my brakes. I have taken my 2010 Hyundai Accent to FOUR different mechanics and none of them have been able to figure out what is wrong with my brakes. I have replaced all of them and each mechanic has cleaned and adjusted them. But THREE days after, every time without fail, it is back as bad as it was before. It is only the rear right brake drum that is doing it still and I have no clue what to do. Something is definitely wrong with this car.
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New to the hyundai world. My belt is squealing under low rpm load. I want to change it out but I don't see how to? I am mechanical I just don't see a tensioner. How would i go about changing it?
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Since the weather got colder I've been getting really loud, squealing belt noises. They happen mostly when I turn on the car. They sound like when I had an old Altima and turned on the A/C the belt would squeal. But the sound happens even with no air turned on or defogger turned on. And it happens sometimes when I make a really sharp turn around when I first start the car. After it's warmed up I generally don't hear it. Also, sometimes having my foot on the brake will change how long the sound lasts for. I'd like to know what belt this would be and if just WD-40 should be used for now (or some type of belt dressing) OR if it's detrimental not to get work done on it. Also let me know if I'm able to tighten it myself or if that's better left. I replaced a valve cover gasket a few months ago so that's about the extent of my abilities at this point.
It's a 2003 Hyundai Accent Automatic...
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Vehicle is an 08 Hyundai Accent 1.6L three door (hatchback) with 20,197 miles. This car was born on Oct. 16, 2007 and purchased in April of 2008. I told the owner to call the dealer and find out about when they should replace the timing belt as I had looked it up at the Gates site and found that it is an interference motor and also these Hyundai have some kind of lengthy warranty. When the tech or whoever she spoke to at the dealership asked about the mileage, they told her that she does not need to worry about the belt for about another five years, were rude and sounded inconvenienced by her calling. This leaves her with a bad taste in her mouth and more importantly, mis-informed.
I get the "Maintenance Log" out of the glove box and upon trying to decipher the timing belt interval, it states that the first course of action is an "inspection" at 30,000 miles or 24 months. How is a timing belt inspected? From what I have seen, a belt can look perfect today and snap tomorrow. But anyway, the next entry for severe service is replacement at 37,500 miles or 30 months which means this belt should have been replaced in October of 2010. Next entry is normal change at 60,000 miles or 48 months which puts us at April of 2012. After this it goes to 75,000 miles or 60 months.
I have already picked up the kit for changing the belt, tensioner, idler, and the two seals. How critical is it to change the spring as that was not included in the kit I got? I'm planning to do this job here in the next couple days as from what I can figure from the above log, It's way over due. I was reading some Hyundai forums and one stated that the 2011 model with the exact same engine calls for the first replacement due at 90,000 miles. How's this possible? Seems like these people (engineers) don't have all their stuff in one bag...
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I have a mkiv and before I got to work in the morning, I warm up my car for about 10 min. When I start it up the belt squeals. I do believe that it only does it in the morning. Should I have it checked out? i put belt dressing on it last night but it squealed when i started it up this morning so I don't think that worked......
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I installed a new Goodyear alternator belt on our 07 Yaris couple months back and it started squealing after the first day and only during a cold start. My past experience has taught me that it's normally due to a loose belt (when belt is new) so I tightened it just a bit. After 3 days it started squealing again. I've increased the tension on the belt three times now and the squealing has not gone away. It's only on cold starts and only for about 1 minute. If memory serves me right there is no tensioner for the alternator belt. It would appear that it doesn't matter how tight the belt is, it still squeals on cold starts.
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I have a 2014 2.0T and have noticed that my car is making a noise that sounds like a belt squealing. I thought the sound was being produced by the brakes. I only notice when I drive the car from a cold start.
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I just bought a used 93 accord. The engine is in good shape and runs smoothly most of the time, but I have two issues.
First, when I start the engine cold, there is a very loud belt squealing for about 3 or 4 seconds. Is this a common problem and, if I isolate the belt at fault, what should I do about it?
Second, the engine revs (both audibly and on the tach) when I press on the brakes. I've been told by a friend it might be a vacuum leak?
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I have a 2012 Accent with about 83,000km. Back in the summer, I'd noticed an issue with it squealing when I first started driving it after it had been sat overnight or any extended period of time. After 3 trips to the dealership, they finally determined it was the serpentine belt and replaced it which did work. However, now a couple months since that, the noice is back and worse than ever. This is how every morning starts with the car now:
Reverse off the drive, press on breaks and hear a groan as I do so but no squeal. Adjust to 'drive' and accelerate and instantly hear a very high pitched squealing which continues until either a minute or so into driving or I drive faster than 50km/h, whichever comes first.
The level of noise it's making now is becoming unbearable. It's embarrassing and I'm worried something is seriously wrong. Just my luck too, the warranty ran out on the 18th of this month. I could probably catch a recording of the noise if needed.
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Recently I've noticed more that when we first start the hyundai in the morning or after sitting a while and we use the brakes it grinds/ squeals a little and then doesn't after about 2 or 3 miles. Is this something to get checked out or should I spray something on my brakes to lubricate?
My next step that I though of was to get a simple automatic car wash cause it's been a bad winter in Rhode Island and the street shave been flooded with rock salt. I figure that might cause some friction under the pads.
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After a long drive in Arizona heat, my Hyundai Accent won't restart after refueling! Never happened until last Sat., then Fri., then Sunday. Ck eng light, so Mechanic ck'd it, but no codes...Car is '07 with 125K
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I have a mysterious problem with my Accent (2008). It starts perfectly on cold mornings after an overnight sleep but has difficulties on starting after I drive for half an hour or more, stopping and turning off the engine and then trying to start again after a few minutes stop. The starter would sound then stuttering as fighting against a very heavy load, like an electric shaver with a bad battery. Sometimes it won't spin and I have to wait several nerve wracking minutes or more to be able to start the engine. The car was checked in a certified garage. The electricity is very good and they also replaced the cam sensor with a new one. The car drives better on heavy load etc., but no change on the actual hot-starting problem.
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My 2000 Hyundai Accent has no power to anything. I checked the battery and it is good. I cleaned the terminals
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I have a 2005 Hyndai Accent. When it started getting really cold the car began to have issues starting. I turn the key and it tries to start. The battery is fine. I thought it might be something in the fuel line so I had the car towed to the local garage and they said they put the car in the garage and it fired right up. After that the car was fine for a couple weeks. Superbown Sunday after the game I went to get it in and it would not start. On a hunch I went got a bottle of heat put it in and it started right up. It was fine until I refilled the tank then it refused to start so I put more heat in it and it started. I did this once more and it worked. One night after work it wouldn't start so I put heat in it and it would not start. I messed with it for about 2 hours finally I was able to push it down a hill pop the clutch and it started. I took it back to the shop it was in there for 3 days and they were unable to reproduce the problem. Since then every time it is cold it refuses to start I have to push start it every time. Luckily this is still working. I am fed up I dont know what to do with it. Every time I take it to the shop and they cant reproduce the problem it costs me money and I am sick of it.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent. In the past 2 weeks, immediately after pumping gas into my car, when I start my car, its difficult to start my car and keep it running. For at least 3-4 minutes after putting gas into my tank, I have to keep my foot on the gas pedal to keep my car running. Sometimes, it will shut off. Then, after a few minutes, all is good and I can drive the car without an issue. What's going on?
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The problem I am having is when the engine is cold it will not start. I can push start it and it will fire. Once I have drove it and the engine temp has gotten up I can shut it off and leave it for a couple of hours come back and it fires right up. If I leave it for 3 or 4 hours and come back the car will not start I have to push start it again. If I spray a little starter fluid in it it will try to fire but will not start except on 2 occasions where the starter fluid started the car.
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I've got a 2009 Hyundai Accent, 28k miles on it, and was working fine until today. When I turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but the engine doesn't turn at all. My battery seems to be fully charged. I checked my ignition fuses and everything seems fine. Is there anything else I could try? I'm still under warranty, but it's such a hassle dealing with those dealership types.
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I just finished replacing my timing belt, water pump and all belts. I made sure to double check the timing marks lined up via this pic:
Timing belt diagram
I put everything back together and no go. I am not sure what to do now. Should the crank sprocket pulley be in a special starting position? I see is has a "1" engraved on it.
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Car died at idle on park. Tried to start it back up and was only getting crank. I took it to a local mech and he said my timing belt failed. I paid for the repair and the car still wouldn't start. The shop said the ecu went out. I replaced the cam position sensor and main relay under the dash. Still not getting it to start. I also have a ecu from an 05 accent, would this be plug and play? What else can I do?
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I recently had a problem with my car stalling when warm and not starting at all until cooler. This was the crank position sensor.
Now the car will not start without starting fluid. When starting fluid is used, the car will start and then run fine. Once you shut it off then try to start it, same thing. The fuel pump turns on when key is in on position. Holding pedal down to try and clear flood does nothing. Car just cranks and cranks but doesn't start until starting fluid is used.
So there is either not quite enough pressure at fuel rail, pump is not getting enough draw from battery, several other things could be suspect. Car is a 2003 Hyundai Accent. Battery tested borderline ok. It does the same thing with donor battery attached. I have a fuel gage but need an adaptor for it that I don't currently have to fit on this fuel rail. Stumped because the car runs beautifully once starting fluid gets it going.
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