If you drive less than 6000 or maybe even less than 3000 miles a year, how often should one change the oil on the car? Or don't bother with time interval but mileage as recommended for the make and model? I'm not sure there's a recommendation for time on the make & model, I'll check sometime.
Car in question is a Hyundai Accent 2009
My mother-in-law just bought a 2009 Tiguan, and she's just over 5k miles. I looked in the owner's manual, and in booklet 1.1, page 37, it looks like service is every 5k miles, just like on my A4 and my wife's Passat. However, the dealer is telling me that VW recommends 10k service on the Tiguan. What am I missing? Is the dealer wrong? Am I misunderstanding the Owner's Manual?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2009 Hyundai Accent which pops out of gear when I am driving in 4th or 5th. This started 2 months ago, in 4th, but happened in 5th while on a trip from Maryland to Michigan July 30. I took it to the 1st Hyundai dealership and a sales rep drove it and confirmed the problem but said it was safe to drive if I kept my hand on the gear shift and held it in gear. After a while of driving I could not even hold it in 5th, and I drove all the way from Ann Arbor to Baltimore with it in 4th, my hand holding it in gear all the way.
I drove immediately to the dealership where I bought it, and the "mechanic" did not experience the pop out. On the way home from the dealership, it popped out 3 times in a 12 mile trip. I took it to another dealership, same result. I am not comfortable driving this car, especially since I have to keep one hand on the wheel and one hand on the gear shift knob if I am in 4th or 5th. The car is still under warranty.
I have a 2013 Corolla with full synthetic (0W-20). The dealer states this type of oil is only changed every 10k miles. I'm used to changing my oil every 3500-5000 mi. I'm not too keen on their recommendations but $70 for an oil change outside of the Toyota Care package is a little steep.
View 14 Repliesok I have a 07 civic which I bought used, It of course has the indicator which says when service etc is due, my main concern is the oil life indicator, I have had the car 8 months changed the oil when it was due, I put 6100 miles on it, is this ok? I had an 02 civic which i bought new and change the oil every 3 to 4 k, I know the experts say you can go longer now, I do mixed driving city.
View 6 RepliesHave a Hyundai accent 2000 manual. The vehicle inconsistently stalls while driving. One day it will drive all day without stopping. The next it will stall while driving 10 or more times.
I`ll pull over, turn ignition off. Turn the key 1-2 times. It starts. Drive sometimes 5-10 minutes will stall again, sometimes will stall an hour later. Some days not at all.
What I should be checking and how to go about it. Have the car booked in to get it put on the computer, but would rather do it myself especially if its just a sensor that needs replacing.
I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent with about 90,000 miles. I bought it with 30,000 from a dealership that had been using it as their "loaner" car. Don't know if the brakes were new when I got it, but let's assume they were.
The brakes have been squeaking since Day 1, especially when first driving. In the first few years of ownership I took the car to several different mechanics, convinced my brakes needed replacing. Was told that no, I had tons of life left on them and the rotors were in good shape. Each time they'd clean the dust off them and I'd be squeak-free for a day or two. After a few years of ownership, when it rained and I'd start driving my brakes would be SO loud and an almost-grinding noise could be heard. Not only that, but sometimes after a rainy night when I first braked, the car would almost lurch when making a stop. I honestly thought I had been lightly rear-ended the first few times it happened. Asked multiple mechanics to check the brakes and was told everything looked fine.
Now, I've put nearly 60,000 miles on this car. I still haven't replaced the brakes because each time I bring it somewhere to do so I get told I don't need it. I can't believe that brakes with 60,000 miles on them have any life left, but multiple mechanics say otherwise. The most recent mechanic attributed the lurching to moisture in the ABS. Seriously, what could be going on here?
I'm about to tell my mechanic to replace both my brakes/rotors next week no matter what, but it would be nice to know possible causes to my issue. I drive my toddler around daily and I just don't trust my brakes. One brake failure will be one too many. On a side note, this, coupled with low MPH, no power, and a transmission I feel is slowly on a death spiral.
My 2006 hyundai accent makes a humming noise while driving. it gets louder the faster i accelerate. I have checked the wheel bearing but they appear to be fine. i jacked the car up and tested the wheel by pulling and pushing back and forth at the 12 o' clock position and etc. no give in either wheel. i also held the spring and spun both wheels with no vibration. I also rotated tires back to front. when i did this noise seemed to be lower.But still there. I did hit a fallen sign on the highway going 70 mph. I am wondering if this may have damaged my tires or if it still could be wheel bearing. and there is no vibration in steering wheel or while driving. just annoying humming.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Accent with 8800 miles on it. The battery warning kept coming on while I was driving, took it to Hyundai dealership and they said the alternator had an issue and they replaced it. The day I brought the car back from the dealership the warning popped up again, took it back to them and they kept my car for a week and finally told me there was an issue with ground.Its been a month and I finally thought it was resolved until 2 days back it popped up again. I don't know if it makes any sense but the warning showed when I turned on the heater and the rear defroster on. Once the warning light came on, now even if the rear defroster is not on my battery warning light comes on. It doesn't show up every time I start the car but frequently. Sometimes when the warning light is on the rear defroster does not work. What could it be?
View 2 Replies2008 Hyundai Account 4door78,721 Miles. I've only had it for a year. Taken it to dealership they performed diagnostic test, no codes. When its cold my car shuts off while driving and is difficult to remain on after starting it. When temperature is about 70 degrees car runs fine. I have tried new battery...didn't work. I have replaced spark plugs.....didn't work.
View 11 RepliesThis is my first Lexus and first new car in a long time. I have a 2015 3IS RWD and looking through the Services Guide I don't see any service interval for replacing the rear diff fluid or the trans fluid. All the manual says is under "inspect the following" check diff fluid level and check trans for leaks--and that the trans is a closed unit with no dip stick.
As far as my automotive knowledge goes, all transmissions are closed and yet many in the past have had dip sticks. Also, I've never heard of just topping off diff fluid if you're low. And both definitely have had service intervals! I change the diff fluid in my S2000 every 15K miles.
I find it hard to believe that the Diff and Trans fluid doesn't EVER need to be replaced.What are the service intervals for these two and the fluid weights?
If I switch to synthetic will I be able to stretch out my changes? Currently do it @ 5k miles with rotella triple, was thinking about trying T6 and extending changes to 8k miles
View 14 RepliesI have a 2009 Hyundai Accent. My battery light and seatbelt light comes on when I'm driving at low speeds (below 20mph) and my A/C is on. FYI my A/C is an after-market unit. Do you think my A/C could have been connected incorrectly and is draining my battery?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Accent with about 120,000 miles on it. Last summer, it started jerking badly from park to 1st and 1st to 2nd for the first five or ten minutes that I drove it. It stopped during the winter (Texas winter, so a mild fall in most places with seasons), the check engine light never came on, and the transmission fluid was fine (both color and volume), so I didn't get it checked out. Now that it's summer again, the jerking has started back up. I've also noticed in the last few weeks weak acceleration after stopping (again, usually only in the first ten minutes or so of driving). And today my check engine light came on.
I've checked the fuses, and I just got my oil changed (they said the check engine light was giving them a transmission code, but didn't elaborate). I have a leaking valve cover gasket and cracked belts that I'll be repairing ASAP. Is it possible that either of those are causing this problem?
Since I'm a single young woman, I don't want to go into a shop without being fully informed (I can't tell you how many times I've been ripped off). My research suggested a couple things:1. It might be the coil packs.2. I might need a new transmission.
Does the 2014 es300h have a timing belt that requires changing at specific intervals? The dealer told me he thought they are using a timing chain hence no scheduled maintenance.
View 6 RepliesI have an accent 2006 GS Sedan. I bought this as used recently. Noticed that the lights are not powerful at nights. When I turn on the lights there is no changes in the power of the driving / low beam lights.
Whether this is the standard with accent 2006. Other vehicles I have with me changes the power of the light and in this case there is no changes at all. I bought extra powerful bulbs and put them and there was a slight change, but there is no change between the driving lights and the low beam.
I have a 2009 prius with 85k miles on it, bought it two weeks ago, right off the bat I noticed that the left headlight, while driving, will frequently go out. It comes back on when I turn the headlights off and on again, and goes out again later. Sometimes it stays on, other times it goes right out. I took the headlamp off, disconnected all wires, and cleaned it of any corrosion that was found and reconnected it, and the light still went out. What would be causing this/ what a fix is non mechanic oriented?
View 2 RepliesI just bought a 2001 elantra. The car frequently will jerk or stutter while driving like the gas is bad or it is starved for something. When the stutter problem happens while driving the check engine light flashes but does not stay on. It usually only stutter 1 time but has as much as 3. The other day when I was in a drive thru waiting to order the car kinda sputtered during an idle then shut off the check engine light did not flash at this time. It restarted fine after that.
I pulled the codes and read them and I have 2. I am not sure if they are related to this problem. They were U0D00 and P0705. For the P0705 I cleaned the terminal but did not pull the negative on the battery the reset the computer. I reset the codes and the problem still is happening but no new codes are present. The code P0705 has not returned since.
My Santa Fe 2004 V6 2.7L 97K recently downshifts and revs up while I'm driving. It happened about a week ago once or twice. I thought I was stepping on the gas too aggressively. But last 2-3 days it came back and more frequently to a point that I'm afraid to take it to the highway.
I checked the transmission oil, it looks pink and full. What problem am I potentially looking at? Would it be cheap to fix? Do Hyundai dealers cover it under the 10-year/100K mile warranty thing?
I have a 1991 Chevy Lumina and I believe this wire is the root of my problems. I
wasn't the one who unplugged it but it seems it was unplugged as an easy way to get around a problem. When unplugged the car runs but the performance is off, It doesn't feel like it has the same power as it does when it's plugged in and it also sounds different when in idle. When the wire is plugged in the car stalls while driving at random intervals between 1 and 10 minutes and needs to be jumped to start it back up. I will attach pictures of the wire and its location within the surrounding area.
06 Elantra Limited, 96,xxx miles. When I'm idling at a light or something, the Rpms drop for a split second, almost to the point of stalling, but recovers. Happens in a split second. Does the same thing even when driving, but does it more frequently when idling. It even does that when I first put my foot on the throttle to accelerate from a red light.
I've cleaned the throttle body but it still does it. I've taken it to 3auto parts stores. One said that battery was bad. The other said the battery is fine but alternator is producing low. The last said both are fine.