The Accent is a 2004 and it belonged to my parents. It is a 5 speed manual trans. and has about 100K. It runs fine except when stopped and idling it stalls. It starts right up again, but stalls every time it idles. My dad said it was something inexpensive to fix, however he could not remember what the part was.
View 3 RepliesI love my '86 Mustang GT convertible. Currently at 106,000 miles and running strong. The problem is searching at idle. I have replaced every sensor that me and my mechanic can think of. New plugs and wires along with rotor and distributor cap. The engine will start searching, i.e. idling up and down, and at time stall. If I apply slight pressure and idle up to 1,000 RPM the searching stops. Hard to do sometimes as this is a stick.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 Accent GS, 5 speed. While sitting at a red light, or even rolling in neutral, the car will just die out. 90% of the time, the car will start right back up, no problem. A few times, though, it would not start right back up.. I put my flashers on, and just keep trying. It eventually starts up again, as people honk and get angry at me, but once a nice guy pulled over and offered to give me a jump and it started right up. I drove right to an autoparts store and had them test my battery, starter and alternator. All came back perfectly fine. There is no check engine light coming on when this happens. There is no code produced. A knowledgeable friend recommended i just change the battery since my car is 6yrs old, 104k miles. He said he had a similar experience and just changing out the battery solved everything. Well, i just did that and it stalled again. That obviously was not the problem.
View 8 RepliesNoticed this to be a problem with our older 2011 Accent, now with the 2012 Accent.
The car has a rough idle usually in mornings, it seems like it is going to stall at stops, it also has a tough time accelerating.
The computer scan does not show there is anything wrong until the problem becomes worse.
This is what I have discovered through the 2011 Accent. Car will stall at stops. Very inconvenient in rush hour traffic. Until they replace the Crankshaft Point Censor, the problem would not go away.
I would insist on looking at this rather than replacing sparkplugs or having any other service performed if one is experiencing these same symptoms. The good thing is it is under warranty.
I have a 1999 Hyundai Accent manual transmission. It's been a great car but over the past few months there is a problem that the mechanics can't figure out. The car is fine driving initially. Once it's warmed up, parked for about an hour, and started up again, it bucks every time I ease up on the gas. It seems to be worse at slow speeds - 30 or under - but still occurs at higher speeds.
View 2 RepliesI have an 01 hyundai accent. When I press the accelerator the car chugs and shakes and i have a hard time getting any power when accelerate. It takes too much time to get up speed. The power is not well transmitted to the tires.What could be the problem?
View 4 RepliesI have 2004 chrysler sebring and lately when I'm at a light/stop sign the rpm gauge fluctuates between 1000 and 500 and wants to stall. I've been told to change the spark plugs and wires, cleaned the throttle body, and put in a new air filter. What else I should do?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 F150 XLT, Supercab 6.5' bed, 4x4 5.4 Automatic with 67000 miles on it. Its not a Flex Fuel
Over the past couple of weeks it would get go through random rough idling spell or stall going down the road. If it was sitting it would idle clear down to 200 RPM's and just sound like an old 'chitty-chitty-bang-bang' car, not a modern marvel of Ford engineering!
I noticed it particularly does it this on an incline. Initially I fixed it by just coasting to where it was flat. I normally keep it above half a tank so i dont think its a fuel pump not getting fed. So I replaced the fuel filter yesterday hoping it was full or clogged, no changed.
This morning it would start at all, I removed the negative terminal on the battery, rolled to the level, tried it 30 times. Nothing. I checked all of my connectors under the hood and the 2 below the cab under the plastic cover. Everything was connected. I disconnected the fuel pressure sensor and it fired right up and runs smoother than since I've owned it.
It hasn't had any CEL lights, until I disconnected that sensor. Should I drop the tank and clean it? Is there any special gasket kits or connectors I should be aware of? Should I just replace that sensor? Is it connected with a chain of sensors I should check first?
My wife has a 2004 Hyundai Accent. This morning when she tried to leave for work only one wheel spun, the other dragged behind. What's going on? Brakes, CV joint, transmission?
View 14 RepliesI own an automatic transmission 2004 Hyundai Accent with about 180,000 miles. I bought it brand new, but it seems to be having trouble shifting into the right gear. Many transmission "specialists" keep telling me they can't figure out what is wrong, aside from offering to completely rebuild my transmission. The car has the following symptoms:
1. At a stop sign or red light, my car doesn't always begin idling properly. Sometimes it just won't go anywhere at all, even with the motor running.
2. As I drive down the highway, it acts like it jumps into a higher gear for no reason. It sometimes resets itself with no action on my part.
3. The car jerks back and forth, not seemingly due to shifting into gear, but randomly.
4. The check engine light does not come on often, but by the time I can use a DTC reader, the light goes off.
Everything seems to be intermittent, so I can't replicate the problem on-demand for anyone who wants to inspect the problems. Is there anything I can do? Is there an easy way to figure out what's really going on? I'm assuming this is transmission-related...
About 6 weeks ago, I started my car and it started, but when it did it shook really hard until I turned the engine off. I started it again a few minutes later, and it started just fine; it was a little rough at first, but smoothed out after about 15 seconds. I drove it without any further issue until about 3 weeks ago. It cranked and shook like hell again, without starting. A few minutes later, I tried again, and it started up smoothly. A week ago, I got in the car to come back from the store, and it cranked, didn't shake, but wouldn't start. When the tow truck guy told me my overage for a tow was going to be 105.00 for 12 miles, I told him he was insane and cancelled my tow and then magically, my car started up. I figured it's a fuel or spark problem, and changed the plugs and wires since it's about time to do that anyway. A few days go by, damn car won't start again.
So this is the pattern: Car starts and runs totally fine, except occasionally when it doesn't want to start and only cranks and shakes, and then you leave it alone for a random amount of time (from 5 minutes to a half hour), and it eventually starts. I thought it was only when it was at 1/4 tank or below and was thinking maybe the fuel pump, but today I have 2/3 of a tank and it happened again. Check engine light is only on when it won't start, when it starts up fine the light is off. It's happening more frequently now and I can't afford to keep swapping parts only to find out it's not fixed, so I need to get it figured out. 2004 Hyundai Accent 1.6L....
I recently got an oil change at EZ Lube and since then my engine seems to be running a little harder. You can feel it vibrating more than normal while idling and when stopped at a light when it turns off, it REALY turns off like it's choking out and sort of kicks the whole car a bit when it shuts off.
I just switched the air filter just in case as it seem similar to my old car that would die if the carburetor wasn't bringing in enough air, but I'm not as familiar with fuel injected engines. Could it be the fuel filter or other engine issue?
I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent, has 167k miles on it. Transmission has 80k, put in at about 155k. Came home from Tahoe, and the next day, I tried to go to work, and the gear shift was stuck in first. Hadn't had the money to get anything fixed, but when I finally got it looked at, was told I needed a new clutch and possibly a new flywheel. Been cleaning it out to sell, and today I started it up and realized that the stick is in neutral and moves back and forth freely, but the transmission is in gear. I know that, because I had to keep my foot on the clutch to keep it running. What would cause that? I'm hoping it's something easy and cheaper to fix, because I love this car and am not ready to part with it just yet. The clutch doesn't have that many miles on it either, maybe 10-15k, if that. I've had the car for almost ten years, so it's not poor driving, on my part.
View 6 RepliesMy 2006 Passat 3.6 developed this problem very recently and wanted some opinion as to what could be wrong before taking it to the dealer as it's now out of warranty with 115,000k.
Basically, once the oil reaches 90C, the car will stall after idling for a few minutes. The revs will hover at the 600 mark, and it will just stall. I can turn it back on right after without any issues and can also prevent this from happening by keeping the revs up myself while stopped...
The idle is also a bit rough: the revs are stable on the tach, but I can feel some vibration in the cabin which wasn't there before...
I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent, stick shift. I replaced the rear brake shoes and the wheel cylinder on the driver's side and bled it after, and now my e-brake doesn't have any tension in the handle and the brake light doesn't come on when you pull it up. The brake does set enough, when you pull the handle up, to stop the car from moving, but I think on a steep incline it would probably roll. How to fix it?
View 5 Replies2004 Prius, 135,000 miles.
About a month ago, the blower motor stopped coming on all the time. A quick whack under the glove box fixed it when it didn't start. Then about a week after that, I felt like the AC wasn't really warming when needed. This may have been true earlier, but it hasn't been that cold around here, so I wouldn't have noticed, perhaps.
About a week ago, I start hearing what I might describe as a rattling kind of noise I had never heard before sometimes under hard acceleration. Not always. Didn't hear the noise tonight, for example. Of course, then, tonight, on the interstate, the warning light pops up for just long enough for the temperature indicator to flash up. It quickly disappeared, but in the remaining two minutes I was driving, it flashed up briefly twice more.
Now, in digging around on this topic, I've read about issues with the inverter coolant pump, and that there was a recall. How could I find some information on this recall? I don't remember ever having it changed, so I'm just curious what I might need to say to get that swapped out under a recall if appropriate.
Also, based on what I've said, does it seem likely that the issue is with that pump? It sure seems to fit the bill, but who knows. I'll be bringing the car in ASAP but I'd naturally like to be armed with as much information as possible.
I have a 2007 with 68k miles, and both the power outlet under the radio area-passenger side and the one in the console just stopped working (I use them to power my GPS and to charge my iPhone and iPad). From poking around this site, I think this could be because of blown fuses, but it seems strange that both fuses would go at the same time.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2008 Hyndai Elantra with an automatic transmission. Since the first week I have had my car when the fuel is low (under a half of tank) the car tends to hesitate like it wants to stall, or momentarily shifts into a higher gear than it needs to be for the situation; the rmp's get very low. As the tank drops further below half full, the problem gets progressively worse, especially while trying to accelerate hard; i.e. entering the highway, starting from a red light, etc (times requiring a lower gear). I have brought my car to the dealer for service three times also asking them about this problem. Each time they can not replicate the problem which seems ridiculous since it is difficult to not have the problem when the tank is low.
The day I purchased my car I was speaking with another Elantra customer who was waiting for her car in the service department. She had just purchased her vehicle as well and already had to bring it in for a fuel pump recall. I believe the recall states that the fuel pump fails and causes the car to stall, sounds very similar to what my car wants to do. I have asked about this recall on my vehicle and have been told that it does not affect my car.
I accidentally "popped the clutch" while parking in my driveway and now there's something wrong with the clutch pedal!!
I let the car stall out on accident and somehow had the clutch engaged while in gear and forgot or something and when I released the pedal while still in gear, the car tried to start, but I pushed the clutch in instead of letting it start and now the clutch pedal is all the way to the floor, there is no tension, like a spring came loose, but this is a hydraulic clutch so there wouldn't be a spring, right? What did I do?? And how can I fix it?
2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS
I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent. The temperature gauge in the car moves toward the "danger zone" only under both the following conditions:
1) Car is at IDLE after being driven for a while (15-20 minutes). 2) Headlights are ON (I've sat in the car and watched the temperature gauge move up and then back down as I turn on and thrn turn off the headlights).
*What I've also noticed is that the temperature gauge starts moving up as the radiator fans kick ON.
I am having issues with my air conditioning on the 05 prius. For some reason when I leave to go somewhere its fine, but if I stop for long periods of the time the a/c stops cooling, the fan is still blowing. Once i take off it cools somewhat better but still not cold as it should be.
I have already had the car checked for DTCs and there are none, plus I had the a/c vacuumed down and recharged to factory specs, it still has the same problem.