Hyundai - Accent :: 2004 - Ebrake Doesn't Have Any Tension / Brake Light Not Coming On?
Mar 9, 2014
I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent, stick shift. I replaced the rear brake shoes and the wheel cylinder on the driver's side and bled it after, and now my e-brake doesn't have any tension in the handle and the brake light doesn't come on when you pull it up. The brake does set enough, when you pull the handle up, to stop the car from moving, but I think on a steep incline it would probably roll. How to fix it?
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent. The brake light recently came on. I never use the emergency brake so I am not sure what it may mean. I wanted to know if any one know what this could be about before I take the car in to a mechanic.
View 5 Replies
I was coming home from work today and I got a little screwed over. So I got stuck about 10 times in 2 feet of snow and my tires looked like they burned out they smell horrible but I have a bigger problem. The brake light when on the e-brake and stayed on what does that mean?? is it a leak? Then the ABS light when on probably because of no traction but is it a major problem?
View 10 Replies
During recent cold/ice spell, went to use my rear wiper and heard a pop (there was ice around the wiper base), then the wiper was flipping all over the place. Now I can hear the motor running but the wiper doesn't move. Plus, I can easily move it around by hand - no resistance. Do I have to replace the whole motor or is there possibly a gear or linkage between the motor and arm that stripped or popped away, so that can be fixed? 2002 Hyun Accent.
View 5 Replies
2009 Hyundai Accent w/~90k miles
The other day my car failed, showing all the signs of a bad alternator (battery light on, lights dimming/flickering, etc.).Had a mechanic look at it and it was definitely the alternator - the bracket had even broken - as well as the battery.After replacing, though, it still has a problem with charging the battery, at least on initial start.Basically, when you start the car, the battery light comes on immediately. Hit the accelerator or drive 15-20 feet and the battery light goes out and the alternator starts charging again.
The mechanic thinks it is a wiring problem and said that would cost 800+ to fix. He suggested I just live with it. Does his diagnosis seem correct? Are there other things I should look at and/or test?
View 13 Replies
E brakes were sticking so I took off wheels, rotors, calipers, and cleaned the E Brake caliper and lubed it. Started driving and E brakes are still sticking? What gives? Could the cable be hung up? Wonder if I should replace the E brake cables.
View 4 Replies
Is there a "how to" on adjusting the tension of the timing belt in a 2002 accent 1.5L ....
View 1 Replies
So my 2007 Accent/Hatchback started having this weird issue the other day.
My Parking Brake/Low Brake fluid Level Warning Light will coming on while driving and then all the gauges drop down. The light goes off and the gauges come right back up. All this happens within 2-4 seconds maybe. And usual happens maybe once every 6-7 times I drive it so not all the time.
I am driving, not braking so even more confused.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2009 Accent with 8800 miles on it. The battery warning kept coming on while I was driving, took it to Hyundai dealership and they said the alternator had an issue and they replaced it. The day I brought the car back from the dealership the warning popped up again, took it back to them and they kept my car for a week and finally told me there was an issue with ground.Its been a month and I finally thought it was resolved until 2 days back it popped up again. I don't know if it makes any sense but the warning showed when I turned on the heater and the rear defroster on. Once the warning light came on, now even if the rear defroster is not on my battery warning light comes on. It doesn't show up every time I start the car but frequently. Sometimes when the warning light is on the rear defroster does not work. What could it be?
View 2 Replies
I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent with 210,000 miles. I had had very few problems with the car in the past 11 years - 2 sensor problems, transmission related at 100K and oxygen sensor at 160K. I have done oil changes every 3000-4000 miles, transmission flushes every 30K, and timing belt replacements every 60K. However, within the last month, the car sometimes dies when I fast or slow brake to a stop. Due to the high mileage, I had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced and had the timing/tuneup checked. There is no check computer light lit. What else can I check?
View 4 Replies
I purchased a 2009 Hyundai Accent Automatic with less than 50000 Miles. I recently had to replace spark plug connector due to rats. Now, having issues with getting it to drive in the mornings. Description;I let the car warm up about 2 minutes before putting it in drive. Once I let my foot off of the brake the car begins to jolt forward and won't stop until I put my foot back on the brake. Even while holding the brake the car jolts but won't go forward. I have to put the car back in Park before it will stop. This goes on for about 15 to 20 minutes. Then, as if there were never any problems, the car drives as it is supposed to. *I have turned the car off and restarted but the car still jolts forward until it decides not to.I have checked the transmission fluid and it doesn't appear dirty but maybe low. Would low transmission fluid level cause this type of behavior? I am on a budget and a huge transmission bill is not really something I can afford right now. But I need to be able to get to work everyday. I can't imagine that the transmission is going up when the car has less than 50000 miles on it. I've had it since the middle of January.
View 4 Replies
I know brake squealing indicates worn brakes and time to check/replace. But I notice on my 2009 Hyundai Accent, the squeal only happens going downhill (maybe uphill too, but one usually doesn't brake much there), and on non-level surfaces at times. But for most day to day driving it's level enough to not hear any squeals.
My question is what might this indicate with regards to the brakes or other components? Is it a special type of wear or uneven wear of the brakes? Since even wear would have the brakes squealing all the time I'd assume.
I'm going to have it inspected, but wanted to get some thoughts here beforehand.
View 2 Replies
I own a 2000 Hyundai Accent with 85,000 miles on it. I recently took my car into a local shop because the pressure on my brake pedal was extremely low. I was almost pushing it to the floor. On my first trip to the shop, they replaced the rear wheel cylinders because they were leaking. This replacement didn't fix my problem.
On the second trip to the shop, they replaced my master cylinder. I did call around to other shops to do a price comparison and the price was reasonable on both jobs. This work was done about two weeks ago.
At first, this seemed to fix my problem, the pressure was perfect. Since then I've been having an intermittent problem with the brake pedal pressure changing. It would get a little hard during driving, but would correct itself after a few moments. I don't drive that often or very far, so I was waiting to see if the problem would get worse.
Last night it did. I went out and when I tried to drive my car home my pedal was extremely hard. I could barely push it. While I was driving my car home (I was close to home), it felt like I was driving with my brakes on. My car would stop as soon as I took my foot off the gas pedal, I could not coast. When I got out, I could feel heat coming from the front tires, which I didn't even have work done on. There was also a smell that I've never smelled before. It almost smelled like something burning.
I was told I should have my car towed back to the shop on a lifted bed and not rolled there and that they should fix my car at no charge because they did something wrong.
My ultimate question is did the shop do something wrong and should I take it back to them if they did? Should they be responsible for this new repair? I don't want to go demanding anything if it's possible this is a whole new problem and not their fault. Even though it does seem like an awfully big coincidence. My next question is: what could be possibly wrong with my car? I would like to know what I'm getting myself into.
View 1 Replies
Vehicle is a 94 Suburban. The front brakes were done approximately 14K miles ago. Rear about 10K miles ago. Ever since the front brake job (new rotors, pads) there has been a sound, sort of like spring tension being released whenever I (quickly) release the brake pedal. I think I notice it now more than ever because I don't have working ac and the windows are usually down. The thing is, if I slowly release the pedal I hear nothing. When it does happen it is definitely coming from the front and is more predominant (I think) on the right side. So far I have yet to hear this sound coming from any other vehicle stopped beside me in traffic so something must be out of whack.
I mentioned this to the mechanic who did the brakes (only shortly thereafter) and he checked it out and said nothing was amiss. Recently I had new tires installed so I asked the (different) mechanic to check the brakes again (front and rear). Apart from cleaning out the drums and a minor adjustment on the rear they said everything was good. Now I've never had any issues with stopping and I've had a few hard braking episodes without incident but this snapping noise for want of a better description is driving me nuts. One final observation: I cannot get the 'sound' to occur when I am sitting in Park and depress and then quickly release the brake pedal.
View 3 Replies
Dad has a Hyundai Accent that hasn't had the best service history. After discovering this I started doing minor stuff (oil & filter, spark plugs, etc) on the car. The car has done 119,000km and about 2 months ago I decided to change the auto trans fluid and filter, I don't think its ever been done before and the fluid was pretty bad. I followed the tutorials exactly and everything was fine until yesterday. It seems the car get stuck in 3rd and downshifts badly when coming to a stop. When I last drove it I got home and quickly opened up the hood. I could see smoke coming from somewhere near the trans and there was a bad smell. We haven't driven the car since and I don't know what the problem is. I've checked on google and some people have used a scanning tool to get the error code, but the car doesn't throw a check engine light so will the error code be there?
View 12 Replies
I just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine.What part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2004 Accent GS. It is an automatic. I have had it for almost a year.
In early November, the check engine light came on when the temperature dropped drastically and it went off when it warmed up a bit about 3 days later. Since then it seems to come on randomly and stay on for a few days then go off (usually around once-twice a month). Then in late December I noticed that the car had trouble starting after I refueled it, the first two times I though it was because I had let the fuel get down too much. Now every time I fuel up it does this. But just the first time turning on the car and no other time after that.
The check engine light had not come on again for almost a month, and then about a week ago it came on again. I double checked all the fluids and the gas cap but that's about as far as my knowledge of cars goes. When the light has come on I have not really noticed any handling differences. However since I need to put the car through an inspection very soon it is now concerning me a bit more. What could be causing the check engine light to go on and off?
View 3 Replies
'02 Hyundai Accent, 165K miles... My route to work is six miles of secondary roads and city streets (25-40 mph), followed by 16 miles of interstate highway (65-70 mph), then another nine miles of secondary roads and city streets.
I have noticed only recently (last couple of weeks) that when I get to the end of the interstate leg in either direction, as I wait for the light at the end of the ramp, my oil light will flicker (sometimes very faintly) if I leave my foot on the clutch. If I get into neutral and release the clutch, the light stays off. It will do that at two more stops in rapid succession, but by the time I am at the last traffic light or stop sign of the trip, it has stopped flickering regardless whether the clutch is in or out.
Oil is recently changed and at proper level.
View 13 Replies
I just bought a 2008 Hyundai Accent about 2 weeks ago. It has 65,000 miles on it. One week after purchase the check engine light came on. The dealership looked at it and said it was just a leak from the gas cap. So I purchased a new gas cap and the light is still on. I had the guys at AutoZone hook it up to their computer and they said the same thing. They also said that if the light is still on after putting on a new gas cap it could be the fuel injector or a vacuum leak. It has been less than 30 days that I have had this car. What is my next step here?
View 1 Replies
One of my belts squeaks. I've tightened one of them as far as it goes I think. The other one is the one with the alternator. Do I tighten the pulley bolt on the alternator to add tension to that one?
View 4 Replies
My wife has a 2004 Hyundai Accent. This morning when she tried to leave for work only one wheel spun, the other dragged behind. What's going on? Brakes, CV joint, transmission?
View 14 Replies
