Looking for really good ceramic brake pads and rotors for my 2013 Honda Accord LX? I use my car for everyday driving in the city and highway and was hoping to find something that works well in all weather conditions including snow.
View 19 RepliesI'm trying to replace the front brake rotors on a 97 Ford Explorer (AWD, 5.0 L). I've removed the calipers and pads - but can not loosen the old rotors. It looks held on by rust - but do I need a special rotor pulling tool?
View 8 RepliesThe shop replacing my front tires advised me to replace my front brakes and rotors soon. I'm not a huge car repair person, but I remembered my father-in-law saying brakes aren't that bad to work with. The car is the "college beater" I bought ten years ago and I'm trying to keep investments in it minimal. I told the shop I would do the brakes myself. So I spent the weekend with the Haynes manual fussing with overtorqued lug nuts, rusted on rotors, tightly wedged guide pins, and outer pads that didn't seem to have room (not the piston side). Got everything assembled, bled the caliper that was disconnected, and took it for a test drive.
I got about 30 feet from the driveway before pulling back in. The front of the car was making an grumble sound and had an odd vibration like a flat tire. This was with brakes engaged and not engaged. The car stopped fine, but I probably didn't get above 10 mph. Is this part of the "bedding/seating" process? I put in new (cheap) rotors and pads. This afternoon I'll check to ensure the pads are in properly and aren't dragging on the rotor and that I have the wheels properly centered. Car is a 96 Ford Escort 2 door hatchback.
Our 03 Civic recently went into the shop for a rotor replacement and the shop did an oil change for us while they were at it. My wife got the car back and she immediately noticed that the "AC" wasn't working. After asking a few additional questions (I'm not in the same city this week), it isn't the AC that isn't working, the fan/blower isn't turning on at all. We had the same shop check it out again and their response was that they weren't anywhere near the blower motor so this just has to be a coincidence. I could accept that but I'm still worried about a scam.
The car was in the shop just to have the rotors put on, not an oil change but they did an oil change for us anyway. (I was going to change the rotors myself but I couldn't get the caliper hangers off and it was 100+ degrees outside so I decided to have the shop mess with it), Would it be easy to sabotage the blower motor on this car?
My 97 f150 had been sitting for a while and after a few miles I could smell brakes and the left front rotor was hot. So I removed the caliper to see if I could free it up. When i push 1 piston in with a C clamp the other one comes out and visa-verse but I cannot push both in with 2 C clamps. When I push the brake pedal they both come out. Its like there is a check valve in the line. How should I go about trouble shooting this?
View 1 RepliesI just had the front seals replaced in my 93 accord standard shift wagon. After about 4 days the clutch started feeling "soft" and now it's almost down to the floor in order to engage it. I wonder if this has anything to do with the seal replacement?
View 14 RepliesI have a 1994 Honda Accord Ex i went an had a brake booster and brake master cylinder put on my car. About 3 to 4 days later my brakes locked up on me so i had the brakes bleed, a new brake line, and a need ABS pump put on and the brakes are still locking up what is causing this to happen?
View 2 RepliesI have a '94 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder with ABS. The brakes work fine until I press the ac compressor button, then they rapidly begin to fade, letting the pedal go to the floor. When I turn off the ac compressor, the pedal gradually firms up back to normal. If it was the booster, it would be hard to brake, but it's not. If it was the master cylinder, the pedal would be soft all the time as the cups can not magically regenerate when the ac is off. What's the connection with the ac compressor.
View 5 RepliesMy Honda starts missing and dies when I use the brakes. Why?
View 6 RepliesMy 2005 Honda Accord (approx 48,000 miles) has had squeaky/grinding brakes for the last few months. The brakes make a horrible grinding noise for the first few times that I brake each time that I drive it, and then as the car warms up the noise seems to go away. It also shakes a little bit when it's making the grinding noise - not a ton, but enough that I think there must be something wrong. It's worse (during those first few brakings) if I brake hard, but even if I'm really gently applying the brake it makes the same unsettling noise. The squeaking noise doesn't go away ever, but I don't think it's as serious as the grinding noise (but I could be wrong - that's why I'm here!).
I took it to a brake specialty place in November or December and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Other than regular oil changes and tire rotations, the car hasn't had any repairs.
My Honda Accord 2002 feels like brakes apply themselves when driving. Car slows down and brake pedal is really sensitive meaning it feels harder than usual and easier to brake. Dont know if it is the brake master cylinder, brake booster or something else.
View 4 RepliesI just had my right drive axle replaced on my 1992 accord today at a mechanic chain store. I have notice fluid leaking/dripping from where the axle and transmission meet. What is occurring? Could it be they didn't replaced any seals or the axle is a wrong fit. Its a manual transmission by the way.
View 6 Replies2000 Honda Accord. Lots of whining-whirring noise when turning the steering wheel so I replaced the power steering pump. Then replaced the fluid and I did use the Honda fluid. But even with the new pump and fluid I'm still getting the whining-whirring sound from the pump when turning. Now what?
View 5 RepliesFront discs and pads replaced about 10k ago and still under warranty - work done by my mechanic whom I have been patronizing for the last 8 years. When the brakes are applied at 40 MPH plus, get a low pitched "HMMMMMMMM" type of sound that goes away as the car decelerates through 40. It is sort of annoying but the brakes work perfectly fine. A mechanic that works for the shop rode with me and listened, and didn't offer much of an explanation or offer to remove the wheels and inspect the brakes. In other words, he cited this as normal. Would it be advisable to get a 2nd opinion? I've never had this issue with brakes on other vehicles I've owned, especially with new brakes.
View 10 RepliesAt 55k, 72k, 76K and 91k the rear brakes have hung up, become very hot and smoked badly. Dealer service claims it comes from rust binding the calipers because we live in the Northeast. I've been driving for 35 years and never had an issue with any other vehicle. They cleaned the calipers and sent me on my way. I think there is an underlying issue. There is no way I should have this issue every 20,000 miles ( or less ). What else could cause this? Brake Lines? Master Cyl? Honda service want nothing to do with it. At very least I asked them to replace the calipers which they did not agree to do.
View 11 RepliesWhich one is better and why?
View 10 Replies2013 Accord Touring, automatic. I bought it brand new last January from the dealer. Two months ago, I went to parallel park and the entire car started violently jerking. It's done it several times since then and here's what I've gathered:
1) The car primarily jerks at low speeds 1-5 mph in both reverse and drive, primarily when parking but sometimes when I'm accelerating from 0 mph,
2) Applying the break stops all jerking, applying the gas again commences jerking
3) This happens typically in cold weather when the car is both cold and hot, but not every time I drive/park it
4) The AC/Heat "cycles" down/up (less air blowing) right before the jerking begins,
5) Typically my "Forward Collision Crash Problem" alert flashes on and then off for no apparent reason,but I can't necessarily correlate this
6) The RPMs do bounce a little bit (a notch or two) during the jerking,
7) Eco mode is on and off when this happens and
8) There are no error lights/warnings/beeping/etc. to indicate that there is anything wrong.
My best description of the jerking is that it comes from the front, center of the car. You know when you drive a manual and you don't give it enough gas as you shift and the car jerks? That's what this feels like.
I've brought it to the dealer twice and they can't recreate the problem, everything checks out as clean and they don't know of any service bulletins about it.
I recently had an oil change at a new shop. While I was there, they said I needed to get a power steering and brake fluid flush and recommended a fuel induction service. I have a 2003 Honda Accord with about 107,000 miles on it. The car runs fine, I have no problems. Occasionally, when I hit the brakes, there is a high pitched squeak.
I've been doing research and getting mixed results on if these services are necessary. What could be the cause of the brake noise?
My 2013 Accord V6 EX-L with 5,000 miles emits a strange sound, under certain circumstances. The sound is hard to describe but reminds me of the old days when your engine would "ping" or "knock" if you used gas with too little octane. Of course, the current Accord only requires regular gas. At any rate when cruising between about 45 and 60 MPH, if you push on the accelerator (not enough to cause a downshift) and especially if on a small incline, you hear a very distinct knocking or rattling sound. Over the past 6 months, the sound seems to become more frequent and noticeable.
I have been to the dealer and the service manager drove the car and agrees he hears the sound. But after consulting with Honda engineering they concluded it is "characteristic" of this engine. They say it emanates from the "paddles" (??) within the automatic transmission vibrating or rattling. After being told that, I drove 2 other 2013 V6 Accords on their lot, and they both made the same sound. My question is, do any other owners notice this? I find it very distracting and also disappointing after paying so much for a new vehicle only to own something that strikes me as deficient.
How can Honda produce and distribute a vehicle with this annoying and obtrusive characteristic? It is hard to believe they did not catch this and fix it during product development. I even drove a 2014 V6 Accord last week and could just make out the beginnings of this same sound, so apparently it was not engineered out for 2014. This makes me lose confidence in long term ownership of the vehicle as well as fearful of potential future transmission problems.
I have 2013 Honda Accord 6 sp manual with 25k miles on, its clutch was completed gone last week, got new replacement, local Honda customer rep. told me I should watch my driving pattern, should using more break, instead transmission slow down, particular from high speed/high gears. I told them, we have 2008 Civic 5 speed Manual, I taught my two daughters how to drive it, and the car is still running without any problem… And, this is manual transmission car, tell a driver can not using/changing gears slowing down car is a joke… but maybe I am wrong...
Is there a possibility Accord has design problem with inferior clutch materials used on their new 6 speeds manual Accord? Since car has new clutch, should I keep it for a while? Or, sale it immediately? I just can’t not see I am going to come up another 3rd replacement on clutch before the car get into 60K miles.
When I'm driving at highway speeds and hit the brakes hard-ish (e.g., if the car in front of me stops or if I suddenly realize I'm going too fast on an exit ramp), my 1997 Honda Accord feels like it's shimmying from side to side. It only happens for a moment, but in that moment I feel like I'm on the verge of losing control of the car.
I've only noticed this in the last few months. What this might be? I'm going in for an oil change tomorrow and would like to ask my mechanic to take a look at this, but I'd like to have some theories/guesses in my back pocket before I go in.