I am trying to diagnose and engine knock I think. 2007 Honda Ridgeline 3.5 Liter. 257,000 mile. I checked the noise unplugging each coil pack with no change. I ran it without Serpentine belt no change. Here is a link to a video I made with the noise. Best at 30 second mark. [URL] .....
View 8 RepliesI have a 2007 Fit, and just recently started to have my car rumble, specifically the break pedal, when I break. We got new breaks about two years ago. I'm just wondering what it could be. Another thing is I was driving and some (explative) person decided to pull out in front of me when they really shouldn't have. I slammed on my brakes and had a grinding noise and feel to my car when that happened. Since then when I'm driving slow I get a knocking feeling against the foot area of my passenger seat. What could this be? It is kinda hard to look underneath the car since it is so low so we can't easily see by the wheels or Axel area.
View 7 RepliesOn any type of road (flat, incline, decline) when I hit 45 mph, the transmission seems to hesitate about which gear to pick. You can hear a rumbling sound (not loud) when this is occurring. Furthermore, I notice that the RPMs fluctuate up and down by about 200-300. I have brought the vehicle to several mechanics. One mechanic suggests that it's the u-joint since it has a small flat spot. Another mechanic thinks a software upgrade is needed. The trans was recently flushed and the issue still persists. I tried looking up any service bulletins and did come across SB 06-062, which addresses a 4th gear issue on 2006 Ridgelines.
View 3 RepliesWhen having an oil change at Valvoline, the mechanic informed me that the tip of the transmission dip stick was broken off. If this tip is floating around could this piece of metal damage my transmission?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 Honda Ridgeline with just shy of 120,000 miles on it. I love this little truck and have have no real problems with it at all, except the drivers seat belt. The problem is that when you pull the seat belt out to put it on, it squeals so loudly that it hurts my ears! Obviously I can't squirt oil on it, but is there anything that can be done to quiet it down without affecting its function?
View 1 Replies[URL] .... My engine has been making this sound for a while now I am at 125000 miles, what it could be and if i need to be worried about it? also, possibly unrelated, it has a SUPER hard time shifting into reverse, it gets stuck and it feels just super sticky shifting in and out of reverse. Sometimes I can't even get it to go into reverse without letting the car roll a bit. Also, at around 3k rpm the engine sounds a little grinder in any gear. 2008 Honda Fit Sport ...
View 19 RepliesMy 2007 CM Santa Fe 45K miles began acting up intermittently. We have owned it 5 years from new and never any issues whatsoever. My wife told me that first thing in the morning it made a horrible clanking noise and the entire car shuddered so she shut it off. Then it cranked and ran for days normally. The other morning I got in it and cranked it and man, it sounded like rods knocking, pistons slapping the crank, it was awful. Actually it sounded like premature or off time detonation, the engine would not idle and would die.
After a couple more tries the engine cranked and ran smoothly but with increasing idle speed and after two instances of normal cranking but idle increasing ever upward (same morning in sequence of 10 minutes or so of trying) I called AAA and had it carried to the dealer afraid oil pump giving out, timing belt jumped, bad crank / cam sensors, who knows? Oil was changed 5K ago with Hyundai toilet paper filter.
Anyway dealer found a code, something about engine torque excess - who knows - it wasn't causing the horrible cranking idling banging noise... did some ECM/ECU update, and repaired a TSB for the passenger side Airbag seat detector. They kept it over night and still could not make it occur.
My wife is really worried because honestly it sounds like it's going to throw a rod or something *I know it doesn't have them*. It's just a horrible gut wrenching noise. Dealer mechanics could not find anything wrong and they kept it overnight to crank it cold, and when we picked it up today it cranked fine.... She can't trust it anymore.
I am getting a loud knocking noise from the engine on my Santa Fe. The car is very low mileage of around 51K and has regular service and oil change.
Not sure what has caused this but there is a loud tapping/knocking noise coming from the engine. Have got it locally checked with the garage and Hyundai Workshop also but both have suggested that Oil levels are appropriate and they need to open engine to investigate more.
At a higher RPM the sound becomes more loud and recognizable.
my friends Hyundai Santa-FE 2007 makes a knocking noise like a hammer hitting the engine when she starts the car and drives. What could that be?
View 4 RepliesMy 2003 CRV has developed a "popping" or "knocking" noise that seems to come from the front end of the car. It doesn't happen all the time but seems to happen more and more. I've read it could be either a sway bar of CV joint issue? I've taken it to our Honda service center and they have checked it over and can't find anything wrong.
View 7 RepliesWhenever I make a sharp (think turning into driveway) turn left or right, my car makes a knocking noise. Not a clicking, but I recreated the noise by knocking 2 plastic cups together. 2012 Honda Civic LX.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2009 AWD Santa Fe with a little over 43K miles. Over the past few months it's developed a knocking noise that is most audible from the front drivers side area. The knocking speeds up or slows according to the car's speed, and appears somewhat louder when the steering wheel is turned. My initial suspicion from my surfing here is either a CV joint or wheel bearing.
I took it to the dealer that sold it to me and am getting increasingly frustrated with their work. The first irritation was yesterday when the service advisor called to say the problem was corroded rear rotors and brake pads; both wear items not covered under warranty. Though skeptical (since I was hearing the noise coming from up front, not from the back) I authorized the $300+ for turning the rotors, replacing brake pads and flushing the brake system.
When I showed up to retrieve the car I was told it'd been test driven and the problem was fixed. I asked the tech specifically whether he'd checked the CV joints and he assured me he had and they were fine. Upon driving away it was immediately obvious the knock was still there. Back to the dealer. I had the tech drive it with me in the passenger seat. He acknowledged he could now heard the knocking, but claimed he previously couldn't hear it over the horrible loud squealing from my rusted rotors; nor had he heard it on his alleged post-fix test drive. The problem with that is I've never heard this claimed horrible loud squealing, nor has my girlfriend, nor have any other regular passengers.
Back at the dealership the situation escalated when the service advisor, in defense of his tech, also claimed the horrible squealing rotors had drowned out any other noises. The problem with that is he admitted he'd not come along on any of the previous claimed test rides, and claimed to have heard the horrible squealing rotors only while the car was in the shop and/or up on the lift while the tech was turning a rear wheel by hand. Err, if the car was not driven any for distance or speed, of course you wouldn't have heard any knocking up front.
Yesterday evening I got a call from the shop advising the problem had now been diagnosed as a bad wheel bearing, front driver's side. I was assured it'd be fixed and ready this afternoon. All well and good. I showed up this afternoon and the service advisor stated the car was just getting buttoned up and we're going to test drive it. Fine, I'd like to come along on the test drive I said. He agreed, asked me to sit in the waiting room. In a few short minutes though - not long enough IMO - he came back out to advise the tech had just test driven the car (without me?!) and the knock is still there.
As of this writing I have no info from them as to what it might be. I left the car with them and asked the service advisor to have the tech(s) double check the CV joints. He got huffy with me and declared that if if the tech said he'd check them, there's no need to do so again. At this point I'm not sure whether I can trust this dealers' service department. I don't think the service advisor is being honest with me - I think he's been caught in a minor fib re: test riding and is compounding the situation by sticking with it.
I've got a 2000 Accord. I recently started hearing and feeling a hard knocking/clunking noise at the front-center of the car during the correct after a left turn. My trustworthy mechanic told me the subframe is rusted out on the right side and that it isn't safe to drive until the subframe is replaced (he also said he's seen several of these this last year). He suggested that the cause is that the hose leading away or down from the air conditioner is too short, and leaks directly onto the subframe. There is no recall on this problem currently. I've done some Internet research and there is some buzz about this, but not as much as I was hoping for.
View 17 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius that was a salvage rebuild. I have owned it close to a year without any issues, Now I have noticed that when its cold, and I press in the brakes, I hear a knock from the rear, and it feels like the brake locks up, it only does it as i am coming to a complete stop, so for instance, going from 60 mph to 40 quickly, its fine, but if i slow down to a full stop, I hear it, and feel it, then it takes a second once i press the accelerator to go again, like, it takes it a second to let go, now if i drive it around for 5 minutes or so, that goes away completely...?
View 4 Replies2009 Santa Fe only 40500 miles ... Should I Be concerned about the noise it has done this since I bought it in 2010 ...
View 2 RepliesMy new SANTA FE has merely covered 10000 km. The vehicle is running fine except a very irritating loud knocking noise from top of front windshield area. The noise is generated as soon as vehicle goes over a minor irregularity on road or even if you make a sharp right or left turn.
View 24 RepliesI have a knocking sound from my D4EB engine (2008 Santa Fe. 120,000 miles)
Problem has been any diagnosis of the cause because the mechanics cannot agree. One has said top end and another bottom end. If it is top end when I think the consensus would be to get the present engine rebuilt. However, if bottom end then, because of the increased cost, the better option might be to replace with a reconditioned engine.
I own a 07 Hyundai Sonata Limited with 31000 miles. It is 20 degrees today. When I start the car up there is this knocking sound from the engine. Once the car warms up the knocking sound only happens when the car is in drive or reverse. When the car is in park or neutral it is fairly quiet. The sounds is still there but not as loud as in drive or reverse. I have done the routine synthetic blend oil changes between 3500-4500 miles.
View 14 RepliesMy car has less than 500 miles on it. Yesterday when I started it, I heard a knocking sound. I only put 87 octane gas in the car as the manual said 87 or higher. I don't know if I made a mistake putting 87 in there.
View 4 RepliesMy car is making this noise. Its only at idle. Doesn't affect fuel economy, just alarming.
View 19 RepliesWhen the engine of my 2007 Camry LE V6 is cold, it makes a ticking/knocking sound. The engine has 100,000 kms on it (60k miles). The frequency of the sound varies with the speed of the engine, not with the speed of the car.
When engine is cold: The sound happens roughly twice a second when the engine idles (at 700-800 rpm).
When engine is warm: The noise is less audible. It can be heard when idled at a stop, but you have to listen for it. The noise cannot be heard on the highway.
The car doesn't burn oil, and the oil level is ok. I had the oil changed 3000 kms ago, and it is still very clean (clear). The was the same before and after the oil change.
I am wondering if it could be the lifters, bad plug, or maybe a timing issue.