Honda - Prelude :: 2001 - CEL Went On / When Accelerating From Stop Engine Stutters Briefly
Mar 6, 2012
I got the car last fall so I don't know too much of the history. I will list the symptoms the best I can.-goes through about a quart of oil every 300 miles, looks to mostly come out the exhaust-seems to really blow smoke when the vtec activates-as the weather has gotten colder, it has been idling erratically until it warms up.-check engine light went on today-when accelerating from stop engine stutters briefly (this started when light came on)-warm idle speed now seems to be over 1000 rpm....
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2004 F150 FX4 97K
When accelerating and turning from a stop (like making a left hand turn), the rear end kind of stutters and then hops/bumps and goes smooth. One wheel turning faster than the other? Researching this site it sounds like the bad clutch packs TSB.
Question: How long can I drive with this problem before I mess something else up seriously on the truck?
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1984 prelude...1.8l .... I have posted previously on this vehicle and I have had some "success". The car will run with the support of starting fluid but will only stay running if the engine is kept at 2500 rpms or higher. If you let off the gas, it will bog out and die. Starting it requires another shot of starting fluid and a foot on the gas.
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Periodically the engine light comes on and then when I hit the gas it "stutters" and the car jerks - similar jerking feeling when you are learning to drive a stick shift but this car is an automatic. I have to take foot off gas pedal and keep slowly applying again to building up speed. The stuttering stops as soon as I take my foot off the gas pedal. Sometimes when I stop the car, turn it off, the light will turn off and the car drives great. Sometimes that doesn't work and the light stays on for a day or two then magically is gone when I start the car again. I have noticed the light comes on most often if I haven't warmed it up enough before driving, but other times it just comes on. I have taken it to two different Honda dealers and they don't know what the issue is.
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Yesterday as I crawled my way through heavy traffic on my drive home from work, my car started lurching unexpectedly. When I let up on the gas, the lurching subsided. I was able to recreate the behavior multiple times on my drive home, as well as while parked in my driveway. As the RPM exceeded 2500 the engine would lose oomph/power and the RPM would start stuttering/oscillating between ~2500 and ~2800 RPM. The behavior was identical regardless of which gear I was in (D1, D2, D3, D, or N), regardless of my speed, and regardless of how aggressively I was pressing the accelerator pedal. Every time the RPM hit 2500, the engine freaked out.
This morning, it did NOT happen when I tested it briefly. I was able to rev up to 3500-4000 RPM without any issues. I did read a case online in which someone experienced a similar issue that only manifested after the engine had been running a while. My car has ~173k miles on it, and this is its first engine issue. What might be causing this?
Video attached; also located here: [URL] ....
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I did a compression test on the Prelude. Pulled plugs, cranked thru the test, but did not ground out the ignition. Put it back together and no spark. Changed the coil, no start. Changed the ICM and it coughed and sputtered, then cleared and ran well. Shut it off, then it wouldn't start. Sometimes it starts, sometimes not. Air temp doesn't seem to effect it.
Honda shop told me it was out of time, then I left Honda, kicked it into V-TEC and went onto the freeway with 3rd gear maxed out. Timing isn't the issue. The battery is fully charged and it has great fuel pressure. So far I have replaced the coil, ICM, distributor, battery and main relay. Still won't start. Could it have burned the ECM? I have run thru the wiring with a meter and cannot find anything wrong.
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I have a 93 Prelude that randomly shuts down and stalls. When this happens there are no signs of life in the car. All lights and accessories shut off and the car stalls. After anywhere from 2 mins to 15 mins you will be able to restart the car and continue on your way. I am the only owner of the car. It has 83,000 miles on it. At this point it happens very randomly without warning. Usually about 3 or 4 times a month.
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I am purchasing a car on eBay which was stated to have the following problem: "the clutch is grabbing very very low it does not slip i think it is just the hydraulics? ". When I asked if I would need to have it serviced in order to drive it 1500 miles back home ( which in my mind meant an oil change), their response was that I would need to have the master cylinder replaced in order to drive it that far...
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This 1997 Honda prelude 140k has an oil leak that when I turn the car on that oil starts to gush out of it. I'm not sure what would cause oil to gush out of the bottom. It's not the oil drain plug nor is it the oil filter.
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I have a 96 prelude that wont stay in 5th gear cant even hold it in...
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I have a 01 Hyundai Accent, 1.5L, stick shift. My CEL came on and I had it read. Mechanic told me it was P1128 (Fuel Lean) or something like that. Looked it up on line and everything said to check for air leaks and then look at the MAF Sensor. I checked and saw no leaks. Took out MAF Sensor and cleaned it with MAF Cleaner. Disco'd battery to reset computer. CEL went out for maybe 30 minutes and then back on. Didn't do anything with it for about 4 months, now car stutters sometimes.
So, I finally broke down and bought MAF Sensor and replaced myself. Disco'd battery to reset computer. Started up and engine was not smooth at first(30 seconds) then smoothed up. But CEL still on. Drove home (25 minutes) and checked again this morning. CEL is off! Only problem is that the car stutters a little at acceleration. Smooth when at cruising RPM and speed. Just stutters a little at start of acceleration and when switching gears until at cruising speed. Is this going to go away? Is the computer just getting set up after changing MAF Sensor?
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1994 Honda Prelude has 1 out of the 4 brakes that are working. Only the driver side brake is working. I used a IR thermometer and after 30 min of city driving the driver side was at 200+ degrees. The 3 other wheels were at 40-48 degrees. What could be wrong?
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1994 Honda prelude vibration in steering wheel. When I drive the car on the highway there is an intermittent vibration through the steering wheel. It isn't speed sensitive. It is off and on even at the same speed. It will come in for about 5 min and then the car will drive vibration free even at the same speed. So I don't think it's a wheel weight. I checked the inner/outer tie rods, wheel bearing, ball joints and all are fine.
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My anti lock warning comes on after 1 mile of driving. If I test the anti lock on ice during the first mile the system works fine, around 1 mile the lamp lights.
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My 2005 Honda CRV (92,000 miles) recently started shuddering when accelerating from a stop. I took it in to have the front struts replaced (back were done about a year ago) and get it aligned. Was told I needed a new CV axel. All that got changed, but shudder wasn't better. Took it back & was told steering was loose (car was pulling to the right after the alignment) and all was good. Not the case.
Took it back and was told I needed the other front CV axel replaced. Still not better. Had all 4 tires replaced (it was time). Still not better. As a side note (might be relevant...I don't know) my transmission had to be completely replaced/overhauled in Dec 2014. Was told someone had put in the wrong transmission fluid and there were metal shavings throughout. So in just over 6 months I've put close to $5000 into my ten year old, paid off car (nothing but normal maintenance until now).
Why it is still shuddering/vibrating? Reading on here, I'm supposed to make sure the wheel lug nuts are tight, but anything else I can check? Again, don't know if this might be relevant, but the car spent its first five years in a cold climate (Germany) and has since been in South Florida.
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My 2008 Honda Fit has been developing a problem for the last 6 months or so and each time I've taken it to the dealership they say there's nothing wrong. It started with the car hesitating when accelerating from a stop. This only happened if the car had been sitting for a while and it only really happened if you hit a full stop before the car had a chance to warm up, even then, it probably only happened maybe 1 out of every 10 stops.
Recently, the car has started struggling when coming to a full stop (again usually the first stop after the car has been sitting) and the car will stall out unless you give it some gas. This seems to be worse if it is cold outside (which it is now permanently cold outside) and when the car is on an incline (front higher than the back).
I took it to the dealership (because it is still under warranty) and they said the engine isn't showing any codes and the fuel pressure is fine (of course that didn't stop them from trying to sell me a new battery). However, I am concerned that this is only going to get worse and its not really acceptable for it to be stalling out regardless.
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My 2001 Prelude (not SH) develops a vibration felt throughout the car and particularly the steering wheel after several minutes of constant highway (60 - 75 MPH) speed travel. Thought it might be a brake caliper sticking, but the car does not pull left or right. After 7 or 8 minutes of vibration, it stops and the ride is smooth as glass.
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I've had a 2007 Honda Fit with around $130K for a year. Car performs ok but a recent problem started that I'm not sure about.
When accelerating after a full stop, sometimes it makes a sound like tires squealing and sometimes a thump. I notice it happens when I accelerate normally; if I do it gently it doesn't (but since I'm a former native New Yorker, "gentle" is not in my vocabulary). The squealing is not coming from my tires but from my engine. The thump happens only occasionally. And none of it happens when I'm driving; only when I start after a full stop.
Otherwise, acceleration and braking is no problem whatsoever. It may or may not be relevant, but this problem started only after I got the car professionally washed.
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I have a 1999 Town and Country van, 3.8L engine. It has 220K miles on it. Lately, when I am accelerating, it seems to do fine until I get to 40-55 mph. In that range, it stutters a bit. After that it runs fine, even at higher speeds. I usually don't get this stuttering at the lower speeds as I am, for example, accelerating to get on a highway. A mechanic friend of mine says that it may be a vac leak. Does this sound right, or are there other possibilities.
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I am going to buy a cheap 2004 CRV from work. They think it needs a wheel bearing, and it might.. However I think the sounds we are hearing is a bad motor mount. When accelerating from a dead stop it makes an odd noise that sounds like a wheel bearing, but it is quiet at speed and while jerking the wheel.. There is no weerrweerwerrr... In Drive if you have your foot on the brake, and hit the gas the motor rocks back further than I think it should. After looking at the mounts themselves though, the only one that looks bad is the driver’s side trans mount (near the air box). It looks like the rubber is broken.. So If that is my bad mount would the motor still rock, or could I have another bad one somewhere??
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I have a 2012 Ford Focus with automatic transmission with about 22k miles on it. No check engine lights on. When accelerating from standstill it always stutters a little as if it's not really 'catching on' properly (just in "first gear" it seems). It doesn't do it once you're beyond 5 - 10 mph and it doesn't do it either when for instance stepping on the gas pedal while driving. Only from standstill. It also doesn't seem to go away when the car has been driven for a little while. It's always there. What could be causing this?
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