Honda - Prelude :: 1997 - Severe Oil Leak When Turn The Car On
Jan 26, 2013
This 1997 Honda prelude 140k has an oil leak that when I turn the car on that oil starts to gush out of it. I'm not sure what would cause oil to gush out of the bottom. It's not the oil drain plug nor is it the oil filter.
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I did a compression test on the Prelude. Pulled plugs, cranked thru the test, but did not ground out the ignition. Put it back together and no spark. Changed the coil, no start. Changed the ICM and it coughed and sputtered, then cleared and ran well. Shut it off, then it wouldn't start. Sometimes it starts, sometimes not. Air temp doesn't seem to effect it.
Honda shop told me it was out of time, then I left Honda, kicked it into V-TEC and went onto the freeway with 3rd gear maxed out. Timing isn't the issue. The battery is fully charged and it has great fuel pressure. So far I have replaced the coil, ICM, distributor, battery and main relay. Still won't start. Could it have burned the ECM? I have run thru the wiring with a meter and cannot find anything wrong.
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I have a 93 Prelude that randomly shuts down and stalls. When this happens there are no signs of life in the car. All lights and accessories shut off and the car stalls. After anywhere from 2 mins to 15 mins you will be able to restart the car and continue on your way. I am the only owner of the car. It has 83,000 miles on it. At this point it happens very randomly without warning. Usually about 3 or 4 times a month.
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I am purchasing a car on eBay which was stated to have the following problem: "the clutch is grabbing very very low it does not slip i think it is just the hydraulics? ". When I asked if I would need to have it serviced in order to drive it 1500 miles back home ( which in my mind meant an oil change), their response was that I would need to have the master cylinder replaced in order to drive it that far...
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I have a 96 prelude that wont stay in 5th gear cant even hold it in...
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1994 Honda Prelude has 1 out of the 4 brakes that are working. Only the driver side brake is working. I used a IR thermometer and after 30 min of city driving the driver side was at 200+ degrees. The 3 other wheels were at 40-48 degrees. What could be wrong?
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1994 Honda prelude vibration in steering wheel. When I drive the car on the highway there is an intermittent vibration through the steering wheel. It isn't speed sensitive. It is off and on even at the same speed. It will come in for about 5 min and then the car will drive vibration free even at the same speed. So I don't think it's a wheel weight. I checked the inner/outer tie rods, wheel bearing, ball joints and all are fine.
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My anti lock warning comes on after 1 mile of driving. If I test the anti lock on ice during the first mile the system works fine, around 1 mile the lamp lights.
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I got the car last fall so I don't know too much of the history. I will list the symptoms the best I can.-goes through about a quart of oil every 300 miles, looks to mostly come out the exhaust-seems to really blow smoke when the vtec activates-as the weather has gotten colder, it has been idling erratically until it warms up.-check engine light went on today-when accelerating from stop engine stutters briefly (this started when light came on)-warm idle speed now seems to be over 1000 rpm....
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My 2001 Prelude (not SH) develops a vibration felt throughout the car and particularly the steering wheel after several minutes of constant highway (60 - 75 MPH) speed travel. Thought it might be a brake caliper sticking, but the car does not pull left or right. After 7 or 8 minutes of vibration, it stops and the ride is smooth as glass.
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1984 prelude...1.8l .... I have posted previously on this vehicle and I have had some "success". The car will run with the support of starting fluid but will only stay running if the engine is kept at 2500 rpms or higher. If you let off the gas, it will bog out and die. Starting it requires another shot of starting fluid and a foot on the gas.
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I have a 5.0L with around 144k mileage. I noticed a reasonably severe leak of anti-freeze the day after I had the oil changed at a shop (coincidentally?); nothing out of the ordinary on that day. The temp's have never showed as being beyond normal. I saw that there was a bit of weeping from the water pump, so changed that believing that the gaskets might be the real culprit (third pump on this truck). I re-filled the system with fluid (green silicate as the system had been modified several years back), ran the engine, and found that there is still a leak, not as severe, but most definitely bad. It honestly appears to be dripping at the oil pan gasket, just left of the crank on the lower end. The location doesn't really seem logical to me.
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I have a 2001 E350 van with the 4R100 Transmission. It had a severe and sudden leak develop in the trans cooler. The driver noted trouble getting the vehicle into gear, into reverse, but ultimately drove it about 25 miles until it stopped unable to go up a hill. Once stopped, the leaking fluid was obvious from smoke & fluid over the back of the vehicle.
It was towed to a local shop (not a transmission shop). They put 9 quarts of fluid in and started the engine hoping to see the transmission functional but only leaking from the cooler. Instead they found it not operational and no fluid coming from the leak. They assume the pump is ruined to the point of not pumping fluid at all.
Is it likely that the front pump is the only damage? Can I pull the unit swap the pump & put it back in service? What else (if more damage is likely) would a transmission repair shop find? What about a used transmission?
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I was searching for an oil leak forever. In my search for the leak I resealed my hpop, redid oilcooler rings and last week had a friend pull my motor to redo the pan gasket. The leaks were almost down to where I thought we had them beat. Now in the last couple days I'm losing coolant and oil....bad. there is oil on the ground mostly from the cross member. Question is did my oil cooler fix not take? I have read that a nicked of ring can cause this.
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I have an 04 ford explorer, with severe coolant leakage. I am far from an expert but it seems like it's coming from the center engine block, but I can't get much access in to tell. What's going on?
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I have a 97 Honda Accord with V Tec engine, 2.2L. I have an oil leak that is coming from BEHIND the timing belt cover. I removed the cover and the belts to expose several seals. The oil leak is quite extensive and leaves a good puddle after running the engine, however, it will not leak once I clean up the mess, put the car up on jack stands and disassemble the engine. I cannot tell which seal is leaking and am wondering how to tell which seal is leaking. Is there a way to apply pressure to the engine with air, possibly through the oil dipstick hole to possibly expose the leaking seal?
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Recently had a new water pump and radiator put in my car. Not so sure if they are "new" but anyway.
The car does not seem to use coolant it has only slowly flowed back into the reserve tank over time spilling over a little.
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I have an '04 Ranger Edge 3.0 with a severe coolant leak. It appears to be coming from the area where the head/water pump housing meet. I have been told I've lost the seal behind the pump on the timing cover. Is there any way to know for sure? Will I be able to tell, once the pump is out that it isn't coming from the head side? Are there any "special" instructions for re-sealing after replacing pump?
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I just received this car as a freebie but it has come with an issue or two. The most pressing is a cooling issue. They gave it to me with the words, "The radiator leaks". Upon some testing this doesn't seem to be the whole picture.
1) If I fill the radiator up, leave the car parked over night, the next morning the radiator is still full. so I assume it is leaking from steam venting or from something else.
2) The car overheats very fast when the AC is on and the vehicle is stopped. Within about 10 minutes it went through every drop in the radiator.
3) When driving with the AC fan on medium speed, it can go a solid 30-45 minutes with no issue.
4) If I turn the AC fan on to high it takes a matter of minutes for it to begin to over heat.
A friend mentioned something about a weeper valve? I know very little about cars. So if there was any insight as to what it may be that would be excellent.
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I have a 97 accord that i am having issues with. When I turn the key it does not crank luckily it is manual tranny so i jump start it. the battery is good i also put new terminals thinking those were the issue but still having problems.
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Last night we noticed that the main brake lights (not the CHMSL) on our 1997 Accord sedan wouldn't turn off. I tapped and released the brake pedal to make sure it wasn't stuck. Changed gears through drive, reverse, and park. The lights were continually lit, even after the car was shut off. I didn't want them to drain the battery, so I removed the bulbs (boy, were they HOT) and the car is now grounded temporarily.When I pulled the bulbs, I saw a warning light on the dash come on. I red bar near the bottom of the (non-working) speedometer that says Brake Lights or something. I think it's short hand for "Hey you idiot! Put the brake light bulbs back in!"So at least it knows the circuit is broken. So, the question is, what caused this,and how do I fix it without taking it to the dealership?
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