Honda - Pilot Cargo :: 2003 - Hatch Lock Screws Fell Out
Jul 6, 2014
The lock in the cargo hatch of my 2003 Honda Pilot is loose and wobbles around -- you have to really slam the door hard to get it to engage, and it rattles. I went to Autozone and showed it to them, and the guy pulled the trim molding out slightly and retrieved two short screws with large flat heads. Said I needed to remove the trim panel and put the screws back in. So -- how do I remove the trim panel so I can do this? Do I need specialized tools, and is this something I can do myself?
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My wife's 2012 Pilot EX-L has developed an odd problem. Occasionally the front passenger door will fail to unlock when I use ether the door panel unlock button or the FOB. I figured it was a bad actuator and I was going to fix it next weekend, but today I noticed that when the issue happens the rear trunk also fails to unlock. It seems odd to me to have 2 different actuators go bad together, and really odd to have them both be intermittent and in sync. What else could this be?
I have noticed when it rain really hard water gets into the back door hatch through the screw holes for the license plate. That could be related, or it could be a red herring.
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So I bought a 2005 Honda Pilot which came with 2 keys. The main key has a remote battery (which is dead) and a spare key. Because the battery is dead, we must manually unlock the car door each time we get in. A month ago or so I noticed that the main key was having trouble going in the driver's side door. It would go about half way in and jam. I would try 5-10 times and then eventually it'd go in and turn fine. Sometimes I'd go to the passenger door where it would open with no problem.
We started having the same problem with the key in the ignition, where it would take several times to get the key in the ignition, once in, it would turn fine. At this point, we switched to the passenger key, as we are really tight in the money dept (aren't we all?), and didn't want to pay much money for a slight inconvenience.
Unfortunately we're not having the same trouble with the spare key in the ignition. 5-10 times before it will go in, once in, it starts fine. The main key is still tough on the driver door. The only thing I can think of is it's the keys and the ignition, as it doesn't make sense that it's limited to one or the other since we have problems with both keys..
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I have a 2003 pilot with 182k miles on it. Just started having tranny slippage after a tranny code and burnt fluid. Changed it and did this for like the next 3000 miles. It began to start slipping between 2,3 so did a complete flush with new fluid and still same problem. Question is should I pursue the new tranny with upgrades or just look for another vehicle.
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I have a 2003 Honda Pilot with 117,947 miles on it. When I reach 40 mph there is a shuttering sound that vibrates through the front floor boards. Took it to a Honda dealer and they could not duplicate the issue. It happened intermittently. Does not appear to be related to outside temperature or level of gas in tank. What the issue may be for the shuttering?
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Problem: About 10 minutes after driving, the heat starts to blow out of the upper vents when the a/c is on automatic. The heat comes out even if the outdoor temperature is mild (55 – 70 degrees Fahrenheit) and the cabin temperature is warm, which heats up the SUV quickly making it very uncomfortable. Turning the a/c off tends to somewhat solve the problem some of the time, however, occasionally hot air creeps through the vents even with the a/c off. The a/c often makes a gurgling sound whether it is on or off. I noticed today (2/3/12) that the back vents are not affected by the problem, so the very warm air is only coming from the front upper vents.
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Had my 2003 7.3X for a couple months now. Noticed the back hatch will not lock. Hatch will not lock when you push the lock button on the door or the remote.
The second issue is that my ignition key (the only one I got with car) does not turn the lock on the hatch.
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About a year ago I put in a new lock motor and it worked fine for a while but has stopped working. Is it the lock motor or something else? It unlocks but won't lock. There is not latch indicator on the upper hatch so it stayed unlocked without me knowing it.
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my moms 2004 touareg's switch to lock/unlock got pushed through and is in the door now i'm wondering what you have to remove to get where it would've fallen and how to get it off i've tried to snap it out but i don't want to pull it too hard and break anything else. also how do i get it back in position once i get to it
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Our 2003 Honda Pilot with 130K miles recently developed a front end Knock/rattle, which is sustained at about 70 miles per hour. Dealer "couldn't hear the noise". Tried new tires per dealer suggestion- fail! Recently we towed our 2100 lb pop up with it, and it was MUCH louder, and of course sustained at lower speed. Should we even be towing a pop up with a vehicle that has this many miles on it?
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Over the past few months I have been hearing a low sounding vibration that seems to be coming from the drivers side front. It only seems to happen when I am driving on a straight road, but not on the highway. Recently, I have been hearing the sound more frequently and within the last month the front end has been shaking. I took it to a mechanic and he told me that the front sway bar links were broken and the rotors were warped. He said replacing both of these (and the front brake pads) would eliminate both problems. $700 later and not 5 minutes down the road, the low sounding vibration came back! I've been paying attention to when I hear it and it happens on a straight road just as I am approaching 40 mph.
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My 2004 Honda Pilot was leaking oil recently. Diagnosis was problem with rear main seal. I took it to a transmission shop. They replaced the rear main seal and the front motor mount. Within 24 hrs of this repair, I started hearing creaking. I hear the noise when I go to straighten out the wheel after turning a corner.
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I will describe as best as I can. You know when you drive over the rumble strip on the edge of the highway, this is exactly how the car feels. The vehicle was well maintained and I'm the original owner. A little history, I was rear ended a few years ago multi car accident and I was the first vehicle the Mercedes C300 behind me was totaled. I only felt a little bump to be honest. The rear bumper had some damage as well as the quarter panel and a flat tire but no damage to the rim.
I think a short time after is when this started but not right after. I'm thinking that the rear diff was damaged, but I'm not sure how the car feels or what does it do when the diff is going bad. The oil in the diff was changed every 30k. The engine and the transmission seem to be fine. This shudder hits around 40 and sometimes at 60 and it is an awful shake and when I let off on the gas it goes away and sometimes comes right back. Some days it doesn't do it and then some days a lot.
Also, the tires and brakes are new.
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lots of hesitation upon acceleration..used fuel cleaner several times doesn't work ..what would cause this hesitation ?
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My honda pilot has 95,000 miles on it and was just serviced a month before I took a trip. It was driving fine and the engine started getting hot. It died as I drove down the exit ramp and the oil light came on just as it died. After towing it to the shop they found white goo in the radiator. See attached photo. They assumed there was a leak with transmission fluid or oil mixing in the radiator. The oil was empty and the transmission fluid was full and clean. When they replaced my motor and radiator they did not find any cracks or area where a leak had occurred. Everyone is puzzled.
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While my wife was driving tonight the VSA light went on, the emergency brake light went on, and the "D" for drive was flashing green. She stopped the car and called me. One the Car was in park, it would not go back into the Drive, and it continued to flash green. I've tried pulling fuses, disconnecting the battery. The other issue is that The hazard lights will not work and the turning blinker will not function. I have determined its an electrical issue. Other than that I'm clueless.
I popped the button just below port just below the shifter and manually put in drive and drove it home.
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I needed to replace the same (rear) catalytic converter of my 2006 Honda Pilot LX (2WD) in less than 16 months. The first time it happened in October 2014 when the vehicle had 160K miles (Car's service code was P0420), and the second time it happened this month (same code P0420), when the vehicle had 184K miles. I have it replaced at Honda Service both times.
When it happened for a second time so quick (160k miles wth first converter vs 24K miles with the second converter), I asked Honda Service for a free warranty replacement, but they said it only has 12K miles, and 12 month warranty on repairs, they called Honda corporate to see if they would do anything extra (they did not), but Lute Riley gave a discount to do it at their part & labor cost only ($800 first time vs $550 second time).
What could be the cause of the second catalytic converter to go bad so quick? I have been the owner and only driver of the vehicle since i purchased it new and my driving habits have not changed.
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Whenever my 2004 Honda Pilot gets stuck in traffic, I have to switch it into a lower gear in order to resume forward. Automatic transmission. It's a rebuilt trans that has 60K on it. Transmission fluids at right levels and recently flushed. The car mileage is 198K. I don't have the issue with normal highway and local driving. It is only when I am stuck in traffic.
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Having lived through this scenario, I can only relate what happened to me. The transmission fluid/antifreeze mixture (which was a frothy pink color) was forced out of the overflow tank on the radiator, and the car drove a few miles before there was no more fluid in the transmission and the car stopped moving. We replaced the radiator and flushed it a couple of times to try and get out the transmission fluid, and I did a drain and fill on the transmission every week for a few months to try and get out the antifreeze, since I heard it is very corrosive to the seals in the transmission. So far, I have not had to replace the transmission. This happened on a 2005 Honda Pilot, and it would appear that the transmission is built from the tears of unicorns, stardust, and unobtainium, given the price to replace it.
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What the heck caused this? Something melted through the license plate holder, then through the plastic of the bumper, down to the metal body. A week ago I had the timing belt, plugs and water pump replaced by my mechanic here in Orlando. I didn't notice anything when I picked it up but I didn't really do a visual inspection of the front of the car either since it was parked facing a fence when I picked it up. Since then it has been driven by my wife to work 3 times. While there, she parks against and facing her building with only a row of shrubs in front of her. And at home it's parked in our garage with about a distance of 3 feet from the washing machine. I asked at my repair shop and they said they had no idea what could have caused this other than a diesel truck, however there is no residue typical of a diesel exhaust.
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I have a 2007 Honda Pilot. The low tire pressure indicator and the tire pressure monitoring system indicate that I need air in my right front tire. I have had this professionally checked and my tire pressure is accurate. Do I need to get this fixed or will it do any damage if I leave these indicators as they are?
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