Honda - Odyssey :: Transmission Started To Slip When Putting Car Into Drive
Apr 6, 2013
I have a Honda Odyssey with 154000 miles on it. In February it started to slip when putting it into drive. I thought this was due to the cold snap. The slip/delay grew until it would disengage from gear when driving. Eventually it was not safe to drive and I had it towed to a transmission shop. They have replaced the TCU, the torque converter arm & the transmission & the ring kit. He has told me that he won't charge more than he originally quoted me, but when I went out there yesterday nothing had changed (it was still on the lift with the exhaust & undercarriage on the floor) since two days prior when he told me it would be done on Friday. Do I have any recourse, and how do I make him finish this job?
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Recently the check engine light has started coming on every time I drive on the highway. At approximately the 5th mile of my ride, the light comes on but I cannot detect any symptoms, the car runs great. This rarely if ever happens when driving in the city, only on the interstate. My car is too old to be hooked up to the fancy diagnostic machine. What I should check to resolve this problem? 1995 Honda Odyssey with 279,000+.....
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I am a new driver and I made the following mistake twice.
Twice over the last month, after street parallel parking, engaging the foot parking brake, turning off and exiting the car, I noticed the spacing from the front and back car is a bit off so I went back inside the car to move the car slightly.
However, I forgot to disengage the parking brake first, so I put the car into R, and when the car did not move, I tapped on the accelerator. Only then did I remember to disengage the parking brake.
If I just tapped on the accelerator slightly, does it damage my car? I haven't noticed any problems yet, but I feel terrible about the screw ups.
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220,000 miles, auto transmission slip in drive, reverse ok. What needs to be fixed and what will it cost?
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I have a 1995 Honda Odyssey with 190,000 miles. When I turn on the a/c after about 10 minutes the drive light blinks and the speedometer stops working and the odometer stop working also. So I have been unhooking the battery and it resets everything and the light works as well as the speedometer and odometer. I have about 2,000 miles on a new cylinder head and timing belt water pump, and battery and cables, which was quite expensive and I am wondering if its worth even fixing but there is absolutely no rust and I love the vehicle 28 mpg mini van can't beat.
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I have an interesting automatic transmission problem. Hot or cold makes NO difference. When the car is started, put in reverse it will work perfectly 100% of the time. When the car is started, put in Drive the transmission will slip for about 5-10 seconds before working perfectly. When the car is started, if you wait 3-5 minutes, then put it in Drive it will work perfectly.
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2007 Honda Odyssey. 105,000. Temperature about 0. 6 hour drive. About 15 minutes from destination, no heat, car starts blowing cold air. Temperature gauge still registers in normal range. Arrive at destination. Later that night, drove about 15 minutes to local ER, and drove back from ER about 2 hours later. No heat, but car otherwise fine. Next day (happened to be Christmas Day), begin drive home. Drive a little more than 15 minutes (about a minute passed the hospital), stopped at a stop light. Car stalls and dies. Restarts, but immediately temperature gauge shoots way paste "H" in a bad way.
Over the next day, local mechanic (in Petoskey MI) checks car, says it is low two gallons of coolant. He says radiator leaks, but he has no radiators there. Everything else works fine, and he says it is safe to drive back to Chicago, as long as I stop to check coolant. Drive home to Chicago, no leakage. Everything works fine. Get home, take car to local Honda dealer. They do "pressure test." Find no leak. Head Gaskets are fine. They see evidence of massive coolant leak (dried coolant all over catalytic converter closest to radiator, and over lower portion of radiator) but find no leak, and coolant level is fine. No sign of any leaks at top of radiator. So, what gives? Car is since running fine, no leaks. Everything works. Still driving in extreme weather in Chicago. Coolant level normal.
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I bought a 2002 camry last month. It has 180k on it, and the previous owner says he never had the trans fluid changed.
It started to slip, so I parked it and I had it towed to a trans shop. Of course, they immediately say I need a trans rebuild.
My house was close, so I drove it home without any issues.
What are the chances that a fluid change will correct this for a little while atleast?
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I have a new issue that started last Friday. When I put the truck in gear and let it begin to pull itself, drive or reverse, it has a strange jerking or slipping deal. It doesn't happen every time but when it does you can feel it in the drivetrain. I took it to the shop that did the motor work and they ran a diagnosis(while I watched) on the motor and its turns up nothing. It runs perfect, shifts like it always has, but just has this jerking/slipping thing when I let off the brake and it starts to pull itself.
If I go from brake to throttle its fine. I had the rearend diff worked on to fix the leaky ring and pinion seal and the differential cover sealed at the dealer last month. I searched and don't see anything like what I am experiencing. Could my tranny be giving it up now? It has never been overworked and never overheated. I had the full fluid service done at about 70k and now it has about 130k on it.
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I have a 2007 Honda Odyssey touring model. Recently I had it serviced at the Honda dealership. In addition to my requested front end alignment and oil and filter change, they talked me into a radiator flush, fuel inj. service, air filter replacements and battery service. I drove the car home after wards even filling up with gas before going home. This drive was about 55 miles. I never noticed any problems. The next day, I left for Montghomery AL towing a trailer with a motorcycle trike on it. We stopped for lunch and continued. The car suddenly started making a grinding noise from engine compartment and suddenly white smoke started coming out from the hood. I immediately pulled over and we got out of the car for fear of fire. This was the first time I had any indication of a problem.
After a short time, I opened the hood to see what was wrong and noticed that the radiator cap was sitting upside down next to opening. I had the vehicle towed to Chattanooga where I was told there was serious damage to the engine. I had them repair it (they were an AAA approved towing and repair shop). I also took pictures of the engine compartment. I went back to the dealership and asked to be reembursed for my expenses and the cost of repairs and the owner refused. He said he didn't believe they left the cap off and since he started out in the service department he didn't believe the car could even go that far without overheating. My question is: Is it possible for a 2007 Honda Odyssey to travel approximately 220 miles over two days before overheating and wrecking the engine if the radiator cap was left off and/or if no fluid was even added and the radiator cap was left off?
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1995 C1500 Suburban (diesel) ... Felt like the transmission started to slip. And then it slowly started to "idle down while driving". thought maybe out of fuel, so i filled it up. When i turned out of the Gas station it died. about 20 minutes later, it started up but still didn't seem to run at full strength. No engine lights on or anything, light all still worked fine, just the engine shut off on me.
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I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey. I got the timing belt replaced two weeks ago.Last week the engine started making a quiet clicking noise upon acceleration. The clicking noise happens intermittently not continuously. Then last night the yellow engine light came on. Questions: What does the yellow engine light mean? Is the engine light related to the timing belt work that was done? Would the clicking noise be connected to the timing belt work?
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Our 2003 Odyssey had the transmission rebuilt last month after the original finally failed (215,000 miles). After the rebuild, third gear has a whine. (I don’t recall if it was there before the rebuild – it’s the wife’s ride, she wouldn't have noticed it anyway, and apparently I didn't either). The whine pitch varies with RPM, and is louder if the transmission is under a load. Going up a hill with the accelerator depressed makes the whine louder – taking your foot off the accelerator quiets it. I have a warranty for two years on the rebuild, but before I go back and start asking them about the noise, I was wondering what would cause it? I am worried they didn’t rebuild everything and will just tell me the whine is “nothing to be concerned about.” The transmission shifts smoothly and appears to operate normally other than the whine in third gear under a load.
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For over 3 years, my 2001 Honda Odyssey transmission has had a whine, gradually increasing in volume. The pitch increases with speed, not RPMs because it continues to increase pitch when it shifts and reduces RPMs. There are no performance issues, and there are no error codes when hooked to the computer. The transmission was put in at 93,000, 80,000 miles ago. Had fluid flushed and replaced with no effect.
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We currently have a 2003 Honda odyssey with about 119K miles. About once a month the transmission does not want to change between 2nd and 3rd gear causing it to rev very high. The only resolution is take your foot off the gas until its back to an idle state. Now I have read that these transmissions suck and have a bunch of problems. We are driving long this summer and we need a new trans. Last year when we drove to NC the car started to buck and rev really high when on cruise control for awhile. not sure if its connected but it was not fun.
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We got this product called "Lucas Transmission Fix" to try to quell the hesitation of the transmission when shifting from 3rd to 4th gear. It claims to stop slips and do other things beneficial to the transmission. The car is a 2003 Honda Odyssey. Is this product safe to use on this car? Is there the possibility that it would make the hesitation worse?
Some background information on the car:
- We bought it used last September with 137,000 miles. There are now 150,000 miles.
- Soon after we bought it, we changed the transmission fluid with Honda AFT DW
- 1 because it was slipping from 1st to 2nd gear
- After the fluid change, it started to slip from 3rd to 4th gear instead. Or maybe it was my imagination that it was slipping from 1st to 2nd before?
- The slippage is a lot more severe in cold weather / when the engine is cold
- In my last post about the Odyssey's transmission slip, some people suggested that the EGR valve be replaced. That has not been done.
- The spark plugs were changed last month. The old spark plugs were Denso, the new ones NGK-All maintenance is up to date
- The car is in good running condition other than the transmission slippage and an odd engine vibration somewhere between 1000 and 2000 RPM
- The dealer discovered oil leaks from oil filter housing gasket and rear main seal during the last oil change in mid-February. It must be a pretty small leak.
- A recall for the ignition interlock mechanism was done sometime in March
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For a few years now, in cold weather, when starting my 2000 Honda Odyssey the TCS light will stay on and the transmission will not shift out of low gears. I can drive in reverse just fine, but when I try shifting to drive, the "D" drive indicator does not light up and it will only drive in what seems to be first gear. However, when sufficiently warmed up, I can restart the engine, the TCS light goes out, and everything's normal. The warm up time varies from 5 to 10 mins or more, and is unpredictably annoying. I went to a dealer last year and they didn't seem to have a clue. Is it just a matter of a bad sensor?
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My 1995 honda passport ran great until a couple of weeks ago. I moved to North Carolina, and it sat for a few days as I was unpacking. When I started it back up, sometimes when I hit the brake, the lights on the middle dash come on for a split second, then go off. Also, my winter and power drive buttons don't work (anymore). As of yesterday, the lights didn't come on when I hit the brake, but it started hesitating when I started to drive.
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I was towing my 20' boat and had a 4000 lb camper on back going up a grade in 85-90 degree heat when the tranny started dumping fluid. Got to the top and let it rest for 2-3 hours and refilled and was fine for the rest of the trip. This happened last summer. Truck is only driven about 1000 miles a year. I believe this is the E40D.
This year it will run smooth until after about 20 miles and then begins slipping in Drive and OD. Seems to work fine in 1 and 2. It shifts very hard and runs higher rpms before doing so. Slipping then seems to be sporadic and may not slip for quite awhile but it still shifts very hard.
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1991 Honda Auto trans, 247k miles. We now have the third transmission in the car and it still does not shift into over-drive-4th. Odds seem poor that all 3 were actually bad.What now?
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One day I was driving my truck 96 f150 4x4 Eddie Bauer edition and the over drive light started flashing and the truck got jerky going up hills. I got home and hooked my code reader up and (p0708) it said transmission range sensor. I replaced that the next day and drove it around town for about 30 minutes and parked it all seemed to good. But the very next day I started down the road and the transmission was slipping very bad after I turned around after a few hundred feet I barley made it back to my house. I checked my transmission fluid it's full and doesn't smell burnt or anything, I double checked the alignment on the neutral safety switch I just installed and it still in line. So I'm thinking my transmission is going out...
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