Passat (B5) :: 2000 1.8t Won't Start After Filling Gas Tank
Nov 29, 2007
Every time I go to fill up my gas tank it has trouble starting. It doesn't matter whether I use 91 89 or some other premium fuel. I have to crank it 4-6 times for about 6 seconds each time and then at the end of the last crank it will barely start. It will idle kinda rough for about 10 seconds and then until I go to fill up the gas tank it will run flawlessly, 27-31 mpg depending on driving style, starts up right away with out filling up the tank. The only other issue I have is an "emissions workshop" every time I start the car but I think that's just because of a bad check valve the I'm throwing a code for.
The car in question : VR6T 4 door 1996 golf
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I have a hyundai accent, 2002, I have the typical hard to start when filling up the tank. My understanding is there are 2 Fuel Vapor Purge Valves, one in the rear next to the charcoal canister, the other is in the engine compartment attached to the intake manifold - is that correct?
Which purge valve is the culprit to the hard start after fueling the car? Why can I only find the rear purge valve when looking for parts - is the one up front a dealer only part?
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Recently, my Accent has been acting up (twice) while filling the tank. I haven't done any work on it that would cause this recently, but while fueling, the pump will click and stop repeatedly, as if the tank was full. It takes sometimes 20 minutes just to put 8 gallons in it. I've tried two separate pumps. Next fill-up, I'll try a different gas station because I've heard that can sometimes be a problem. They said their pumps weren't empty so that's not the case.
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Having an issue with my 03' Accent. I'm having an issue of my coolant tank filling up but it is not being drawn back into the radiator when the engine cools down. I have replaced the radiator with a new unit because the filler neck of the original radiator was damaged sometime in the past and the cap would not seal good enough to hold pressure . Looks like heat damage to me but I don't know for sure. The system now holds pressure but now I'm having the current issue. My first thought was a head gasket issue creating pressure in the system and forcing coolant into the tank.
The car has 155k miles and runs good overall and is not overheating. I performed a "block check" test using the chemical method that detects combustion gasses in the cooling system and that test was negative. I also pressure tested the system by pressurizing to 16 psi and was unable to detect any leaks anywhere on the engine / radiator and the pressure did not drop until I released it. I guess the next thing to try will be a compression test to see if I have any low cylinders. So, for whatever reason my cooling system is not creating enough of a vacuum to draw the coolant back into the radiator when it cools down. Does this sound like a head gasket issue? The pic is of the original radiator filler neck damage.
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The leak only happens when filled more than 3/4 of a tank. It appears that the leak is coming from a hose or hose fitting to the right of the opening on top of the tank,under the driver's side rear seat. So far I have only been able to drop the tank about 2 inches.
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For several years my husbands car "chugs" and barely starts after filling up at the gas station. Once it starts it is good to go but it takes many cranks and pumping of the peddle to get it going. If you put gas in it with a gas can it doesn't have the problem so guess it may have to do with the pressure of gas going in from the pump?!. We have spent over 1500.00 when it first started to no avail...
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I have a 2003 hyundai accent gt 1.6v runs great other than when I get gas. As soon as I fill my tank the car doesn't want to start. It cranks turns over idles very low and then dies. I have to try to start it about 3 times before it will stay running. Starts perfectly fine in hot or cold weather only has problems right after filling gas tank. Started about a week ago. What could be the problem?
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I have a problem with the starting system on my 2002 Camry LE 4-cylinder. My problem started a few weeks ago. I drove it to the store, about five miles away, did my shopping, got back in the car, started it up and drove back toward home but stopped again to get gasoline. After filling the tank, the car wouldn't start. I turned the key but nothing happened. No noise, nothing. The starter motor wasn't turning over the engine. Thinking back, when I started my trip, the starting seemed a little weak but the car was sitting for a few days and it was cold out so I didn't make too much of that symptom.
So over the next half an hour, I tried starting it a few more times but got nothing but silence. So I called for a tow and $150 later I had my car back home. I put a load tester on the battery and it checked out fine. So I eliminated that part of the starting system being a problem. The next day, just out of curiosity, I tried starting it again and it fired up right away. The motor ran fine and I let it warm up for a while but I didn't go anywhere. I repeated this same procedure a few times over the past couple of weeks and each time the motor started up but again, I didn't chance going anywhere. However since I had some other maintenance projects I needed to get done on it and my wife has a 2014 Camry, having the 2002 out of service was inconvenient, but not an emergency.
So yesterday, with my maintenance projects done, I took the 2002 for a little test ride. Once again, it started up without a problem and I took my ride around the block. When I got home, I shut the motor off and went inside to grab a few tools. I came back outside, tried starting up the motor and got nothing. No start and no sound but the slight hum of the electric fuel pump. I tried a few more times with no success and then gave up for the evening. This morning, right before taking the other car to work, I tried starting it again just out of curiosity and once again, the motor fired right away. So this sequence of events tells me that something in the starting system is being impacted by heat when the motor is warm and when things cool down, they're fine.....at least for now.
I'm thinking the solenoid-starter may be going because I've had starters on other vehicles affected by heat before.
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My wife's 2007 Accent started having starting problems right after filling the tank. Is this an EVAP canister problem?
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We had a Hyundai with the same problem. Every time my nephew fills the tank when he goes to start it he has to gun the engine and it takes several attempts to start. Mechanic changed some fitting but it didn't do the trick. Only happens after tank is filled. Other than that car runs fine. Only 45k miles.
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I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent hatchback with 98k miles. About a month ago we were headed out of town and got gas about a mile away from the house. After filling up, the car wouldn't start. It would crank but not fire. Tried for about 15mins to no avail. Had it towed to local mechanic and it started right away. They kept it for the weekend and said they had no problems starting it, so without experiencing the problem they said they would just be throwing parts at it.
About 2 weeks after my wife drove to store and when she went to leave and same experience, but this time it started after trying for a couple of mins. Then just this Tuesday it wouldn't start in the morning. When it just cranks but not fire it shows a pending P0335 (crankshaft position sensor). So I ordered the part (won't arrive til Friday). When I got home I tried to start it as well to no avail; tried again Wednesday morning and evening, nothing. Then this morning (Thursday) it starts right up. Once its started it runs great. After recurrence of no start 2 weeks ago, I replaced spark plugs and spark plug wires.
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My CEL came on today, gas level was a little under a quarter tank.
Took it to Advanced on the way home to have them scan it quick, and it threw a fuel pressure regulator code. I stopped in the gas station on the way home and filled it up, and the CEL was gone and hasn't been on since. I'm thinking HPFP, but maybe not? Could it be injectors?
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I filled my 2010 Prius IV. Every day since, my indicated MPG has gone up about one MPG, with my 40 mile round trip to work.
I had been running around 46-48 MPG indicated this winter. Next day it was up over 50. Yesterday 52, today it is up to 53 mpg and I have used 1/2 tank on 256 miles, which is much better than my winter stats.
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How many miles does it say you can drive after you fill up? Mine says 334 and that's what I'm getting. I want to hit 400 for a tank and can't.
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Normally when I fill my fuel tank, of course the car is off/not running. And once it is full and I get I'm the car then start it, the "Cruising Range" read out has always read about 403 mi.
Right after the recall was done, it read about 420 mi. if I recall correctly, but in the next fill up or two, it's remained at 403/404 mi.
However, today when I filled up and got in the car, the cruising range read 387 mi.
The tank was between 1/4 and 1/2 full before fill up.
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I'm not topping off or overfilling, I pull the nozzle out once the I get the 1st click/cut off whatever from gas pump nozzle once the tank is full and don't put in any extra. It doesn't do this right away (Power loss)... waits until I shut the car off for the day (after a fuel refill) and then the next day I'm driving along and for 20-30 minutes I get random complete loss of power. I don't think it's an ignition issue because it only happens when I fill the tank, but it sure feels like it. It's almost like that bad coil pack feeling. I don't know how else to explain it, just stops accelerating/cruising for a half of a second maybe once every minute or two for about 30 minutes, then it never happens again until i fill the tank.
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I have a 2012 Prius 3 that's about 1 1/2 months old with about 1,500 miles. I remember when it had 3 miles and the dealer filled it up it showed a 600+ mile range. Since then I've had a few fill ups where I've gotten it down to about 20-40 miles left in the range and when I fill it up it's only filling up with just under 10 gallons and showing a range of about 475 miles. If I remember correctly the fuel tank is 12.9 gallons so I feel like I'm not filling up to those last two gallons. Not sure what's going on.
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First time I've filled the car up and getting a gas smell while driving. I checked the gas cap and it's on.
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Well, just got back from my dealer - had them check into why after driving approximately 20 miles my fuel gauge registers 3/4 full. They said it has nothing to do with the cluster gauge everything checks out as accurate. My vehicle had the ECU 293 update applied at production. According to them is it because there is something preventing my fuel tank from filling all the way up. According to the service rep when the pump clicks off, my fill up is about 3-5 gallons short.
When I took delivery of the vehicle I noticed that the distance for the remaining (full) tank of gas read around 384. I've never seen that number again. Now when I do a fill up the best tops out at 310 or so. Where exactly did my 70+ additional miles until empty go?
They opened a case for my vehicle with Hyundai and said that Hyundai is already aware of this problem and they are working on a repair.
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2007 Hyundai Santa Fe is currently stranded 4 hours away from home. The gas tank was 1/4 full and they filled up the gas tank and drove 4 miles down the thruway and then the car starting acting funny and stalled. Now when they try to start the car the car it dies after a few seconds. Of course it's Memorial Day weekend too.
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We have been having an issue with our gas tank not filling up continuously for over three years. It automatically trips the gas shut of switch every couple of seconds so it can take a while to fill up. Then every once in a while it fills up totally normally.
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