Honda - Odyssey :: 2004 - Complete Power Loss To Driver Side Window And Sliding Door
Nov 23, 2013
About 3 days ago there was a complete power loss to the Driver Side Window and Sliding Door. Checked both fuse panels and everything looked good. Is there a relay that controls the entire driver side? There's no whining or noise at all when you push the buttons. Just complete loss of power. If you press the button for the passenger window on the driver door, everything works. So its not that the driver side door as a whole has problems.
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A couple of weeks ago our 2007 Odyssey started having door issues - driver's side sliding door would get about 85% closed (approx 6 inches from closed) then beep and reverse back open. Wife took it to the dealership and they said the rollers were dead and it would be $400 to repair them. Suggested we wait till it got bad. A week later on the cape, it got bad -- doors were getting really stuck, even in manual.
I replaced the roller assy on the door (the rollers were GONE!) and it now operates manually just fine now. I'm left with the following issues:- Door still won't close during automatic operation. Gets 80% closed then beeps and reverses closed.- Door doesn't open automatically during operation from the key FOB or the driver's control panel on the console. (I hear an actuator running when I press the buttons, just no obvious release). The door auto-opens fine from all other modes (inside lever, outside handle).
I've tried multiple "door reset" routines to no avail -- not sure if I have the correct "routine" for my '07 EX, or if something else is in play.
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We have had this problem for about two years now. We finally took the car to the dealership and they, without being able to duplicate it, recommended to change the sliding door roller for the price tag of $375. We did and it did not fix the problem. We took it back few times and the popping noise did not take place while there and left the dealership without a solution. We finally took it back today armed with a video on my iPhone displaying the problem (popping audio included). We left it with them and lo and behold they said that they were now able to duplicate the problem and they are able to fix it by replacing not two but three latches.
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My own this Honda Odyssey since 2008. I found this strange problem when I drove it from Tuscon to Phoenix during a Windy day, it was making kind of Howling Screeching noise at the Drivers window. then it went away. Then I realized it happens only when the Wind is blowing at a specific Angle and when the Van is at some high speed.
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2007 Honda Odyssey with power sliding rear doors. One door (pass side) skips when closing, but only when the van is pointing down hit. Seems to work ok when van is level or pointing uphill. Skipping - the door starts closing, stutters, keeps going, 2-3 times. Usually the door closes, but sometimes it stops and reopens. Is this the motor or some other part/problem?
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What caused this. The attached pictures show what looks like melted plastic on the window frame to the right side rear passenger door. I noticed the damage after running errands one morning. What might have caused this? Any thing electrical inside the car or external?
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My driver side power window on my '05 Honda Pilot is not working. Checked all fuses and none are blown. At first I thought it may be the window regulator/motor. I got an new aftermarket regulator/motor set and connected it to the 6-pin control and power cable to test it prior to installation. It did move when I hit the switch. BUT the power window control unit (magic black box in driver side door) clicked when I try to use the failed driver side window. I understand that this control unit also controls the other windows and they all work just fine AND the control unit does NOT click when I lower/raise those other windows. Do I have a bad power window control unit? Is it suppose to click when I lower the driver side window (and not click with other windows)? Could it be something else? I did check the output voltage to the driver window regulator and it did not have the required 12 V to run the motor when switch is activated.
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This first occurred about 2 weeks ago, I had a complete loss of power when stepping on the gas pedal. The engine did not rev or anything, completely unresponsive and the car was just gliding. I've had loss of battery power in the past where the engine was still going, just straining hard, but this was not like it as now the engine was completely not responding either.
I can't recall if it was going up or downhill -- it was around time the incline changed in a freeway ramp that began up and then moves down. At first I thought it was me accidentally putting it on neutral as I have a habit of resting my hand on the shift knob, but putting it in/out of drive did not work initially but after the 2nd try everything was back to normal so I thought nothing of it afterwards.
But if happened again this morning, again on a hill transition, either right before the top of a hill or right as I was coming down it. This time I know I did not have my hand on the shift knob. It resolved itself about the same, I had to shift in/out of drive a few times and it worked fine again a few seconds later.
I've been good with maintenance and changing out everything that they recommended, and also did the IMA battery recall upgrade.
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My 2007 Honda Odyssey has problems with the A/C blower. When I turn the AC on, the vents have nice cold air coming from the passenger side if the car, but the driver side is warm. It's not until about 20 minutes in, that the drivers side finally cools to the right temperature. Both drivers side and passenger side temperatures are synced together at the same temperature on the dash panel. Why would this happen? Isn't there just one compressor and one blower mechanism??
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Passenger window won't function from the drivers door switch. Installed a new drivers door switch and it still doesn't work. The passenger window works fine from the passenger door switch.
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I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey with about 190k miles on it. About a year ago (175k), we had our Transmission replaced with a re-manufactured transmission from the Honda Dealer. Now almost a year later, we were driving home on the freeway (about 4 hrs of highway driving) when we smelled and saw smoke coming from our hood. No lights or indicators came on. We also started losing power and the RPMs were high.
We pulled over in a gas station and popped the hood. A guy who said he was a mechanic took a look and thought it was the radiator host leak...suggested we add water and limp the rest of the way home. We did this and had no issues for the remaining 40 minutes of driving. The next day we brought it to our normal mechanic (not a Honda dealer) and he said it was transmission fluid ...thought that the transmission fluid that was splattered all over our engine/hood/wheels.
When we took it to the honda dealer (since we were still under warranty for the Honda transmission), they looked at it, cleaned it up and ran tests. They are saying that other than being low 2 qts of Trans fluid, they don't see any leaks/problems with the transmission, even after test driving it. They are wondering if the transmission cap was not tight or left off, causing the fluid to overheat, etc (I'm sure it wasn't left off as we have been driving it for months since our last check up without issue).
They say they can't replace it under warranty unless they can confirm some issue in their diagnostic tests. How can we have 2 qts of transm fluid splatter all over our engine and there not be a problem they can diagnose? Did they not give it enough time (e.g 4 hr long distance drive) to heat up enough to replicate the problem? The question now is...is it safe to keep driving the van (after doing a transm flush) or are we just asking for trouble until the next episode? How can I convince the dealer that there is a problem and have the transmission replaced under warranty?
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As the title says, I have an intermittent issue with the power window in the driver's door. It always works, with the exception of when it gets really damp during the night. In that case when I get in the truck first thing, the window will go down, but not always up the first few tries.
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My passenger side power sliding door on my 2003 Olds Silhouette (147,000 miles) Occasionally will quit working. We can open it and close it manually and sometimes it will start working again, other times it won't work for several days and then all of a sudden it works again.
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So after 6 1/2 years, my original Panasonic battery died today morning. I used jump start to get to work and used the same method to take the car to Sears to replace with Diehard Platinum.
While driving back, after the battery replacement, I noticed that I couldn't use auto power window roll up or down on driver side (manual roll up/down worked). Other three windows won't even work. I checked the windows lock button and it wasn't in lock position.
I turned the ignition power off and turned on to ACC. Then I could able to roll driver side windows up/down in auto. However, other three windows remain nonoperational. I also noticed a small green light on the window is illuminated only for driver side.
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While sitting at the heliport waiting on the rain to stop I noticed my rear window is leaking right above the sliding window. I'm kinda worried about this while I'm offshore because I have a power sliding window and I don't want it to ruin anything that moves the window. Do these trucks have a problem with this and where do I start to look at to fix this?
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I have a 2004 camry with 107k miles. The power drivers window makes a pop when leaving the seal. I have cleaned out the track, lubricated with silicone spray, but this did not solve the problem.
When I put a little pressure on the top of the window with my hand it comes down fine without popping.
I am thinking it may be a track issue. It appears the window is shifting 1/4-1/2 " to the front just before it contacts the seal.
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Rolled it down yesterday. Won't roll back up. Without hitting any buttons, I hear a click in the door every 15 seconds or so. During these 15-20 seconds, when I hit the power window button, the door makes a clicking noise like it is trying to activate the motor, but nothing happens. Then it clicks, and for the next 15-20 seconds, no click, no noise, no matter how many times I hit the window switch. Then after the next click, I will hear a click again whenever i hit the button, and so on and so on, on and off every 15 seconds. I tried taking apart the switch box and checking the contacts. They were fine.
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I have a 2004 f250 superduty. I lost all electric to truck. No lights, radio, etc. Turn key and no click or dash lights. I put a charger directly to battery and nothing. Is there a main fuse in power line prior to the fuse box under the dash??
Also, right before this happened, I went to start my truck and my batteries were low, the truck turned over a few times, started dying, so I turned the key off, and the truck kept turning over on its own, as if the circuit remained closed for ignition due to low battery, and it turned over by itself until the battery was completely dead. But putting my battery charger on it now gives me no electric at all.
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I drive an '04 with about 86k. Shortly after I hit 85k i got into an accident that required both drivers side doors and the drivers window to be replaced. 2 weeks ago I noticed that my driver's window was excessively loud going up and slower to rise than the other windows. Upon closer inspection it seems that the rubber surround at the front part of the window gets bunched up requiring the motor to work harder to get the window all the way up. I fear that it is only a short time before the motor fails and the window becomes useless.
I plan to go back to the body shop and have them take a look at it. I am not fully sure if they caused the problem, my common sense tells me that the drivers window ought to be the first to fail, seeing as it gets used the most (garage tickets, drive throughs etc. But I am hesitant to replace the motor if the repairs were done improperly causing it to burn out). How much the motor runs? I am guessing that this will not be a cheap repair, but my hope is that the body shop will at least do the labor for free seeing as they replaced the window and the door and I now have this problem. I have to take the car back anyways, they replaced the fender and it is loose at the top.
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I have an issue with Prius 2005 driver side power window constantly making clicking sound even after turning off the Prius. All other power windows works, just the driver side is having this issue. This started happening after I changed the 12V battery for my Prius.
The window still rolls down and up but it's very slow and making even louder clicking sound while rolling down and up. Also an other thing that I noticed is that windows keep going down slowly by itself after it's been closed. Any clue as to what went wrong with my driver side power window ?
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My driver side power window on my '05 super crew f150 has stopped working. It rolled down maybe 3-4 inches or so and the stopped working and now will not go up or down. All of the other windows/locks/mirrors on the main switch work so I'm not sure if I should start with replacing the motor or try the switch first.
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