Honda - Odyssey :: 2001 - Car Goes Into High RPMs (about 3000) Before It Seems To Drop Into Gear
Jul 5, 2011
I had my Honda Odyssey transmission replaced 2 years ago. The past few months, in the first mile that I drive the car on streets in our neighborhood, the car goes into high RPMs (about 3000) before it seems to drop into gear. It does this 2 or 3 times then works fine after that. The "Check engine" light is now on all the time. Sometimes, the car does one other weird thing--the high RPMs end with the drive/D4 light flashing on and off like a blinker (even if I change gears to D3. When this happens, if I turn the ignition off it comes back on and seems to function fine. I have had it back to the shop that did the work about 4-5 times to get it right. I like the guys but each time they return it to me, the problem remains. I took a 2000 mile trip with it and with the exception of this persistent problem, the van worked fine.
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I have a '05 Honda odyssey that has recently started showing drop in rpms at approx 30MPH. At that speed, I see that RPM suddenly drops from 2500 to 2000, pressing on gas really hard, triggers downshifting of gears and everything comes back to normal. I suspect some issues with how gears are being shifted...
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I've noticed on first start up the RPMs go as high as 3000 for a couple of seconds and then drop to normal even at 68' degrees,is that normal? because if it is what will aspect when the temperature drops to 20 or even lower.It is a 2.5 liter 4.
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Twice in the past month my Honda Odyssey after driving for over an hour the RPMS go sky high and car only goes up to 5 miles an hour. The car can not go into reverse and steering is difficult. The air conditioning was on during both of these events.Upon having it towed to the Honda dealer both times, they could not find anything wrong with the car, it runs fine.They ran diagnostics both times and found nothing. The check engine light has never come on.The AC runs hot air until I put the temp as low as possible. Then I can adjust temperature. I have had all of the work done on the car at the same Honda dealership since purchase in 2005.
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I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey with about 190k miles on it. About a year ago (175k), we had our Transmission replaced with a re-manufactured transmission from the Honda Dealer. Now almost a year later, we were driving home on the freeway (about 4 hrs of highway driving) when we smelled and saw smoke coming from our hood. No lights or indicators came on. We also started losing power and the RPMs were high.
We pulled over in a gas station and popped the hood. A guy who said he was a mechanic took a look and thought it was the radiator host leak...suggested we add water and limp the rest of the way home. We did this and had no issues for the remaining 40 minutes of driving. The next day we brought it to our normal mechanic (not a Honda dealer) and he said it was transmission fluid ...thought that the transmission fluid that was splattered all over our engine/hood/wheels.
When we took it to the honda dealer (since we were still under warranty for the Honda transmission), they looked at it, cleaned it up and ran tests. They are saying that other than being low 2 qts of Trans fluid, they don't see any leaks/problems with the transmission, even after test driving it. They are wondering if the transmission cap was not tight or left off, causing the fluid to overheat, etc (I'm sure it wasn't left off as we have been driving it for months since our last check up without issue).
They say they can't replace it under warranty unless they can confirm some issue in their diagnostic tests. How can we have 2 qts of transm fluid splatter all over our engine and there not be a problem they can diagnose? Did they not give it enough time (e.g 4 hr long distance drive) to heat up enough to replicate the problem? The question now is...is it safe to keep driving the van (after doing a transm flush) or are we just asking for trouble until the next episode? How can I convince the dealer that there is a problem and have the transmission replaced under warranty?
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My car is a 2001 honda accord v6. It sat for 3 winter months. When I go to turn it on in the morning, the car will rev while idling. Jumping between 1000 and 3000 rpms. Why this might be happening?
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We currently have a 2003 Honda odyssey with about 119K miles. About once a month the transmission does not want to change between 2nd and 3rd gear causing it to rev very high. The only resolution is take your foot off the gas until its back to an idle state. Now I have read that these transmissions suck and have a bunch of problems. We are driving long this summer and we need a new trans. Last year when we drove to NC the car started to buck and rev really high when on cruise control for awhile. not sure if its connected but it was not fun.
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This has happened a few times now. First time at a stop light, and most recently while coming down a hill. All of my needles drop and I get no response from the engine, brakes and power steering work for a little while and then they cut out. I pull over to the side of the road, turn it off, sometimes it turns back on immediately, other times it will do the same thing needles go up and back down.
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I have had the Santa Fe back and forth to the garage no power. We where driving it and all a sudden dropped power can't rev motor over 3000 rpm. Garage said they fixed it with dry gas and more gasoline b/c it was "low" between 1/4 and empty?
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Have a 2001 CRV that is running really bad. It almost stalls when I put it in gear or even when the RPM's fall to idle. It is now throwing a p0172 code. I have a simple scan tool and verified the MAP reading and primary O2 voltages as suggested by the manual, both appeared to be normal. It seems all the symptoms point to valve clearance, however the valve were adjusted not 2000 miles ago by the dealer during the 150K service, and this issue has existed before and after that adjustment. I also cleaned the IAC screen with no changes.
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I have a golf mk4 1.8T AGU, about one week after i had my k04-023 turbo on and all the Stuff that comes along it started "stall" (don't know if its the right word??) in the High gears, most 5th gear but it first start doing it when i hit boost (3000rpm)
I runs on Stock n75 valve.. I though i could be a boost problem, maybe the Stock system cant handle it? I did install a boost gauge to see if it was the was the problem, and it dont Seem like it. In first it runs from 1.4 bar and drops to 1.2. Same in second and third. But in 4 and 5th it goes to 1.7 bar and drops to 1.4.. I did wonder it maybe the n75 valve cant handle 1.7 bar??
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When I start my 2003 Escape 3.0, the rpm's shoot up to about 3000rpms. After a few seconds they drop to about 2000 and slowly creep back up to 3000. When I put in gear, I don't even have to step on the gas and my vehicle goes. It maintains between 1500-2000rpms as I'm driving. When I come to a red light or stop sign, it lurches like it wants to go even though I have my foot on the brakes. I've replaced the IAC valve, TPS, had it checked for vacuum leaks, PCV valve replaced. I'm at a loss as to what it could be.
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I have had my 20th for about a month now and I feel like first gear is so slow. I usually shift around 3,000 rpms. I was wondering if 1st if just slow in these cars or if there's something wrong?
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I have a 2001 accent with a 1.6 .... It won't rev over 3000rpm's. It does not have any codes being set. If I unplug the IAC it will rev up just like normal. I tried replacing the IAC, TPS, and swapped ECM and nothing has changed it. I tested continuity of the IAC circuit to ECM and it tests good. Tested ground circuit and it tests good. Have correct voltage at sensor. Not sure what else to look at.
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2003 Honda Odyssey EXL with 236,000 miles on it was jerking, very scary, and the rpms were revving up while driving. We asked around and had it checked and was told it was the transmission. We waited 9 months, not wanting to put the money into it and let it sit, not driving it at all. Then we decided to fix it last week.
We thought we were replacing the transmission, but, after working on it, the place we took it - very reputable - only did the solenoid, saying that fixed the problem. When we took it home an hour away, it was fine - much, much better than when we left it. But, the next day my husband felt a small jerk. We took it back that night and left it with them for a couple more days. They couldn't make the problem recur, so they sent it home with us. We were getting ready to go on a major road trip, so we had the oil changed, and all other stuff for regular maintenance seemed good. Had all fluids checked and new tires on and new battery. Also had recall done on ignition switch. Left on major cross-country trip. Drove about 5 hours and it started again. Just a little - one time. No place was open and we were on deadline, so kept driving cross country.
Eventually the check engine light came on (can't remember if it was before or after started jerking), but that has been on for a couple years and we keep having it checked and they tell us it is not worth fixing - hard to figure out the emissions problem. Could be several things. One was the solenoid, another the gas cap. We had both those replaced. Problem has gotten worse as we have crossed the U.S. on Memorial Day weekend - so no opportunity to have mechanic look at it or get codes due to everything closed. Checked transmission and oil fluid levels, and they are good.
If we accelerate VERY slowly, we are okay. But, the TCS light comes on if we accelerate too quickly sometimes, and it will stay on until we stop and turn the car off. Sometimes it doesn't come on at all, but the check engine light is always on now. In the last 200 miles, we now have occasionally the D (drive) light flash - if the TCS light is on and we are getting jerking, and the rpm's stay up in the high 2's or close to 3 and the van doesn't seem to shift into the higher gear. If it flashes, it won't quit or shift into the higher gear until we stop for maybe 20-30 minutes. Then, the light will stop flashing and the rpms are okay. As long as we accelerate really slowly, really slowly, it won't flash again. One time, on an off-ramp, we jerked when we were decelerating, but that was only once in about 1500 miles - or ever as far as I can remember. The jerk on acceleration has actually been going on for a couple years, but it was always just momentary and only occasionally. Now it is a problem.
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I've got an automatic transmission 2002 elantra 2.0 that I purchased in 2009. About a year after owning it a weird problem developed that I've just sort of lived with since. Between 25-40 mph my RPMs occasionally "bounce" persistently by an amount between 500 (mild) and about 1000 (severe). There's a bit of fluctuation insofar as what RPMs/speeds it happens at depending on outside temperature and how warm the engine is (higher temps correlate with this issue happening at higher RPMs and a more pronounced fluctuation), but it's a consistent issue every time I drive. It *seems* like my car is always trying to push down the revs, hits a certain low point depending on the gear/speed, then jumps up just a bit only to edge back down. Lather, rinse, repeat. It's not simply a display problem as I can feel and hear the engine revs changing.
No fluctuations at idle. Above 3000 RPMs it's ALWAYS smooth sailing. When I'm actively accelerating there's never a problem, even if my acceleration stays in the revolution problem range. The car is never in danger of dying, but if the cruise is engaged (ESPECIALLY in the 25-30 MPH range at operating temp) the car shudders uphill - I assume this is because the RPMs dip a bit too low for the gear the car is in. If I press the throttle the car responds normally. This bouncing RPM issue itself NEVER causes the car to shift gears in response, and if it's happening and the car DOES shift everything works fine until it goes back to trying to maintain RPMs in the problem range. When it happens I usually just increase speed by 5MPH and it goes away, though if the car is warm and the speed limit doesn't allow me to go fast enough to get out of the problem range it just does the same thing at the slightly higher RPMs.
When the problem started my car threw an OBD code - I didn't read it myself and brought the car to a random service shop who SAID they changed the throttle position sensor, and the code was gone, but a few days later it was doing the same thing without throwing a code. I tried changing the fuel pump thinking it was a fuel delivery problem, but that didn't solve anything. I put seafoam in the fuel system monthly so I'm fairly certain that fuel system gunk isn't an issue. The symptoms haven't changed AT ALL during the 6+ years this has been happening.
The kicker is that a few years ago I found a SUPERB mechanic - the first one I've ever actually trusted to be not only competent but also honest. Described the problem and even demonstrated it to him. When I brought in my car to have the struts and mounts replaced he spent two days trying to figure out what was causing the RPM issue too... and couldn't nail it down.
Possibly related: after starting the car - regardless of how long it's been running - there's a brief delay between pressing the gas pedal and the engine responding. Delay seems *slightly* longer the colder it is outside, but it's never more than a second and a half. No further delays unless I shut the engine off and turn it on again. Replacing the fuel pump didn't affect this matter whatsoever.
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I go out of town for work for a week and come back and my 1999 F250 V10 GAS, is acting up. It started when i tried to drive it and it didn't want to shift, it would rev up to 3000+ RPMs and finally shift really hard into gear along with the speed odo not keeping up and bouncing around not wanting to work. I also had my entire gauge cluster lit up with no key and door closed. all the lights were on and it was "dinging" like the door was open and it wasn't. you would hear it when you put your ear up to the door.
So my first thought was to change the VSS (which I did) no luck. So I started wiggling wire loops under the fuse box in the cab and the "dinging" quit.. i took it for a drive and it works like nothing ever happened. Obviously I am guessing there's a short so i brought it to my mechanic and hes saying he couldn't find anything by the fuse box but he thinks its closer or even attached to the gauge cluster itself. could this be true? Why would the gauge cluster loop throw off the shift points?
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I've got a 2005 Honda Odyssey and recently it started to "wobble" at relatively high speeds. I think I've isolated the scenario in which it wobbles the most. If I travel between 65-70 mph and then take my foot off the accelerator to coast, the car wobbles when it hits 60mph. It will continue to wobble until the speed goes down to around 55mph. By accelerating, I can get the wobbling to stop. This is the only time I've noticed this occurring. I'm kind of strapped for cash, so I hesitate bringing it in the dealer.
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2002 Elantra engine is revving up to 3000 rpms when in neutral or park. I changed the Throttle Position sensor and it went right back to revving up. Code read P0121. What might be causing this? Seems like I get one thing fixed and then another code shows up..
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I've had my 2000 Honda Accord V6 for about 3 years now and have had an idling issue pretty much since I purchased it. After driving for at least 50+ miles, and if its hot out it can easily have this issue as well, and leaving the car be for around 15 to 30 minutes, on start up the car drops RPMs immediately and dies. Multiple tries and it will do the exact same thing. Recently I found out a trick to make it work correctly which is revving the engine to 2000RPM for about 3-4 minutes, slowly dropping it down to 1500 RMP for around the same 3-4 minutes and finally down to 1000 RPM for an additional 3-4 minutes and letting off the gas. Usually after doing this the engine idles fine, car drives great. However, it must be noted that on Summer days with temperatures in the 85+ range, if I'm climbing (going up a hill for a long distance) the car might bog down on me, will not go above 50MPH and I have to pull off the side of the road for 45+ minutes before the car will run correctly again. This has happened about 3 or 4 times in the 3 years I've owned the car.
I would rather not have to rev the engine in hopes this fixes the issue each time so I'm wondering what could be the cause in the first place? I've replaced so many things including spark plugs, ignition coils, battery, idle air control valve, gasket, fuel pump, fuel pump relay and on. I gas the car up with Chevron gasoline, I've dumped in I don't know how many different fuel injector cleaners and have also tried Heet as well as Sea Foam cleaner. I've also had the car checked for vacuum leaks.
I've asked multiple mechanics if this could possibly be a vapor lock issue, but they all turn that idea down. They tell me that since the car is fuel injected this can't be the issue..but, I don't know, could it be the issue?
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I have an old (mid-'90s) Honda Odyssey that has generally worked great. Yesterday, it struggled to get up an icy driveway (since it does not have four-wheel drive) and once at the top seemed to to disengage from fourth gear into neutral, though it was still in fourth. After turning off the car and restarting, it engaged fine.Today the same thing happened on a level, non-icy surface after a few minutes of driving at slow speed. Is it possible to avoid this problem by driving in a lower gear to begin with?Any repairs would likely cost more than the car is worth, but I want to keep driving it -- safely -- as long as possible.
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