On my 94 Honda Del Sol. When I start up and the engine is cold, it runs fine. Soon, after it warms up, low rpm acceleration is rough until it hits about 2500 rpm. then it gets smooth. If I accelerate slowly during this period, it can be ok. If i open it up at higher rpm., it runs great.
View 4 RepliesI have a 96 Honda Civic CX. The check engine light came on the other day while it was raining (don't know if the rain had anything to do with it) and now it comes on every time I start the car until it warms up. Once in a while it comes back while driving but that's rare. I tried to get the code with a cheap reader and it didn't show that anything is wrong. I then took it to an auto parts place and they used one of their nice readers to scan it and told me that everything is fine. What's the next step?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2004 gls 1.8t Jetta. It has a straight piped turbo back exhaust, and a stage 2 tune. I recently had a problem with my car starting to rough idle when the engine gets to proper temp. The car starts to idle roughly, and when driving the car will bog down, if I keep my foot on the gas, the car acts like it is coasting and the rpms fall, but at some point the car will shoot off like i floored it. At lower rpms in the 1st and second gear, the car will randomly and periodically start bucking, with the same symptoms. I already replaced my coil packs and spark plugs with a kit off ecs, and when i went to change the spark plugs i had oil on the spark plugs and oil leaking from a bad valve cover gasket, so that was replaced as well. I replaced the fuel filter already.
The MAF sensor was just cleaned and didn't look too dirty. When I unplug the MAF it still idles rough. The fuel pump relay can be heard working properly when the door opens. Another problem that sometimes occurs on cold start is if I don't wait long enough for the pump to activate or sometime right after it starts, the car will start partly then stall out. When driving and the car is bucking the exhaust gives rich fuel smell. Also when 2 stepping in the car (which I don't do very often), the CEL starts to blink and the car misfires and drives rough. I figure since I don't have many parts on it yet I probably shouldn't do it anyway so I don't blow up the engine.
I have a 1993 Geo Prizm (Toyota Corolla) that idles roughly and lopes only when the engine is fully warmed up to operating temp. I changed the plugs, and wires are only 1 year old and seem to be in good shape. I suspected a vacuum leak, but have not been able to find one.
View 4 Replies2005 F250 6.0L ... My truck is running really rough when the engine isn't all the way quite warmed up. once the truck is fully warmed up to normal running temp it runs good. I am getting four engine codes. P0672, P0673, P0674, P0676 These codes say 2,3,4, and 6 glow plugs have a open circuit. Can this be the cause of my problem?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2009 Sante Fe, it has about 96000KM on it. It is a 3.3 engine AWD.
I find that when I accelerate the thing kind of feels rough. It is very subtle. Like you can almost miss it if I wasn't being so picky. But I can definitely feel something there. What this would be.
My mechanic tells me I need the intake manifold gasket replaced (check engine light on, engine surging, running very rough). How much damage can I do to the car by doing this repair myself and screwing it up? I've done lots of repairs on my car before -- brake pads, rotors, replace oil pan. I also have a copy of the manufacturer's shop manual.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 F-150 5.4 L. I was driving from home and seconds after the engine went into a rough idle that wouldn't let me accelerate. I scanned it and gave me multiple transmission trouble codes, about 15. I checked the wiring, the transmission fluid and it all looked good. So, what could be the problem?
View 3 RepliesDuring a hard acceleration to get on the freeway, the car "missed" and the check engine light came on. The shop said it was the fuel pump and replaced it. When I picked it up, they told me that I may need a new battery soon because the last start they did was hard. It worked well for me, but that day it was hard to start, but it did not seem like the battery. The shop checked the electrical system and all was good. They said the new fuel pump was faulty and replaced it. Since then, when it is over 70 degrees out (South Texas), and it is a hot start (I just drove it a while, turned it off, and try to restart within 30 minutes), it is hard to start. Could this be another faulty fuel pump? Is this some other problem? Could the shop have damaged something during the fuel pump replacement?
View 5 RepliesMy 2003 Honda Accord with 101,000 miles started hesitating on acceleration, and a day later my check engine light came on. I went to the auto parts store to borrow one of their diagnostic computers. The code I received for the engine light was from my O2 sensor. What can cause the hesitation and the O2 sensor to read faulty? I have had several O2 sensors go out on other vehicles, but that hasn’t caused any other symptoms before. I would like it to be that simple, seeing as how easy they are to replace, but I don’t want to get my hopes up. Anyway, the car is parked now and I am taking the bus because I can’t afford to take it to a mechanic. I don’t want to waste any money by starting to replace things without having better direction.
View 11 RepliesThis morning I went to start my car and while the engine was warming up (it's carbureted, not fuel injected) I heard a strange sound that I can only describe as sort of a "gulp" or something. As I was driving to the doctor, at one point I was going up a slight hill so I went to accelerate and the RPMs reved up but I didn't go any faster than I was going, which was about 30-35mph. What's going on here? 1987 Honda Accord LX....
View 4 RepliesRecently, my 2003 manual honda civic accelerates very slowly, even the engine speed goes up to 4000 rpm. Usually it takes up to 1 minute to reach 60mph on high way. Is the clutch getting bad?
View 5 RepliesMazda CX-7 sport that has rough idling when it is started and goes away when warmed up or driven. Is giving OBDII error code P0300 - multiple misfires. Where should I start looking?
View 3 RepliesI've got a 2002 Accord with a 4-cylinder engine with 90,8xx miles. For a while now, its been pretty rough and buzzy (not as glass smooth as it once was). Nothing seems out of the ordinary and everything seems fine otherwise, but just the other day, I stopped at a red light and I couldn't feel the engine. I thought I stalled, but I looked at the gauges to see that it was indeed running, but as smooth as melted butter (It hasn't run like that since the car was new!). After making it back home, the car was back to its old rough and "buzzy" self. So, my question is: Is there anything that I can do to return the engine to its glass-smooth idle? Its been tuned up with new plugs, wires, rotor button, and cap, but (all with oem parts too). I had almost forgotten how nice and refined this car was!
View 9 RepliesI have a 1995 Buick Century with 149,000 miles that will occasional and randomly idle rough when started warm. Also, on several occasions it will idle so rough it kills the engine and I'm unable to start the engine until the thermostat reads completely cold. I've taken it to 2 separate mechanics who both are unable to pull any error codes (even after the engine has died) and are unable to duplicate the problem. When it does idle rough most of the time I can rev the engine, put it in gear and drive it for a few minutes and the problem disappears. Other times I try to put it into gear and it kills, I put it into park and try to restart the engine and the engine will start for a brief second and then die and will die faster each time I restart until the engine doesn't turn over at all. Then once the thermostat reaches 'C' it starts up like there was no problem at all.
Here is a list of recent pertinent repairs:
- Replaced Battery 12/2/11
- Replaced plugs and wires 4/11/12
- Throttle Body Gasket and Fuel Filter Replaced 3/18/13
- PCV Hose replaced 2/19/14 (last mechanic's guess on the problem)
I don't notice any signs of a rich fuel mixture or abnormal exhaust (there was a discussion with a Buick with no start that had this).
Ok, I replaced the head gaskets on this truck a couple years back and now I am having symptoms similar to the ones I was having then. I am not entirely convinced that this is what is wrong however.
Symptoms:
Truck was idling rough until it warmed up
Truck takes forever to warm up or simply does not warm up
If/when it warms up it operates at higher than normal temp/almost overheats(it hasn't overheated yet)
Heater blows very cold air
White smoke(has been cold outside so not sure if due to temp or coolant)
Overflow bubbled when I shut the truck off, but it has only happened once so far
I am kind of at a loss, but like I said am suspicious of the head gaskets.
I have a 1999 F250 SD V10 4x4. I recently had a transmission installed and the truck is running erratic. I have an engine miss (sometimes when idling, more so when in drive and foot on the brake). I say sometimes because there are times it will not miss and the engine runs smooth. The transmission shifts a little strange and sometimes hard.
I am getting a code reading that says my TPS is faulty, but I installed a new one a few months back.
The engine is running rough (jerky on acceleration) especially when driving. I was wondering if I should take it to a shop and have them flash the computer to reset it?
I also remove the AC compressor a while back (bad clutch). I installed an aftermarket pulley.
My 1999 Civic (auto trans) idles fast at start up--drives itself until warmed up. Also intermittantly revs on its own at startup after warmed up. Throttle body was cleaned; problems persisted. Idle Air Control Value replaced, problem persists. Car has 173000 miles on it
View 3 RepliesOwn a 2000 Accord EX; 100k...runs great and smooth 99.9% of the time. However every once in a while, like maybe once a month or so it starts, but sounds and feels like its firing on 3 cyl...will die if I try to put in gear, or take foot off accelerator. If I shut it off and try starting it again same thing will happen. However if I let it sit awhile (sometimes one hour sometimes next day) it will start smoothly and run beautifully. Problem seems unrelated to temperature, weather, time since last use, stage of the moon, engine temp, parked on hill or flat road. or who tries to start the car...
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 Honda Odyssey. I got the timing belt replaced two weeks ago.Last week the engine started making a quiet clicking noise upon acceleration. The clicking noise happens intermittently not continuously. Then last night the yellow engine light came on. Questions: What does the yellow engine light mean? Is the engine light related to the timing belt work that was done? Would the clicking noise be connected to the timing belt work?
View 3 RepliesThe car: 1994 toyota celica GT 2.2L automatic
Here's the problem: car starts fine when cold. When fully warmed up, if i stop to go to the store or something, and then start it after like 20 - 30 minutes it will start and the idle will be fluctuating between 800 and 400 for a few minutes and then even out. sometimes it will actually start up and die immediately, in which case i can save it by giving it gas for a few seconds and then it's fine.
What I've done so far: plugs (NGK), wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter (toyota), (checked air filter. still clean), tried cleaning the throttle body and IAC with some deep creep spray while on the car (not much effect).