Honda - Hybrids :: Keep ICE Off In Drive Through?
Apr 30, 2011
Is it true, to move a Honda hybrid one foot, you have to turn the engine on, or the engine will come on, then you can move?
View 19 RepliesIs it true, to move a Honda hybrid one foot, you have to turn the engine on, or the engine will come on, then you can move?
View 19 RepliesI found an article that said Honda is updating the Civic hybrid to discharge the battery less deep and run the gas engine more for AC usage. The goal is to prolong the HV battery and it is making owners worry about loosing some MPG. How deep Honda BMS allow the battery to discharge (before and after update)?
View 15 RepliesThis is the msg I get from my 2007 civic hybrid, "Please check gas cap".
I checked the gas cap and it is as tight as can be. The car was working fine this morning (I use that word loosely, it's a POS), and then after I get off of work, the message shows up. I'm at a quarter tank right now, so I'll fill up tomorrow.
So here is my delima. i currently own a prius and looking to replace my wife's vehicle. I thought maybe a EV would be great for a commuter. Problem is i have a long commute
45 miles to work.
i could probably charge at work all day(8am-5:30pm)
then leave from there to school and then home. which is 69-71 miles. <-- yikes.
My 2007 Nissan Altima Hybrid has had this recurring problem since I purchased it used and I learned the original owner had the same recurring issue and other owners on the internet also. Typically when I go to start my car in the morning, after my car has sat in the garage over night, I depress the brake and the ignition button and **ALL** the warning lights come on including the EV mode ready and Service Engine light but the car has no power steering and the gas engine won't start at all. The car is drivable for about 30 seconds in EV mode then dies. When the car is at the dealer the car starts fine and they can't replicate the issue but find the following DTC's: UOO73, UO100 ECM 211, UO100 ECM 530, UO123, UO124, U0126, U0129 BRAKE 220, UO293,UO131 EPS 433, UO121 EPS 434, U1020, U1022. Nissan replaced the hybrid battery, the hybrid harness and the main car harness and now they say there is nothing more they can do to fix the problem. The problem remains. Have you had the same or a similar issue?
View 8 RepliesMy daughter's 2002 Honda Civic is overheating unless you drive over 60 mph. The heater is also not working - it blows air but the air is cold. It is full of coolant - we checked. The thermostat was replaced about 2 months ago.
View 4 RepliesSo I backed into a pole in a parking lot the other day with my 1996 Honda Accord. After that I've noticed a creaking noise when I get into my car and when I'm driving it, EXCEPT when I take hard turns... then there's no noise. I can reproduce the noise by pushing on my bumper. The only visible damage to my bumper is a little scraping around where the exhaust pipe is. Is this just the bumper itself making this creaking noise or could it be something more serious?
View 2 RepliesI had my car towed to the shop today because when I put the gear in drive, the engine would gun like it was in neutral. It would go in reverse, but not in drive. I asked them to check the transmission fluid and it wasn't low. What it could be?
View 6 RepliesMy 96 civic stalls when i put in drive sometimes, problem comes go's, was told tps sensor or trans control solenoid ?
View 4 RepliesWhile my wife was driving tonight the VSA light went on, the emergency brake light went on, and the "D" for drive was flashing green. She stopped the car and called me. One the Car was in park, it would not go back into the Drive, and it continued to flash green. I've tried pulling fuses, disconnecting the battery. The other issue is that The hazard lights will not work and the turning blinker will not function. I have determined its an electrical issue. Other than that I'm clueless.
I popped the button just below port just below the shifter and manually put in drive and drove it home.
1991 Honda Auto trans, 247k miles. We now have the third transmission in the car and it still does not shift into over-drive-4th. Odds seem poor that all 3 were actually bad.What now?
View 9 RepliesMy car vibrates really bad when stopped and in drive. It does not vibrate in park or neutral. I took the car into my local mechanic who replaced the spark plugs, idle air control valve, throttle body gasket, charged me and it actually runs worse. The mechanic assigned to my car said he couldn't feel it so just replaced what he thought might be causing this vibration. It took me a day to calm down and take the car back and speak to the manager of the department who was amazed at how bad the car vibrated. 2002 Honda Accord 86,000 miles....
View 7 RepliesMy 1995 honda passport ran great until a couple of weeks ago. I moved to North Carolina, and it sat for a few days as I was unpacking. When I started it back up, sometimes when I hit the brake, the lights on the middle dash come on for a split second, then go off. Also, my winter and power drive buttons don't work (anymore). As of yesterday, the lights didn't come on when I hit the brake, but it started hesitating when I started to drive.
View 4 RepliesI recently noticed my honda fit 2007 feeling like it is going to stall in a few cases :
When I turn on the Air Conditioning and drive
When I drive in reverse
When I am idle
It is not as bad as it could be - car actually stalling - but I would like to know what it is so I can fix it now and avoid the headache.Just had a combined 60.000 and 100.000 mile service done and that did not fix the problem as I was hoping it would.
I have a 2002 honda accord I4 coupe (ULEV edition) with a peculiar problem. The problem is that the pistons are pushing down too hard on the connecting rod/crank shaft bearings (creating a banging noise when I drive or accelerate in neutral). It could be a timing issue (spark igniting too early?) but the check engine light is not on.
I have had a mechanic look at the engine and they have determined that
1) Oil pressure is normal
2) Bearing clearance is good (meets specification)
3) Cam timing is good.
4) Balance shaft clearance is good
5) Thrust clearance is good
The mechanics are not sure what is causing the problem. What else to check? Seafoam was added to the gas tank weeks before the problem surfaced. Could the car's computer be damaged?
My Honda Civic DX (1997) is over 200k. Over the past six months, it's been to the repair shop multiple times including each of the brake pads, shoes were replaced. Nowadays, it's making a squeaking and scraping noise as the vehicle is moving at any speed. The squeak comes and next the scraping. The sound is becoming more pronounced, it seems, daily. What the problem is coming from?
View 1 RepliesIn my 2006 Civic I intermittently get a dirty gas smell in the interior after I drive and park the car, and then come back a few minutes later and start it. Do I have a gas leak of some kind? I have not noticed a loss in mileage.
View 5 RepliesI have a Honda Odyssey with 154000 miles on it. In February it started to slip when putting it into drive. I thought this was due to the cold snap. The slip/delay grew until it would disengage from gear when driving. Eventually it was not safe to drive and I had it towed to a transmission shop. They have replaced the TCU, the torque converter arm & the transmission & the ring kit. He has told me that he won't charge more than he originally quoted me, but when I went out there yesterday nothing had changed (it was still on the lift with the exhaust & undercarriage on the floor) since two days prior when he told me it would be done on Friday. Do I have any recourse, and how do I make him finish this job?
View 3 RepliesI have a manual 98 civic with 120k miles on it that has recently developed an annoying habit of stalling. The car started fine the other morning so I backed it into the driveway to warm up, no problems there. When I went to leave for work, the car stalled and died. I got it restarted but when I tried to drive it stalled again. It happened as soon as I disengage the clutch. As I said, moving in reverse was no problem. The battery died after I attempted several times to restart it so I charged the battery overnight.
The next morning the car fired up right away with no hesitation nut as soon as I released the clutch it started sputtering so I gunned the engine to keep the RPM's up. I managed to get it into 2nd and even 3rd but as soon as I down shifted for a stop sign it died. So far I've replaced the battery and the alternator, both were on their way out anyways. Then this past weekend I got a good deal on a new fuel pressure regulator and put that on. The car started right up and ran nice and smooth. I took it out for a drive for about a half hour.
About 20 minutes into the drive I noticed that when I pressed on the gas pedal, the RPMs wouldn't move up much higher. Shortly thereafter the car started sputtering while accelerating. When I got home I turned the car off and went inside. I came out about 15 minutes later and the car wouldn't start. This has happened after every part replacement. New alternator, runs fine for 20-30 minutes,then won't start again. New battery, same thing. And tonight the gas pressure regulator. Could it be the main fuel relay, should I pull the injectors? The plugs and wires are new and the distributor is less than 2 years old and well sealed. I'm at a real loss here.
Why does my 2008 Honda Fit intermittently shake when AC is on, in drive, and foot on brake?The shake is every 2 to 10 seconds, darn short each time, and hardly strong. (If it happens when I'm driving then it would be hard to notice). It definitely does not happen when in park or the AC is off.
Three weeks ago I got a rebuilt transmission. This issue started for the first time 3 days ago when the weather turned very hot for the first time in a while, although I have used the AC from time to time beforehand. Is it safe to drive over the weekend?
I have a honda civic 2000 and recently I noticed that it overheat only after exiting a long drive on highway. The car does not overheat for my normal daily commutes (within the city).
I tried the following:
- Checked coolant on bot radiator and overflow tank.
- Changed the thermostat- No leak on the ground in the garage where I parked the car overnight
- No noise to lead to an eventual issue with water pump
- Radiator fan is kicking ok
- Had a mechanic do the chemical test for the head gasket: negatif
- Found that there is air in the cooling system:tried to burp the system 2 times but air is still in the coolant system. Not sure where its coming from !!?? Might be that this could be causing the overheating ?
- Found a crack on the manifold and changed the manifold then tried to get rid of the air (burping the system): no success. The air is still not removed completely.
- Changed the radiator cap.
What can I do next to diagnose the overheating condition that happens only after exiting long drive highway?