Honda - Fit :: Transmission Noise (Windy Click) While Attempting To Downshift
Nov 25, 2012
I just got a new Honda Fit. 5 speed. I recently just hit some black ice and to avoid hitting the guard rail and other cars, I had to do some very odd maneuvering - a combination of e-brake, downshifting, and a whole lot of praying.
So here are my questions, during this scenario while attempting to downshift (unsure if I had the clutch all the way in) I heard a strange noise that sounded like a windy-click, like something retracting from a wound-up spindle.
Last question, pulling the e-brake. I felt compelled to pull the e-brake based on my fishtail and luckily it stabilize the car. This happened at about 25mph. Unsure if at that time if I had the clutch all the way in - did I do any damage to the transmission or the e-brake in this situation?
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I have a 2000 Ford Explorer XLT. V6, 4x4
At very low speeds (5-10 mph), attempting to accelerate while turning (like coming out of a parking lot OR out of a curve) the transmission fails to engage. I hit the gas, the RPMs go up, but it doesn't get into gear. I will let off the gas, give it a couple seconds, hit the gas again and usually it engages. Sometimes I will have to repeat this step a second time. This problem started very slowly and has gradually gotten worse. It happens about once a day.
Concerned, I took it to the local Ford dealership and they have thus far changed/flushed the transmission fluid and replaced the filter. The mechanic said he found no metal shavings in the fluid, which might indicate grinding gears. They also said there were no codes coming up pointing to a transmission problem. It is still having the same exact issue however. The trouble now is they cannot "verify" the problem. The mechanics have put 40+ miles on it in similar driving scenarios and it will not act up for them.
After a couple weeks of back-and-forth, I'm really frustrated. My understanding is that they're "not sure" it is a transmission problem. They don't really want to open up the transmission case until they have a place to start. It should either be something mechanical with the transmission or a problem with the computer that controls the transmission, right? After getting off the phone with the mechanic today he said it might be a sticky throttle body?
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I have a 2012 Cruze with a manual transmission. I have 43000 miles. When I down shift into 2nd gear I get a whining noise from under the car. I can shift it with no issues and no noise but when down shifting or turning in 2nd gear it whines.
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I own a 1997 Honda Odyssey-a couple of weeks ago when I turned the key it wouldn't start....no noise,no clicking however the battery was working. I called Road service for a tow home and while waiting,I kept putting in the key.After 20 min.the car started and I drove home. Since then it's gotten worse. It's a gamble to go any where, never knowing if it will start or not. My husband replaced the ignition switch-that didn't work and now says he'll replace the starter ( if that doesn't work he plans on replacing the entire ignition cylinder). My alarm system hooks into the ignition...
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So i have a 1996 honda accord, i recently just got a new motor put in it. Its a used motor but a good one. I picked the car up from the shop yesterday, i drove it all day yesterday and today. It drives and sounds so much better than it did before. My husband goes to leave for work this evening and it wont start, it just makes a click noise when you turn the key, it wont even crank over. The battery is brand new and not used, the starter is brand new and not used, we just got both this year. It sounds like the clicking noise is coming from where the starter is, somewhere in that area. Could the starter have went bad on us? He checked all the cables and wires to see maybe if something is loose, everything seems to be in tact and tight.
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When on the highway, there is an occasional scraping/grinding almost a windy noise from the front left of the car. Happens most at high speeds when going over bumps. it's a Toyota matrix 2003 with 163k miles. We're on a car trip and are wondering if we need to address this now or if it can wait a few days.
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Year: 1999Make: Chevrolet
Model: Silverado 1500 LS
Issue: Bad Transfer Case
Late model 99 Chevrolet Sliverado 4x4 with push button transfer case. At the end of last winter the transfer case began a grinding-noise when attempting to go from 2H to 4H.
I have a great mechanic who has proven both his skill and honesty to me a few times now. I took the truck in for diagnosis. His hope was that the electronic transfer may be faulty but unfortunately found metal shavings when he went to check the lubricant in the transfer case.
Diagnosis: Bad Transfer Case - Replacement necessary.
Mechanic has recommended a salvaged transfer case from reputable salvage dealer.
I have sourced a rebuilt transfer case with manufacturer warranties from a "major parts chain" for approximately 1/3 more cost.
My debate: The truck (while very late model), has a rebuilt engine that has less than 50k miles on the rebuild. I have expectations that I will continue to drive and maintain this truck for a very long time.
Although I am always aligned with less cost, my first response is that the rebuild from "major parts chain" is warrantied and far less likely to require a replacement in the remaining life of the vehicle.
However I am also uncertain how to evaluate the existing transmission. Presumably it has >100k. Is there a risk in pairing an OEM rebuilt transfer case with a transmission this old?
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My husband was just returning from a long car trip in our 1996 Honda Civic when the engine seemed to downshift, start revving, there was a clicking sound, and so he put it in neutral and pulled off to the side of the road. As he was pulling off, there was a loud popping sound, clicking continued, and the car died. He could restart it, still clicking, seemed like it was running in a really low gear. Had it towed to a CarTalk recommended auto repair shop which put him about 2.5 hours from home. The garage called us and said that the car had almost no oil in it and it was likely that the engine was starting to seize and pretty much done for.
So regarding the low oil...we got an oil change right before the trip, so we were not quite 1500 miles, and three days into the oil change. The oil light never came on (until the car stalled and ALL the lights came on.) or my husband obviously would have stopped sooner. The garage is now putting the car up and trying to figure out where all the oil went. They put in over three quarts to fill it up.
My question...could the car have gone for 1500 miles with the old oil drained and no new oil added? We're talking pretty intense freeway driving here. Why didn't the oil light go on? Could the oil change place have done or neglected to do something that precipitated the demise of our Civic's engine? I'll update this post when I hear back from the garage.
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I recently bought a 1998 Honda Accord with 124,000 miles. The car had one owner for 14 years. The carfax indicates the owner maintained service on the vehicle, but didn't go into detail about the work that was done. (only that the started had be replaced) When I come to a complete stop the car downshifts rough into first gear. It almost feels like it slightly jumps forward. Is this a problem I need to address and if so what is the problem? I bought it from a trusted dealership who had their mechanics give it a check and said nothing was wrong with it.
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I have a problem with a bmw 1996 7 series transmission.When I start driving the car all gears shift fine, but when I come to a stop it won't downshift to first gear,i have to put the car in park and then in drive again and it run ok until I come to a stop again.
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2011 Sonata Limited ... I have just under 60k miles and did a tranny drain and refill at 24k and 55k. Just had the brake light switch replaced. For some reason when cruising with the car in overdrive, if I let off the gas to decelerate and ease into the gas again, I get a real hard down shift and shift. So every time I get on the gas again it is either kicking out of overdrive or downshifting and shifting back immediately. 99% of the time it is a hard thump. When I have the cruise set I do not notice this at all. It does it in ECO or out of ECO. This is new and I started noticing this after the brake switch replacement.
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Hauled my in-law's pop-up camper across the great state of South Dakota this week and noticed that when downshifting from 4th to 3rd it would occasionally flare a bit on the downshift. it was a real quick 100-200 rpm flare when it did it. it would not always flare, though, so it took me a while to figure out a deciding factor. (I had time, as it was about an 8hr haul with kids). what I finally noticed is that if the trans temp was below 180F, the downshift was solid - no discernible flare. but if the temp got north of 180F, then it would flare a bit and never seem to "learn" it's way out of the flare until the temp dropped below 180 the ambient temp was between 95-104 on the trip, and the trans seemed to run between about 170-190 depending on how hilly the terrain was. it didn't downshift a lot. I could pull most of the hills in OD, even if it had to unlock the converter. is this a sign of anything?
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I have been a long time Lexus owner (ES and 3 RXs), but I am new to the GX. I just got a 2014 GX-40 w/ Premium Package.
The GX has a lot of the same features my previous RXs had, but of course has some improvements (smoother ride, quieter, better stereo sound, real 4WD).
1) The RX had a console that had the USB connection in it. I found it very handy to just leave my iPod plugged in there. I just had to switch the Source in the radio whenever wanted to listen to it. Since it was in the console, it was out of sight from thieves. On the GX, my iPod won't fit in the small area where the USB ports are. I don't know if an iPod touch would even fit, and they have much less music storage anyway.
2) The GX obviously weighs more than the RX, and it has a V8 engine. Some portions of the power band in the GX seem to be peppier, but overall, the GX feels a little more sluggish. Sometimes I manually downshift the transmission to pass a vehicle, etc. Are there any other alternatives?
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So the problem is that I have a jerky downshift 3-2 and 2-1 that can be felt by everyone in the car (car pushes forward on downshift) until the car warms up. When the car is warm I can feel it slightly at times and feel a clunk when shifting down 3-2 and 2-1. On up-shifts at times the shifts are shaky from 1-2 and 2-3. I have brought this forward to my dealership as well as another one. They all performed software updates and reset the adaptive learning. However every time I got my vehicle back after this procedure I found the A/C was on full blast. So the initial drive by the tech after the reset was learning while the A/C was on. Would this be causing the weird shifting I experience while the A/C is off. I seem to notice a better shifting when the A/C is on but this may just be me trying to reason why my transmission is behaving this way. I drove other 2015 Sonata's and they have much better shifting than my car and no hard jerks on downshifts.
Both dealers have felt the downshifts and have come back and simply said "We've done all the updates and reset and learning. This may just be a normal characteristic of the car." I told them that a brand new vehicle in this day and age shouldn't be shifting poorly when compared to an older vehicle with 300,000 km (my old Honda Civic which are prone to transmission failures). They responded casually saying you can go and get a second opinion from another dealership if you like. I am furious with their responses and just left it at that. I need to know how to get this resolved and if this is indeed something I should expect from my Sonata.
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Transmission (V-6) is slow on the upshift; and jerky on the downshift. Going uphill, the transmission does not want to downshift into a lower gear unless the accelerator is heavily depressed. So, 6th gear at like 45 mph uphill, then finally downshift into 4th with jerk downshift.
As car comes to a stop, right about 2 or 3 mph, the rpm's drop from idle to about 400; sometimes once sometimes twice. It feels like it's going to stall. Have had all the software updates.
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My daughters 2006 Infinity G 35 transmission hesitates to downshift when lugging at 35mph. Is this a trait of this vehicle or a problem with the tranny or anything else?
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This last month I have been noticing that either when I am coming to a stop the transmission down shift hard.... and when moving from a stop it gives two bucks like a standard does when u let the clutch out to fast... so i went into do my oil change and asked them to look at it.... guess what its getting a new tranny..... makes me want to trade it in when i get it fixed....
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I just bought a 2010 F-150 with 60,000 miles. I have noticed that as I slow to a stop the transmission feels like it doesn't down shift. The RPM stays at 1000 and only drops to about 550 rpm when the vehicle comes to a complete stop. Feels like the brakes are fighting the engine to stop the vehicle.
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2002 acura el, basically a fancier canadian version of a civic. 1.7l v-tec engine.
Anyways the (5 speed manual) transmission makes an odd clicking noise that sounds similar to putting a card in bike spokes when you were a kid. Its hard to describe here is a video
It happens 80-90% of the time but occasionally sounds normal, seems to be getting worse lately,responds to rpm increase but gets drowned out around 3200rpm, and cant really be heard in 4th or 5th gear doesn't make the noise when rolling or revving in neutral, or when driving in reverse.Sounds like its coming from the bottom middle of the engine bay, around the input shaft or where the passenger side cv connects.
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I have a 2001 Accent with a 1.6. This car is mostly driven by my daughter so I'm translating the symptoms as she has described them to me. The issue appears to be this - when driving at highway speeds the car will sometimes downshift from OD to 3rd gear and stay there. When the problem first started, she would pull off the highway, turn off the car and then restart it - this would appear to "fix" things temporarily, however, as time went on, it would work up to (and including) 3rd gear and not go into OD after a restart.
I've reviewed the various threads on this site describing the 4th gear problem prevalent in the Accent, but in each case that was posted, there was a check-engine-light or at least some diagnostic codes stored that one could refer to - I've scanned this car every time she's been home and there are no DTC's. Should I assume that this is the standard "4th gear" issue and take the pan off for investigation or could this be some other issue such as the speed sensor causing the transmission to limit itself to a max of 3rd gear?
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I was driving up a fairly big hill in Connecticut using cruise control (65 mph). The transmission downshifted, and the car started to rev (speedometer and tachometer) and slow down. I then felt a clunk and the car started to go again. The car kept on doing the rev up and then clunk as it gradually slowed down. Putting the car in Park caused a grinding noise, and Park did not keep the car from rolling. What did I break?
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