Honda - Fit :: 2007 - Feels Like Going To Stall When Turn On AC And Drive
Sep 6, 2014
I recently noticed my honda fit 2007 feeling like it is going to stall in a few cases :
When I turn on the Air Conditioning and drive
When I drive in reverse
When I am idle
It is not as bad as it could be - car actually stalling - but I would like to know what it is so I can fix it now and avoid the headache.Just had a combined 60.000 and 100.000 mile service done and that did not fix the problem as I was hoping it would.
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I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey with 140,000 miles. In the past year we've had major repairs to the car including rebuilding the transmission, fixing things on the steering column, replacing the catalytic converter, waterpump and timing belt, and a complete brake job. We thought we would be good to go for another 3 years on this van. But it continues to have this sporadic problem a few times a week: I will put the car into drive and press the accelerator, but the engine doesn't seem to get any fuel and it feels like the car may die or stall. If I keep my foot on the accelerator, the car will kick in and go after a few seconds.
A couple of times, I pushed down a little bit harder on the accelerator, but it sort of surged or jumped a bit and then got going just fine. My mechanic says this problem has to happen while he's driving it and has it hooked up to a machine or something in order to diagnose it and he is going to charge me more diagnostic fees to hunt for the problem. He says it could be many things. Is there something simple I can check myself in order to fix this before paying more fees? Would a different type of gas, or additives or a simple change of spark plugs be the first thing to try? We're tired of putting money into this van, but we feel we are invested in it now, and want to hang in there.
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weird thing happens in my 2.0 manual jetta. every 1500ish miles, when coming to a stop, it feels like my car is about to stall but its not in gear.The trip milage will reset, radio will turn off, dash will dim, but no CEL. Since then key fob doesnt work (replaced fob batteries), and my DRL are off. still cold starts no problem (figure its not the battery), trying to figure out if i can get closer to what needs a fix before tearing into something unrelated.
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My 07 Accord V6 won't turn over. Brand new battery showing 12.5 volts, and I checked all the fuses. All other electrical is in working condition. Had the wife turn the key while I tapped on the starter with no luck. Then I measured the voltage coming into the solenoid from the starter while sitting there and 0 volts, then had the wife turn the key and it was showing 10.5 volts.
I took off the kick panel and swapped the ACC relay for the starter cut relay ( they're identical) and still nothing. I'm pretty much down to it being a problem with the ignition switch, but I'm not looking forward to getting into the steering column. What else it could be, or have some tips for what I should do / be looking for if I get into the steering column?
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Ok, the swap is all done and I have an engine in the truck that has compression in more than (7) cylinders.
2002, 7.3, 4wd - ~120k miles on trans. Fresh fluid (Mercon V).
Put the gear selector in reverse and it goes right into gear with the normal tug and functions as it should. Put it in low gear and it also appears to work fine. But, when selecting '2' or 'drive' it feels almost like its engaging 2 gears at once?? There is limited forward motion and it feels like the brakes are on. I have not driven further than the driveway yet, but I have a long driveway...
The OD light does not come on. I am not getting any codes from AE, but I really don't know how to use it for transmission stuff (I've been using a different scan tool that I no longer have).
We have not put the bed on the truck, so no tail lights - but 3rd brake light has new bulbs and was working (didn't check this AM though... )
I have a couple other codes, CEL, 'check gauges' and no tach. Gonna start another thread for those issues, I'll put a link here in case its related.
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I drive a 96 honda accord and my dad just got a 2003 VW golf and when i drive it it feels weird. When i hit the gas on my accord its solid and hard but when i hit the gas on the VW golf it feels loose i can hit the bottom of the car in the gas and it wont make any reaction.
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My 2007 Honda CR-V has intermittent starting problems. It doesn’t matter if the engine is cold, warm, or hot, time of day, or weather conditions. The car makes no sound and does not turn over when you try to start it. The idiot lights come on but no indication of the problem. The dealer “thinks” it’s the starter but not sure. They won’t replace the starter (#600.00) unless they are absolutely sure that’s the problem. The dealer waived the $150.00 diagnostic fee and concluded the vehicle is ok at this time.They started the vehicle 20 – 30 times without a problem.
Dealers notes on service report were: “Performed GRB electrical system test. The battery, starter and charging system all passed. They checked the A/C relay and is OK. Checked battery and starter connections and they are all ok. Warmed engine to normal operating temp and checked ECT voltage with HDS AIT is reading .6 volts which is in spec. Vehicle is ok at this time”.
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I've had this happen to my car lots and lots of times and taken it to Vw about 10 times to get it checked out and they always say nothings come up
When I start my car it runs perfectly fine, but later on it starts to shake and feels like the car wants to turn itself off.
I first thought it was to do with cold starts but it's happen in all sorts of temperatures, sometimes i've driven the car for 10 miles and the engine is at 90 degrees but it still happens.
Videos bellow show what happens.
The car is a 1.6 TDI ...
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Two months and 2500 miles on my GTI and I feel like I finally know what the DSG is going to do most of the time. Driving with a cold tranny? Expect some delayed clutch takeup and very noticeable downshifting. Downshifting to pass? Goose the throttle a bit before hand to let the car know what you want. Shifting from reverse to drive? Better come to a full stop. EXCEPT! My DSG will still seemingly stall during this transition roughly 1 out of 3 times. I cannot find any rhyme or reason to it and now basically have to sit stopped in N for a good 3-5 seconds before shifting into D to keep the car from doing that quick surge and stop maneuver. I feel like it might be something with the timing of when I press or release the brake. I love every other aspect of the car which is why it's so annoying having to explain to passengers why the transmission in my 30 thousand dollar hatchback just fell on its face.
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I am suddenly having difficulty starting my car. It will consistently turn over, but sounds as if it's running down the battery - right away, I don't sit for more than a few seconds with the ignition switch engaged. I turn the key to the off position and try again and it will has started up by the 3rd try every time so far. Once it starts, it runs great - no problems what so ever.
I replaced the battery about a month and a half ago so I suspected that perhaps I got a bad battery. I took the car by autozone to have them test the battery and alternator - both tested "good," But I should note that this was actually the second time I took it to autozone this weekend and the battery tested good but low charge the first time (It was fully charged this time and I had just had trouble cranking. I thought I had just killed the battery because I was using a cell phone battery charge and thought it was just drawing too much).
I suspected the starter may be going bad, but I'm not sure because it will turn the engine over every time, it just doesn't start. The girl at autozone suggested it may be the voltage regulator but I thought that that along with issues with the alternator itself would be noticeable if I ran the car with the lights, radio, etc on? I read that it could be the plugs or wires, but I would think in that case the battery wouldn't sound as if it were run down right off the bat.
[URL] ....
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Fourth attempted fix failed. 2 times with "regular" mechanics, once with Kia dealership. My 2006 Kia Optima will drive fine for about 20-30 minutes (last time 18 miles) I'll hit a bump, stop, or turn a corner and then it acts up (engine light comes and goes). I have to drive with my foot on the gas at stops it wont come down from 40mph unless I break, It once wouldn't go past 40 though and I thought it was going to stall out on me. Once shut off, It has trouble starting, but will start.
Shut it off, it runs again fine for the next 10min or more. I have had the crank-shaft sensor replaced three times, (last by dealer for double the cost) New battery just put in a couple of months ago, spark plugs, the throttle body was cleaned, and threw in some high octane gas cleaner in the tank as well.Every time I take it in, they say "it's not acting up right now so we don't know" ....The only other issues that don't seem too important right now are back sway bar and flex pipe.
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This morning when trying to leave for work, my prius refused to turn on. When you press the brake so you can press the start button, the brake feels extremely hard, almost like it doesn't want you to press it. The light on the start button becomes orange after a pressing the button once. And on the dashboard screen (I don't know what call it on a Prius) in the very bottom right corner, a red notifications light flashes very quickly, so quickly that is hard to tell what it is, but by staring at it for like 30 seconds it looks like the symbol of a car with a lock attached to it. I may be wrong though. My Prius v is a 2012 model, trim three, and it has a little over 60,000 miles on it. I also have a prepaid maintenance through the dealership. I don't even know where to start.
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I just installed my 2.5" leveling kit. The drivers side went really easy. The passenger side was VERY difficult getting the strut back in without a spring compressor. I got it though after some prying.
Now when I drive straight down the road, she does great. When I turn left, she does fine. When I turn right, it feels like the wheel is wobbling off.
Most of what I have read, people are having wobbles at 60+ MPH. Mine does this at any speed.
What did I do wrong? What is wrong with the truck? Does the leveling kit need to go? What can I do to fix this.
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My girlfriend has a 2007, v6, Honda Accord. She had difficulty turning the steering wheel, accompanied with a loud noise. She took it to a local garage and they diagnosed it as a leak in the power steering hose which she had replaced for about $400. When she used the car the following day, the problem was still there and seemed to be a little worse. She called the garage and they said for her to bring the car back which we'll be doing tomorrow. Also, coincidentally, we saw that Honda issued a recall for this. [URL] ...... As a result, we have the following questions:
-Is there any recourse for full or partial reimbursement from Honday? After all, if we took it to Honda, then Honda dealer would bill Honda Manufacturer anway.
-Should garages be familiar with recalls?
-Assuming the local garage fixes the problem, do you recommend that we still take it to the dealership?
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I have a 2011 XLT 5.0 V8 with 133,260 miles. I have extended warranty for the next 12,000 miles...which is great because I drive about 400 miles a month... Anyhow it runs great but for one small issue (hopefully) that has been intermittent.
She likes to idle slightly rough in drive at a stop or very low speed, and in reverse at slow speed. If I don't maintain the RPM it will stall and the low oil pressure light will come on, which I imagine comes on because of the sudden stall.
I first noticed this while backing into my garage in the driveway, It would fluctuate in RPMs and if I didn't maintain the gas it would shut off. I took it to the dealer and all they were able to tell me was the Tranny fluid was low and it would cause it to shut off at incline because a sensor isn't detecting fluid in the tranny. I thought this was weird but being as I have never owned an F150, I didn't know better.
It was fine for a little over a month and it started doing it again at stop lights and backing into my driveway. It has become frequent but there is no issue driving at speed and on the freeway. There is no stuttering or shaking and if it weren't for the fluctuating RPM at a stop and the stalling, it would be hard to tell if there was an issue.
All I can note is that there is a clicking sound under the hood, if I remember correctly the last time this happened I was at a 1/4 tank of fuel like I am now, I also feel like it may be a throttle body issue, or some sort of air sensor, I plan on taking it to the dealer but I figure I would get a more informed answer on the forums.
I also hear this is a common issue with the 5.0s... I purchased the truck in December and since then I have only put 250 miles on it.
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I have a 07 Camry LE. I recently replaced the belt tensioner and belt. A couple, maybe three weeks later its having symptoms of hesitation when accelerating and when at a stop. The rpm's are stable but seem to dip below its operating specification, causing the car to come to a wobble felt just like when you're in too low a gear when driving a standard vehicle. I suspect it may be air related but that's just a guess. I have not looked under the hood yet since its dark out and would like to get some feedback on this problem. Another probable cause I suspect is the fuel filter. The car has 113,000 miles and i doubt its ever been changed (I am the second owner).
Before I changed the tensioner I could be a stop and then suddenly press the accelerator to avoid oncoming traffic. The car will stall and die sometimes. It's has only done this to me on two occasions. Both at the same location. Rapid acceleration at this point was on an incline. If it matters.
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The steering on my Ex isn't working like it should. At times it feels loose when cruising then feels tight when straightening back out after a turn... the wander is really bad...
My PS fluid is also turning into a muddy brown goo every 5k... I changed the PS pump this summer with a supposedly good used one...
What should I be looking at/checking for?
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I have a 99 Honda Accord, 94 K miles, received from Philadelphia last fall. When the car is cold, it idles when stopped (e.g. at a light) fine, but when it warms up, it idles so low it feels like it will stall. Also, once parked, or sometimes idling, a smell of rotten eggs comes form the exhaust. The check engine light remains on, though I replaced the gas cap. Is altitude the culprit? How to fix? It was serviced before I received it and I've changed the oil at 3 K miles once. I mostly drive low miles, locally.
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I have a 93 Prelude that randomly shuts down and stalls. When this happens there are no signs of life in the car. All lights and accessories shut off and the car stalls. After anywhere from 2 mins to 15 mins you will be able to restart the car and continue on your way. I am the only owner of the car. It has 83,000 miles on it. At this point it happens very randomly without warning. Usually about 3 or 4 times a month.
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I had an engine running problem recently with my 92 Honda Civic. I felt the car stalling last Sunday when it tried to shift beyond 25 mph. I had to step on the pedal harder to get it to move over 35 mph, then I felt the gear shift and then it ran all right after it reached 35 mph. However, it happened about 80% of time when it had to stop at a traffic light and go during the last couple days. When I pushed the gas pedal, I could hear the engine stall and it slowly moved (took about 40 seconds) from 25 to 35. The problem seems getting worse today. I checked the transmission fluid and it is low, about 1/3 on the dipstick. I checked the ignition wire and it seemed connected fine. I recall that I had the similar problem about 4 years ago. I was told the # 2 spark plug well was filling with oil causing the ignition wire to short out. They replaced the value cover gasket, spark plugs and ignition wires and charged me around three hundred bucks. Would this be the same issue again? Or it is something else?
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This is a carburetor model of the 1988 Honda accord I fixed the vacuum leak, and it is not gummed up from ethenal I still have Idle issue where the car wants to die unless I keep it revved up and when up put it in drive it wants to stall out but i can keep it going by letting of the gas and them giving it more gas. Does the carbonated model have the Idle air control valve and a fast idle valve or is that just on the fuel injection engines. Because every one on line claims this is the areas to look at but I can not find them on my 88 Honda where they explain to find these valves.
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