Honda - Fit :: 2007 - Knocking Noise And Rumbling
Oct 7, 2014
I have a 2007 Fit, and just recently started to have my car rumble, specifically the break pedal, when I break. We got new breaks about two years ago. I'm just wondering what it could be. Another thing is I was driving and some (explative) person decided to pull out in front of me when they really shouldn't have. I slammed on my brakes and had a grinding noise and feel to my car when that happened. Since then when I'm driving slow I get a knocking feeling against the foot area of my passenger seat. What could this be? It is kinda hard to look underneath the car since it is so low so we can't easily see by the wheels or Axel area.
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I am trying to diagnose and engine knock I think. 2007 Honda Ridgeline 3.5 Liter. 257,000 mile. I checked the noise unplugging each coil pack with no change. I ran it without Serpentine belt no change. Here is a link to a video I made with the noise. Best at 30 second mark. [URL] .....
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Top mount noise? I'm starting to get a rumbling/knocking noise on my front driver's side but only at certain speeds (most noticeable 25-40 mph) and on certain roads. Even smooth ones.
It's definitely not a groan or squeak. It almost sounds like the wheel is rubbing on something but the frequency/pitch doesn't change with speed.
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So for the last week my Civic has been making a low, rumbling sound (almost like an overly powerful bass system or a muffler) and vibrating whenever the car is idling from a cold start. The noise is most pronounced when the car is started but continues for a short time while I am driving, but only when I take my foot off of the gas in low RPM (below 1.0k). Whenever I accelerate, the noise stops, but when I go in reverse the noise is becomes louder. Also, the noise is very faint from outside of the car, but very pronounced from inside. After about 20-30 minutes of driving it usually goes away. What could be causing this?
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My Rav4 experiences a low rumbling noise at around 1,500 RPM. The noise disappears if I let off the gas, or speed up. I have brought the vehicle to 3 different repair shops, including a transmission place, and nobody has been able to give me any answers as to what the problem is. One place said that it sounds like it's in the tranny or transfer case, and that it feels/sounds like it's going into the torque converter lockup too early. The vehicle has just over 60K miles on it.
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I purchased a used LS 460L w/ 60k miles after a few months noticed a rumbling sound front end noise took it to dealer was told upper and lower control arms and bushings needed to be replaced at a cost of $4,000. Looking for options have a friend with LS460 w/90k miles no problems must be the L version issue ???
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So, I have 100K miles on a 2007 4Runner (V6) and after having my radiator flushed at the Toyota dealership service dept, I get my car back and now hear a low rumbling noise coming from the engine compartment. I hear this noise every time I turn on the air conditioner, and sometimes even when it's off.
I took my car to Toyota today and after getting the service advisor to acknowledge the noise, I get a call 2 hours later saying, a) that no noise was identified by the technician; b) nothing wrong with my car; and c) I can come pick it up.
It ain't my imagination. Clearly, something is wrong. What it is? Should I take it to another service department? This kind of thing makes me crazy!
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My 2003 CRV has developed a "popping" or "knocking" noise that seems to come from the front end of the car. It doesn't happen all the time but seems to happen more and more. I've read it could be either a sway bar of CV joint issue? I've taken it to our Honda service center and they have checked it over and can't find anything wrong.
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Whenever I make a sharp (think turning into driveway) turn left or right, my car makes a knocking noise. Not a clicking, but I recreated the noise by knocking 2 plastic cups together. 2012 Honda Civic LX.
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So for the last week my Civic has been making a low, rumbling sound (almost like an overly powerful bass system) and vibrating whenever the car is idling. The noise is most pronounced when the car is started but continues when I am driving, but only when I take my foot off of the gas. Whenever I accelerate, the noise stops. Also, the noise is very faint from outside of the car, but very pronounced from inside. What could be causing this?
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[URL] .... My engine has been making this sound for a while now I am at 125000 miles, what it could be and if i need to be worried about it? also, possibly unrelated, it has a SUPER hard time shifting into reverse, it gets stuck and it feels just super sticky shifting in and out of reverse. Sometimes I can't even get it to go into reverse without letting the car roll a bit. Also, at around 3k rpm the engine sounds a little grinder in any gear. 2008 Honda Fit Sport ...
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I have a 2009 AWD Santa Fe with a little over 43K miles. Over the past few months it's developed a knocking noise that is most audible from the front drivers side area. The knocking speeds up or slows according to the car's speed, and appears somewhat louder when the steering wheel is turned. My initial suspicion from my surfing here is either a CV joint or wheel bearing.
I took it to the dealer that sold it to me and am getting increasingly frustrated with their work. The first irritation was yesterday when the service advisor called to say the problem was corroded rear rotors and brake pads; both wear items not covered under warranty. Though skeptical (since I was hearing the noise coming from up front, not from the back) I authorized the $300+ for turning the rotors, replacing brake pads and flushing the brake system.
When I showed up to retrieve the car I was told it'd been test driven and the problem was fixed. I asked the tech specifically whether he'd checked the CV joints and he assured me he had and they were fine. Upon driving away it was immediately obvious the knock was still there. Back to the dealer. I had the tech drive it with me in the passenger seat. He acknowledged he could now heard the knocking, but claimed he previously couldn't hear it over the horrible loud squealing from my rusted rotors; nor had he heard it on his alleged post-fix test drive. The problem with that is I've never heard this claimed horrible loud squealing, nor has my girlfriend, nor have any other regular passengers.
Back at the dealership the situation escalated when the service advisor, in defense of his tech, also claimed the horrible squealing rotors had drowned out any other noises. The problem with that is he admitted he'd not come along on any of the previous claimed test rides, and claimed to have heard the horrible squealing rotors only while the car was in the shop and/or up on the lift while the tech was turning a rear wheel by hand. Err, if the car was not driven any for distance or speed, of course you wouldn't have heard any knocking up front.
Yesterday evening I got a call from the shop advising the problem had now been diagnosed as a bad wheel bearing, front driver's side. I was assured it'd be fixed and ready this afternoon. All well and good. I showed up this afternoon and the service advisor stated the car was just getting buttoned up and we're going to test drive it. Fine, I'd like to come along on the test drive I said. He agreed, asked me to sit in the waiting room. In a few short minutes though - not long enough IMO - he came back out to advise the tech had just test driven the car (without me?!) and the knock is still there.
As of this writing I have no info from them as to what it might be. I left the car with them and asked the service advisor to have the tech(s) double check the CV joints. He got huffy with me and declared that if if the tech said he'd check them, there's no need to do so again. At this point I'm not sure whether I can trust this dealers' service department. I don't think the service advisor is being honest with me - I think he's been caught in a minor fib re: test riding and is compounding the situation by sticking with it.
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I've got a 2000 Accord. I recently started hearing and feeling a hard knocking/clunking noise at the front-center of the car during the correct after a left turn. My trustworthy mechanic told me the subframe is rusted out on the right side and that it isn't safe to drive until the subframe is replaced (he also said he's seen several of these this last year). He suggested that the cause is that the hose leading away or down from the air conditioner is too short, and leaks directly onto the subframe. There is no recall on this problem currently. I've done some Internet research and there is some buzz about this, but not as much as I was hoping for.
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I have a 2007 Prius that was a salvage rebuild. I have owned it close to a year without any issues, Now I have noticed that when its cold, and I press in the brakes, I hear a knock from the rear, and it feels like the brake locks up, it only does it as i am coming to a complete stop, so for instance, going from 60 mph to 40 quickly, its fine, but if i slow down to a full stop, I hear it, and feel it, then it takes a second once i press the accelerator to go again, like, it takes it a second to let go, now if i drive it around for 5 minutes or so, that goes away completely...?
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2009 Santa Fe only 40500 miles ... Should I Be concerned about the noise it has done this since I bought it in 2010 ...
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My new SANTA FE has merely covered 10000 km. The vehicle is running fine except a very irritating loud knocking noise from top of front windshield area. The noise is generated as soon as vehicle goes over a minor irregularity on road or even if you make a sharp right or left turn.
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My 2007 CM Santa Fe 45K miles began acting up intermittently. We have owned it 5 years from new and never any issues whatsoever. My wife told me that first thing in the morning it made a horrible clanking noise and the entire car shuddered so she shut it off. Then it cranked and ran for days normally. The other morning I got in it and cranked it and man, it sounded like rods knocking, pistons slapping the crank, it was awful. Actually it sounded like premature or off time detonation, the engine would not idle and would die.
After a couple more tries the engine cranked and ran smoothly but with increasing idle speed and after two instances of normal cranking but idle increasing ever upward (same morning in sequence of 10 minutes or so of trying) I called AAA and had it carried to the dealer afraid oil pump giving out, timing belt jumped, bad crank / cam sensors, who knows? Oil was changed 5K ago with Hyundai toilet paper filter.
Anyway dealer found a code, something about engine torque excess - who knows - it wasn't causing the horrible cranking idling banging noise... did some ECM/ECU update, and repaired a TSB for the passenger side Airbag seat detector. They kept it over night and still could not make it occur.
My wife is really worried because honestly it sounds like it's going to throw a rod or something *I know it doesn't have them*. It's just a horrible gut wrenching noise. Dealer mechanics could not find anything wrong and they kept it overnight to crank it cold, and when we picked it up today it cranked fine.... She can't trust it anymore.
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I am getting a loud knocking noise from the engine on my Santa Fe. The car is very low mileage of around 51K and has regular service and oil change.
Not sure what has caused this but there is a loud tapping/knocking noise coming from the engine. Have got it locally checked with the garage and Hyundai Workshop also but both have suggested that Oil levels are appropriate and they need to open engine to investigate more.
At a higher RPM the sound becomes more loud and recognizable.
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My car is making this noise. Its only at idle. Doesn't affect fuel economy, just alarming.
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my friends Hyundai Santa-FE 2007 makes a knocking noise like a hammer hitting the engine when she starts the car and drives. What could that be?
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I have santafe 3.5 2012 4WD , it's 51K on odometer, the problem when cold startup , Noise and small vibrate form front side , its look like from gears
When put to reverse (R) sound is louder and strong vibration from front side, all this problem gone when drive about 15 minutes.
I have visit 3 local shop they check the engine, gear box, everything normal, no check indicator appears.
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