Honda - Element :: 2006 - Crankshaft Pulley Removal
May 7, 2011
How do I remove my Honda Element's crankshaft pulley so I can replace the water pump? How hard is this job?
Another question. After removing the wheel and some plastic and looking at the pump I wondered why my Honda manual says I need to remove the crankshaft pulley at all?
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My crankshaft pulley sheared off in kia dealer now is this covered under 100000 mile powertrain warranty. I have 88000 miles on it. Heard this is a common problem with the Sorentos.....
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Cylinder 2 Change plugs, change injector, change Cat and Change OX senor, check compression 165 psi Still can't get this misfire engine light problem to go a way.
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My 2006 honda element was taken into a national tire and repair service that I use often . Told them to check my brakes for grinding sound. They concluded that the brakes were safe but could remove a rust or glazing for x dollars. I refused after they said again they were safe. 9 days and 400 miles later ( going to pick a cemetery plot for my dad ). I felt something funny on my front end .
(Out of nowhere ) at driving slow to make my appt . BANG, my front tire flies off across 4 lanes of traffic . Luckily I was nearly in front of a repair shop. They took it, I and told them to repair it and got a ride to my appt. The next day it was done for 400.00 .. It needed a new wheel because the holes were elongated and various parts . Upon returning to my initial repair shop to get a wheel alignment. They feel it could not be their fault when they removed my tires initially because of the 400 miles since they checked my brakes .
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Had idler pulley, tens pulley, alternator and new belt replaced all within last 5k. Was just looking under the hood while it was running and notice the crankshaft pulley was wobbling. What is the best and worst case scenario?
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On a 96 ford escort 1.9 liter with automatic trans, after replacing the timing belt, how do you tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt when I only have hand tools? It needs 90 or 95 foot pounds but you can't tighten it because the crankshaft just turns around and I can't find a way to lock the crankshaft without causing possible damage to the pulley or putting stress on the new timing belt. I thought of taking out the starter motor and somehow blocking the flywheel but I don't want to cause any damage to the flywheel teeth. Is there a special tool or method to do this???????
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2006 Honda Element 2.4 ... I developed an unknown bad oil leak. Low oil indicator light did not come on. Highway drove it down to one qt. Now blowing blue smoke and lost power. Why my oil light did not come on?
Also, I have needed a purge control valve for quite some time. Could this of caused the oil leak?
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How to remove a crankshaft pulley like this one? It doesn't have any holes for bolts, to hold some soft of breaker bar in place.
Pulley.JPG ....
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The crankshaft pulley on my 2001 Camry in no longer aligned with the other pulleys, so my alternator belt does not stay on...
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I have a 95 Toyota Celica GT which started making a noise today. It does not seem to increase when the engine is revved. The crankshaft pulley seems to have a slight wobble, belt feels tight, does not appear worn. Does not matter if AC is on or off. No performance issues. I'm thinking harmonic balancer replacement.
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I was driving my '93 Ford Escort and it threw off the serpentine belt that I had just replaced. When I went to replace it, I found that I couldn't get the serpentine belt on because the crankshaft pulley was touching the wheel well/car body.
A friend suggested that it is probably an engine mount issue, and I have replaced the front, and passenger side engine mounts, but that has not solved the problem. I'm planning on checking the rear engine mount and the transmission mount, but I was interested in hearing what else might be causing this?
Other details in case they are relevant: It's the 1.9l engine with 5 speed manual transmission. The engine itself seems to be running fine, except that the crank pulley rubs the wheel well.
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Needing to do a timing belt on the Ranger I bought, the crankshaft pulley just feels it needs to be stubborn and not come off easy. I know the front pulley is pushed on and kept in place with a pin, however I think my puller may be too large to fit where it needs to be to pull it off. I want to say I am just pulling an pushing on the same part but not sure. This is my first 4banger vehicle and I have never ran into such a deal even with working on the heavy OTR diesels.
I sprayed things down with Liquid wrench and let it sit while I unloaded and mounted an engine onto a stand last night. I think I might have to buy another puller and reduce the diameter of the pivoting end to fit, which I don't know why Ford would make a pulley on a 4banger engine family different than a 6 or V8 platform. Am I just dealing with a stuck piece?
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Have a 1992 5.7 litre silverado with a screeching noise from the crankshaft pulley when engine is warm and idling. Noise goes away when engine is accelerated. Noise remains on crank pulley when serpentine belt is off pulleys. Did replace tensioner pulley, alternator, and idler pulley. No noise noted when started cold. Serpentine belt is only weeks old no signs of damage. No rough idle or performance changes noted just a annoying noise similar to a turbo but only when no torque is applied.
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The "D" on my 2004 Honda Element has been flashing lately. It has been happening occasionally for the past couple of days. Most of the time when I notice it, I stop, restart the car, and then it stops flashing. The flashing also continues even when it's in park or reverse. Most people on other forums say that it is a transmission issue so what specific transmission issue it is most likely.
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I put my Honda Element in storage for 6 months while traveling. Upon my return I found the battery was dead (expected that) and have that fixed, But, the big problem is the engine light is on steadily, and the car hardly drives. It "pulses" , or wants to go, even with brake on. I have to put it in neutral at stop lights, as I am afraid it may take off. When idling, it pulses. I accelerated while in neutral and the highest i could get it to go was 5k, pulsing the entire time. Someone suggested I put a product into gas tank called Heat.
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I have a 2004 Honda Element with 115,000 miles. The transmission is going. Is it worth it to put another transmission in it? How long does a rebuilt transmission last?
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Three times this winter my car failed to start on cold mornings after sitting in the garage all night. When I return later, it starts perfectly. I have all the interior light turned off. Even though my battery and alternator checked out OK, I went ahead and replaced the battery. The connectors were cleaned and scuffed up for better connection. I had my brake pads replaced last week and once again they said the electrical system and battery were good. This is such a mystery as it only fails to start 1 out of 100 times.
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Whenever I am on wet pavement, and even on a slight incline, my Honda Element shudders a bit before grabbing the pavement. I have the original tires that came with the - used - car, which I bought three years ago. It's not a big problem, but is a slight irritant. Is it a problem with the tires or something more serious?
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Looking for how to's out there on how to get all of the fan shrouding removed? I am trying to do my idler and tensioner pulley bearings and those shrouds really make it tough.
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Need to replace the ac compressor bearing/pulley on my 2001 f350 7.3. My question is do I need a special tool like a pulley puller or is there another way to remove pulley? I already have the clutch assembly removed as well.
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No problems and then at 82000 with no warning, the clutch froze and wouldn't go into gear. I coasted into the dealer and learned, after analysis, that one spring had broken. The clutch still had 40% on it, but one spring had snapped. I saw it. They replaced with a Honda Clutch disk with new pilot bushing, throw-out bearing, rear main seal, pressure plate, and manual transmission fluid. This description is taken from the invoice.
So, my question is, could my driving have caused this? A friend, the other day, said I am waiting too long to shift to 2nd and it could cause the problem, he thought. I usual shift around 3000, but now am shifting from 1st to 2nd at 15mph per manual. I thought the only problem with delaying shifting was poor gas mileage, as long as I didn't go into red, which I don't. I want to prolong the life of this new clutch and want to make sure I am treating it gently.
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