We have a 2005 honda civic hybrid; there is a squealing noise coming from front passenger side, when braking, when accelerating, decelerating, but not while driving at speeds of 30 mph, straight. Also when backing up, turning wheels. It's going to the mechanic on monday for regular maintenance, 100K miles, etc.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2010 Honda Civic with about 67,000 kms. There's a mechanical squealing noise that's started over the last week when I accelerate and turn. It's coming from all 4 wheel areas. It only seems to disappear when I brake. Although if I run/accelerate the car for longer than 5 mins, it disappears as well. Additionally, there's a stretching/groaning noise from the tire area when I reverse. I'm thinking it's probably shock or suspension related.
View 3 RepliesI have an 04Honda Civic manual transmission that suddenly started making an ugly groaning sound whenever i accelerate, apply the brakes, or turn. It sounds like a metal-on-metal noise like something is loose or cracked. It even happens if I turn the steering wheel when the car is stationary. I tried to listen to where it's coming from, but all I can tell is that it's somewhere in the front suspension.
Mechanic said he didn't see anything wrong on the front suspension, but recommended replacing rear control arms.
My 2003 Honda Civic Hybrid (manual) makes a loud squealing noise (between the speeds of about 25 and 45. It usually starts making the noise once the car has warmed up (but does not always make the noise). It makes the noise when the car is coasting but not when I accelerate or brake. The noise seems to be coming from somewhere in the front end.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2010 Honda Civic with about 32K miles on it. Last fall, at around 23K miles, I needed new brake pads and rotors (because I waited too long on the pads). Got those replaced. A few weeks later (I think), it started making a kind of squealing noise when I make left turns. I mentioned it to my mechanic when I took it in for an oil change shortly thereafter, and he said it was probably the belt, but I could wait a bit on replacing it if I wanted to (as he knows I'm always broke).
Three weeks ago, I took the car in for another oil change and to have him change the belt. He put in a new belt, but alas, after driving the car about a mile the noise returned. I called my mechanic, and he said it might be my tensioner, but that such a new tensioner shouldn't need replacing already and that it would still be under warranty. I needed to take it to the dealer anyway because my window mechanism was broken, so while I was there, I had him check out the tensioner. He also said the tensioner was fine, and said that since the belt wasn't a HONDA belt (naturally), that might be making the noise. Last week, I took the car back to the mechanic, who ordered and installed a Honda factory belt free of charge.
Naturally, a mile later, the noise returned. I resisted every urge to drive into oncoming traffic. I used my phone to record the sound so that I could e-mail it to the dealer and my mechanic, give it a listen: [URL] ....
2005 2.3Liter 4wd Mariner, 225k miles
I have been experiencing clunk noise on the front end when braking or accelerating and turning wheels.
I have replaced: front control arms, ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings and stabilizer links and 2 days ago I replaced strut mounts and bearings.
The steering is smooth after the strut mounts replaced but I can still hear cluck noise mostly on left now when going over bumps, braking and accelerating.
Car also has new engine/trans mounts.
I am so lost right now because I cannot figure out what is it. The only thing I didn't replace are the struts but the I test them and they seem to function fine.
I have an '08 Civic Mugen and recently replaced my HID's. Soon after I noticed a buzzing noise that gets louder as I accelerate.
View 2 RepliesMy Civic started to make high pitch noise when turning right or left, and also when accelerating. It makes more noise when I keep the wheels turning but ceases the noise when I let the handle go and go straight. When accelerating, it ceases the noise as it reaches 30 mph or so. It has got 93000 miles on it. It started the noise about 10 months ago and I feel like it increased the noise over the time. I don't drive everyday and I try to drive my wife's Prius when I drive since it has better gas milage. But this noise is quite annoying and wonder what it is.
View 6 RepliesI purchased a new Pilot in June. With every acceleration or braking I heard significant creaking. After two visits to the dealer I was told it was an issue with the a-frame. I continue to have all kinda of noises, increasing with colder temps. Every bump, rough road, etc, brings creaks, pops, rattling in the dashboard/windshield area, window seals, rear-end area. What could have caused the issue initially? Two people in the industry think it was damaged in transit. The first service was around 2,500 miles. It just turned 9,000 with 4-5 service visits.
View 5 RepliesWhen decelerating and braking, there is a strange clicking noise, and it seems to be coming from the brakes in some way on my 2002 Accent. It does sound like a metal clicking. Steering doesn't affect it, it happens on a corner or on the motorway. The only way to stop it is accelerate. The clicking is faster when the car is going faster, and slower when the car is going slower. The brake pedal isn't vibrating or anything, and I cant actually feel it.
I am certain this is a braking issue as it only started just after I got new brake pads about 2 months ago. It is not transmission related or anything like that. I have had some suggestions about axle's and CV joints but I doubt it's either of those as they are in good condition, and as I said, this started directly after having new brake pads installed!
Recently, my Check Engine and IMA Check lights both came on. My Honda garage tech advised me that the code revealed "Battery Deterioration". The code was cleared and when the car was restarted both lights had gone off and have not come back on....yet (10 days ago). Eventually, I know the lights will reappear and I will have to commit (or do I?) to a new battery. The battery installed would run about $2500 dollars. A question occurs to me now that didn't when I was at the garage. Would that car function normally without the IMA? I know the mileage would drop but would I still be able to drive the car?
View 4 RepliesI had my rotors turned and pads replaced 2 years and approx. 11k miles ago, now I have a violent vibration when I brake. The new mechanic is saying the rotors are warped. Can this be so? I'm very easy on brakes...really. The car is an 2005 Honda Civic with 74k miles. Did I get ripped off by the last mechanic?
View 7 RepliesI've got a 2006 Honda Civic Hybrid with Navigation. This morning, the navigation system did not turn on, and the screen- which is also the screen for the radio- does not work. I can still listen to the radio, but I have to use the steering wheel controls to operate, and I have to use the voice command to turn the radio on and off... the navigation screen is completely inoperable. To be honest, the only idea I have is that the fuse needs replacing?
View 4 RepliesHave owned a 2014 LS460 since April. Ever since then, when accelerating decelerating between 1000 and 3000 rpm, we hear a whining and grinding noise.
View 9 RepliesI have an issue with my 98 honda civic lx, with 197000 mils. Recently I had my Check engine light on. I ignored it for a day. The next day started my car and in the middle of the road it stopped moving, meaning in spite of accelerating it doesn't move. So I stopped at the shoulder, turned off the engine. After a while I started again, the car moved but later on it stopped moving when I was accelerating. The Engine did not turn off during the stall. Couple of weeks back the car was shaking on the front side when I was driving, it felt like the car was about to stop as if it was short of fuel.I changed the spark plug 15000 miles back. Water pump and timing belt was changed 25000 miles back.Car has a highway mileage of 32 mpg.
View 4 RepliesJust had engine replaced by dealership due to oil plug coming out on highway and subsequent engine damage (their fault).As soon I picked it up, felt left to right vibration going from front to back during acceleration.Took it back to dealership. They balanced/rotated tires and checked alignment (they said within specs). Still feeling vibration and so did technician who rode with me.The service advisor pulls me over and said that per the "Honda Master Mechanic" they spoke to via phone, vibration is being caused by engine timing not being correct because, being it it had to be reset, the computer needs 500 miles to set it correctly. Does this sound like bull to you to? I'm thinking damaged strut when they dropped front end to install engine or motor mount.
View 3 RepliesI brought my car to one of those "quick change" places to get the oil and transmission fluid changed (the CVT is notorious for needing regular transmission fluid changes). Less than 2 weeks later, after several hundred miles of driving, the car was barely drivable. I brought it back. When they checked on their computer, it turned out they had put in regular transmission fluid instead of CVT fluid. They flushed and refilled transmission a bunch of times. I was there, watching, so I know the work was done - and the car worked fine for about 2 weeks. Then it started to act up again. I brought it back again, and they flushed it twice more, but now it's acting up again after only 2 days.
By "acting up," I mean shifting out of or into park, reverse, or drive is really, really stiff, and the car "lurches" at certain points when driving, both at low speed and at highway speeds. It's worst in stop & go traffic - attempting to stall when we come to a stop. If you try to manually shift into "L," it doesn't go, or rather it will go into low most of the way, but not quite far enough for the little light that says it's actually in low to light up. If the last two instances since the wrong fluid change are any indication, it won't be long before it fails to go into "L" no matter how hard I pull on the shifter, which also means it's going to start stalling again when I come to a stop.
They've been really, really nice about all this, and I've wanted to try to save the transmission - if for no other reason than to prevent the kid who made the mistake from being fired in this awful economy. It's a big name company, and I have a feeling they're not going to be very understanding of an honest mistake up at "corporate HQ." At the same time, however, I need my car to work.
Is there something else to try that could save the transmission? I know it can't be taken apart and rebuilt, because on this model car, the transmission core is completely sealed and is not serviceable. Or is it too far gone - should I ask for a new transmission?
I had the Honda recommended software upgrade done on the car in July 2010 and have taken it back twice to two different Honda dealers more than once. The gas mileage has dropped from 44 to 40 consistently for the same route and driving conditions on my daily commute. Worst still the car's power has suffered as the battery does not kick in as often so it struggles going up a hill. The battery is in charge mode more quickly at roughly 50% life so it is not available to boost the power, prior it would not stsrt recharging until much lower like 20% left. In fact I have had to turn around on hills that it could manuever before as it would not go up hill after the upgrade. I have spoken to several other drivers of the same model that say they have the same problem. The software upgrade was to lengthen the life of the battery pack not kill the power and MPG of the car. Any recommendtaions on how to fix since Honda is of no assistance?
View 3 RepliesI have a 35 mile (70 round trip) commute to work, all highway. I do some in town driving as well, but mainly the commuting. The price of gas is getting higher and I was thinking of getting a hybrid, but wonder if that is the best choice for my type of commute ? I drive a Honda CRV (04) which I love but maybe something smaller like a Civic would be better. I need room to occasionally put my 3 kids and hubby in and I want to feel safe in the snow.
View 13 Repliesmy brand new honda was recently involved in a really bad accident. It was in the shop for almost 2 months and had issues everywhere because I was t-boned. I just got it back a few weeks ago and recently it started to make a humming or ringing sound as i accelerate and start to slow down. You can even feel a slight vibration on my gas pedal and its making me very concerned since it was completely quiet prior to the accident. Thoughts? I would probably take it back to the shop that fixed it considering this would be their issue since they fixed it improperly and the length it took to fix was ridiculous.
View 4 RepliesMy 98 honda civic (automatic) makes a rattle sound from the front of the car when it shifts (accelerating) it doesn't seem to cause any problems but I would like to know if it's a problem and should get it checked out?
View 5 Replies