Honda Civic Hybrid :: Navigation System Did Not Turn On
Jan 24, 2011
I've got a 2006 Honda Civic Hybrid with Navigation. This morning, the navigation system did not turn on, and the screen- which is also the screen for the radio- does not work. I can still listen to the radio, but I have to use the steering wheel controls to operate, and I have to use the voice command to turn the radio on and off... the navigation screen is completely inoperable. To be honest, the only idea I have is that the fuse needs replacing?
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Recently, my Check Engine and IMA Check lights both came on. My Honda garage tech advised me that the code revealed "Battery Deterioration". The code was cleared and when the car was restarted both lights had gone off and have not come back on....yet (10 days ago). Eventually, I know the lights will reappear and I will have to commit (or do I?) to a new battery. The battery installed would run about $2500 dollars. A question occurs to me now that didn't when I was at the garage. Would that car function normally without the IMA? I know the mileage would drop but would I still be able to drive the car?
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2012 Prius five Navigation system not giving verbal turn by turn instructions last 3 miles to destination. Also failed on new Prius at dealer. Toyota corp said navigation is working as designed.
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Just had engine replaced by dealership due to oil plug coming out on highway and subsequent engine damage (their fault).As soon I picked it up, felt left to right vibration going from front to back during acceleration.Took it back to dealership. They balanced/rotated tires and checked alignment (they said within specs). Still feeling vibration and so did technician who rode with me.The service advisor pulls me over and said that per the "Honda Master Mechanic" they spoke to via phone, vibration is being caused by engine timing not being correct because, being it it had to be reset, the computer needs 500 miles to set it correctly. Does this sound like bull to you to? I'm thinking damaged strut when they dropped front end to install engine or motor mount.
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I brought my car to one of those "quick change" places to get the oil and transmission fluid changed (the CVT is notorious for needing regular transmission fluid changes). Less than 2 weeks later, after several hundred miles of driving, the car was barely drivable. I brought it back. When they checked on their computer, it turned out they had put in regular transmission fluid instead of CVT fluid. They flushed and refilled transmission a bunch of times. I was there, watching, so I know the work was done - and the car worked fine for about 2 weeks. Then it started to act up again. I brought it back again, and they flushed it twice more, but now it's acting up again after only 2 days.
By "acting up," I mean shifting out of or into park, reverse, or drive is really, really stiff, and the car "lurches" at certain points when driving, both at low speed and at highway speeds. It's worst in stop & go traffic - attempting to stall when we come to a stop. If you try to manually shift into "L," it doesn't go, or rather it will go into low most of the way, but not quite far enough for the little light that says it's actually in low to light up. If the last two instances since the wrong fluid change are any indication, it won't be long before it fails to go into "L" no matter how hard I pull on the shifter, which also means it's going to start stalling again when I come to a stop.
They've been really, really nice about all this, and I've wanted to try to save the transmission - if for no other reason than to prevent the kid who made the mistake from being fired in this awful economy. It's a big name company, and I have a feeling they're not going to be very understanding of an honest mistake up at "corporate HQ." At the same time, however, I need my car to work.
Is there something else to try that could save the transmission? I know it can't be taken apart and rebuilt, because on this model car, the transmission core is completely sealed and is not serviceable. Or is it too far gone - should I ask for a new transmission?
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I had the Honda recommended software upgrade done on the car in July 2010 and have taken it back twice to two different Honda dealers more than once. The gas mileage has dropped from 44 to 40 consistently for the same route and driving conditions on my daily commute. Worst still the car's power has suffered as the battery does not kick in as often so it struggles going up a hill. The battery is in charge mode more quickly at roughly 50% life so it is not available to boost the power, prior it would not stsrt recharging until much lower like 20% left. In fact I have had to turn around on hills that it could manuever before as it would not go up hill after the upgrade. I have spoken to several other drivers of the same model that say they have the same problem. The software upgrade was to lengthen the life of the battery pack not kill the power and MPG of the car. Any recommendtaions on how to fix since Honda is of no assistance?
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I have a 35 mile (70 round trip) commute to work, all highway. I do some in town driving as well, but mainly the commuting. The price of gas is getting higher and I was thinking of getting a hybrid, but wonder if that is the best choice for my type of commute ? I drive a Honda CRV (04) which I love but maybe something smaller like a Civic would be better. I need room to occasionally put my 3 kids and hubby in and I want to feel safe in the snow.
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We have a 2005 honda civic hybrid; there is a squealing noise coming from front passenger side, when braking, when accelerating, decelerating, but not while driving at speeds of 30 mph, straight. Also when backing up, turning wheels. It's going to the mechanic on monday for regular maintenance, 100K miles, etc.
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I have had my 2013 Santa Fe Sport exactly one month. Before I drove it off the dealer's lot the Navigation system was dead and would not turn on. The salesman could not get it turned on either. So he drove the car into the service bay, shut off the engine, opened the door and had a service writer come to the car. They got in the car and the unit worked. The same thing happened again 30 days later. I pulled off the road, turned off the engine. Waited a few moments and restarted the engine. Still dead. I turned off the engine again, opened the door and waited 30 seconds. Got back in and started the car and it worked fine. I talked to the dealer about this and they have no knowledge of the issue.
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I'm finding the nav. system on my o7 limited tribeca hard to use. First of all, I can't figure out how to turn it off. It seems to always require a destination, and the only thing I can do to avoid it binging and trying to redirect me is to turn the sound off. Any way to tell the computer "I don't need direction to this trip"? Also the only time I've tried to use it, thr route it took me on used only surface streets, even though the freeway and a tollroad were nearby and I had entered "allow tollroads".
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I just realized that I should be hearing the nav system giving me audible turn notifications. And I haven't been getting them. I have a destination entered, and am in the middle of being guided.
Having the audio system on/off makes no difference
I have the voice guides turned on (via Menu screen)
I have the voice volume set at 7 (via Menu screen)
Turning the speed-adaptive volume on/off makes no difference (via Menu screen)
I am on what seems to be the original DVD disc (v3.0?) that came with the car
I have what appears to be a dealer/aftermarket installed rear entertainment system (not OEM)
So:Does the nav system audio have it's own speaker and dedicated channel in the ML amplifier? Or perhaps it's own amplifier
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Is it possible to turn off the display screen for the Nav system? I mean turn it completely off, so the screen is dark.
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I just purchase my 2013 ES 350. Now got home and now I realized I don't know how do I turn on the navigation system without starting the car engine. I am sure there is a way to do that but I don't know how.
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Inserted updated nav disc as directed in nav disc slot, closed door. Now the disc is stuck in the scan-disc mode and the load/eject button doesn't work on it. Wondering if there is a way to force eject the disc or other way to unstick it. You can hear the disc 'whirring' briefly as if it is trying to eject, but is stuck. It does this over and over. That's the only sound; none of the other buttons are responsive.
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I have a 2005 honda civic. About a month ago it started overheating. Drives Ok on the highway but heats up to the H mark almost as soon as I get off the highway. Have replaced the water pump, thermostat, radiator, flushed the system, most hoses, fan, 2 sensors, timing belt, spark plugs and had the head gasket checked 3 times by 2 different shops. Both said it was fine. The mechanic that has done most of the work is baffled. Says he has never seen anything like this and is at a loss as to what to do next. I am supposed to drive this car halfway across the country in a week to meet my husband who is in the air force. Should I just sell this piece of junk!?
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My 1998 Honda Civic has been dormant in my drive way for about a month and a half with very little gas. I went out to try to start it the other day and it struggled for a bit and never turned over. It isn't the batter considering the headlights and radio work just fine, thus I sought out the nearby gas station and attempted to solve the problem by putting gas in it, yet when I returned and emptied out my gas can into the tank it was the same ol' story. What it could be?
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It's in a target parking lot. When I turn the key, the wind shield wipers come on, the radio and the ac comes on but it won't even try to turn over... Nothing.
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I have a 1995 Honda civic. It blew the PGM-fi fuse after installing a working horn. Then the car wouldn't turn off. It was In Park I removed the key and the engine and brake lights were still on. When I completely disconnect the gauge assembly the car will then shut off with the key. When the gauge assembly is connected engine won't shut off, brake lights stay on and speedometer won't work. I read a few tips in an online form- I tried unplugging the alternator while the car was in off position (engine still running) this had no effect.
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My car dash board will start up when i turn over the key but thats all it will do i dont even get the sound like its about to start it was just working yesterday what do i check...
Honda civic lx 1992
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I have a 2002 Honda civic, standard, that I bought second hand in March this year which is running great except the A/C all summer would just turn off randomly and then after anywhere from 10min to an hour later come back on. I had it checked out and they said it was a leak, filled it up and put the special dye and it worked great for a month then started again. When they checked it again there were no leaks, so assuming its the compressor. Being near winter I decided to leave it until next year but now I've noticed when I turn the front windshield defroster on and put the temp dial to heat, the A/C light comes on! Every time and it wont turn off. It doesn't matter if I've put it all the way to heat or cold - if its on the windshield or windshield and foot vent the A/C is on. I think I can hear the A/C running too. If I change the dial from the windshield to the feet vents only or whatever the A/C stays on until I push the button to turn it off but it will turn off at this point.
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I have a 97 Civic. I ran errands all day today, my last stop was the grocery store. When I came out, my car wouldn't start. When I turned the key, I didn't hear a "click" like a dead battery, it whirred until I turned the key completely in the ignition then it died. I turned on the radio and it was reset to 87 and the clock said 1:00. So obviously, something completely died in the car to reset my radio. I got a jump but that didn't work. My car still wouldn't start even though my headlights and radio turn on. I'm taking a mechanic with me. The gentleman that gave me the jump said it's probably my alternator or starter, do you think it could be something easy like a little blown fuse?
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