Honda - CR-V :: Shifting Auto Trans While Moving
Apr 22, 2014
Can any automatic transmission possibly be harmed by shifting from Neutral to Drive while rolling forward at around 30mph, or from Neutral to Reverse while rolling slowly (less than 5 mph) backward?I only ask because my new CRV makes a very slight sort of grinding sound when I do the N to D rolling shift, and the backward N to R rolling shift causes it to act as if it just stays in Neutral for several seconds, instead of promptly engaging Reverse. The manual of course says nothing about this. I thought all automatics were just fine with being shifted from Neutral to Drive or Reverse while moving, as long as you were headed in the right direction.
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After car warms and while driving trans moves to 3rd gear and stays ??
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The auto trans on my SL has been shifting hard and jerking lately, and the other night it wouldn't shift into 4th at all and I got a CEL code having to do with the transmission solenoid. So to my question; how hard is this solenoid to replace, and were is it located? Also, need to get part number? Additionally, I check the fluid every few weeks so I know that's good, and it seems to get worse (more jerky) when its hot.
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1999 Jetta MK4 with only 124k miles on it. Everything is fine with the car except when the car shifts from 2nd to 3rd it is jerky/violent/forceful everything else is good with car except check engine light is on but I don't really care about that and I'll go check with autozone to see what the code is. I am able to feather the gas when I know its going to shift and I can make the shift pretty smooth. My question to all the experts is does this mean that this tranny is on its last leg or does it still have a lot of life left in it. My old Cabriolet did it for years and never was a problem.
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I read another blog on here about stratus not shifting and decided to ask someone about my limp mode problem. A few months ago I was driving uphill when it jerked before it got into limp mode. I thought maybe the hot weather caused it(it was 95 deg). I let it sit overnight. and the next day car was fine. for about 3-4 months. Now it got into limp mode only after it goes through all the gears once only. When i come to a stop it will go into limp again. Got a 0700 and 0760 codes. My speedometer works. tach works. Basically everything works as it should.
I decided to change the ATF and filter, both speed sensors and i get the same old codes after a drive around the block. I then decided to remove the neg terminal overnight. Next day I would have no signal at the data link port. When i removed the key from the ignition my dash lights for the mileage will stay on for another 3-4 seconds before disappearing. I checked the ground wires to the PCM and TCM which are good. Fuses and relays are also good. I even swapped some of them. Still no change. 1997 stratus 2.4 auto...
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We have a newly acquired Honda wagon, 16 valve, PGM FI, auto trans, that revs while idling. It sometimes does it when cold buy also hot. It increases it's idle to 1500 and drops revs to 1100 about every 6 seconds. Normal idle seems high at 110.
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My wife and I test drove a 2012 Avalon Limited at our local dealership. It was a demo that they were selling as a new Toyota at a $5,000 discounted price.
We loved the TAL but we found that moving of the automatic stick shift to be a little bit awkward. This bothered my wife more than me. We had to move the auto shift stick from side to side and then forward and backward to go between Park, Reverse, and Drive.
On our 1988 Toyota Supra that we still love to drive, the auto shifting between Park, Reverse, and Drive, and the lower Drives is easy. You just move the automatic stick shift forward and and back to change gears. It was the same on our 1988 Toyota Celica GTS, another wonderful car that we sold to a friend recently.
We should have asked the salesman about the automatic transmission stick shift but we asked lots of other questions instead.
So what can you share with us from your experience? Did you get used to moving the auto shift stick from gear to gear easily? Is there a safety reason for this shifting alignment?
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Passat moving forward very slightly every few seconds while stopped with auto stop button engaged? It happened twice to me today on a flat surface.
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2001 4.0 4x4 auto trans... Problem, tranny judders when coming to a stop moving at around 3-4mph. Engine drops to around 500rpm and maybe one second later returns to normal as the tranny seems to disengage. No judder or shifting problem when accelerating.
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'06 Camry base 4 cylinder. How do you shift auto trans into "L"?
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I was driving to work this morning on the highway and noticed my car was running at 3500 RPMs while I'm going 65... kind of odd, right? drop it into tiptronic, shows fourth, I shift up to 5th, and drop it back into "drive." A few seconds later I laid off the accelerator as the road started going downhill, and the car downshifted to 4th while I'm going 65... Back to tiptronic, shift up to 5th again, then shift back over to Drive.
I then accelerated a little as the road started going up hill, and the car downshifted AGAIN for no reason while I'm doing 70!!!! I wasn't laying on it at all either, very grandpa-like driving.... I've never driven an automatic car before, so maybe this is normal - but it doesn't seem normal. Once I got off the highway the car drove fine, but i dunno whats up. It's a v6 with 107k on it....
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I recently purchased as used 2006 F-150 Lariat 4x4 with 77K miles. I am having an issue with the shift on the fly, I had a vacuum leak that was causing the auto hubs to make noise on occasion but it has never allowed me to shift from 2wd to 4H while moving. I have replaced the IWE solenoid and repaired the vacuum leak but it still will not engage while moving. The light for 4H comes on but the hubs will not engage. The dealer where I purchased the vehicle is not a ford dealership and whey have been trying to solve the problem but to no avail.
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In the last couple of months I have noticed my '10 Prius III begins to roll forward or backwards about a foot depending upon which drive mode I select without releasing the brake. So here's the normal scenario I get in the car have my foot on the brake, turn it on wait for the ready beep/light, my foot has never left the brake or lessened pressure but not so much as to trigger the hill assist, I shift into D to go forward but say a car is coming and I don't want to go yet my car moves about a foot forward and I feel the brake pump up and then resist my foot. The same thing happens if I put it in R she rolls back a foot and stops. I don't recall noticing it before the great ECU update but I also can't say it didn't happen before the update was accomplished.
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I have had the habit of manually shifting down to slow my 2005 GX since new. Only have 55,000 mi so not really a high mileage or worn out yet.
Now the other day there was a resistance moving into or out of a gear (can't remember which) at a time where I needed to get moving so used some extra oomph to try to complete the change and seemed to have a resistance ..... and then felt what I guess was something plastic break.
Now the selector does not stay in 4th when moved left but springs back to "D". Also feels as if the spring resistance is less. All seems looser.
What am I looking at for repair and what is really amiss? Where is a diagram to see the broken parts and how to access it? ---- Part #?
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I have an '04 Camry with auto trans that has developed a whine in 1st gear, not noticeable in the higher gears. Is this normal and nothing to be concerned about or is corrective action needed. I have searched other threads but none with this particular issue. I have 50,000 miles and the trans has not been serviced other than checking for normal fluid level and color/smell.
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I have a 13' GT with an automatic trans and 15,000 miles.
While getting onto the highway yesterday I was in D (not + -) and I was probably in 4th gear and hit the gas pedal maybe 60-70% down and my rpms shot straight to 6-7k but I didn't get any acceleration. I let the rpms drop and it drove fine after. Pretty sure I was smelling burnt clutch too (kind of unfamiliar with that scent, I've never slipped a clutch before).
I should probably take it to the dealer for them to look at it, but am worried it will be a 1-2 week thing and I'm not sure if I'd get a loaner.
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A friend of my brother swapped an auto trans OUT of his 98 passat (2.8 L) WITH a trans code EZZ and now its stuck in 3rd and in safe mode... What could be the cause??
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My 2001 F250 5.4 has started to make a screeching sound. It only happens when it is in gear (auto) moving forwards or in reverse, and increases in pitch relative to engine speed rather than road speed, and is much more noticeable under mild to moderate acceleration. Maybe I actually mean transmission input speed?
When simply maintaining road speed, it is almost silent. Anyway, if I drop it into neutral while driving, the sound stops, and starts again when I put it back into gear.
From the drivers seat and with the windows closed, it sounds as though it is coming from the engine bay at steering column height, although this is really tough to gauge while actually looking where I am going. With windows open, it comes from both sides of the vehicle.
1st thought is tranny......
2nd thought is a water pump bearing, although there are no apparent cooling problems or leaks.
3rd thought is the alternator bearing, although there are no charging problems.
I say alternator because I recently changed the serpentine belt and noticed that the alternator made a very faint screech-like sound when spun without the belt on it. The main screech was there before I changed the belt. Maybe it gets really loud under load?
So I'm kinda scratching my bean and wondering what expensive piece of mechanics I'm going to shell out for next. If it's #2 or #3, I can do those myself, but if it's #1.... it likely means more money than I have to spare.
I did wonder about removing the serpentine belt and driving a very short distance (end of the driveway and back) to see if I can remove the pulleys, tensioner or other belt driven parts from the equation. Maybe this is not such a smart idea. I'm somewhat at a loss right now.
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I have a 2008 F-150. When moving gear selector from park to either reverse or drive, trans has a delay engaging. After engagement, it runs fine, shifts ok, downshifts ok....
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I am hearing a clicking sound when shifting and perhaps an unrelated but similar click when I am pressing the gas peddle from a stop. Perhaps a CV joint? I'm taking the car in to the dealer (approximately 79,000 km or 48,000 miles) on the 20th to give the car a once over.
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Why my 2010 auto trans 4cyl Camry often feels like someone is applying the foot brake when I take my foot off the accelerator? Is it the auto trans downshifting? When I feel it occur and slip it into neutral, it releases and I coast freely again. It's really annoying sometimes especially as I've been driving a 1995 Camry auto for the past 15 years which does not do this.
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