Honda - CR-V :: Odd Noise That Sounds Like Wheel Bearing When Accelerating From A Dead Stop
Aug 5, 2012
I am going to buy a cheap 2004 CRV from work. They think it needs a wheel bearing, and it might.. However I think the sounds we are hearing is a bad motor mount. When accelerating from a dead stop it makes an odd noise that sounds like a wheel bearing, but it is quiet at speed and while jerking the wheel.. There is no weerrweerwerrr... In Drive if you have your foot on the brake, and hit the gas the motor rocks back further than I think it should. After looking at the mounts themselves though, the only one that looks bad is the driver’s side trans mount (near the air box). It looks like the rubber is broken.. So If that is my bad mount would the motor still rock, or could I have another bad one somewhere??
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I have a Mk6 GTI 2010 and recently there has been some noise coming from the rear of the car and the noise changes with speed and sounds similar to a wheel bearing.. So I jacked up the rear and found that there was play in the passenger rear wheel.. The bolt holding the hub together was tight..
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I'm experiencing an unusual grinding noise when accelerating from a dead stop but only in this specific situation.
1. When battery is at a low state of charge and the AC is on, therefore, whenever I slightly step on the gas the engine will immediately start.
2. Only under this condition, when I slightly press on the gas and the engine will start to charge the battery and propel the car at the same, there is a slight grinding noise coming from the front of the car. I don't know what this noise is, it sounds like gears grinding, it's very light though.
I know it's not the brake accumulator noise, because that's a whole different sound, and also this only happens under the condition I described above. When battery is low and ac is on, and the engine will need to start right away even when gas peddle is slightly depressed.
The best way to describe the sound is if you were to take a soda can and cut it in half and rub the two halves together (the edges) it sounds like that.
Also, there are no lights on the dash. It's a 2009 with about 73,400 miles.
The transaxle oil has already been changed maybe 10,000 miles ago.
The noise started recently, at least I only noticed it recently since it's summer and I have the ac on much more. There are no drivability issues, but the thing is, this noise was not there before, I know I'm not hearing things. You know when you drove a car for quite some time you will naturally know what sounds are normal and what sounds are new.
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Sometimes, when I take off from a red light or stop sign, my car makes a thump. This feels as if it is under the car, not a transmission shift noise. It would seem to me that it has to do with exhaust or fuel???? I am guessing.
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I have a 98 Audi A6. Immediately when I hit the accelerator from a dead stop I hear a slight bang that seems to come from under the car in the area under the front drivers seat. It only happens when I hit the gas and the car starts forward. I'm not putting the pedal to the floor either, just a nice gradually start from a dead stop. This is the only time that I hear this noise, nothing while driving or making turns. The noise sounds like when you might squeeze and empty tin box! that distinct bang you hear. What might this be?
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My wife and I are new Elantra owners, car is just about to hit 9000 miles on it. I don't know when the noise started happening, but wasn't too long ago. My wife is okay with it, but as for me I find it rather annoying that the car is so new and already making noises. I call it a click but she describes it as a thunk.
Here's the details. The car is an automatic for starters. The noise mainly happens when accelerating from a dead stop. I'll be at a red light and when it turns green, I let the brake go and gently step on the gas and click...there is the noise. Its just a single click, loud enough to annoy me and loud enough that I could hear it when the radio volume is set to 12 or so.
It has also happened mid driving when I release the gas pedal to slow down without using the brakes. Right when I release it, I hear the click...once again a single click.
Now I have taken it to the dealer as a concern because that click wasn't there when I bought the car. They told me it was normal and after waiting 2 hours for a simple oil change to be completed I wasn't ready to argue with them. But I am getting to that point that I'm ready to argue with them, considering the car is so new and still under the warranty.
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Intermittent chirping noise when accelerating from a stop. It sounds like a brake chirp but it comes and goes. Not brakes. Changed pads and turned rotors chirp is still there.
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This auto has 143,000 miles on it. I recenty noticed a creaking noise from the left front when accelerating from a dead stop. The shop I have used for 15 years said that the motor mounts are deteriorating and should be replaced. I trust the guy but would like to avoid the $1,400 repair. There are no symptoms other than the ocassional noise.
What is the downside of ignoring his recommendation? What other symptoms can I expect if I delay the repair? Can this be a serious safety issue? I plan to keep the car for another two years unless I bite the dust first or the engine falls out.
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I have a 2002 Extended Cab F150 2WD 5.4L 3.55 Open. I have recently begun to notice a clunking or "sounds like something mechanical shifting" when I come to a stop or take my foot off the brake before accelerating (as in, when the light turns green.) The shocks are shot, so, some of the noise when I stop is likely due to bounce back, but the noise when I take my foot off the brake is clearly not related to suspension relaxation.
I jacked up the front, passenger corner and checked the wheel play. I immediately noticed wheel play in both 12/6 and 9/3 hand positions. First thought was obviously ball joints, but when I looked more closely I found that the steering knuckle itself was not moving at all. (I only had one corner jacked up, so, the torsion bar might have been stabilizing the steering knuckle to some degree, but...nonetheless, the wheel play is still there.)
So, the wheel play is between the wheel/rotor, and the steering knuckle. To me this suggests wheel bearings. But, I'm not sure how much play is allowable between the wheel and the spindle. Should the rotor/wheel move at all with respect to the spindle/steering knuckle? How much is okay? Does movement suggest I need to replace the wheel bearings? (I installed the rotor and wheel bearings myself last year.)
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I just purchased a 2000 Hyundai Accent. I was told it has a bad wheel bearing on the front driver's side. I am assuming that would be the clicking sound that associates with speed. I was told the cv joints or axles were replaced but have a leak. I couldn't see a filler hole or one to check from. I also don't see fluid under the car from parked. Also, there is a humming which sounds like knobby mud tires. The humming disappears during hard right turns.
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I recall some folks (with certain VIN#s) getting a TSP for correcting the lag when accelerating from a dead stop. I asked my dealer about it during routine service several months ago, but no fix at that time.
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my brand new honda was recently involved in a really bad accident. It was in the shop for almost 2 months and had issues everywhere because I was t-boned. I just got it back a few weeks ago and recently it started to make a humming or ringing sound as i accelerate and start to slow down. You can even feel a slight vibration on my gas pedal and its making me very concerned since it was completely quiet prior to the accident. Thoughts? I would probably take it back to the shop that fixed it considering this would be their issue since they fixed it improperly and the length it took to fix was ridiculous.
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Our 2015 es350 with 2,500 miles hesitates when accelerating from a dead stop, such as from a stop light. We are told this is to be expected with this vehicle. The dealership test-drove the car and say there's no problem. But this hesitation is unlike any other car we've experienced.
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I have a 1991 Audi 100 that is flawless and paid for. 215,000 miles and doesn't leak or use a drop of any vital fluid. It does have one problem: While under load and accelerating from a dead stop, about 75% of the time the engine hesitates as if it is not getting any fuel. You step on the accelerator, get no response for one second and then off you go, no problem. On occasion while accelerating from a dead stop, the engine will quickly cough, pop like a backfire, and then catch. I have replaced the fuel filter, and through accident inadvertently found out that I seem to have excellent fuel pressure. While at speed, I seem to have little or no problem with instant acceleration when the accelerator is pressed.
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Bought an 05 FX4 SuperCab in May - been in shop twice for a "clunking" sound when accelerating from a dead stop. Dealer says it's "operating as intended" and that no damage was being if I continue to drive. I thought it was a rear problem with the limited slip. Dealer says it's the tranny and that Ford is looking into the problem (apparently quite a few are coming back). She runs smooth and shifts fine once she gets going. Just starting from a complete stop feels painfully wrong.
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20thae with a UR 7lb flywheel and spec stage 3 clutch. Got rid of the dual mass flywheel and installed a lightweight flywheel and spec clutch now i have a god awful noise that is dead ringer for a throw out bearing noise. talked to the spec guy at waterfest today and he told me that the dual mass acts as a dampener and this just doesn't make any sense in my head. touch the clutch pedal in any gear at any speed and the noise disappears.. uy at spec said it was in the trans and the only option was to change for a thicker gear oil. p.s. i took out the clutch and everything back apart and measured everything is oem thickness and the throw out bearing is in good shape.
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I just took my car in to have my tires balanced and rotated, and the tire place said my front left wheel bearing is coming loose. The guy said it isn't dangerous, and that I'll eventually hear a rumbling sound. I'm wondering if this is a fair price for the repair, and how soon I need to take care of this. Also, at some point I'm going to need to have my front rotors turned/replaced, but my brother said I don't need brake pads yet. Since I'm fairly clueless about this stuff, I'm wondering if I should deal with the rotors at the same time as the wheel bearing, or wait until the brake pads need to be replaced.
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So on my girlfriends 2000 echo I get the classic bad wheel bearing noise/vibration on the front left (driver side) wheel. Worsens under load (right turn) and goes away when unloaded (left turn). I've replaced left side bearing, CV axle, brake rotors/pads and the noise still persists. My next thought is maybe the ball joint but humming/vibration tells me something out of rotational balance. Bearing in the transmission? I don't know. I'm stuck.
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I want to understand this. If I am stopped, take hands off the wheel and do a jack rabbit start the wheel almost always turns right. Tried that on flat parking lots and roads cambered each way.
Tires are few months old, all suspension in order (reman rack and pinion + outer tie rods back in august). When cruising everything seems fine, the steering is centered and the car tracks straight.
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My wife was driving this morning and the car stalled when she was accelerating from a stop light. Battery light came on and she could not restart the car no power. When I got there she was able to start the car again. I drove 10 feet when the car stalled again. Noticed that the EPC came on smelled rotten eggs or sulfur from the exhaust.
Used jump cables and car started, battery light gone but EPC light came on and stays on, no blinking. I drove back home about 13 miles and no problem. Took battery to test and did not hold charge, I will replace battery. Car was at the dealer for two weeks to get the CAM, cam follower and high p fuel pump replace. Is just a battery issue or another issue for the EPC light?
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My 2005 Honda CRV (92,000 miles) recently started shuddering when accelerating from a stop. I took it in to have the front struts replaced (back were done about a year ago) and get it aligned. Was told I needed a new CV axel. All that got changed, but shudder wasn't better. Took it back & was told steering was loose (car was pulling to the right after the alignment) and all was good. Not the case.
Took it back and was told I needed the other front CV axel replaced. Still not better. Had all 4 tires replaced (it was time). Still not better. As a side note (might be relevant...I don't know) my transmission had to be completely replaced/overhauled in Dec 2014. Was told someone had put in the wrong transmission fluid and there were metal shavings throughout. So in just over 6 months I've put close to $5000 into my ten year old, paid off car (nothing but normal maintenance until now).
Why it is still shuddering/vibrating? Reading on here, I'm supposed to make sure the wheel lug nuts are tight, but anything else I can check? Again, don't know if this might be relevant, but the car spent its first five years in a cold climate (Germany) and has since been in South Florida.
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