Honda - CR-V :: 1998 - Strong Fumes When Run A/C In Temps Over 100?
Jul 2, 2014
I have a 98 honda crv. I live in Las Vegas and when the temp outside is over 100, like today, there are terrible strong fumes like strong dry cleaning fluid in the front right area of the car. This starts after the AC has been running for about 10-15 minutes. If you run the car longer than this, the fumes get worse inside the car, nauseating. I have had a mechanic tell me to replace the gas cap, but this did not work. This happens when the gas tank is empty or full or in between.
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I'm finding that when I'm stopped I'm getting fairly strong fumes inside the car. Is this unusual? I'd like to have some info before I talk to my dealer.
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I own a 1998 C2500 Silverado. Recently I started noticing extreme gasoline fumes. Took truck in to my local mechanic and found out the fuel pump module had come loose from the gas tank. My mechanic dropped the fuel tank to access the fuel pump module for repair and discovered that the fuel tank had caved in ( imploded ) the full length of the tank. I've been told the fuel system is pressurized. How does the pressurized system work and what could have caused deformation of the fuel tank?
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About two years ago, I noticed the smell of exhaust fumes in the cabin of my 2000 Honda Civic any time the vents were set to pull air from outside the cabin. Switching the vents to recirculate would prevent the fumes. Looking under the hood, I found the exhaust manifold was cracked, so I replaced it along with the catalyic converter (actually one piece in this model) and two O2 sensors. Since the replacement, the problem with exhaust fumes remains. I have asked my mechanic to look at this a couple of times, and he could not find the cause. What to try next to diagnose the problem. We use the car frequently, and just have to leave the vents set on recirculate. This becomes an issue on rainy, humid days when recirculate causes the windows to fog.
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Newly acquired 2002 Accord.
At idle and while at a stop, the cabin receives a heavy dose of exhaust fumes (nope, not from the auto in front of me - I'm often alone at stop lights/signs)... what is the most likely culprit?
This did not seem to occur until AFTER I had the timing belt (package) replaced...coincidence
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The dealer recently replaced the front and side motor supports. Since then I've noticed that the car idles high when first cranked and I smelled excessive exhaust fumes. One time it idled really high and would not idle down when I hit the gas. Then it started idling up and down when my foot was not on the gas. Could there be any connection between this and the motor support installation? Could linkage to the gas pedal have been bent during installation? 2002 6 cylinder Honda Accord EX.....
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The CD player (6 disk changer) in my 2006 Honda Accord will not play disks above freezing temperatures. (To clarify, it is the model without the GPS.) I say temperatures because the playable cut-off usually fluctuates between 30 and 36 degrees F. Below that temperature, the disk plays fine.
Above that temperature, I will be lucky to get 15 seconds of play before the disk begins to skip and eventually error out. Additionally, the disk will skip and error after the cabin warms up. Over the last 9 or so months, this has been consistent behavior.
I first noticed this last summer in very hot weather when a disk began to skip. Since then, there is only one disk that plays reliably in any weather.
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I have replaced the fuel pump and filter and all 4 plugs are getting spark what else could it be...
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So I have a 1998 Honda Accord EX V6. When I turn off the car all the lights in the Dash are on without the key and sometimes the car stays on without the key. The only way I can turn off the car is by pressing the brakes. Don't know what exactly it can be. Also the doors and the battery light in the dash will flash when rolling the windows up or down.
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My 1998 Honda Civic has been dormant in my drive way for about a month and a half with very little gas. I went out to try to start it the other day and it struggled for a bit and never turned over. It isn't the batter considering the headlights and radio work just fine, thus I sought out the nearby gas station and attempted to solve the problem by putting gas in it, yet when I returned and emptied out my gas can into the tank it was the same ol' story. What it could be?
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I got Honda CRV 1998 When I am driving the engine turns off and I have to wait a while to start it again and then i start again but It always like that off and on the engine. I got gas pump, Spark Plugs, and radio fan changed but It still off and on like before.
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I have a 1998 Honda Civic with 153,000 miles. Whenever I come to a stop my car just turns off, before it turns off the check engine light will flickr and the right passenger door makes weird noises. When it turns off I put the car in park and it turns back on perfectly. When it does turn off the battery light and oil light comes on and stays on. This morning it happened again and the car wouldn't start up for 10 minutes I need to know what's wrong before it gets worse. I already got a tune up on it. What could be wrong?
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Vehicle- 98 honda crv lxproblem- it always starts when its cold(hasn't run for several hrs). Once its been running for a short while and is shut off, it either has a very hard time starting again or just won't start.
specifics- always starts the first timeonce engine is warm the problem startsengine turns but doesnt fire. Wears downs the battery. When I get it jumped the car will startsometimes the car will act sluggish during a left turn or from a dead stop when trying to accelerate quickly.
question- does this sound fuel pump related or battery related or both?
statement- car problems blow!
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My 1998 Honda CRV, automatic transmission, has 286,000 miles. The problem seems to be getting progressively worst, ie, the engine seems to misfire only when decelerating, most noticeably at highway speed -not evident during acceleration or while coasting. Also more noticeable when the engine is warm. I have used a bottle of injector / valve cleaner in the gas tank and I changed the fuel filter. My mechanic tells me that my front rotors are warped (but it seems if that were the problem, it would be noticeable during braking). The car needs a few other repairs but if I can't solve this problem I do not wish to sink any more money into it.
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I have a 1998 honda civic LX that slips very very seldom upon acceleration. It happens under light acceleration and medium acceleration (I dont accelerate hard enough to see it slip at high acceleration, it might!)
What happens is, the car stops accelerating and simply idles. As the motor idles the car drifts and slows down. I have never done it, but I bet in this state I could come to a complete stop just by drifting if I keep my foot in the same spot on the accelerator. When I change my foot, and accelerate harder, the car wakes back up and keeps accelerating like nothing even happened.
I don't think it is the transmission slipping, because in that instance revs would climb and acceleration would halt and that is not the case. I recently gave the car a huge tune up, here's the list
Valve adjustment
Oil and filter change
Cleaned throttle body and IAC
New distributor and cap (Plug wires aren't really in good shape)
New spark plugs
New air filter
Set the timing
New belts
Cleaned injectors
Cleaned battery terminals
I don't know what could cause this problem! The only thing I have come up is the Possibility a TPS (Throttle position sensor) going bad. The only thing that I know of that is wrong with the car is the exhaust manifold has a big crack in it right before the upstream 02 sensor. No doubt this leak is messing with the cars readings of the AFRs. Could this be part of the problem? It is throwing a code for the catalyst system.
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I have 1998 Honda civic 2 Dr and i was trying to switch cd players in it and blew some fuses so i checked all and replaced the blown ones but now it won't start.
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I've been checking my oil every morning for a few weeks now because of a worry about it burning off. I check it at the same time each morning, in pretty much the same parking spot, before driving it. Every time I take out the dipstick, wipe it off and put it back in to check. What's weird is that the level seems to fluctuate. Some days it's up over the higher dot. Some days it's down closer to the lower one (though it hasn't been under). Most days it's somewhere closer to the middle between the two. Is it common for it to fluctuate that much on a day to day basis? Is it something I should be worrying about?
In case it matters, it's a 1998 Honda Civic LX.
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My accord 1998 only start when it is warm (between 12:00 and 3:00). I changed the fuel pump, spark plugs, and fuse. but it is still the doing the same thing.
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I have an issue with my 98 honda civic lx, with 197000 mils. Recently I had my Check engine light on. I ignored it for a day. The next day started my car and in the middle of the road it stopped moving, meaning in spite of accelerating it doesn't move. So I stopped at the shoulder, turned off the engine. After a while I started again, the car moved but later on it stopped moving when I was accelerating. The Engine did not turn off during the stall. Couple of weeks back the car was shaking on the front side when I was driving, it felt like the car was about to stop as if it was short of fuel.I changed the spark plug 15000 miles back. Water pump and timing belt was changed 25000 miles back.Car has a highway mileage of 32 mpg.
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My 1998 Honda Civic has oil in the radiator. And even stranger, the oil winds up in the overflow coolant reservoir. What is the most likely cause of this?
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My car drives fine till it heats up then if I come to a stop it won't go into gear.....
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