Honda - Accord :: When Push On Gas Pedal Car Will Not Go Any Farther And Engine Just Revs
Sep 5, 2015
We have a 2004 Honda Accord V6 with 178,000 miles and the car is giving us some issues. We can drive the car for 10-15 minutes with no issues. Then when we push on the gas pedal, the car will not go any farther and the engine just revs. If we turn the car off and restart it, the car will continue to drive. There are no check engine lights on the car. Could these be a transmission issue?
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Ok, did an intake manifold cleaning on my 99 Accord the other day, and now I have problems...
Long story short, some time ago my car started to have a very rough idle. Took me awhile to find the problem. Turned out the air hose, between the filter and throttle body, had developed a big hole on the underside. So I replaced it and while I was at it used some throttle body cleaner, spraying into the intake manifold chamber. Lot of junk blew out the tailpipe. The car ran much better, but the idle could still be a little rough. I ran it that way for awhile, and finally the other day decided there was probably still some junk in there and it was time to really clean it out. So I took ff the throttle body and intake manifold housing. There was a lot of junk in there! The small intake on the passenger side was completely clogged shut. (I understand this isn't surprising on these cars.) I used a bunch of rags and 2 cans of Valvoline throttle body cleaner and a lot of elbow grease and cleaned it out. I was thinking to myself that whatever I didn't get with the rags flushed through OK, but I didn't want to take the whole intake manifold out.
So I put it all back together. (I took a video before I started, so I'm pretty sure it's all back together right.) But now I have problems. The car starts. It idles fine mostly, but can be a bit rough. But the trouble starts when I put the pedal down. If I do it in Park, well, if I push it quick the engine just dies. If I push it slow, the engine revs then quits, revs and quits, over and over. Similar if it's in gear. If I push it hard, the engine stalls. If I push it gentle, it revs up, but chugs along a bit.
I've run some seafoam through it, thinking it was clogged up with all that junk, and sure enough, lots of smoke comes out, but nothing is improving so far. What have I done wrong?
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I have a 2007 Honda Accord EX (4-cylinder) manual. When upshifting, after pressing the clutch and my foot is OFF the gas, the engine stays at 2000 rpm for a few seconds before falling back; often it even INCREASES speed with my foot OFF the gas. This happens only when upshifting/accelerating and even when the car is warmed up. Is it a bad sensor, computer or throttle control?
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I have 2003 Honda accord 230K km on it. Recently, I am having trouble in speeding up from 40km/h. I have to push in gas a few time before it speeds up and once it does, it runs smoothly again. It is kind of stuck at 40 and takes effort to move up. I took it to Canadian Tire and they say transmission needs to be replaced. Is it worth to get it replaced? or could it be fixed in any cheaper way because right now I cannot afford this a new car.
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I have a 2002 Honda Accord SE and I observe that the transmission slips, meaning the car revs but does not power the wheels. I have got this checked by a mechanic and he recommended a transmission replacement or live with it until it completely fails and then go for a transmission rebuild/replacement. The car has 115k miles on it and I did not do a transmission flush as per recommendation from the mechanic. He said that if I flush the transmission fluid, there is a high chance that the transmission will fail and will need an immediate replacement. I do not have any issues with the way the car drives now, but I am worried if something happens to the transmission while I am driving.
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I have a 99 Toyota Camry and recently the breaklight has been coming on and off sporadically. I assumed I had done some damage to my E-break, as the other week I tried to back out with it on (cut me some slack, I just moved to PA after having only really driven in FL lol). I wasn't worried about it since I didn't notice any issues with my breaks, however the last few days I randomly have to press the pedal down almost to the floor to come to a full stop. There doesn't seem to be any consistency to this, sometimes it happens when the light is on but usually not. It does it both when I am stopped (causing me to move forward slightly till I depress it farther), sometimes when I am stopping normally, both when I'm going straight and right after turning, ect.
I checked my break fluid level and it is at the minimum line so I doubt that is the issue. I did some research and saw many saying that it was likely just air in the lines and that the system needed to be bled. But some also mentioned replacing the master cylinder so I wanted to see what response I might get on here (I don't know very much about cars myself).
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I had the master cylinder change on a 92 honda accord EX the calibers change and, the master cylinder I have been told does not have any way to adjust the stem on the master cylinder so the brake man ajusted the brake pedal but the brakes are still freezing up. It is an automatic
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I have a NEW (purchased May 18th) 2012 Honda Accord. After starting the car there is a small vibration at 16-18 mph which I feel slightly in the gas pedal. A week ago, it started making a slight click when the car reaches 30 mph. This happens only when the first time it reaches these speeds when the car is started. Once started, I can stop and start (without turning off the car) as many times as I need without the sound. However, if I turn the car off and back on, the sounds happens again.
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I have a 95 Accord EX, 4 cylinder with ABS. The brake pedal goes to the floor about once a month, all times of year (I'm in Minnesota). I had the brakes bled last summer, but that didn't work. The ABS light has been on for probably 10 years. When I talked to my mechanic he said the ABS system, even though it's not working, could be a cause of the problem because fluid is still traveling through that system. He said most likely a master cylinder, but no guarantees. He said it could also be one of the brake lines. About 120k miles on it. What are the odds that it's the master cylinder?
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Had my original clutch replaced by mechanic. Had 200K on it. Car clutch petal vibrates badly when bringing clutch pedal out after shifting. Mechanic states it has to do with motor mounts that were affected when changing clutch or the clutch takes time to seal and stop vibrating in the next 500 miles. I have warranty for 12 months and 12,000 miles. Which I had no problem of vibration before having clutch replaced? What is the problem and how to proceed.
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I have a 97 Honda Accord LX stick shift that's giving me some trouble. I bought it at 146k miles and now it has 151k miles.
-- Here is the symptom --I feel that I have to lift the clutch pedal higher to fully engage the clutch after driving for 20 mins. The problem showed up several times and one time the clutch was somewhat slipping and I had to park it somewhere and got towed. After sitting there for several hours or overnight, the problem would gone -- and it could show up again at some time. The strange thing is that I am not always getting this problem. The car could sometimes run over 1 hour without any unusual feeling on the clutch.
I also noticed that when the clutch is not working well, the clutch pedal is stiffer than usual (I never had problem disengaging the clutch though). When I push the pedal to the very bottom on the floor, I can hear some noise and the car even had a tendency to move a little when in 1st gear.
Once I opened the hood and looked at the position of the release fork when the car was cold. After driving about 20 minutes, I looked again and found that the fork moved a little bit away from the slave cylinder as if someone was pushing the clutch pedal gently! I think that's why the point at which the clutch engages is becoming higher. But I don't know what is the real problem. I replaced the slave cylinder last week but it did not solve the issue. Is the clutch bad again or the cylinder?
Here is the repair history --About a year and a half ago I found the clutch slipping. So I had the clutch replaced and the flywheel resurfaced by a mechanic. It was good for a few months until that problem rose again. Then I went to an auto shop. They told me that the slave cylinder was the real problem and got it replaced. I was good for about a year. Now I am still getting the trouble above.
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Toyota Corolla 93, manual transmission so there was a problem with idling, while it idles, the engine revs up but im not pressing the gas pedal at all. found out it the vacuum hose was broken. we fix it, buy a new one and now the engine dies out. change the air filter. The car still dies out. so the car either dies out or bad idling. what do i do?
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It's a 2003 Mountaineer with a mechanical throttle not drive by wire. For about two weeks while idling in park or in gear but stopped in the drive-thru, the engine revs upwards of 1200-2100 rpm. Runs fine normally, no check engine light, no misfire and doesn't matter if the A/C is on or not.
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Ok, so I have a 1992 GMC Suburban with a 350 TBI with a full dual exhaust and long pipe headers. The problem I'm having is that there is a tapping noise that comes from the driver's side of the engine when you push the gas pedal down. It only makes the noise when you push the pedal down more than about a quarter of an inch. I have tested it down hill with the transmission out of overdrive and the rpms up and there is no tapping. I'm thinking it might be pre-ignition in one of the cylinders but how to test for it other than just disconnecting plug wires one at a time until it stops. Much more I don't know what would be causing it to happen if that is the problem.
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I just bought a used 93 accord. The engine is in good shape and runs smoothly most of the time, but I have two issues.
First, when I start the engine cold, there is a very loud belt squealing for about 3 or 4 seconds. Is this a common problem and, if I isolate the belt at fault, what should I do about it?
Second, the engine revs (both audibly and on the tach) when I press on the brakes. I've been told by a friend it might be a vacuum leak?
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I just picked up my new 2014 Chevrolet Camaro with the V6 and 6 speed manual transmission. If I just punch the gas pedal when in neutral, the engine almost dies for just a second but then rev's up normally. It seems like a burst of gas chocks out the engine. I have tried the same thing in other Camaro's and the engine rev's up normally as soon as you punch the gas pedal.
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I have a 2001 toyota prius. When I start the car and press on the gas pedal the engine rev's but nothing moves and there is some clatter from the engine. I can put it in B mode and drive it a short distance, but that's it.... The engine light has been coming off and on for a week now. It makes a loud audible tone and then I turn it off and back on and then it stops.
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My clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad...
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I have a problem about which the mechanics I have asked are baffled: In cool, cloudy or sunny weather, my brakes and break-pedal pressure are fine (the mechanics have said I have good fluid, brakes, etc.--they can find nothing wrong--and, of course, it never has a problem when they test-drive my car). However, when the weather warms up and it's a bright, sunny day, my brake pedal loses pressure and slowly sinks to the floor--a dangerous thing at intersections. There's slight pressure if I pump the pedal constantly while at a light; but, without pumping, the pedal immediately sinks to the floor.
This is a real problem, because this problem always occurs right when mechanics are not near or not open for business--and none I've talked to have ever heard of such a problem. The bright, hot sun's affect seems to be key, because if it's 80 degrees outside and cloudy, I don't have the issue--but, then again, I don't usually run the air conditioner if it's cloudy. As such, I'm not positive; but, this may be tied to when I turn on the air conditioner--as though the two share the same vacuum system.
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While driving, I noticed that when I floor the gas pedal to go faster, the engine revs up and takes about a second or 2 until the car accelerates. i also noticed that if i let go of the gas pedal while the engine revs then the car doesn't go any faster, it just revs then goes back to normal. Whats going on?
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My clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad... 2007 Honda Accord Manual Transmission
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