Honda - Accord :: Turn Signals Blinking Fast?
Sep 11, 2015
I have a 1998 or 1997 Honda Accord and just noticed the other day that my left turn signal was blinking faster than normal. Now I know that this would denote a burnt lightbulb but I got out of my car to see if one wasn't working on my left side. All of my lights seem to be "on" but the left side turn signals are flashing faster than normal. Also I did hit a speed bump at app. 40 mph the other day.
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I made the conversion of the regular bulbs to led ( stops, position, turn signals ) but I have fast blinking in turn signals. I know that the led has fewer electric resistance than the regular bulbs so the car takes this like a damaged bulb.
I know two possibilities:
1- A resistance for each one of the led to confuse the system.
2 - Changing the electronic relay
I don't know which one is better. I need a resistance for each bulb? which relay is the appropriate one for this car (there's a lot of references on the internet and I can't find the relay in the hood's car).
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I've replaced the turn signal switch, bulbs and relay fuse. Hazards work and everything else, just no signals. What am I missing??
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The problem is that both sides blink fast the left one used to blink normally sometimes and fast again all the lightbulbs work and are not led i found the problem on the right side : in the front the side light blinks but the drl doesnt blink with it now both sides blink fast. What my problems might be? What part of the car i should check ?
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I did my research and it turns out I need a relay switch for my blinkers. these bulbs are bright but flash too fast..
How do the relay switches work, what do i plug them into and do I need one relay switch per blinker?
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My '99 F150 is having wiring issues. It started with a left flasher being fast and the rear bulb not working. I put in new bulb and that didn't fix it. Then I realized that I also had no tail lights. The reverse lights are good and the brake lights work too.
So far I have searched for and repaired suspicious splices done by PO, added a ground wire that was cut off from the trailer wiring harness, checked every fuse that I could with an ohmmeter and I pulled the multi function switch and tested it with an ohmmeter also. It tested fine but I did find one of the female pin connectors had pulled out of the harness. I managed to get it back in and seemed to click into place alright. Somewhere over the course of all that I now have both sides of my flashers fast and still no tail lights. Good news is that I haven't broken my brake lights or reverse lights yet.
Could I have a bad flasher relay? Earlier in the process I did have my 4 way flashers working correctly and a couple times I even had the turn signals going. Now, none of the rear blinking lights work but the front ones go 90 to nothing and I still have no tail lights. My truck does have the auto lamp thing.
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I just changed the multi-function switch on my 2001 PT Cruiser, because someone suggested it since my turn signals were not blinking or clicking. The turn signals come on, but do not blink or make that clicking sound at all. They just stay on. The hazards do not blink or click either. Lights and all work fine. It's just the turn signals and hazards that do not. What else controls the clicking and blinking of the turn signals and flashers. Could it be the relay that's inside the multi-function switch? I'm almost 100% sure we checked all the fuses, but I could be missing something.
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The turn signals stop blinking after a few blinks on my 2001.5 Passat 4Motion. There are no burned out bulbs, no aftermarket lighting, nor any aftermarket audio. The problem also happens when using the emergency flashers. The lights will blink for as little as two or as many as 15 blinks and then just stop. Is this a relay switch? Where is it? Can I get to it without taking the dang dash out of the car?
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MY 2001, 6 cylinder, HONDA ACCORD (200,000K miles) has for a couple of years randomly stalled at traffic signals. It has always been for just a few seconds, the engine will turn over, all dashboard lights are on but it has taken up to about 30 seconds to finally fire. I didn't worry about it too much until last week when this happened only this time it wouldn't start. BIGGER problem was that I couldn't get the gear shift lever to shift from "Park" to "Neutral", which meant the car was stuck sitting in the middle of the road and several burly men couldn't budge it out of the way of traffic. After about 20 minutes, the car started and drove away like a dream. Had mechanic check it out - ran perfectly. Fast forward three days, I drive 3.5 hours seamlessly stop a couple of times with the car sitting a max of 10 minutes - no problem - stop third time with engine off, in park for only about a minute and the same situation, dash lights on, stuck in park, engine turns over, won't start. Had lunch, an hour or so later it starts. Drive about five miles & turn up a steep grade on paved, residential road at about 25mph and the engine shuts off without any coughing, stuttering - just shuts off and I coast to the curb. Starts up in just a few seconds and has been running beautifully since, driving me and the mechanic nuts.
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I just recently replaced my front driver blinker and the replacement worked for about 5 days then it stopped working and the turn arrow started blinking fast again like when it was broken. I had to replace it cause a rock broke it before now I don't know whats wrong.
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Every time I try to start my 95 Honda Accord, there is a fast clicking sound and the car will not start. All of the interior lights come on, and the car is full of gas, so I'm not quite sure what the problem might be. My car did start before we were hit with all of this snow in MA, but now it's not.Why my car will not start?
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A few weeks ago, I went out to my car & the remote opener would not work. So I opened the door with the key. I went to start the car & it would not start. I got absolutely nothing. I also then could not get the key back out of the ignition. It would not even turn back to the original position. My father get the car started with a jump, but since then my car radio does not work. I also do not hear any noise when using the turn signals. They work, but no "blinking" sound. I tried to research this thinking maybe you have to "reset" the radio after a power "outage" but have been unable to find anything on how to do this. My husband recently passed away and I'm feeling a little lost when it comes to issues with my car. Where I can find some info?
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I noticed that my turn signals stopped working. I replaced the flasher. Now the turn signals work but the signal indicators in the dash don't light up. Also, the hazard lights don't work either. No flashing, no blinking when I turn on my hazards. I've seen many variations while searching? 1994 B3000 2x4 extra cab.....
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While I know this has been covered before, I could not find anything pertinent to 2011-2015 model years.
So, I changed my turn signals to LEDs, and now I have the fast-blink behavior. I realize this is because of the significantly decreased amperage and resistance of the LED modules. I did a similar mod on my 2007, and simply found a replacement low-current blinker relay (on eBay, I think), and replaced it (it was physically located behind the extra small glove box near the middle of the dash.
My questions are, 1) for a 2015, should I use the same method of replacing the blinker relay? 2) Any brand and model that will work for this application and/or where one can be purchased and 3) Where is that relay located on the 2015 model? If not, should resistors be used?
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The MIL came on (steady on, not blinking) about a month ago on a very rainy day. The car felt sluggish going from stop to start and at low speed, but then it was OK at higher speed (>40 mph). I checked the fuel cap, which was tightened appropriately. I went to my mechanic. His computer diagnosed the problem to be malfunctioning of the "throttle position sensor". I had the throttle position sensor replaced. About two weeks after the new sensor was put in, the MIL came on again and went off in two days. Two days later it came on again (steady, not blinking) after I drove to work in a downpour. This time the car had no problem getting from stop to start and at low speed, but could not go over 45 mph. I went to my mechanic again. The computer diagnosis this time was "system too lean". After three dry days when I drove only very short distances, the MIL went off. What is going on? are computerized diagnoses always accurate? why did the MIL seem to be related to wet weather? I bought a Honda Accord because of its reported reliability.
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My blinkers started off blinking a few times then stopped working, now they don't work at all. The fuse says it goes to the brake lamps, hazards and turn signals. The hazards work as well as the brake lamps. I found the relay/flasher box and it appears the relay and flasher is the same for both the turn signals and the hazards. I checked for the wire/connector problem in the column and all looks good there. When I activate the turn signal lever I feel one click in the relay/flasher which leads me to believe the turn signal switch is working. I went ahead and replaced the relay with no results. Is the flasher internals the same for both the hazards and the turn signals or is there two independent sections inside for each?
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I started my car a few weeks ago, and the check engine light came on and the S light on my dash kept blinking. Followed by a difficulty stepping on the gas pedal. I attempted the paperclip way of scanning my OBD1 scanner. When I used it, the check engine light went off, no S light blinking anymore, and the gas pedal worked great! I also changed out my VSS (vehicle speed sensor) but the light came on anyway, and my speedometer can't read at correct speeds. Could the engine light problem be because of misfiring due to spark plugs? I don't want to keep buying parts and stuff unless I'm 100% sure it will fix the issue.
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I have a 2002 accord with 118k miles that recently after a car wash and oil change, the oil pressure light came on a stays on blinking. I took it to my mechanic and he put a manual pressure gauge on and found that the oil pressure was normal. He changed the oil pressure sensor but the light still is blinking. He believes that having the car washed, under body wash, might have shorted out the harness. Been driving the car for a week and it seems fine, no noticeable difference in performance or sounds coming from the engine.
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I've been having an electrical issue for the past few months that I've decided to address now that the weather is getting a little warmer.
What happened is the left turn signal was blinking fast, so I assumed bad bulb, and later that day it stopped blinking fast and now I press the lever down to indicate a left turn and there is a quite loud buzzing sound. Sounds like it's coming from where the relays are, but I've replaced them and the bulbs and still nothing has changed.
I've also replaced the multifunction switch to see if that was an issue, but a new one did the same thing so I returned it.
Running lights work all around, but now there are no left blinkers, and also my left brake light doesn't come on. Pulling a trailer I have the same problem, I had the plug tested and only 3 of the pins have anything to them.
I know nothing about auto electrical systems.
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My 2004 Honda Accord wouldn't start this morning. Immobilization indicator was blinking. After a bit, it started just fine, as the indicator stopped blinking. My thinking at this time was that it had rained torrentially the previous night, maybe some moisture had got into the circuitry and caused a little 'hiccup.' Then, as I drove, about 5 minutes later, the car started trying to stall. The check engine light came on, then the battery light came on and flashed. The engine ran erratically. Both check engine and battery lights started blinking erratically. At one point the dash beeped at me, like the warning sound it makes when the emergency brake is on while the car is moving. This got worse as I drove. I pulled over to the nearest shop. 2 hours of looking at the car, they said the camshaft sensor and the alternator needed to be replaced. .
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My 07 Accord V6 won't turn over. Brand new battery showing 12.5 volts, and I checked all the fuses. All other electrical is in working condition. Had the wife turn the key while I tapped on the starter with no luck. Then I measured the voltage coming into the solenoid from the starter while sitting there and 0 volts, then had the wife turn the key and it was showing 10.5 volts.
I took off the kick panel and swapped the ACC relay for the starter cut relay ( they're identical) and still nothing. I'm pretty much down to it being a problem with the ignition switch, but I'm not looking forward to getting into the steering column. What else it could be, or have some tips for what I should do / be looking for if I get into the steering column?
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