Honda - Accord :: Suspension Bouncy / Car Leans A Lot When Going Around Corners
Jul 8, 2011
I have a 2003 Honda Accord V6. It has about 105K miles. The suspension seems a little bouncy. I would like better handling. The car leans a lot when going around corners. I've heard that new Honda struts are not as good for handling as some other brands.
I read that I should replace the dampers and springs together to get better handling. Most of the struts I've read about lower the car, however, I don't really want to lower it. I just want better handling for everyday driving. Am I on the right track?
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My car started making a loud, high pitched "whooping" and "whining" noise when making corners. The pitch is medium to high and variable. It kind of sounds like wet rubber on glass (like a squeegee). The first time it happened I thought it was a police siren, like when they sound the siren in short bursts "whoop! whoop!". But now the sound is more like a prolonged whine/groan. The sound might be coming from the steering column, but I can't be sure. Its definitely on the driver's side and in the front.
The sound is not related to braking. It doesn't happen on every turn. It can happen when starting from a stop or when already in motion. It happens on both flat ground and hills. At first it seemed to happen on cold days and only in the morning. I think this might have been a coincidence since now it happens throughout the day, every day.
My car is a 1993 honda accord with approximately 315,000 miles.
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There is a noise I'm trying to locate and diagnose, comes from under this 2004 Accord DX, 5 spd. i can't locate 'where' precisely. it occurs intermittently, seems correlated with suspension parts' responding to load and forces (for instance, turning into a parking lot, where there's a slight dip at the paved curb skirt entering the lot, or when there's a modest bounce as car travels along the highway--when the stable momentum of travel is interrupted, making for a "bounce" or some force transferred into suspension, e.g.). ---The sound is low in register, not loud, and best i can do is 'imagine' what assembly (assemblage, or rigging, or set-up, or contraption) could produce such a sound.
The sound--to my experience and auditory senses is like, of a torsion bar, maybe a 3/4-inch steel rod, as might be fitted transverse somewhere at rear axle area, that would serve to stabilize the sway of the vehicle, under turning conditions; (I'm only guessing here, cause my pod-nur says, or 'hears', the sound's coming from front suspension area, like when load is taken at front strut, going over the slight dip when turning from road to parking lot). so what i hear, I imagine to be a point on the rod coming sudden contact with another metal part enough that the strike produces a tuned "spring" sound, the kind of sound i imagine a spring-tensioned rod would make, or like a staccato bass note, as piano bass string could make.
M bad on the metaphor here--yet, the approximate pitch of this pernicious occasional noise is near the A or the B, in the octave below middle C--i just now tested those notes, trying to be sure I'm 'in the ball park' in reporting and elaborating symptoms, all of which have to do with 'sounds' thus far. There doesn't seem to be any other evidence of frailty, or deterioration of handling, or efficiency of the vehicle. But my concern is that maybe some rubber grommet, or shock-absorbing hard rubber part, is allowing a loss of tolerances that will develop into some dangerous driving performance--a line of concern that one would take if one heard the clicking of a CV joint, tho my case had nothing to do with that realm i believe.
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Find the ride on the 2013 Elantra kinda bouncy ?....I thought it might be the cheaper OEM tires, but after running winter tires, the ride was still kinda skippy/bouncy over rougher roads.....
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I have a 2002 accord 4-cyl with a 5-speed with 89,xxx miles. Just a few months ago, I noticed a clunking sound coming from the front suspension when I go over certain bumps. "Certain" bumps are usually wavy pavement or dips (not wide dips, but short/concise ones), and sometimes certain speed bumps. Sometimes the sound happens regardless of the types of bumps though, but the aforementioned ones usually bring the noise quite consistently. The sound hasn't really gotten worse, but it hasn't been getting better either.
A while back when I had my timing belt done, the mechanic stated that one (or more) of my engine mounts were worn. Is it possible one or more of my engine mounts is the source of this issue (from the engine "rattling" around in the compartment. I'm not sure if that's even possible, just a hypothesis) or is it purely suspension. PS. The sound isn't quite a sharp metal on metal sound. Its more of a "thump" or "clunk" coming from the front end (left or right) as if its bottoming out or a bushing or spacer has worn off. Its just loud enough to drive me crazy, and sometimes I can feel it through the floor.
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I have recently replaced all 4 struts in my car with monroe quick struts. I have a 2002 Accord. Everything went wonderful until a few weeks later I heard a rattle from the front passenger side. Its a light "tinny" rattle, almost as if a bolt was loose and it was jiggling around. It doesn't happen every time and sometimes goes away altogether. I took it to my trusted mechanic, and they spend a good 45 minutes inside looking at things and overtightened everything to no avail. I have ruled out a defective strut (as I replaced it with one and the new one does the same thing) and I ruled out the stabilizer bar bushing (brand new OEM part I installed) and I ruled out the sway bar link (also new).
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So I found an 03 gx one owner and only 56k Miles on it. Nice truck. I noticed right away that the rear suspension feels hard and bouncy. When I adjust the height it does work but seems to take a bit. In the Low setting feels like it is on the bump stops. Not sure where to start, sounds like the level sensors can be an issue, so I will have a look at them. Feels like it is just going to the top height to me thus making the ride really stiff. I climbed onto the rear bumper and tried to bounce the truck and it is like a rock. Like the bags are over inflated.
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I have an 2001 S 80, T6, with 74K miles. I love the car but have had an issue with it since I bought it in 2004. I hear random clunks, pops, and bang noises in all 4 corners. I can't recreate the noises, they just occur randomly. But they can be loud! I have had the dealer inspect it a few times always telling me that everything looks okay.
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04 Treg with 500 miles.
I have noticed that my Treg is over 1 inch lower on the right side then the left when it's parked. I have tried this mod [URL] to fix it but it doesn't accept my settings. So I tried this mod [URL] I still can't make this thing level.... I'll try this mod again reading with both eyes open this time...
Sometimes after I shut it off and get out about a minute later I hear the shocks adjusting. Why?
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U have a 2004 gli 1.8t. At idle the wideband is reading 16 .5 to 18 at idle. While driving it's normal at 14.4. No check engine light or lean codes tho. is this normal?
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My mkiv gti leans a lot to the right whenever I let off the steering wheel. I brought it to a shop and they put it up on a lift and told me that I needed a tie rod flip kit because it's lowered. Long story short, they charged me $70 to look at it for 10 minutes. Do you really need a flip kit for a car lowered on coilovers? I have several friends with lowered cars and none off them have had to do this. I'm thinking it's something else such as a bad shock but I'm no expert.
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One car, which I have used a lot recently, had the check engine light come on yesterday, it was on all day, morning and evening, today it is off. I asked the person who had it last; he said it was not on. He did mention he filled it with premium, and I usually use the cheep stuff. Could this have just been some sort of adjustment to the new gas? Should I be concerned still? Or should I just let it go since the light is now off? I was going to try and go to a mechanic next week, but would prefer not to as I would have to take vacation time to do so. While cheaper, the maintenance and time-off involved is the down side to my companies program. Do I check it out? Or let it go? It's a 2007 Honda Accord Fleet Edition with 30,000 miles.
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I have a 1992 Honda Accord EX 5speed the car has 185k miles runs great but every time I fire up the car I run it for like a mile, if that, and the surging begins, it won't go over 2k rpm so when that happens I pull over for about a minute or two and then the car drives normal again. I'm still working on the problem finding and fixing little glitches here and there...
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So I have a 1998 Honda Accord EX V6. When I turn off the car all the lights in the Dash are on without the key and sometimes the car stays on without the key. The only way I can turn off the car is by pressing the brakes. Don't know what exactly it can be. Also the doors and the battery light in the dash will flash when rolling the windows up or down.
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I am a happy owner of a 98 Honda Accord Lx (4 cylinder). This car and I have been through a lot. A few weeks ago I went into the dealership because the check engine light came on. They said I had no oil in the car, did an oil change, and sent me on my way. The following week I broke down after coolant came pouring from my car.
A different dealership said that there was an oil leak that compromised the hose carrying the antifreeze, which caused it to break, and as a result the thermometer broke. My first question... do I confront the first dealership that swore they checked & inspected everything to figure out why my oil was so low? Now, the question of MOST IMPORTANCE... The second mechanic that worked on it told me that the transmission was going. It was brought to my attention about 9 months ago that there may be a small leak in the transmission. Well, it still ran fine. Occasionally it wouldn't have the smoothest shift, but was nothing big.
Well, the same week the second mechanic mentioned this, and my need to start looking for a new car, the transmission is a complete mess! It jerks and won't shift as quickly, and I can't think of how to describe it easily, but when it jerks it does it multiple times.
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We have a 92 Honda Accord 2.2L We have been trying to get it to pass emissions since October. So far we have replace the gas cap, replaced the O2 sensor and replaced the EGR valve. Here are the readings 25/25 test 50/15 testHC ppm 17 29CO% .07 .20NO ppm 1162 1230 after replacing the O2 sensor but before the EGR the 25/25 side passed reading 1005CO+CO2 % 15 15
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I have a 96' honda accord LX and I have no low beams. Set on low beams I have no lights. Set on high beams sometime it switches to low beams, then 3 or 4 minute pass and it stays on high beams for the duration of the car ride till I turn the car off.
I have replaced the dimmer relay and the turn signal switch. What's wrong with it? A guy at auto zone it could be one of my body control modulators, is this it?
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I replaced the valve cover gasket set and that stopped the oil leak. A few months later it looks like the vtec valve assy. is leaking. Should I replace the vtec valve assy. or just the gaskets?
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My 07 Accord V6 won't turn over. Brand new battery showing 12.5 volts, and I checked all the fuses. All other electrical is in working condition. Had the wife turn the key while I tapped on the starter with no luck. Then I measured the voltage coming into the solenoid from the starter while sitting there and 0 volts, then had the wife turn the key and it was showing 10.5 volts.
I took off the kick panel and swapped the ACC relay for the starter cut relay ( they're identical) and still nothing. I'm pretty much down to it being a problem with the ignition switch, but I'm not looking forward to getting into the steering column. What else it could be, or have some tips for what I should do / be looking for if I get into the steering column?
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My 95 Accord loses about a qt every 1,000 miles from a loose oil pan. I leave a little mess everywhere I park. I want to replace the pan gasket but can't reach the heads of two 10mm bolts that are partially covered by part of the transmission. How do I get them off? Are those babies actually holding on the pan, or are they not related?
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99 Accord, 160,000, automatic, 4cyl vtec, properly maintained.
Recently the CEL came on following an episode of the engine running poorly. It painted EGR code P0401 which is being dealt with, and, P1739: "third clutch pressure switch circuit fault." I investigated briefly in my Haynes and found that P1739 is one of the codes that will not trip the CEL.
I have not had any major issues with this transaxle. The fluid is at its proper level, Honda Z1 brand, and in good shape. I have it changed every 20,000 miles. Sometimes if I am driving along in 2nd gear, right around the upper speed limit before it would shift to third (20-25 mph), the car will jerk just a little but it is driveable. Could this be related?
Should I let this slide until something happens or should I get the to a transmission tech? What would you do? Could the thing go into limp mode one day without warning?
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