Honda - Accord :: Instrument Panel Temp Gauge / Thumping Makes Needles Bounce Around
Sep 1, 2013
98 accord v6, when we first got it about a year ago the temp gauge was a little erratic. Sometimes it would stay all the way down (cold) after driving for awhile. You can take your finger and thump the plastic and it would jump up to normal. At first it was only temp, but now all gauges including gas level are not working. Odometer still works right but the speedo goes to about 45 and stays there. Thumping still makes the needles bounce around.
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For a while now, my coolant temp gauge in the instrument cluster would bounce according to the bumps on the road, only when engine is fully warmed up. So I disconnected the ECT sensor to see if there's anything unusual. Nothing suspicious found, so I plugged it back in. Now my temp gauge is at "Cold" all the time. OBD reader shows normal coolant temp rise.
I shorted the ECT connector to simulate a hot condition--gauge still shows Cold. Checked the yellow/red wire against ground--5 ohm. Disconnected battery for 30 minutes--no change.
Now, it looks like I'll have to pull the instrument cluster, which is not something I want to do since I don't really have a place to work on the car, but I take this drastic measure.
Mine is a 2001, with the analog cluster.
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My Honda Civic (automatic transmission) is not starting. When turning the ignition, nothing happens. After turning the key off, all the instrument needles are ticking back and forth. It was a cold night last night. The battery is fairly new.
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After a trip of about an hour to the Fryeburg Fair yesterday I noticed my temperature gauge needle was going way up. I was able to park my car and went to the fair for about 4-5 hours. Before we left I checked the coolant level as the car had cooled off enough to take the cap off. The coolant right to the top and was green. I checked my oil level and that was fine. On the way home my son suggested that I turn the heat on. I did so and the temp gauge went down to normal and stayed that way all the way back home to Lewiston, Maine. I'm thinking it might be the thermostat but thought I would for any other possible reasons my car is doing this. The car has about 216,000 miles and I did have the thermostat replaced a couple of years ago.....???
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The other night I passed a car overheating (Subaru) and checked my temp gauge and saw my needle was gradually climbing towards the half mark. This is not normal for my 96 Honda Accord. No lights coming on, so I blasted the heater and needle immediately returned to it's normal position. Filled the coolant, it was low, but the problem remains if the heater isn't turned on to at least 3. This doesn't seem extreme enough to be the thermostat. Could my fan be out?
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My 1994 honda accord station wagons cooling fan is working but the temp gauge still goes all the way up then back to normal numerous times while driving.. I park on the side of the road while the car is on, pop the hood to check and see any signs of over heating but the motor seems to be normal.. What could be happening??
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I have an '08 Accord Cpe with a V6 and 5-speed auto. transmission. When driving on a level stretch of road trying to hold the speed at 40mph the engine speed will bounce up and down between 1400 and 1700 RPM. The engine is warm. The transmission feels like it is trying to up-shift and make the car go faster thus nearly impossible to hold the speed at 40mph. If I put the transmission in 3rd gear so it can't shift up there isn't this problem. I have also noticed a lugging or hesitating when trying to accelerate when the engine is cold. I wonder if these are related issues?
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2012 GTI 6 Speed
Both needles bounce while maintaining a constant speed, example going 80mph in 6th, RPM moves +/-100ish RPM and speed is 1-2 MPH. The car doesn't actually move, just the gauges. Engine doesn't sound like its miss firing MPG was 30 going 80 so it seems to run just fine. Going through the gears playing around its smooth and normal.
I'm on a road trip so very limited on anything to diagnose, just looking for some insight.
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I have a 2002 Accent GS. Their is fuel flow out of the fuel filter. I've changed out the spark plugs and sprayed starting fluid into the cylinders, and still will not start. So there is no electricity to the spark plugs. Replaced all of the ECU fuses in the engine compartment and under the dash, and still will not start.
Don't think it is the coil pack, because I can't imagine both coils failing at same time. Think it is a relay or sensor. Which relay or sensor would also prevent power from going to the instrument panel gauges but still allow the instrument panel warning lights? Main relay? Crankshaft position sensor? Throttle position sensor?
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The Oil Gauge on the Instrument panel of my '99 Jeep Cherokee Classic is pegged fully to the right (TWICE the normal reading) when the vehicle is Stopped at a Light or stop sign. As I accelerate the needle drops down to NEARLY normal but pegs again as I decelerate to a stop. The engine sounds normal, operates like normal, no smells, oil level on dipstick is OK. What's up with this?
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I took my 2003 Honda Accord that has 200,000 mostly highway miles to my machanic because I heard a thumping sound in the wheel (so I thought) He told me it was a broken engine mount (front) and replaced it. When I picked up my car it vibrated all over the place. I was scared to drive it. The steering wheel was bounding around. Anyway I took it back right away and was told that since they replace the front engine mount the others needed to be replaced as well and that was the cause of the vibration. They replaced the other two engine mounts and the car is vibrating even more. So the decided it was the transmission mounts. So...they replaced the transmission mounts and still my car is vibrating all over the place.
Now the mechanic says it's the engine and said that it was at least a 5 hour job to do but could not give me any promises that that was going to fix my car. So, I took it to the honda dealer to have their tech look into it. The tech thought the vibration was caused by a broken air tube, replaced it (at no cost) but the car still vibrating..
Honda checked the replaced engine and transmission mounts, said they were okay but noticed that the original bolt on the front mount was replaced by a oversized bolt and they think that is the problem since the vibration did not occur until the mechanic replaced the front motor mount. Honda suggested I take the car back to the mechanic since it would cost me much money for them to fix it. I had Honda explain the issue to the mechanic about the bolt and they seem to disagree. I'm still waiting to hear from the mechanic as to when to bring my car back so that they can finally fix it. i think the made more of a problem in the first place.
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A couple of years ago I went through the salt water with my 2003 Honda Accord which is a manual transmission. It only has 106,000 miles and expects it to go much further. The clutch works great but when engaged is really loud. I have had it checked by 2 different auto repair places. Nothing is wrong they say. It has been cleaned and greased.
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After coming home at a late night in my 2005 Honda Accord, I heard noise coming from the drivers side front wheel. I've heard this noise once before after a rock got stuck up in my brakes. I pulled into a parking lot and jacked up the car and got the tire off. I couldn't see anything that would be making the noise. After going to get something from the trunk the car fell off the jack. I had a tow truck come and lift it up. We put the tire back on and he said there shouldn't be anything serious and I no longer heard the noise coming from the wheel on my way home. But after driving it the next day, I noticed when the car is turned sharply to the right while driving, it makes a scratching/screeching noise. What could have happened?
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So i have a 1996 honda accord, i recently just got a new motor put in it. Its a used motor but a good one. I picked the car up from the shop yesterday, i drove it all day yesterday and today. It drives and sounds so much better than it did before. My husband goes to leave for work this evening and it wont start, it just makes a click noise when you turn the key, it wont even crank over. The battery is brand new and not used, the starter is brand new and not used, we just got both this year. It sounds like the clicking noise is coming from where the starter is, somewhere in that area. Could the starter have went bad on us? He checked all the cables and wires to see maybe if something is loose, everything seems to be in tact and tight.
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I have noticed in my 2009 Honda Accord that the temperature of the heated air coming out of the dash vents drops when I select "all dash" as opposed to "mix dash and floor." It's significant enough to notice as it blows on my hands. But the dealer says the difference is within 5 degrees, which is within specs, so they won't do anything.
I don't think I can measure it myself since I can't fully jam my thermometer in the dash vent, so any reading would be contaminated by ambient temperature.
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Is there a digital readout gas gauge so that when I am driving down the road I can see exactly how much fuel is in the tank
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Why, after so many repairs and $$$$ with a AAA Certified Repair shop, the temp gauge that sooner or later shows the needle HOT? Everything accounted for - thermostat 5x, radiator 3x, computer, maintenance, etc etc etc. " It's fixed !!" and then it's starts all over again. It's got 186,000 on it, couple of minor wrecks, all maintenance kept up, still driving it but the needle goes back up again and again. Funny thing, water levels remain the same, no smoke, no red engine light, slight smell of a hot engine but nothing else so far. Still, that needle!! This has been going on a couple of years. Want to figure it out before I get rid of the car. 2003 Civic Coupe DX ....
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i have a 2002 Honda Civic EX, 155,000 miles. I've been having this problem for quite some time and the mechanic has not been able to figure out what the problem is. He has changed the thermostat, pressure tested the coolant (or something along those lines) but the problem persists. The mechanic also pressure tested the radiator system and said there was no leak. He also told me the tank was overfilled with water, apparently I didn't need to be waiting for the car to cool down so I could add more water, so I've stopped doing that. I have NOT had the scheduled 150,000 maintenance done yet. The mechanic said it wasn't 'urgent' and if I wanted to wait I could. I was hoping to spend the money repairing this problem before doing that, which he said sounded OK to him. The timing belt was replaced in 2007 right before I moved across the country.
I'll try to be succinct, but the explanation is long. Overall: when driving the car to run errands around town the temp gauge used to quickly go all the way to HOT & the A/C starts blowing hot/humid air. When this happened I was pulling over, turning off A/C & radio & putting the car in neutral until the gauge goes back down, used to take only a few minutes but if driving in town (stop lights/traffic) i have to keep doing this b/c the needle returns to the top quickly. I also started trying putting the car in neutral while stopped at lights or in traffic & if i pushed on the gas pedal & kept the engine at 3K RPM the needle would go back down & A/C would start blowing cold when I started driving again.
The other part of this is if i change the A/C vent diverter from all vents blowing at upper body to vents blowing at face & feet or all vents blowing at feet the green 'recycled air' light goes out & the air starts blowing hot & humid, this persists even if I push the 'recycle' air button again.
Until yesterday this temp gauge & A/C issue has not been nearly as much of a problem when driving on the highway at a consistent speed, in other words when the car doesn't have to idle the problem didn't occur very often, the temp gauge may have moved towards 'HOT' but never got all the way up there. Until yesterday. I had to drive thru town with quite a bit of construction & resulting traffic as well as a few stop lights which sent the gauge go to HOT quickly. When I got on the highway I was expecting the gauge to go back down & the A/C to start blowing cold air.... alas, it did not. the gauge stayed very near HOT the whole time & the A/C never blew cold air. It was 106*F yesterday?
And yet another part of this problem, which the mechanics have told me is NOT related to this problem: in the winter time the heater took an extraordinarily long time to heat up and then would only blow warm air while the car was moving at a pretty high speed, under around 30 MPH and there was no heat, and definitely no heat when idling. I do not remember the temp gauge hanging out at HOT all the time but I do think it would go higher than the middle range.
The car has yet to actually overheat. Apparently the mechanic can't diagnose/repair the problem until the engine DOES overheat, at least this is what he has told me. I'm not feeling very confident in this mechanic, as clearly the problem is getting worse over time. And I don't believe it is OK to continue driving a car when the temp gauge is at HOT all the time, that doesn't seem smart at all. Sadly, the mechanic that used to work on my car & was able to diagnose & repair problems quickly & competently has gone to work somewhere else & is no longer working on cars. So, I have decided I cannot continue to use the current mechanic and am now faced with having to take it to the dealership, something I REALLY hate to do. I just don't know of any other reputable Honda repair folks in the area & am tired of being w/o my car for days at a time and still have to deal with the problem.
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I have a 2001 Honda CR-V SE, and I'm having a little trouble with it ... About a week ago I noticed that as I was driving around the city, my temp gauge was going up and down. I had the heat on, and when I was pressing the gas, the gauge would go down. When I coasted, the gauge would go back up to the middle. The gauge never went higher than the halfway point. I thought it was possible that my fluids were low, so I checked the coolant reservoir. It was empty, so I added some. The radiator itself was full to the lip (like the manual says it should be, if I interpreted it correctly). The first day or two, didn't notice anything, but then the gauge seemed to start falling again.
Anyhow, I decided to drive back to the big city to get it fixed, a 3 hr drive, last night. The car seemed to be operating fine. I did not have the heat on, but there was air flowing through the vents. The gauge started to creep downward, so I thought "Hey, let me hit that button that closes the vents" I did that, and the gauge creeped back up! Problem solved right? Negative! It was raining, so when that button was on too long, my windows got foggy. So that's how I spent the next two hours, button on, button off, then I finally just opened the windows to allow the air to circulate. In the meantime, I stopped for gas, allowed the car to idle for a while (no air/heat blowing at all) and the guage didn't move. It stayed in the middle.
Closer to the end of my trip the gauge started to creep upward, over the midpoint (The first time it's done that since this whole thing has started). Once off the highway, I turned the heat on that first notch, and the gauge went back down to normal.
At any rate, so it's Wednesday. I'm planning on getting the car to a shop on Friday, but in the meantime, I just wanted to get some info out there from the community. I'm pretty nervous about whats going to happen. I just had my car at an oil change place 5 days ago, and the guy didn't put the oil cap back on the engine, so I literally was driving for 3 days with oil spewing onto my hood (Checked the levels by the way and they were fine). The only way I would've known is that I opened the hood to check the coolant levels. I noticed the gauge issue last Wed, took it in for the oil change Friday (In which they said all my fluids were fine), checked the coolant Monday, and drove it 3hrs last night.
Are there any specific keywords I should mention to the mechanic for him/her to check?
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I have a 1998 Honda Accord with about 170k miles on it. Lately, I've noticed that the temperature gauge creeps up to about 3/4 of the way to max when I'm driving in heavy traffic and running the air conditioner. This is the only time it goes past the midpoint, and it usually starts going up after maybe 15-20mn of sitting in traffic. If I turn the A/C off, the temperature immediately starts going back down to normal. Also, when traffic is flowing at normal speeds, I can have the a/c on for hours with no issues. The air conditioning itself is also pretty ineffective in heavy traffic situations. It gets very cold when I'm moving at a decent speed, but is pretty weak at low speeds. I just had the radiator replaced about six months ago, and it doesn't seem to be a coolant issue. What the issue could be?
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How do I get my gauge needles to run a cycle on start up? It is even possible?
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