Honda Accord :: 2014 I4 CVT - Tight Steering And Stiff Brake Boost / RPM Fluctuates On Cold Start
Dec 31, 2014
My 2014 Accord i4 CVT has 7000miles and it has acted a little strange ever since I pushed it to 3500rpm at Sport mode and then I maybe abruptly shifted it to Drive mode, at which point it made some whining noise shortly. But don’t get me wrong, acceleration was gentle and I don’t ever beat a car.
Since that incidence, it idles at 1500rpm upon cold start at P and fluctuates between 1000rpm and 1100rpm after it warms up a little bit (still in Park). When on stop (brake) on D, it has slight rough idle that periodically comes and goes, which gets better when the A/C is off but not completely resolves. Acceleration is sluggish and lagging, and it has some “dragging/sluggish” feel on coasting as well. When braking, it takes more effort and brake feels stiffer as if it lacks some break boost. Also, the electric power steering gets heavy/tight (I think this could be more of a sensor/input problem rather than the motor).
All these symptoms come and go together except for the fluctuating idle upon cold start, which is persistent. Gently pushing gas at 1200 rpm for, say 10 seconds, tend to “free” the tight steering wheel, and car starts to act more normally with better coasting and acceleration, and more responsive brake for a while. And problem comes back. Also, turning off the A/C seems to make the car act behave notably better but I am cautious of this point since it is known that Honda’s A/C system really takes away the engine power.
I had the dealer shop check for vacuum leak. The report says “check idle, check idle control, check for vacuum leaks ok, check or any codes, checks ok”, basically saying there is no vacuum leak. But I think it is still possible that they missed something. Dealer shops and some independent shops I visited aren’t so willing to figure out what is going on, and I basically need to ask them “check this and check that”.
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So our 2006 f150 fx4 has been having an issue with stiff steering... at times like it doesn't have power steering at all.
We recently had the lower ball joints on both sides replaced. Before that the upper control arm on the drivers side was also replaced.
There are days that it is better... other times not so much.
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!995 honda accord, 5 speed. Idle is fine until the engine warms up, then fluctuates between 1500 to 2500 rpms. The idle control valve was cleaned- no change. Valve was also replaced -also with no change. Put old valve back on. Computer was disconnected after cleaning and also after each valve change.Would the next step be to remove and clean the fast idle thermo sensor? Also how do you check the coolant lines coming in. Anything else I would need to check, clean or replace.
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My 2007 Honda Accord has been having a noisy power steering pump for the last 8 months. I would have changed the power steering pump however the noise only occurs in the morning- especially when its cold. I live in Southern California so its really never that cold (mid 40’s). Once I drive the car for a few miles the noise completely goes away (especially after driving high speed). Lately, the pump is making the noise every morning.
Immediately after the noise started I had the power steering fluid flushed and system bleed for air pockets. 2 months ago the dealer changed the return line on the system because of a recall on the power steering system. Still the noise continues! I noticed the power steering fluid looks a little frothy when the car is running. Don’t know if this is normal. Car has about 150k miles.
Should I change the power steering pump? Or have the fluid flushed again. What might be causing the noise? The last time I flushed the system it only stop the noise for about a month.
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I have a 1998 Honda Accord 4 cylinder with roughly 150k miles. When the weather is cold outside the steering wheel will shake until the car warms up. I have taken the car into the shop and they checked the engine mounts, tie rods, etc and they told me that the car is fine. The tires are not unbalanced nor are they packed with dirt or debris. The vibration only occurs when the car is cold and it goes away once the car warms up. Also, the vibration will stop when I simply place a small amount of pressure on the steering wheel with my hand or knee. The vibration does not occur when I am driving at low or high speeds and it usually only occurs when I am stopped at stop signs or lights.
I have done the regular maintenance on the vehicle and I have replaced the timing belt, spark plugs/ wires, belt(s), etc, if that make a difference.
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2005 Honda Accord Growls When Cold/CoolLast winter on real cold days (okay, real cold in Houston, TX, means around freezing to about 40 degrees), a loud growl came from under the hood. The growl stayed until things under the hood warmed up a little. While it was warming, the growling would slowly diminish; however, if the steering wheel was deflected, it would aggravate the growling noise. I checked the fluid in the power steering pump, and it was fine. I did some on-line research, and it appears that the Honda's power steering pump's bearings might be going bad. Is there anything that can be done preemptively to avoid the expense of replacing the power steering pump? (I hear they are expensive to replace.) Last month I was in Kansas City and the growl was barely audible on a 64 degree morning. I fear it is getting worse and will not last long.
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I have a 2000 Honda accord and in the cold it has a hard time starting. It will turn over but it is like it is not starting right away. I also notice there are times when it starts to turn over but then it dies out.
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I took care of a vacuum leak on this car but I still have an Idle issue on a cold start it doesn't wont to idle at all once I get it warmed up it idle's in park and Neutral fine as soon as I put into drive it want's to die I can keep it going by letting of the gas and then pushing the gas peddle again and take of quickly. Stopping at red lights I have to hurry and put it into neutral or it will die having the ac on makes it worse.
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My daughter owns a 1992 Honda Accord wagon, she cannot get it to start on colder days. Sometimes she goes out and runs a hair dryer over the engine, it works, but it is getting worse. Her husband says that is ridiculous to do.
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I'm a bit concerned about my faithful old 1997 Honda Accord DX.
I noticed a particularly slow start a few weeks ago, so I went to Batteries and Bulbs for a quick check. The battery, which was a little over a year old, was already half dead. They swapped it out under partial warranty in case that was the cause.
This morning - same deal. It turned over 4-5 times with a particularly large squeal in the middle of the cranking, but it finally started. I drove it ten minutes and parked it at my normal mechanic (met a friend there to drive her to work, since her Honda has a check engine light on) and it cranked up immediately there. Turned over once, and fired right up.
The last time I thought I heard a funny noise on starting and took it to get checked out (and get an oil change at the same time), my mechanic swore everything was fine. In fact, he said "Your car is perfect." I'm concerned if I take it in without having some suggestions on what to check this time that I'll be dismissed as a car hypochondriac.
The car has 222K miles on it. Last tune up was around 200K miles, last timing belt change at 190K miles.
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AC used for the first time since purchasing the truck last Oct. I notice and passengers in truck with me as well notice that the AC is not strong at all and it fluctuates from cold to warm with a heavy damp smell almost like its letting fresh air in mixing with the cold AC. It seems to be doing this more so when driving but will also do it at at idle after driving. Of course dealership states perfect temp blowing @34 and Freon at perfect levels. Max AC will not blow you out of the truck and reg ac at lowest setting feels like its on a vent setting. When AC first comes out it smells very damp mildew smell. 2013 F-150 Limited 3.5.....
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I have a Hyundai Accent 2001 and today while driving the battery light and brake light both went on and the steering wheel became "stiff" - hard to turn - although driving in a straight line seemed to be as usual.
I would just take it to the garage, but although it still starts as usual, it seems hard and probably a bad idea to drive it there in its current condition.
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My car is a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. the car is bone stock, I can not hold boost and it fluctuates all over the place. the dv sounded like a flutter until I bypassed the n249 now it sounds like a steady pssh. car still would only make 4lbs of boost and drop to 1-2lbs after 3500rpm. I pulled the line off the n75 to wastegate and did a pull. it boosted to 8lbs spiked to 15 and held 4lbs, if the tires spun it would spike to 12-15lbs and drop to 4 again. I replaced the n75 today and now will still spike high if I spin, with traction boosts about 8lbs which I believe is stock but then drops to 1-2 lbs then up to 4 down to 1-2 sometimes up to 6, it seems random. I also pinched off the dv to see if that was the problem but same thing.
I'm wondering how my car could lose boost with the wastegate actuator unhooked, I can not find a boost leak(not saying there isn't one, but haven't found one), the car holds more boost with the n75 unplugged and under acceleration, with n75 plugged in it seems like 3 surges per gear?
Car throws one code p1473 its an evap code.
The wastegate sounds like its closing when I pull the rod and let it go, lots of tension on it.
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I am running the GIAC X+ 93 octane tune with a cold air intake and when i hit full boost it fluctuates from 20 to 15 through out the gear. i am guessing its because of my stock dv. im looking in buying the eurojet dv.
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Last week I took my 2004 Honda Odyssey in to Firestone for a rear brake job and they ended up selling me an oil change, two new tires, alignment, an alternator drive belt, and two front engine mounts as well. When I picked up the vehicle late Friday afternoon, I noticed the power steering was making a whining noise and the steering seemed a little stiff. I took it back to Firestone Saturday morning, and they looked under the hood and said my power steering fluid was low, so they topped it off. That fixed the whining, but the steering still had a bit of a kink in it. They said it might be an air bubble in the line that would work itself out. Monday morning on my way to work, the whining was back and the steering very stiff and getting noticibly worse by the minute, so I took it directly back to Firestone.
It turns out the rack and pinion is leaking, and Firestone denies that it could have happened while they had the vehicle. The manager I spoke to said "all we did was replace a couple of belts -- didn't even get near the rack and pinion." Well, that's not all they did, but if anything they did could have caused the current issue. I know there were no suspension or power steering issues before I took it in, and after I picked it up suddenly it's leaking fluid like crazy. What can I do or say to press my case?
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So recently, my car started making whining noises upon turning the steering wheel during cold starts. Now, it does it when the car is warmed up too. From what I can hear, its only during slow speeds. Can't take my car to the dealership anymore cause they will charge me $140 diagnostic fee for whatever issues I'm having due to my car being "tampered" with previously. (It's all stock now).
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87k miles with no problems ever. I was driving on the highway last night and next thing you know I lost the engine/power and all the dash lights came on so I pulled over and after the dash lights stopped kind of flickering I could not start the car back up. I tried all the tricks I read about...holding the start button in for 30 seconds, rocking the car to loosen brakes, etc and still car wont start. I have a new battery and car was just serviced last week. Oil is good. Radio and all electronics work fine. Brake light comes on when depressed but its stiff. I tried a code reader on it and its generating zero codes.
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The red dash light for my parking brake stays on until I jiggle the brake handle, then it stays off until I re-start the car the next time and then it goes on again. Brake fluid is fine.
Appears to be a faulty switch attached to the handle. How do I fix this? Is it a major job? [it's a 1998 Honda Accord]
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Every morning when i leave to work my brake light begins to turn on, when i go over a bump or brake it shuts off. But only happens in the mornings when my car sits over night or long periods of time . What is the cause of this and how can it be replaced?
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I have a 2007 GS 350 AWD and when I got into the car yesterday the car wouldn't start. It won't even turn on to turn on the radio or roll down windows. The steering wheel and brakes are stiff and the last message I saw was S/T Lock on the dash. I thought it was the battery since sometimes when leaving the lights on auto mode they don't turn off which I thought killed the battery. I bought a brand new battery after trying to recharge the "dead" one and even with the new battery nothing happens. Just now after hitting the unlock button a bunch of times I tried starting it and the ignition button turned green a load up screen came up but still wouldn't start. Now it's back to doing nothing with the steering wheel and brakes stiff with no green ignition light.
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I have an issue when I go to start the car after it sits for as little as 30 min.The brake pedal is stiff and its hard to start since you have to depress the brake pedal prior to starting the car .
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