Honda - Accord :: 2011 - Transmission Is Shifting Roughly
May 26, 2012
My 2001 Honda Accord LX automatic transmission with 103,000 miles has been shifting roughly for about a year. The car is in excellent shape otherwise. I've changed the oil & filter regularly @ 3,000 miles, just had the rotors turned. Last year, based on what the manuel says to do, I had the transmission fluid drained and replaced. It seemed better for about 6 months. The rough shifting seems to happen most when going from 2nd to 1st and vice versa. Last week when I accelerated to take off @ a traffic light it made a huge clunking sound & it was like I went over a speed bump as I took off. That sent me to a transmission shop!
Through a test drive & putting on the scanner, shop #1 says it has a major transmission malfunction & said need to take apart, rebuild & put back together. Shop #2 does the same testing & says basically the same thing & all they can tell me to take it apart & put it back together, with the unknown being what is wrong & what will be the total cost! Shop #3, same testing, but they went a step further and dropped the transmission pan & found the forward clutches in there. They recommended rebuilding transmission, replacing forward clutches which includes torque converter, pump, gasket seals, etc.
My specific questions are:
1) What is the function of the forward clutches?
2) Does the diagnosis & remedy sound correct
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord LX V6 auto with about 125k on it.It seems to me that when I'm going downhill for example - so I am not giving it gas - it feels like its running rough - sort of. It kind of feels like the brakes are being applied then released, applied then released.Now, once summer arrived and I had to start using the AC all the time, after the car was warmed up and having run for 20+ minutes, it would REALLY start running rough. I watch the tachometer and it bounces up and down. When I turn off the car for awhile like to go into the grocery store, when I come out and try to start it, it wont. It just cranks but wont catch. If I do manage to get it to catch, it stalls. I have managed to get it to catch-apply the gas and pop it in to drive and make it home, but something is obviously very wrong and I don't want to get stuck somewhere. I have a code reader and the car has not produced any codes.
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I have a 2011 Sonata GLS with 86k miles. Sometimes, like once every 2-3 days, when I start the car, nothing appears in the box that says "P, R, N, D". The transmission also acts very strange. I often don't notice the blank box when I start the car, but immediately notice it when I put it in reverse or drive. There is an awful "clunk" from the transmission, and the car drives like I'm driving it through 6 inches of mud. I stop, put it in park, restart the car, the problem is gone.
The dealer said if it is a problem with the shift lever, that is not covered under the drivetrain warranty. I really don't have the money for the dealer to do expensive diagnostics/repair.
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I have a 2004 Honda Accord EX 4 cyl. with 156k miles.
A couple days ago, the CEL came on. It drove fine, but if I accelerated it wouldn't shift smoothly. It felt like it was hitting the rev limiter.
I took it to get scanned, but the reader didn't work. On my way to another shop, the light went off.
Today, the light came back on with the same symptoms. No shops were open, so I disconnected the battery hoping to reset things, and it worked! No other issues on the way to work. Smooth shifts, smooth idle, simply normal.
Obviously there's an issue. Getting it scanned is a pain; AutoZone and the like cant scan in CA any more. What is the culprit? I'm guessing O2 sensor.
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Had my original clutch replaced by mechanic. Had 200K on it. Car clutch petal vibrates badly when bringing clutch pedal out after shifting. Mechanic states it has to do with motor mounts that were affected when changing clutch or the clutch takes time to seal and stop vibrating in the next 500 miles. I have warranty for 12 months and 12,000 miles. Which I had no problem of vibration before having clutch replaced? What is the problem and how to proceed.
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After a round of extensive maintenance this month, I thought my '02 was once again a road-ready betty. Just my luck! On the drive home from the shop Friday afternoon, I noticed a hard shift when upshifting from 2nd to 3rd. I've done some test driving over the last couple of days, and here's what I've noticed:
1) If I apply too much gas, I intermittently get a little bump—very subtle—when it kicks into first gear from a running stop. The car seems to engage fine at start.2) If I apply too much gas approaching 30MPH in 2nd gear, where I think it would normally shift into 3rd, the transmission upshifts late and hard. The more gas I apply, the harder the shift.3) Once, when gunning it at highway speeds, I got a little bump shifting into a cruising gear at around 70MPH.
I'm able to completely eliminate this problem if I am prudent with the accelerator. If I back off the gas before the tachometer hits 3000RPMs and wait a few seconds before accelerating again, the transmission shifts smoothly. I have not noticed any issues with coasting or downshifting.
I've had this car for a decade and 146K miles and it's driven like a dream every day until this symptom presented on Friday. I don't remember the last time the transmission fluid was changed, but I've never missed a scheduled service and I always use Honda dealer shops. I checked the fluid yesterday, and I think the colour (winey red) and odor (sweet) were both good. The car had been driven recently, and the level on the dipstick was higher than the second dot.
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I have a 2012 Honda Accord EX with a manual trans. It's a fly-by-wire system. When accelerating and shifting, the tac momentarily jumps various hundreds of RPMs when the clutch is in. That used to mean you weren't coming off the gas when the clutch was in. I've been driving manual trans cars for 45 years. I know how to shift. But, it was a new car, so maybe... I paid close attention and was not screwing up the shifts. Apparently the computer doesn't realize the clutch is in and the gas pedal has been released. Is this normal for these cars? Is it a problem? (other than wasting a half thimble full of gas and over-reving the engine?)
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I have an 04 Accord EXV6 with 237K miles. I have recently replaced shock absorber assemblies and all 6 motor mounts / transmission mounts, which resolved most of the loud "clunking" noises. However, I now have more of a "rattle" sound which I hear when one of three things happens...First, when the engine is started (typically when the engine is cold). Secondly, when shifting between park, reverse, and drive (also, more common when engine is cold). Lastly, when driving over rough roads or potholes at slow speed. The sound is the same in each of the 3 conditions, and appears to be coming from the right side. It doesn't seem to me that any bushings, control arms. etc. would be the cause since the same sound is heard during startup or gear shifting while the car is sitting still.
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My car is a 99 honda accord v6 EX (coupe)It started overheating about 2-3months ago. I was driving along and the needle on the gauge was completely on hot. I was able to make it home. Ive basically been driving it this whole time with the defrost on 80 and on full blast. Which keeps it around the halfway mark between hot and cold. I had a friend change my thermostat .. didn't fix it. Still overheats. But after he did that it seems to get hotter faster now. When I am at a stoplight it gets as hot as the gauge will let it go, then when I start driving again it cools down a little.
Now, after he changed the thermostat the car has been driving really rough. When I slow down to stop, it'll jerk a couple lightly then stop. When I accelerate from a stopped position it'll jerk a little then go. And when it shifts gears(its an automatic) it jerks very noticeably. So now im freaking out worrying my transmission is going too. So I guess what I am wanting to know is ... wtf is wrong with it??? Water pump? Ive been told if I change the water pump I need to have them change the timing belt too .. yes?
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I took my 1997 Honda Accord with 97,000 miles to the Honda dealer for a 90,000 mile service and changing of the timing belt. I also had them replace some gaskets, some other belts and the axles as they were not holding fluid. When I got the car back the second time I drove it the check engine light came on and the car will not shift gears properly. When I start the car cold, put it in drive and accelerate the engine revs for a few seconds before the gears will engage.
This continues whenever I stop and accelerate. It also happens whenever the car is ready to switch to a higher gear. The engine revs past 3000 rpm and then will shift a second or two later. The dealer says I need to change a rebuilt transmission. The Bluebook on the car is only about $3000. I'm having difficulty evaluating the best course of action. What is the reliability of a rebuilt transmission?
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I have a 2011 honda accord with 15,000 miles on it that Has only gotten 20mpg since it was new. It is supposed to get 23mpg city and 34mpg highway. I figured I was the tires but since fixing the leaking valve stems it is still only 20mpg. I asked the dealer about it several times during oil changes after I first bought it and they claimed to look into it and find nothing wrong. Is there anything I can do to fix this or would it be covered under new yorks lemon laws?
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Which one is better and why?
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I have a 2011 honda accord and removed the brake fluid cap just fine to check it, in about October but I went to check it again today and the cap won't come off, I wonder if it's because of the cold weather? (36 f) It came off so easy last time I don't remember which way to turn it, and if I should press up or down when turning. The cap will rotate about a quarter inch either way, then won't go any farther. It hits these little white plastic pieces stopping it from going farther.
Here is a picture of what it looks like [URL] .... if you try to turn it left it gets caught on that little white plastic piece on the bottom and there is a similar piece stopping it from going right.
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MY 1993 Honda Accord has been having trouble starting a few times and now the transmission is slipping. It has close to 200 Thousand miles.
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I am the original owner of a 1999 Honda Accord (automatic transmission) which now has 184,000 miles on it. I just replaced all the tires last year, had to put in a new battery this year, also had to replace the a/c hoses earlier in July.Very recently I had had some problems with the car shifting and when the check engine light came on I took it into the dealership who says it needs a new transmission. They want $4200 to fix it.I have had all the servicing done including oil and filter changes at this dealership which is in Houston, TX.I really like this car, and its the fourth Honda we have owned; three of which were purchased with this same dealer.
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I took my 2000 Honda Accord to the mechanic and he told me my transmission is failing. He suggested that I put in a re-built transmission. I trust my mechanic, but considering the car has 207,000 miles on it I am not sure if it is a wise investment. Besides the jerking the car is in good condition and have taken it to the same mechanic for maintenance since I bought it 14 years ago, but I am not sure how long a re-built transmission will last. I only need to get 2-3 more years out of this car until I save up enough money to buy a new car.
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When I had other repairs done they told me that problem was in the number 2 cylinder and it was an internal problem. It was out of their league. I called Honda dealership, they had a girl on the phone and she said she couldn't give me a quote I would have to pay 85. to find out what it was. I don't think she knew what she was talking about. i need a quote how much this should be to fix it before I pay 85. for something that maybe thousands of dollars to fix. The car jerks when it is going into another gear especially in the 1st and 2nd gear. It like shoots off. Jerks and then kicks. If ya know what I mean. Like a transmission slip but I had that checked, that wasn't it. confirmed 2 places that is not the issue.
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The other day in our 2001 Honda Accord sedan, 4cyl, 140k miles, we were driving and the wheel became, how do you say, less attached to the car than it used to be? The wheel and the car had a nasty break-up and we were caught right in the middle of it. (see pictures) We were driving down a straight road, going straight, and boom, the wheel fell off and the car landed on one of the suspension bits . We were doing 30 and did fine. But we had literally just exited the freeway, where we were doing 70, a minute or two before this happened. Further, there was no noise, no vibration before this happened. The car was acting quite normally.
We had it fixed at a Honda dealership. We were on the road and it set us back $1070 and a full day. But there you are. So the problem is fixed, and I asked the dealership people to please inspect the other ball joints.
But...now I'm paranoid every time I drive the car. And I want to check them for myself. I read about the jack the car up and try and shake the tire trick. Is that foolproof? Is there more I can do to make certain that all the remaining bits that are supposed to be holding the wheel on are not, in fact, about to break?
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At 55k, 72k, 76K and 91k the rear brakes have hung up, become very hot and smoked badly. Dealer service claims it comes from rust binding the calipers because we live in the Northeast. I've been driving for 35 years and never had an issue with any other vehicle. They cleaned the calipers and sent me on my way. I think there is an underlying issue. There is no way I should have this issue every 20,000 miles ( or less ). What else could cause this? Brake Lines? Master Cyl? Honda service want nothing to do with it. At very least I asked them to replace the calipers which they did not agree to do.
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My 98 honda v6 accord shifts hard sometimes when going into and out of low gears. The transmission guy told me it had to do with the material that was on the clutches wearing off, dislodging, and clogging things. I have been driving the car for several years as is. Should I have the tranny rebuild or keep driving? Am I making matters worse by driving it as is?
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Okay just got a 1992 honda accord automatic and sometimes when you stop at a light it will downshift to first and take off other times it wont downshift and stay in overdrive on take off...
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