Honda - Accord :: 2011 - Loud Thump When Put It In Reverse And Slowly Let Go Of The Brake
May 16, 2014
Today my car made a pretty loud thump when I put it in reverse and slowly let go of the brake. I haven't driven the car in 2 weeks. Afterwards, every time I brake there is a soft thumping sound that I can feel through the steering wheel, and the sound slows down with the speed of the car. I think I can also hear a very slight grinding noise while driving slowly in a quiet area.
I read in this forum to use the parking brake in an empty lot to see if its coming from the back tires. My question is, what was that loud thump in the beginning? Also, is it safe to drive to the mechanic (or can I fix it myself..)?
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I have a problem about which the mechanics I have asked are baffled: In cool, cloudy or sunny weather, my brakes and break-pedal pressure are fine (the mechanics have said I have good fluid, brakes, etc.--they can find nothing wrong--and, of course, it never has a problem when they test-drive my car). However, when the weather warms up and it's a bright, sunny day, my brake pedal loses pressure and slowly sinks to the floor--a dangerous thing at intersections. There's slight pressure if I pump the pedal constantly while at a light; but, without pumping, the pedal immediately sinks to the floor.
This is a real problem, because this problem always occurs right when mechanics are not near or not open for business--and none I've talked to have ever heard of such a problem. The bright, hot sun's affect seems to be key, because if it's 80 degrees outside and cloudy, I don't have the issue--but, then again, I don't usually run the air conditioner if it's cloudy. As such, I'm not positive; but, this may be tied to when I turn on the air conditioner--as though the two share the same vacuum system.
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I have a 2011 honda accord and removed the brake fluid cap just fine to check it, in about October but I went to check it again today and the cap won't come off, I wonder if it's because of the cold weather? (36 f) It came off so easy last time I don't remember which way to turn it, and if I should press up or down when turning. The cap will rotate about a quarter inch either way, then won't go any farther. It hits these little white plastic pieces stopping it from going farther.
Here is a picture of what it looks like [URL] .... if you try to turn it left it gets caught on that little white plastic piece on the bottom and there is a similar piece stopping it from going right.
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What can I do about my car it's not shifting, it's stuck in high gear and when I go from park to reverse it makes a loud thump. The check engine light came on and the codes are transmission control module it's a 2006 and only has 30,000 miles on it. It's hard to believe it's the brain so we changed the fluid and cleaned the sylinoids but then when I drove it around the block I put it in reverse it didn't make the loud noise and it shifted fine for a minute before I got around the block and almost home it made a loud banging noise and went back to not shifting again. What the problem could be.
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I just got a 2009 lexus gs 350 everything is perfect except when i go into reverse and back up slowly the brakes make a loud squeaking noise!! Its really annoying and embarrassing. I got the rotors resurfaced and nothing.
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Recently I started hearing a rattling/grinding metallic sound coming off the right rear while driving slowly. This sound is not reproduced when braking.At first it started while doing sharp right turns only, now its ever present while driving. I showed it to a mechanic he says rotors needs to be replaced. Is he right? 2003 Honda Accord V6....
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The red dash light for my parking brake stays on until I jiggle the brake handle, then it stays off until I re-start the car the next time and then it goes on again. Brake fluid is fine.
Appears to be a faulty switch attached to the handle. How do I fix this? Is it a major job? [it's a 1998 Honda Accord]
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Every morning when i leave to work my brake light begins to turn on, when i go over a bump or brake it shuts off. But only happens in the mornings when my car sits over night or long periods of time . What is the cause of this and how can it be replaced?
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord, 4 cylinder, automatic transmission. Transmission slips in reverse when backing up a slight incline. Will changing the transmission fluid solve this problem? The car has 115000 miles on it.
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I've recently noticed that my 2013 hyundai sonata would start vibrating/shaking, if I were to release my brakes slowly (It doesn't shake if I release it fast). I was wondering if there are any problems with that?
I do not feel any vibration in the car when I press /slam the brake. The only time I feel the car shaking is when I would slowly release the brake.
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Had this issue with my Kia Optima 2013 pertaining to the brake pedal, now with my 14 Sonata Limited. When in stop and go traffic, parking lot driving, or pulling into the garage that requires a lighter touch on the brake pedal, the pedal has a creaking feel to it, like when closing a creaky door. I can make this happen of course when I push the brake pedal slowly with my hand. This also happens when letting up on the pedal slowly/lightly. Kind of annoying, but the brakes work just fine and dandy
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1992 Honda Accord with 104,000 miles automatic transmission..was my mom's car and has been consistently maintained and serviced and gently driven!!The car performs well until...about 3 weeks ago when it starting revving up and the D4 light stayed on even when I was in reverse. Idling high and Drove like the car was in high gear.
Mechanic #1 checked the gear position switch and checked connection at Trans ECM. After unplugging and re-pluging in connector system functioned properly. And it did for about one week. then we were back to the same problem and it was clear that the car was not shifting like it should.
Mechanic #2 didn't provide much feedback: he emphatically stated that it was a transmission problem and that the trans would absolutely need to be rebuilt: price quote: $3500 including labor. I'm scratching my head at this point & reaching for the aspirin..as little as I know about cars I'm wondering how a transmission needs to be rebuilt at 104k?
Oh well..as much as I like this car, I don't want to put in $3500 and hope for the best. Mechanic #3 is a Hondo maven..and he says it's not the transmission...this is what he says: checked for codes; found none. Reset Transmission computer by removing power to it resulting in the car running better and D4 light if off. He advises that we Wait & See if problem happens again.. He suspects a possible electrical problem. Car does drive better and the D4 light remains off but when I get on the freeway the car seems stressed and noisy and when I decelerate, it's noisy. I am waiting for the other foot to drop.
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I have a 2002 honda accord dx. We have had to get it fixed a few months ago. It had something to do with the cooling system. Ran fine until recently. It ran hot. I pulled over. Let it cool. Never happened again. I watch my temperature gauge and only drive it around town.
Today, I left it running for a short time while I picked up my son to keep the air conditioner running. As I was walking out the door, I heard a loud pop and smoke started pouring out from under the hood. I ran out and turned the car off immediately. I'm freaking out! I'm letting it cool now. I haven't popped the hood yet.
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I have a 2000 honda accord. I have it for a long time and then few months ago i just notice that every time my car reaches 40 km/hr onward, my car is producing a loud sound even i put it in neutral sound will never gone it will only go back to its normal sound when the car goes 39 km/hr down. My car has a problem with the cv joint i think because i can hear a "tik-tik" sound every time I am turning. do you thing the loud sound comes from the cv joint too?
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX v6 and I have been taking it the dealer for regular maintenance and Oil Change but today I noticed my Car would not start
I can hear the engine start , but when I put the Gear (automatic ) in either reverse or D4 the engine will stop.
Then I waited for some time and restarted it and It was OK.
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord with 207,000 miles on it. It's been doing the following:
- From Reverse to Drive, there’s a 2 - 3 second pause before it engages
- Sometimes when driving at higher speeds (55 - 70mph) then slowing down for a light or an exit, the car will sort of lurch/jerk around 30mph on the slow down. It’s very noticeable.
- Check Engine light has been coming on off for months. I thought it was a gas cap issue but the mechanic said it’s a P0506 code.
- Hard shifting in my day-to-day driving- Just fyi, we had the transmission rebuilt a year and a half ago.
We’ve taken it to the transmission shop twice and they said they don’t feel the things we describe and are getting no codes. We’ve taken it to the Honda dealer twice and the honda mechanic did a software update that didn’t fix the issue. I took it back and then he said he felt the hard shift/delay from R to D and that it is a transmission issue because the engine wouldn’t be engaged at all from R to D. The CE light wasn’t on for that visit and wasn't giving a code but then the CE light came back on when I was on my way back to the transmission shop. I read that there are specific things to do to try to clear the P0506 code (clean the throttle body, check for vacuum leaks, etc.) but our Honda dealer didn’t do any of those things.
Is there an engine issue related to the P0506 code that could make my car do these things but feel like a transmission issue even if it’s not (since I’m not getting any transmission codes)? Could I have two separate issues - whatever is triggering the P0506 code and then whatever is making the car shift hard, slow to engage, and jerk when slowing down? My transmission guy told me since they’re not feeling anything or getting any codes, the only thing left for them to do is take out the transmission. I’m at a loss and feel like I’m wasting their time, but there’s definitely something wrong.
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I have a 2002 Honda Accord, manual transmission, 135k miles.When I reverse, turn the wheel all the way to the left or right, then accelerate (in reverse), I get a loud clunk from the front. I'm assuming it's something from the front suspension, but I wanted to see what more knowledgeable minds thought.There's no clunk when in forward or in reverse while the wheel is not turned.
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Was driving 97 honda Accord 4 cylinder today when it made a loud rattling noise, took it in to advanced auto parts to see if they could give me a hint to what was wrong, as I was showing the employee the noise got progressively worse and he told me the connecting rod was loose and I could make it home if I went under 35 he mentioned something about tightening two bolts but having to drop the oil pan to get to it, as I was driving home the noise eventually turned into a clunk and the car died, when I try to start it up you can hear the engine turn but there is nothing after that, don't know much about cars but what is the process I need to go through to replace this connecting rod myself and how to get the car to start again.
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My car started making a loud, high pitched "whooping" and "whining" noise when making corners. The pitch is medium to high and variable. It kind of sounds like wet rubber on glass (like a squeegee). The first time it happened I thought it was a police siren, like when they sound the siren in short bursts "whoop! whoop!". But now the sound is more like a prolonged whine/groan. The sound might be coming from the steering column, but I can't be sure. Its definitely on the driver's side and in the front.
The sound is not related to braking. It doesn't happen on every turn. It can happen when starting from a stop or when already in motion. It happens on both flat ground and hills. At first it seemed to happen on cold days and only in the morning. I think this might have been a coincidence since now it happens throughout the day, every day.
My car is a 1993 honda accord with approximately 315,000 miles.
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I have a 2011 honda accord with 15,000 miles on it that Has only gotten 20mpg since it was new. It is supposed to get 23mpg city and 34mpg highway. I figured I was the tires but since fixing the leaking valve stems it is still only 20mpg. I asked the dealer about it several times during oil changes after I first bought it and they claimed to look into it and find nothing wrong. Is there anything I can do to fix this or would it be covered under new yorks lemon laws?
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My 2005 Accord V-6 makes a howling (actually a loud whine) when started in very cold weather (e.g., below 25 degrees). The sound goes a way after a few miles driving. It appears to come from a small "pump" looking thing at the top and on the left (facing the car) of the engine, which is attached to a pulley. My mechanic - although he did not actually hear it - says it's nothing to worry about; it's just the cold.
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