Honda - Accord :: 2011 - Brake Fluid Cap Won't Open
Feb 5, 2016
I have a 2011 honda accord and removed the brake fluid cap just fine to check it, in about October but I went to check it again today and the cap won't come off, I wonder if it's because of the cold weather? (36 f) It came off so easy last time I don't remember which way to turn it, and if I should press up or down when turning. The cap will rotate about a quarter inch either way, then won't go any farther. It hits these little white plastic pieces stopping it from going farther.
Here is a picture of what it looks like [URL] .... if you try to turn it left it gets caught on that little white plastic piece on the bottom and there is a similar piece stopping it from going right.
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Today my car made a pretty loud thump when I put it in reverse and slowly let go of the brake. I haven't driven the car in 2 weeks. Afterwards, every time I brake there is a soft thumping sound that I can feel through the steering wheel, and the sound slows down with the speed of the car. I think I can also hear a very slight grinding noise while driving slowly in a quiet area.
I read in this forum to use the parking brake in an empty lot to see if its coming from the back tires. My question is, what was that loud thump in the beginning? Also, is it safe to drive to the mechanic (or can I fix it myself..)?
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2013 Accord Sport, 3k miles ... It's 10 degrees in WI today. This is 1st time I had this problem. I press the washer lever towards and the washer fluid comes out, but the wipers don't move. They are not stuck on the windshield because of ice or anything either. What can I check?The next question is the turn signal. What does the lever do when you push the lever towards the dash? It clicks, but I don't notice that it does anything?
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I have a 2010 Accord that started leaking power steering fluid at around 10,000 miles. In February 2011, I complained to the Honda service technician when I took the car in for an oil change about the leak. At that time, the service technician told me he did not see a leak and that I should simply continue adding power steering fluid as needed.
I took my car in for another oil change this month, now my car mileage is 46,000, and the technician informed me that the power steering fluid is linking and it is now necessary to replace the "rack" and "boots." The repair will cost about $1000. Though my car is no longer under warranty, the dealership agreed to pay for 50% of the repair. I have asked that the dealership pay for 100% of the repair, but I was told that they would not do that.
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2000 Honda Accord. Power steering fluid is coming up and out of the reservoir when the car is shut off. I recently had to take the hose off and move it out of the way just to make it easier to replace the belt. Lost some fluid and put more back in. And now this. Also is whining when you turn the steering wheel. What do I do?
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I have a 1991 Accord LX wagon that is leaking coolant. I figured it out b/c there is a green fluid pooled on the floor behind the passenger's seat. Why would coolant be leaking there? I bought this car in February and have been nickeled and dimed ever since. I want to sell it and get something else but I want to get the coolant problem fixed first and need to know if this is going to be expensive.
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Have a 1996 Honda Accord that had a tune up ( new plugs, wires etc). also had a leak in a radiator hose fixed. About a month later, the engine started to over heat. Fluid in radiator was very low, but no physical leak. Filled it up and in 3 days radiator is low again. This time I noticed a soft brown buildup around the radiator cap. I checked the oil filler cap to see if the underside was caramel color ( head gasket leak), but the cap was clean. Now, it is running rough and will not idle when I come to a stop. Can't figure out what is going on!
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The red dash light for my parking brake stays on until I jiggle the brake handle, then it stays off until I re-start the car the next time and then it goes on again. Brake fluid is fine.
Appears to be a faulty switch attached to the handle. How do I fix this? Is it a major job? [it's a 1998 Honda Accord]
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Every morning when i leave to work my brake light begins to turn on, when i go over a bump or brake it shuts off. But only happens in the mornings when my car sits over night or long periods of time . What is the cause of this and how can it be replaced?
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I have a 98 Honda Accord in pretty good shape even though it has 340,000 miles on it. For the past month I have intermittently been having the dash idiot light that shows all 4 doors and the trunk lid is open -- coming on. In addition, the "brake" light that is just to the right of the blue "high beam" dash light, also comes on and the past week the "battery" light comes on. It also seems like the headlights slightly dim and maybe even the blower motor slows down just little. It started out lasting less than a second and now last maybe 2 or 3 seconds. I took it by one of the Advanced Auto parts stores and they did a diagnose check on the alternator, starter and battery. Everything at that moment, checked out fine. Alternator checked out good during regular operation and under loaded condition. Almost everything on the car is original except timing belt.
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I just had my right drive axle replaced on my 1992 accord today at a mechanic chain store. I have notice fluid leaking/dripping from where the axle and transmission meet. What is occurring? Could it be they didn't replaced any seals or the axle is a wrong fit. Its a manual transmission by the way.
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I have a 09 Honda Accord manual transmission V6 with 59K miles. Recently, it seems to stick a little going into 3rd gear - only third. Called our local dealer's service department who said I should have done a drain and fill on my transmission fluid at 30K miles. I have driven manual transmissions for 30+ years and have never heard of this - but this is my first Honda. The owners manual is not very specific about this maintenance recommendation. Did I create unnecessary wear and tear to my transmission or is my dealers service tech just working to humble me?
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Yesterday the check engine light came on 03 Accord EX 4-cyl auto, the code is P2647. According to the dealership and O’Reilly print out it can be a number of things. The car starts running rough after 2700 rpms, and then (if you keep pressing accelerator) dies.
So I can drive it now as long as I do not accelerate too much. (That is great for the gas mileage, but does not work on the on-ramps)I did replace engine oil and filter yesterday, but the engine light is still on with the same code. The car has 175K miles.
O’Reilly manual suggests replacing:
•VTEC Oil pressure switch
•VCT Solenoid
•Pressure switch
•Solenoid Valve Assembly
The Honda Dealership said it might be:
•VTC Oil Control in Valve Assembly
•Valve Timing Oil pressure in the switch assembly
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The other day I noticed some brownish almost chunky looking fluid all over inside the wheel well for the front passenger side wheel. Doing some research it seems like it's probably a CV boot leak because that's where most of the fluid is concentrated. I took a few pictures. I just wanna know if this is serious???
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2001 Honda Accord 4 cylinder... At 256K miles I had the battery and open doors, open trunk lights illuminate intermittently. Initially the lights came on for 1/2 mile. 150 miles later it was more like 20 miles on, off for a mile, on for 40 miles, off for 25 miles, on for 10 miles, and then off. A Honda dealer ( after the first 20 miles of battery light being on and 70 miles from home) replaced the battery and the lights came back on a mile down the road. I managed to get home. With engine running running battery voltage was 14.4 volts. The light stayed off for 30 miles the next day. AutoZone found no diagnostic codes. A mechanic told me that the battery light could be intermittent with a failing alternator. I changed the alternator (cracked case). The voltmeter again showed 14.4 volts with engine running. Will the car return to reliability?
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I have a 2011 honda accord with 15,000 miles on it that Has only gotten 20mpg since it was new. It is supposed to get 23mpg city and 34mpg highway. I figured I was the tires but since fixing the leaking valve stems it is still only 20mpg. I asked the dealer about it several times during oil changes after I first bought it and they claimed to look into it and find nothing wrong. Is there anything I can do to fix this or would it be covered under new yorks lemon laws?
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Which one is better and why?
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My 2001 Honda Accord LX automatic transmission with 103,000 miles has been shifting roughly for about a year. The car is in excellent shape otherwise. I've changed the oil & filter regularly @ 3,000 miles, just had the rotors turned. Last year, based on what the manuel says to do, I had the transmission fluid drained and replaced. It seemed better for about 6 months. The rough shifting seems to happen most when going from 2nd to 1st and vice versa. Last week when I accelerated to take off @ a traffic light it made a huge clunking sound & it was like I went over a speed bump as I took off. That sent me to a transmission shop!
Through a test drive & putting on the scanner, shop #1 says it has a major transmission malfunction & said need to take apart, rebuild & put back together. Shop #2 does the same testing & says basically the same thing & all they can tell me to take it apart & put it back together, with the unknown being what is wrong & what will be the total cost! Shop #3, same testing, but they went a step further and dropped the transmission pan & found the forward clutches in there. They recommended rebuilding transmission, replacing forward clutches which includes torque converter, pump, gasket seals, etc.
My specific questions are:
1) What is the function of the forward clutches?
2) Does the diagnosis & remedy sound correct
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I have a 2007 Honda Accord. A few days ago I backed the car up to the front of the house, and in the reflection of the windows and glass I noticed my brake lights were very dim looking. The brake lights on this model/year are LED brake lights that are Honda genuine brake lights. After I noticed, I put the car in park and tapped the brake lights several times and noticed they got very bright, then very dim. Then bright, and dim again and so on and so forth. They also flickered on and off at one point while my foot was planted firmly on the brake pedal. Is this a popular known issue with these brake lights? What can I do to correct this? Took the car back to the dealership and they said there was nothing wrong. (Of course)
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The other day in our 2001 Honda Accord sedan, 4cyl, 140k miles, we were driving and the wheel became, how do you say, less attached to the car than it used to be? The wheel and the car had a nasty break-up and we were caught right in the middle of it. (see pictures) We were driving down a straight road, going straight, and boom, the wheel fell off and the car landed on one of the suspension bits . We were doing 30 and did fine. But we had literally just exited the freeway, where we were doing 70, a minute or two before this happened. Further, there was no noise, no vibration before this happened. The car was acting quite normally.
We had it fixed at a Honda dealership. We were on the road and it set us back $1070 and a full day. But there you are. So the problem is fixed, and I asked the dealership people to please inspect the other ball joints.
But...now I'm paranoid every time I drive the car. And I want to check them for myself. I read about the jack the car up and try and shake the tire trick. Is that foolproof? Is there more I can do to make certain that all the remaining bits that are supposed to be holding the wheel on are not, in fact, about to break?
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At 55k, 72k, 76K and 91k the rear brakes have hung up, become very hot and smoked badly. Dealer service claims it comes from rust binding the calipers because we live in the Northeast. I've been driving for 35 years and never had an issue with any other vehicle. They cleaned the calipers and sent me on my way. I think there is an underlying issue. There is no way I should have this issue every 20,000 miles ( or less ). What else could cause this? Brake Lines? Master Cyl? Honda service want nothing to do with it. At very least I asked them to replace the calipers which they did not agree to do.
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