Honda - Accord :: 2007 - Leaving The Car Sitting For A Year
Dec 26, 2011
I'm a Marine about to deploy to Afghanistan for a year. What I should do for my 2007 Honda Accord before I leave? I'm not planning to have anyone start it while I'm gone and it'll be in my garage while I'm gone.
My plan right now is to detach the battery and leave it. I'm going to buy an air compressor to put air back in the tires when I get back and I'll jump start it also since I'm anticipating the battery will be dead.
How I should leave it? Any recommended repairs before I leave? I just got the oil changed, transmission flushed, and throttle body cleaned since I just passed 60k miles.
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ok so i have a 1997 Honda crv 4wd 2.0l with 133k and its been sitting for over a year and a half. 5 months ago i decided to get it running so i replaced the battery changed the old oil and coolant and the power steering fluid and freed the brakes up and did a flush. The car started and ran fine. I drove it up and down the block fine no problems it had a little bit of gas right above the E mark when i stored it. SO 5 months ago i was going to insure the car but never did. now im trying to and it wont start.
Symptom Car turns over but does run. What i tired so far:
* Checked for spark by removing spark plug and ground it
* replaced battery
* sprayed engine starting fluid and can get the engine to run for a short time maybe like 20 secs if i keep spraying engine starting fluid in there but when i stop it stalls.
* recently put 5 gallons of fresh gas still nothing
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I have a '94 Camry that has not been started in a year. I'd like to either see if I can get it running again or donate it somewhere. But I heard recently that the onboard computer in a Camry has to be restarted if it's been idle a certain time. I've tried unsuccessfully to get any life signs when I tried to jump start it. Is this computer issue true?
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Car ran great prior to sitting for 4 months. Tried to jump it and it wouldn't turn over, so i figure the battery was dead. I replaced the batter with a new one, had fresh fuel added.
I then thought perhaps it might be the started, so I removed it and had it tested and it passed (it's working). Car still wont crank. I turn the key and there is nothing not a sound, except the fuel pump. No crank nor click? Not sure where to go from here?
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I have a 95 honda accord 2.2L, 135,000 miles. One day while sitting at a light the car started vibrating due to a rough idle problem. The idle speed is ok at about 750 rpm.
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So i have a 1996 honda accord, it has 253k miles, i know, alot of miles. Well, i noticed it has been losing coolant pretty fast, i would fill it up with coolant and it would run out by the next day. I also notice that when i am sitting still, it runs hot, not sure if that goes along with it losing coolant rapidly or if that could be something else. I checked my oil dipstick the other day, it doesn't seem to have coolant mixing in with the oil, so i don't think it would be a head blown, i know i do need a gasket changed, but not an actual head for the engine. I haven't noticed any coolant in my driveway, then again I shouldn't have a leak, i just had the radiator, thermostat, water pump and the bell housing all changed a couple months ago. I also noticed that i am running low on oil more often as well. The other day, after i topped it off with oil, it was blowing out white smoke off and on and then it stopped, what could that be?
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My clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad... 2007 Honda Accord Manual Transmission
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My 2007 Civic Hybrid is having trouble starting. This happens when it's cold out, it's been sitting outside overnight (I don't have a garage), and the IMA battery is low. I've taken it to the dealership but they were not surprisingly no luck. The car has about 65,000 miles and a new battery - the one in front - was put in not too long ago and tests fine.
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One car, which I have used a lot recently, had the check engine light come on yesterday, it was on all day, morning and evening, today it is off. I asked the person who had it last; he said it was not on. He did mention he filled it with premium, and I usually use the cheep stuff. Could this have just been some sort of adjustment to the new gas? Should I be concerned still? Or should I just let it go since the light is now off? I was going to try and go to a mechanic next week, but would prefer not to as I would have to take vacation time to do so. While cheaper, the maintenance and time-off involved is the down side to my companies program. Do I check it out? Or let it go? It's a 2007 Honda Accord Fleet Edition with 30,000 miles.
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My 07 Accord V6 won't turn over. Brand new battery showing 12.5 volts, and I checked all the fuses. All other electrical is in working condition. Had the wife turn the key while I tapped on the starter with no luck. Then I measured the voltage coming into the solenoid from the starter while sitting there and 0 volts, then had the wife turn the key and it was showing 10.5 volts.
I took off the kick panel and swapped the ACC relay for the starter cut relay ( they're identical) and still nothing. I'm pretty much down to it being a problem with the ignition switch, but I'm not looking forward to getting into the steering column. What else it could be, or have some tips for what I should do / be looking for if I get into the steering column?
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I have a 2007 Honda Accord. A few days ago I backed the car up to the front of the house, and in the reflection of the windows and glass I noticed my brake lights were very dim looking. The brake lights on this model/year are LED brake lights that are Honda genuine brake lights. After I noticed, I put the car in park and tapped the brake lights several times and noticed they got very bright, then very dim. Then bright, and dim again and so on and so forth. They also flickered on and off at one point while my foot was planted firmly on the brake pedal. Is this a popular known issue with these brake lights? What can I do to correct this? Took the car back to the dealership and they said there was nothing wrong. (Of course)
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The MIL came on (steady on, not blinking) about a month ago on a very rainy day. The car felt sluggish going from stop to start and at low speed, but then it was OK at higher speed (>40 mph). I checked the fuel cap, which was tightened appropriately. I went to my mechanic. His computer diagnosed the problem to be malfunctioning of the "throttle position sensor". I had the throttle position sensor replaced. About two weeks after the new sensor was put in, the MIL came on again and went off in two days. Two days later it came on again (steady, not blinking) after I drove to work in a downpour. This time the car had no problem getting from stop to start and at low speed, but could not go over 45 mph. I went to my mechanic again. The computer diagnosis this time was "system too lean". After three dry days when I drove only very short distances, the MIL went off. What is going on? are computerized diagnoses always accurate? why did the MIL seem to be related to wet weather? I bought a Honda Accord because of its reported reliability.
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My 2007 suddenly wants to give no heat when idle...as soon as I begin moving again the heat blows hot, but when stopped at a light or sitting in park the heat only blows cold air...
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My 2007, Honda Accord, 6-speed manual, 6 cylinder EX Coupe vibrates when I accelerate between the speeds of approx. 50-65 mph and then smooths out above that speed. Slightly higher when going uphill.
It only happens when accelerating and not if I'm just cruising without applying the power. My wheels and tires have been checked for balance and are in good shape. No bent rims, tires are in balance.
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Car: 2007 Honda Accord LX 2.4 liter
Recently my car has been making a little too much noise from the water pump. It doesn't happen immediately, it happens after the car has driven for a while. for example, I have an hour commute to work and today the sound was noticeable during the last 5-10 min when I turned the radio down to check. This is similar to other instances in the past week or so. I opened the hood and saw the point that had the sound, checked online and found it was the water pump. Also when I looked under the hood today I noticed my power steering fluid was right at the min level, I will be refilling that of course. What should I do to diagnose this issue?
Additional note: I was told there was some water dripping from my car, but thought little of it since I had been using the A/C that day and the humidity was a bit high.
My current plan of action is to refill the power steering fluid, see if that removes the noise. I will also put a cardboard under the car engine to see if it catches any fluids shortly after I park. Just in case there is a leak somewhere in the system.
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10 months ago I purchased a 2007 Accord with a bad driver's door lock actuator. I replaced it myself 5 months ago, and when I did so, I discovered that it had been previously replaced, at least once. A month ago it went out again. Not sure if its relevant, but this time when it stopped working I had accidentally pulled the door handle at the same time that I pressed the unlock button on the key fob.
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I have a 2007 Honda Accord. A few weeks ago, it started making a whistling noise whenever I was in reverse, however, it would stop when I hit the brakes. Then I notices a very similar noise while driving, again if I break, it stop. Also, if I go over 45mph or so, it stops. Just yesterday I notices a grinding noise/feeling when braking but only when the brake all the way down. What this could be?
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Like a good boy scout, last week I changed the engine air and cabin filters in my 59K-mile 2007 Honda Accord.
Taking out the air filter, I saw the usual insects and dust in the housing and got out the shopvac to suck them out. But the hose was on the wrong port, and I ended up blowing the insects and dust everywhere. Augghhh! Into the intake manifold for sure, I'd bet. I connected the hose right, put it to the air intake, and prayed I was vacuuming all the dust I'd just blown in.
The next day, on the way to college, the car ran perfectly the first three miles. Then, a half mile from campus, the check engine light came on and the car began running badly. RPMs wouldn't increase even if the gas pedal was pressed. The speed couldn't be made to go above about 20 mph. The transmission, ordinarily smooth as silk, now clunked. Fortunately, I was able to reach the college parking lot. I parked the car and went to class, hoping the car would fix itself while I was gone.
Apparently it did. After the three hours I was in classes, the car started up just fine, and it drove home just fine. Except that the check engine light was still on.
At home, I used my OBD2 checker (bought five years ago but never until now even taken out of its packaging; love my Accord), saw a fault of P2101, and erased it. That made the check engine light go out. P2101 has to do with air/fuel, so it must be related to the air filter fiasco of yesterday.
By the way, there's a rattle from the glove compartment (which is lowered to replace the cabin filter). When the compartment door is open, the rattle goes away. Will troubleshoot this later. Am more concerned with being certain the check engine light doesn't come back. I don't want to go into limp mode on the highway, hours from home.
Two days later, I took advantage of a Sunday afternoon to try to blow/clean out the injectors and intake manifold. I put in a bottle of Techron and drove the car 45 miles, mostly on a nearby semi-rural highway. It has a 70 mph speed limit but at times traffic was doing 80. (Texas.) The car ran perfectly, both highway and city.
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I have 2007 Honda accord. All three passenger side windows will not work. The driver side window do work however. The lock out button is not activated. When I press the switches to the passenger windows, it makes a click sound but windows will not open. This just started happening all at the same time without any warning.
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I am suddenly having difficulty starting my car. It will consistently turn over, but sounds as if it's running down the battery - right away, I don't sit for more than a few seconds with the ignition switch engaged. I turn the key to the off position and try again and it will has started up by the 3rd try every time so far. Once it starts, it runs great - no problems what so ever.
I replaced the battery about a month and a half ago so I suspected that perhaps I got a bad battery. I took the car by autozone to have them test the battery and alternator - both tested "good," But I should note that this was actually the second time I took it to autozone this weekend and the battery tested good but low charge the first time (It was fully charged this time and I had just had trouble cranking. I thought I had just killed the battery because I was using a cell phone battery charge and thought it was just drawing too much).
I suspected the starter may be going bad, but I'm not sure because it will turn the engine over every time, it just doesn't start. The girl at autozone suggested it may be the voltage regulator but I thought that that along with issues with the alternator itself would be noticeable if I ran the car with the lights, radio, etc on? I read that it could be the plugs or wires, but I would think in that case the battery wouldn't sound as if it were run down right off the bat.
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All regular maint has been completed timely on my 2007 Honda Accord; however, I hear a honking noise (sounds like a goose) when I accelerate sometimes. I've taken the car in but there are no codes that come up and they don't know what's wrong with it. I thought it was traction system.
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