10 months ago I purchased a 2007 Accord with a bad driver's door lock actuator. I replaced it myself 5 months ago, and when I did so, I discovered that it had been previously replaced, at least once. A month ago it went out again. Not sure if its relevant, but this time when it stopped working I had accidentally pulled the door handle at the same time that I pressed the unlock button on the key fob.
View 3 RepliesI know that the brake actuator on the early LS460s has an issue. How do you know it's actually failed or is failing?
Do the brakes stop working?
I took my 2000 Honda Accord to the mechanic and he told me my transmission is failing. He suggested that I put in a re-built transmission. I trust my mechanic, but considering the car has 207,000 miles on it I am not sure if it is a wise investment. Besides the jerking the car is in good condition and have taken it to the same mechanic for maintenance since I bought it 14 years ago, but I am not sure how long a re-built transmission will last. I only need to get 2-3 more years out of this car until I save up enough money to buy a new car.
View 8 RepliesThe power steering on my car is failing intermittently. There is no secret thing to do to make it fail. It's mostly at low/no speed like when pulling into a parking spot. Thus far, I have had the pump replaced twice, pressure valve switch, and the rack and pinion replaced. My mechanic of 10 years is stumped as to what is happening.
View 14 RepliesYesterday the check engine light came on 03 Accord EX 4-cyl auto, the code is P2647. According to the dealership and O’Reilly print out it can be a number of things. The car starts running rough after 2700 rpms, and then (if you keep pressing accelerator) dies.
So I can drive it now as long as I do not accelerate too much. (That is great for the gas mileage, but does not work on the on-ramps)I did replace engine oil and filter yesterday, but the engine light is still on with the same code. The car has 175K miles.
O’Reilly manual suggests replacing:
•VTEC Oil pressure switch
•VCT Solenoid
•Pressure switch
•Solenoid Valve Assembly
The Honda Dealership said it might be:
•VTC Oil Control in Valve Assembly
•Valve Timing Oil pressure in the switch assembly
I have a 2000 Honda CRV, driver side door lock actuator has failed. Door is shut and will not open. I have pulled back the door panel enough to see the actuator and touch it. How can I get the door open to replace the actuator?
View 5 RepliesA few weeks ago, I received the triangle light in my 2007 Prius with 125k miles on it. When I took it to the dealer, they said that the hybrid battery needed to be replaced. A new battery was ordered & installed by the dealer, which took a couple weeks as the battery wasn't in stock. When I picked up the Prius this week, within driving it a couple miles, it was apparent the A/C wasn't working. I took it right back to the dealer who said they'd look into it. When the Service sales guy started it again, it made a very strange noise as well, which it never did before. The dealer has come back and said that not only has the A/C Compressor out but the ABS actuator is also failing. They are saying this has nothing to do with the battery replacement but both these items were working fine before having the battery replaced
View 1 RepliesHaving issues with door lock actuators going out? I wanted to make sure that the motors (Mabuchi) are still the same for the ES?
View 11 RepliesI just purchased this really nice high milage '07 Sonata and am working on some "minor" issues:
The Driver's Door lock actuator is not working (all others are fine using the interior lock/unlock switch and the key when used in the driver's door lock).
I have researched the issue on this site and want to confirm what appears to be a nasty replacement scenario.
1st, can a new actuator be found for less than $70.00+-?
2nd, are the acuators specific for each door, left and right doors, or all interchangeable? I ask because I might go for a used one.
3rd, is the complete dismantleling of the door and window actually necessary? Seems unbelievable especially for such a common problem. But of course the engineers never expected it to be a "common" failure.
This seems to happen a lot when it gets really cold out. Started happening a few weeks ago. Sometimes if I notice the light starts to flicker on, at a stoplight I'll open the door, push down the rubber button that triggers the light, and shut the door. It'll usually stay off for a little bit.
I noticed that there's a little dent on the door where it presses against the button, and I'm wondering if that's a possible reason why this issue is happening.
I have a 1997 Honda Accord LX....
I have a 2door 1992 Honda Accord EXR. In order to lock the car, you need to close the driver door and use the key to lock - annoying as hell but apparently the only way.
It recently got very cold and I can't seem to lock my driver's side door from the outside with my key. I tried squirting in door lock de-icer but to no avail. The key does not turn on the outside although once inside I can lock it from inside with the door lock switch.
Passenger side locks but it does not lock the driver's door.
2003 Accord EX, about 145K miles. About a year ago, the back passenger side door would not lock. So now I just keep it locked and if I ever need it open, I reach back to unlock it. About 6 months ago, the front passenger side door stopped responding to a lock command. But the funny thing was, when it started to show signs of weakness, I could press lock (on driver side door or remote) about 5 or 6 times and it would eventually make its way down or up. Eventually, it just stopped working altogether. So now I have 2 out of 4 doors that lock and unlock remotely or by the master unlock/lock button on the driver's side. I have found NO other issues with the car that would seem related to this. The AC has stopped blowing cold air but it did this last summer too (and fixed itself) so I think that is unrelated. I am happy, willing, and able to do any minor fixes myself on the car.
View 3 RepliesSince yesterday the power door locks on my '98 Accord LX (Sedan) are not working. I noticed that it happened after I started the car and it died on me. I tried it again but this time with my foot on accelerator and it started fine. I started driving and then noticed the locks weren't operational. They were fine before this episode.
- When I press the power door lock button on driver or passenger side nothing happens (usually it locks all four doors)
- Manaul locking is fine
- When I lock the car with key it doesn't lock all the door (it only locks the door I'm at - driver or passenger). This is supposed to lock all doors too.
I looked at the interior fuse box on Passenger side and the door locks fuse looks ok (#12). I also swapped it with passenger side power window fuse and the window still worked so I guess it's fine. what I can look at next? I read the the actuator might be a problem (I don't know what it is but I'm willing to give it a shot). Looking at Honda Manual looks like there are multiple actuators (one per door I think) and it doesn't feel like everything would conk off together.
One car, which I have used a lot recently, had the check engine light come on yesterday, it was on all day, morning and evening, today it is off. I asked the person who had it last; he said it was not on. He did mention he filled it with premium, and I usually use the cheep stuff. Could this have just been some sort of adjustment to the new gas? Should I be concerned still? Or should I just let it go since the light is now off? I was going to try and go to a mechanic next week, but would prefer not to as I would have to take vacation time to do so. While cheaper, the maintenance and time-off involved is the down side to my companies program. Do I check it out? Or let it go? It's a 2007 Honda Accord Fleet Edition with 30,000 miles.
View 2 RepliesI think the actuator for my driver's rear door is on the fritz. Basically it fails to lock/unlock automatically like the other three do. The other three work fine - to include the passenger rear door.
Again - if I manually push the lock it works as it should (both lock and unlock) - but it will not unlock with the FOB. I removed the door panel and everything looks good - I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the inner (black) panel so I can get to the actuator.
I can hear the actuator trying to unlock it some times - I can hear a vibration coming from the door when it tries. But again - the passenger rear works fine. I think the biggest thing I need to do now is to get behind the inner door module (black trim) to see what is going on - but I can't figure out how.
My 07 Accord V6 won't turn over. Brand new battery showing 12.5 volts, and I checked all the fuses. All other electrical is in working condition. Had the wife turn the key while I tapped on the starter with no luck. Then I measured the voltage coming into the solenoid from the starter while sitting there and 0 volts, then had the wife turn the key and it was showing 10.5 volts.
I took off the kick panel and swapped the ACC relay for the starter cut relay ( they're identical) and still nothing. I'm pretty much down to it being a problem with the ignition switch, but I'm not looking forward to getting into the steering column. What else it could be, or have some tips for what I should do / be looking for if I get into the steering column?
I have a 2007 Honda Accord. A few days ago I backed the car up to the front of the house, and in the reflection of the windows and glass I noticed my brake lights were very dim looking. The brake lights on this model/year are LED brake lights that are Honda genuine brake lights. After I noticed, I put the car in park and tapped the brake lights several times and noticed they got very bright, then very dim. Then bright, and dim again and so on and so forth. They also flickered on and off at one point while my foot was planted firmly on the brake pedal. Is this a popular known issue with these brake lights? What can I do to correct this? Took the car back to the dealership and they said there was nothing wrong. (Of course)
View 19 RepliesThe MIL came on (steady on, not blinking) about a month ago on a very rainy day. The car felt sluggish going from stop to start and at low speed, but then it was OK at higher speed (>40 mph). I checked the fuel cap, which was tightened appropriately. I went to my mechanic. His computer diagnosed the problem to be malfunctioning of the "throttle position sensor". I had the throttle position sensor replaced. About two weeks after the new sensor was put in, the MIL came on again and went off in two days. Two days later it came on again (steady, not blinking) after I drove to work in a downpour. This time the car had no problem getting from stop to start and at low speed, but could not go over 45 mph. I went to my mechanic again. The computer diagnosis this time was "system too lean". After three dry days when I drove only very short distances, the MIL went off. What is going on? are computerized diagnoses always accurate? why did the MIL seem to be related to wet weather? I bought a Honda Accord because of its reported reliability.
View 19 RepliesMy 2007 suddenly wants to give no heat when idle...as soon as I begin moving again the heat blows hot, but when stopped at a light or sitting in park the heat only blows cold air...
View 2 RepliesWe do have a problem with our Honda. We have icons on the IP that flash at certain time. Icons are the "battery", "door ajar" and "parking brake". The icons flash when we take our foot off the accelerator and stop when we re-accelerate. Also, if we turn the headlights on during the flashing, it stops. We have a new battery and alternator. A battery check yesterday showed all functions were normal. What could cause this problem and what to do about it.
View 8 RepliesMy 2007, Honda Accord, 6-speed manual, 6 cylinder EX Coupe vibrates when I accelerate between the speeds of approx. 50-65 mph and then smooths out above that speed. Slightly higher when going uphill.
It only happens when accelerating and not if I'm just cruising without applying the power. My wheels and tires have been checked for balance and are in good shape. No bent rims, tires are in balance.