Honda - Accord :: 2006 V6 Hesitates During Acceleration After 5 - 10 Minutes Of Driving
Jul 27, 2014
I have a 2003 Honda Accord V6 that has some acceleration hesitation and general jerkiness, usually noticeable when the car has been sitting for a long period of time (overnight). The symptoms seem to dissipate after 5 - 10 minutes of driving.
When I begin accelerating, the car feels like it hesitates when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. If I let off the gas a bit, then the car jerks a bit.
I'm sure it's not the transmission, because the dealer said the fluid and everything looks fine. Additionally, I have another Accord (2000) that does have a failing transmission and the symptoms on that one are very different from this 2003.
A couple of months ago, I was getting a CEL and had a friend of mine read the code with his OBD tool. It indicated that Bank 1 Sensor 1 was bad. I replaced it with a Denso. I think the problem got better at that point, but has "worsened" again over the past month or so.
Any clues what this might be? Things I can try? Ways to narrow down the issue?
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I have a '92 accord 5 speed. I began to notice that when I step on the accelerator theirs a slight hesistation. It is very prominent when shifting gearsNo problem when the car is idling.
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My 1989 Honda Accord LX, with 135,000 miles on it, stalls after a few minutes of driving. Then, after re-starting, it stalls before I even have a chance to put it into drive. My mechanic replaced an electric base plate gasket in the carburetor but warned me that this repair might not fix the problem. If it didn't, I probably would need to replace the carburetor -- if one could be found for a 1989 model. Well, I still have the problem. My question: Is it worth it to invest $1,500, more or less, for a carburetor for a 22-year-old car? I've been using it strictly as a second car for the last 11 or 12 years. It seems to be in good shape otherwise.
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Does it every time. It started suddenly out of the blue. Start it up if i leave town i get 3 or 4 miles out if ni stay in town i might get back home from post office if i hustle. Let it sit 10 or 15 minutes and it will start again for 4 or 5 mins. again. I have replaced the distributor the whole unit and replaced the ignition switch, both parts are new.
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My sons car is a 96 accord. For some reason, it's developed a new problem. After 15 minutes of driving it will stall, and it will not restart. It seems to be if it's left to sit long enough, it will restart(it does crank, just not turnover). That period of time it needs to sit seems more then 10-15 minutes, but we are not exactly certain. After several hours, it seems to start and run fine. We had it towed to the mechanic, they where not able to reproduce it. It's not overheating, the temp gauge stays below half. No check engine light is on.
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1999 Accord, 110k mi., stalls while driving or stopped a few times a week, then takes a couple of minutes to turn over. Mechanic replaced or cleaned main relay, fuel pump, and ignition module. Could sell it but recently rebuilt tranny and replaced timing belt. Mechanic is stumped.
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I drove my car through a puddle, and right after that, my check engine light came on and it hesitates to accelerate. What could be the problem?
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In the last 2 weeks my 98 Honda Accord has started to hesitate when you start it up in the morning (or the first time for the day). It only hesitates for 2-3 seconds and catches and starts up fine the rest of the day. I know it's not the battery the battery is less than 2 years old and the battery plugs have been replaced recently as well. There is no check engine light flashing or anything saying there is a problem. What it might be? I can clarify that it isn't making the noise you'd associate with the battery being dead (trust me, I've been in the car with a dead battery and will never forget it!).
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Engine light is on, Auto Zone has given me a code of P1491 it mentioned open or short circuit condition, poor electrical connection, failed EGR valve. There are times when I push on the gas or brake the car hesitates and gives a little jerk.
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I have owned this car for about 6 months now and cannot get to the bottom of this sound/action. I have taken it to multiple shops, including the dealer where I bought it from, a Honda dealership, and two other shops (Firestone Complete Auto Care, and a local shop which is goodyear backed.) Here is the deal:
When I accelerate past 50 mph and up to 75 miles per hour, and also when I cruise at any speed between those numbers, my car has a very distinct vibration in both the seat and steering wheel. It also has a sound that matches the intensity and magnitude of the vibration itself. The sound and vibration intensifies and decreases with changes in speed, the sound changes pitch when turning the wheel from one side to another, and the vibration gets worse as I drive up or down hills. This sound also gets louder if I apply the brakes suddenly, but also decreases with the speed of the car.
Things I have had checked:
Ball bearingsRims (One rim was actually bent (steel rims), and now is replaced.)Alignment (This was actually done at least 4 times since I've had the vehicle)Replaced tires (to rule out tire noise, and also the tires were going bad from what I believe is this problem)
I have had this car test driven to try to get opinions and either the shop denies that they hear anything, or say they do not know what the sound could be. It sounds like it is coming from the front right. I have been told by the dealership from where this car came that the sound is "road noise" and should be ignored. I disagree, because if it is "road noise" then it should go away when driving on different surfaces. When I have had my alignment checked, Firestone found that my camber on my front right and left rear were off to the right, but were still within specifications. They also said there was nothing they could do, and suggested if I wanted it fixed, I should take it to a body shop.
Included are a scan of the alignment results from Firestone, and a sound clip of the sound that is captured on my phone. Also, the sound can be heard throughout the recording, but is especially clear at around the 42 second mark.
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My air conditioner works for about 20 minutes then blows hot. If I'm on the highway it works great but stop and go traffic does it in fast. One guy told me I needed a compressor while another said it was a busted shrader valve. At this point we're not sure who to believe...
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My civic hesitates/jerks while driving. I've taken it to several mechanics, the local Honda dealer, and the best retired Honda mechanic around; no one can tell me whats wrong although I do have to say no one has really checked it out very thoroughly. The check engine light does not come one, it seems to run worse when the humidity is up, and it runs great in cold weather. I've run gas cleaner through it, had an 02 sensor put on, put non-ethanol gas in it. No difference in how it runs. Sometimes it runs really well in the first 5 minutes of starting. It idles fine . .
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I have a 2001 Honda Accord V6. The check engine light is on and occasionally the TCS light comes on for a few mins. then goes off. I've been to Autozone and used the diagnostic meter, it indicates a clogged or malfunctioning EGR Valve. I replaced the EGR Valve and reset the Check Engine light. The check engine light came back on. Is there some kind on engine cleaner I can use to clean out the the EGR Valve port?
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2003 Accord with 161K+ miles on it.notice several months back that the oil light would blink about 1 to 5 minutes into driving. I would turn the engine off, sit for 10 or 15 seconds, and start it back up and never see the light again the entire day.
this would happen once a week or so until I would get the oil changed, then I wouldn't see it again for 2000 or 3000 more miles.
Had Honda check it out, they found nothing wrong.
Lately, it happens more often, always first thing when driving, 1 to 5 minutes from starting.
Today I noticed something that makes me think it is a bad sensor; I have to make a U-turn today and I took it quite fast. As I was in mid turn I noticed the oil light KIND of flashing/blinking/trying to come on... like a light does if you hold the switch around the middle, flickered dimly. After I completed the U-turn the light did not stay on.
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My daughter's 02 Honda Accord is making a sound like a phone on vibrate every few minutes as it sits parked in our driveway. Not sure if this is pertinent but the driveway is sloped so the rear is higher than the front. I've search everywhere to try to locate the sound (thinking it was a cell phone left in the car) but it seems to be coming from under the middle to rear of the car. Could it be the gas tank pump going spastic?
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My 2006 650i loses power under moderate to heavy acceleration. If I accelerate from anywhere over 2500rpm, it will accelerate then the engine rpm will drop suddenly by 500-1500rpm, and then will continue to accelerate again from this lower rpm. It only seems to happen once each time I punch the pedal. The car does not throw any codes. I have had the dealer and Dinan Performance examine the problem and they have not been able to isolate the problem. They have run vacuum leakage tests, fuel pressure tests, and may have checked the throttle position sensor. This really takes the fun out of driving this car. I have about 50K miles on it.
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Incosistently when accelerating the car jerks (like when wheels spin out in rain). Car works just fine in Idle and has been working great, except for the occassional jerking. I would like to know what I should check and if its dangerous to drive, depending on what the problem might be.
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord V6 that has some acceleration hesitation and general jerkiness, usually noticeable when the car has been sitting for a long period of time (overnight). The symptoms seem to dissipate after 5 - 10 minutes of driving.
When I begin accelerating, the car feels like it hesitates when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. If I let off the gas a bit, then the car jerks a bit.
I'm sure it's not the transmission, because the dealer said the fluid and everything looks fine. Additionally, I have another Accord (2000) that does have a failing transmission and the symptoms on that one are very different from this 2003.
A couple of months ago, I was getting a CEL and had a friend of mine read the code with his OBD tool. It indicated that Bank 1 Sensor 1 was bad. I replaced it with a Denso. I think the problem got better at that point, but has "worsened" again over the past month or so.
Any clues what this might be? Things I can try? Ways to narrow down the issue?
View 6 Replies
I have a 1999 Honda Accord (4 Cylinder, 180,000 miles). After a recent blizzard here in Wisconsin I am hearing a "whirring" sound coming from the front end of my car. I begin to hear it at about 10mph and it gets progressively louder and begins to sound like a jet at cruising altitude. The car overall sounds louder on the road. I checked for the possibility of snow/ice packed around the wheels or underneath the car but don't see any. A wheel bearing possibly?
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I test-drove a 1994 Honda Accord with 140K today. Looking for reliable car for relative, and this was one of the better options, on paper at least, in the price range.It drove like a used car, but I was concerned about one thing: A ping when accelerating from low speed. It didn't do it constantly, but only when going from a standstill or slowdown back up to speed. The seller said he'd been told it was an issue with the catalytic converter. I've been told that a higher octane fuel will sometimes quell a ping in an engine with no knock sensor.Is this something I should be worried about? Is the high-octane rumor true? The car was otherwise very nicely maintained.
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Mechanic could not find any codes on my 98 Honda Accord... The car was intermittently hesitating upon acceleration... There were no leaks or no burning odor. He recommended replacing the transmission and failed to adhere to code 3361.1... The car performed the same way after the transmission was replaced and he "could not duplicate" the problem and therefore could not fix it... He did state the clutch were burnt on the car. After failing a smog check I brought the car to a different mechanic who changed the oxygen sensor and the car has been running fine.
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