My son-in-law has a 2006 Honda Accord with over 160,000 miles on it. About 8 months ago, the check engine light came on. The code said the down stream oxygen sensor was bad. He took it to a Honda dealer and they replaced the sensor and now the check engine light is back on with the same code. Can the catalytic converter have gone bad and can it have made the oxygen sensor go bad too?
View 5 RepliesI changed both oxygen sensors yesterday on my 1997 Accord.
Check Engine Light was on and I was getting codes:
P0135 - O2 Sensor Heater Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0141 - O2 Sensor Heater Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
Also, after clearing the codes, if I started the vehicle the codes would come on instantly. So it wasn't some kind of flaky electrical issue, it was consistent.
I recently went to my mechanic after living with a very small leak right between the catalytic converters and the transmission for about 4 months. (it dropped a dime-sized mark about once every 5 days.) he said it was the rear output seal on the transmission but wouldnt touch it since there was no easy way to get to it and didn't want to drop the whole exhaust system. so off to vw dealership (wow, i guess a lot of people complained because they replaced everyone there and they're more friendly and efficient. my car usually sat there for 3 weeks before they even looked at it. (appointment mean nothing to those people.) but after dropping off my car i got a call within an hour telling me it was a cracked ventilation hose. they ordered the part and repaired it within a week (another first.) i also had them change the trans fluid and filter and the car ran smoother and a lot better and i checked for 2 weeks for leaks and none were there but within the past week, it's back and leaking the same way. the puddle is about the size of a penny so back to vw on monday.
View 1 Replies'05 GLX, 55k miles. Got an MIL light last week and it showed a P0421 code. Took it to the dealer and they replaced the right bank catalytic converter. That was last Friday. Fast forward to Weds. of this week. MIL comes back on and mileage drops noticeably, but power doesn't seem affected. Back to dealer, they end up replacing the other cat. Does this seem normal? I'm trying to figure out what may have led to this. Car is basically stock. I do my own oil changes (never overfill) and swapped out the spark plugs at 45k miles with Bosch Iridiums. [IMG] [URL] .....
View 4 RepliesThe catalytic converters are very hot and the one upper left, when looking into the engine, is even red. The engine runs less than 10 minutes a the converters become very hot. I think when the engine run another 30 minutes, then I have a firework.
And that's not all. If the engine is idling, it's everything o. k. But if accelerates over 2.500 RPM, then it smokes as a locomotive. The smoke is white, dense and it smells like unburned fuel.
So I ask, are the converters blocked and I need to change them, or is the engine before death?
The vehicle is a 2001.5 Passat 4 Motion V6. 120,000 miles on the Passat.
The original Cats were replaced 1 month ago after a service station deemed them dead. When the vehicle failed emissions.
The codes were p0430 and P0420 and P411.
Before that about a year ago The O2 sensors were replaced.
After 2 new catalytic converters were installed. The vehicle is still throwing p0420 and p0430 codes.
I have some rust building on the heat shield of my cats on my 2001 Nissan Frontier.. I had a weld done to keep it from rattling after replacing the OEM muffler. It there anything I can put on it to retard the rusting process on the shield and will that affect my emissions?
View 4 RepliesGetting multiple CEL's for the catalytic converters and cylinder misfires. Looking for threads that address these particular codes ie. 0431, 0421, 0300. 0303, 0306. I have a feeling that these are being caused from a vacuum leak and/or needing a reflash for the ECU.
View 3 RepliesMy Equinox had problems from when I bought it used at 23K miles. The evap hose recall was installed wrong and broke. The traction control went out and shut down my car in mid-drive (twice). Computer modules went bad. Timing chain had to be replaced. Then is was using 3 or more quarts of oil before reaching 3000 miles after an oil change, with no puddles on the ground. I received a letter from GM after it reached 120k miles, but the dealership was good enough to replace the whole engine anyway due to "problems" with this year and model. The catalytic coverters were bad at the time but not replaced though the "disappearing oil" from the bad engine seems to have caused that. What can I do to get this resolved without having to spend $1500-$2000 of my own money, that I don't have right now? (oh, one wheel hub assembly has just gone bad too)
View 5 RepliesMy wife and I have a 1997 Honda Accord, roughly 260k miles. A few months back the Check Engine light came on, diagnostic came back with P0420, typically indicating the catalytic converter is shot. Who am I to argue, it was an factory part. So we replaced that with an inexpensive Magnaflow converter. (don't have the part number on me); this was 5 days ago. Today my wife takes the car in for inspection. Check Engine is still on with the same code. The guy at the testing station begins laughing at my wife when she says we only spent about 200 in parts and labour on the new converter. I'm inclined to think that since we already replaced the converter that I should be looking somewhere else (O2 sensor maybe). But I also don't want to just start throwing parts at it. Do I have a case here? I would really prefer not to spend $1000 on a car that old with that many miles on it just to pass inspection.
View 4 RepliesMy wife drives a 2005 Honda accord and the catalytic converter heat shield recently fell off. I am wondering if it is safe to continue driving the car without the heat shield? I have read that the main function of the heat shield is to prevent fires when parking in long grass. Does it also protect the bottom of the car from starting on fire?
View 1 RepliesThe Honda dealership read the check engine light code on my Honda 2002 Accord, that said the catalytic convertor is not operating within the efficiency range(plus the converter has a rattle in it...it is not the heat shield as it was taken off years ago). They said it was too expensive to have fixed at the dealership and to find an independent repair shop to replace the converter.
They warned me to not get the cheap universal converter as the check engine light for the converter would come back on and stay on. They said get a more expensive one but would not give any specific brand or price range and said it SHOULD keep the check engine light from coming about the converter.
I have an independent shop and they agreed about never using an universal converter. However when I press them about the $270 converter they would put on would keep the check engine light for the converter from coming on, they hesitated in assuring me it would not come on.
Honda Accord converter can be replaced with an after market converter, what did it cost, and did it keep the check engine light for the converter from coming on?
I have recently picked up a 2005 F350 with the 5.4, which has 212k on it. Has a check engine light on for P0420 and P0430, as well as some kind of a 'ignition coil 'D'', I forgot which code it was as I deleted them at first to see which would come back. After driving it, the P0420 and the P0430 came back, but not the other, yet probably. I'm guessing the misfire due to the ignition coil caused the cats to go bad and the 420/430 codes, unless these codes are coincidental and the cats went due to high mileage.
Either way, I'm pretty sure I will need to replace the cats and was wondering what is the cheapest route. Should I get individual cats and have a shop weld them on? Should I go to Advance Auto parts or Auto Zone and get the whole pipe with the cats attached to them already and then get them installed? I anything will involve welding, I would have to bring it in to a shop. Also, in regards to the ignition coil misfire, what a good way to check which one it is?
I bought this truck (2011 F-350 6.2l) used a month ago with 125000 miles on it. Of course the MIL light came on as soon as the ink dried. The codes read PO420 & PO430 and my local Ford Service said replace the cats. I said what is the cause of the failure, ford said here is a list of possible causes but it's not reading other codes so they don't know what caused the failure.
Well, I went ahead and replaced both catalytic converters, all four O2 sensors, and I replaced all sixteen spark plugs. Guess what, the MIL light is back on not 24 hours later reading PO420, PO430, and now PO620 and PO645. So I just went back to Ford today and all they did was cleared the codes and told me to call if the light comes back on. They said my PCM is up to date but why it's now reading GENCOM code or AC Clutch code.
I have an 09 Accord (LX), one day the airbag light (SRS indicator) on the dash would stay on when driving, and the Seatbelt Reminder Indicator would detect the driver's seatbelt isn't engaged, even when it is.
A day later, the seatbelt indicator resumed normal operation, but the SRS light still remained on. I took it to two separate dealers and neither of them could connect to the SRS Control Unit to pull error codes from the onboard computer. They say I need to replace the SRS Control Unit to even begin troubleshooting this problem.
Can I replace my own SRS unit without accidentally triggering my airbags? Where do I order it? How do I make sure it is the correct part? Is it easy? Or I have a separate problem?
Looking for a diagram of the locations of the oxygen sensors on this vehicle, I am getting miss information from all around saying it has anywhere from 2-4 oxygen sensors and i think it has 3 am i right? two in the front behind the radiator on the exhaust manifold, and 1 somewhere by the catyaltic converter. There isn't a whole lot of manuals out there for these cars.4.0 ltr engine...
View 4 RepliesMy truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
View 3 RepliesI've been looking online to see how often you need to replace the oxygen sensor for the 3rd gen Prius. I can't find anything online. How often you replace these? Would it be around 100,000 miles or more because it's a hybrid? Also how many are there? I've heard there is 2 and some say there's 4.
View 2 RepliesI drive a 2001 Toyota Camry with about 110,000 miles. About a year ago the check engine light came on and indicated a problem with the rear O2 sensor (the exact OBD code escapes me right now). Had the sensor replaced and a month later the same one failed. Replaced it again and 2 weeks later it failed again. I am now on the fourth rear O2 sensor and the check engine light is on again with the same code. So, clearly the problem isn't the actual sensor. I have heard it might be the ECU, but what else could be causing this type of problem?
View 4 RepliesMy 2004 Honda Accord wouldn't start this morning. Immobilization indicator was blinking. After a bit, it started just fine, as the indicator stopped blinking. My thinking at this time was that it had rained torrentially the previous night, maybe some moisture had got into the circuitry and caused a little 'hiccup.' Then, as I drove, about 5 minutes later, the car started trying to stall. The check engine light came on, then the battery light came on and flashed. The engine ran erratically. Both check engine and battery lights started blinking erratically. At one point the dash beeped at me, like the warning sound it makes when the emergency brake is on while the car is moving. This got worse as I drove. I pulled over to the nearest shop. 2 hours of looking at the car, they said the camshaft sensor and the alternator needed to be replaced. .
View 9 RepliesI needed to replace the same (rear) catalytic converter of my 2006 Honda Pilot LX (2WD) in less than 16 months. The first time it happened in October 2014 when the vehicle had 160K miles (Car's service code was P0420), and the second time it happened this month (same code P0420), when the vehicle had 184K miles. I have it replaced at Honda Service both times.
When it happened for a second time so quick (160k miles wth first converter vs 24K miles with the second converter), I asked Honda Service for a free warranty replacement, but they said it only has 12K miles, and 12 month warranty on repairs, they called Honda corporate to see if they would do anything extra (they did not), but Lute Riley gave a discount to do it at their part & labor cost only ($800 first time vs $550 second time).
What could be the cause of the second catalytic converter to go bad so quick? I have been the owner and only driver of the vehicle since i purchased it new and my driving habits have not changed.