Honda - Accord :: 2006 - CEL Code For Battery Pack Deterioration Came Up
Jul 8, 2014
My husband and I just bought a 2006 Accord Hybrid with 123,000 miles on it. The IMA and check engine lights came on two days later. I had the diagnostic check done on it and the code for battery pack deterioration came up. I read online where this code could be caused by the 12-volt battery going bad, and as it had the original battery in it, and the check on that showed it needed to be replaced, we did that. Two days later, the lights were on again. So we know we're going to have to replace the battery pack, which we're okay with, but what we want to know is whether the car will still run once that battery is completely shot. So far, it's still showing a good charge on it - whether that means anything, I don't know. Also, if it will run without the IMA component, will we be doing any damage to the car if we let it go for a few weeks?
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Had to replace battery, normally would push the sound button till it beeps---then hit #4 preset button to set hour,etc. Well, my sound button does not beep and my clock display just keeps flashing. This problem is on a 2006 Honda accord V6.
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Back in November/December I discharge/charge-cycled each module in my battery pack 3+ times after replacing 3 bad modules. I didn't get to reassemble everything and drive the car until the holidays. On short trips around town, everything seemed okay, but on longer trips (limited data here, but say 40-45 miles) I got the red triangle and some other lights (see photo). I read the code as P3024 which from what I find means Battery Block 14 Becomes Weak. I can clear the code and the car is happy until the next trip...
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About 1500 miles ago, I replaced a cell in the battery pack. Now the triangle of dead is back and the code is "replace battery pack" again.
I tested all the cells and here are the results.
(the previous one I replaced was 4.5 volts, very low and easy to find)
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I had my car battery replaced about three months ago and when it was replaced they put those little anti-corrosion felt pads at the base of the terminals as well as anti-corrosion grease. My positive terminal would never maintain a secure connection so I removed the felt pad and replaced the terminal connection. Now my only problem is whenever it is very cold outside and I try to start the car, I lose power instantly as soon as the starter is about to engage. I always have to twist the positive terminal back and forth a couple times, listening to the crunching sound of the anti-corrosion grease, and power is restored.
Is there any brand of grease I can use that won't cause this issue? Yes, I have removed the terminal, cleaned out the old grease and replaced with another pouch of the cheap stuff at the autozone counter and that didn't work. There is no corrosion buildup on the terminals but I've consistently had the problem for the past few months.
I know Honda had a recall on ignition switched a while ago, and they replaced mine, but I'm not sure if there is any direct connection since my daily fix involves me manipulating the battery terminal to get the car started. 2003 Accord EX ...
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2001 Honda Accord EX 2.3L 4cyl. check engine light is flashing off and on with a PO1399 code
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So I recently changed the air filter in my car. Its hard to get to and replace. Its in a tough spot and I am not sure if I secured the cover fully and completely. I am pretty sure I did. Anyway, a week later I had my check engine light come on, it stayed on for a couple hours then went off. It hasn't come back on since. However, I went to the Autozone, anyway, and had them read the code. They said it was P0171, system too lean bank 1. Is this a serious issue? What are some common ways to fix it, if it is? The car is a 2005, Honda Accord EX. 4 cyclinders. PZEV version. It has 142,000 miles on it.
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92 Honda accord. This car has two radiator fans. The passenger side fan comes on intermittently after the car has been shut off, causing the cars battery to drain. If the battery isn't disconnected then the car has to be jumped every time due to the fan running. Cars temp doesn't get hot, checked coolant, everything seems to be working fine.
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I have a 2005 Accord 4 cylinder that has the engine light on. I have had it serviced and the code was P1009. First mechanic added oil and reset the light. It came back on, so the problem wasn't low oil. He then replaced the variable timing solenoid and changed the oil and filter. After a week or so, the light came on with same code. I then took it to a foreign car specialist well-skilled in Honda engines. He did a lot of research and confirmed the first mechanic did everything correctly, but he also changed the small screen in the oil passage (related to the VTC solenoid somehow). Light came back on today. The car only has 44,000 miles and was well-maintained, oil checked and replaced regularly, no sludge or buildup. I will return to the mechanic that did the last repair, but they all seem stumped by the return of the P1009 code. How to resolve it?
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Engine light is on, Auto Zone has given me a code of P1491 it mentioned open or short circuit condition, poor electrical connection, failed EGR valve. There are times when I push on the gas or brake the car hesitates and gives a little jerk.
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The check engine light came on in my 1997 Honda Accord and the OEM diagnostic says it's PO501 which is a performance problem in CVT speed sensor circuit. My mechanic is on vacation. Is it safe to drive short distances until I can have it fixed?
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My 3.0 L Honda Accord won't start the way it should. I've included a video of the situation. I need to figure out what I need to replace. [URL] ....
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2001 Honda Accord 4 cylinder... At 256K miles I had the battery and open doors, open trunk lights illuminate intermittently. Initially the lights came on for 1/2 mile. 150 miles later it was more like 20 miles on, off for a mile, on for 40 miles, off for 25 miles, on for 10 miles, and then off. A Honda dealer ( after the first 20 miles of battery light being on and 70 miles from home) replaced the battery and the lights came back on a mile down the road. I managed to get home. With engine running running battery voltage was 14.4 volts. The light stayed off for 30 miles the next day. AutoZone found no diagnostic codes. A mechanic told me that the battery light could be intermittent with a failing alternator. I changed the alternator (cracked case). The voltmeter again showed 14.4 volts with engine running. Will the car return to reliability?
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord with 207,000 miles on it. It's been doing the following:
- From Reverse to Drive, there’s a 2 - 3 second pause before it engages
- Sometimes when driving at higher speeds (55 - 70mph) then slowing down for a light or an exit, the car will sort of lurch/jerk around 30mph on the slow down. It’s very noticeable.
- Check Engine light has been coming on off for months. I thought it was a gas cap issue but the mechanic said it’s a P0506 code.
- Hard shifting in my day-to-day driving- Just fyi, we had the transmission rebuilt a year and a half ago.
We’ve taken it to the transmission shop twice and they said they don’t feel the things we describe and are getting no codes. We’ve taken it to the Honda dealer twice and the honda mechanic did a software update that didn’t fix the issue. I took it back and then he said he felt the hard shift/delay from R to D and that it is a transmission issue because the engine wouldn’t be engaged at all from R to D. The CE light wasn’t on for that visit and wasn't giving a code but then the CE light came back on when I was on my way back to the transmission shop. I read that there are specific things to do to try to clear the P0506 code (clean the throttle body, check for vacuum leaks, etc.) but our Honda dealer didn’t do any of those things.
Is there an engine issue related to the P0506 code that could make my car do these things but feel like a transmission issue even if it’s not (since I’m not getting any transmission codes)? Could I have two separate issues - whatever is triggering the P0506 code and then whatever is making the car shift hard, slow to engage, and jerk when slowing down? My transmission guy told me since they’re not feeling anything or getting any codes, the only thing left for them to do is take out the transmission. I’m at a loss and feel like I’m wasting their time, but there’s definitely something wrong.
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P0420 Catalyst System below efficiency -- bank 1
I've had this code for a couple months trying to trouble shoot it. My gas mileage has been affected, as I'm getting about 23/24 MPG city/highway. I replaced the upstream 02 sensor with am aftermarket Bosch variety( I'm not sure why a non-OEM one would make a difference, as long it's working correctly).
My car has 253k miles, the cat doesn't rattle and I don't smell any rotten eggs or anything, but it has to be clogged or the 02 sensor I got was defective. My engine runs fine and I don't have any problems accelerating or decelerating. It may still be the 02 sensor since the gas mileage decrease is so significant, or it could be my converter is really clogged up.
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Once this happens, simply turning the ignition off and then on again seems solves the problem. We've taken the car to two mechanics, one who said the belt was slipping and one who said the belt was fine!
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We do have a problem with our Honda. We have icons on the IP that flash at certain time. Icons are the "battery", "door ajar" and "parking brake". The icons flash when we take our foot off the accelerator and stop when we re-accelerate. Also, if we turn the headlights on during the flashing, it stops. We have a new battery and alternator. A battery check yesterday showed all functions were normal. What could cause this problem and what to do about it.
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Yesterday the check engine light came on 03 Accord EX 4-cyl auto, the code is P2647. According to the dealership and O’Reilly print out it can be a number of things. The car starts running rough after 2700 rpms, and then (if you keep pressing accelerator) dies.
So I can drive it now as long as I do not accelerate too much. (That is great for the gas mileage, but does not work on the on-ramps)I did replace engine oil and filter yesterday, but the engine light is still on with the same code. The car has 175K miles.
O’Reilly manual suggests replacing:
•VTEC Oil pressure switch
•VCT Solenoid
•Pressure switch
•Solenoid Valve Assembly
The Honda Dealership said it might be:
•VTC Oil Control in Valve Assembly
•Valve Timing Oil pressure in the switch assembly
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08 Accord. After replacing the starter and cleaning the throttle body I keep having a CEL and the P0507 code.
Checked for leaks around intake, vacuum lines, etc. found none.
Tried the relearn procedure and still no luck. Car idea higher than normal ( just over 1000 rpms warm). Also feels like it wants to pull even when stopped.
So I figure I have either:-damaged the throttle body somehow cleaning it- Have incorrectly implemented the re learn procedure- missed a vacuum leak ( possible but doubtful)- or something else I don't know about
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I posted earlier getting failure codes that might indicate something wrong with the battery pack. The codes were P3000, subcode 123, v0100 subcode 211/330. My independent mechanic said that I needed both the battery pack and the battery ECU replaced, based on these codes and the fact that they tested the hybrid pack under load.
At the same time, my auxiliary battery was low. You folks suggested replacing that first.
So I did. I have so far driven over 140 miles without the engine check light and triangle of death coming on again. But I do notice that the SOC screen shows my battery going into the green far more often and far more readily than I remember it doing so in the past. All it takes is a little downhill (say quarter to half a mile) and it will go into green--sometimes 100%.
I'm guess what I'm looking for is some sort of objective data that says my mechanics are right and not shining me on.
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I own an '01 Honda Accord LX with the ULEV engine and 178k on it. My CEL light came on about 6 months ago. Ran the scanner and it showed a P1457 (EVAP Leak). Waited until now when my inspection was due and expected it to be caused by the EVAP shut valve as I read that's often the cause of the problem with this code. Mechanic said that it can't pass inspection because of the OBD fail but that the diagnostic scanner showed everything functioning properly, including my assumption about the faulty shut valve.
He reset the code and said to drive it the 50 miles for the system to ready itself and bring it back in. As I've reset the code several times over the 6 months to see if it would self correct, I'm pretty confident it will come back on. My questions are, is it possible I've done damage to the onboard computer by not addressing the underlying problem 6 months ago? Are there emissions problems that are not checked by the diagnostic tool that the mechanic should be looking for?
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