Honda - Accord :: 2005 EX V6 Hard Starting / Cranks A Bit Too Long
Aug 20, 2013
My 2005 Honda Accord EX V6 with 118,000 miles cranks a bit too long. The issue was due to corroded battery terminals. I cleaned the positive terminal of its snow but it seemed to be the same. Yesterday I also cleaned the negative side. It starts better, but I had hoped that after a day of driving, it would have returned to normal. How long should I drive it before I pull the battery and get it tested? There seems to be plenty of cranking going on. It just hesitates and eventually starts. I drove about 40 minutes to work this morning and the same coming home, all on the highway. If I restart shortly after shutting down, it starts just as quickly as it used to.
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Last summer and this summer I have had a hard time starting my car when it is hot and humid out. In the winter or on cooler days it starts right up, but on hot and humid days I have to crank on it for a while before it will fire up. Sometimes it will start up right away on these days but die immediately, then I am stuck sweating my butt off in a hot car while I crank on it to start.
What this might be? The Honda dealer was of no support, they tried to sell me a new starter and battery (it is turning so I know they are not the culprits.) When I finally got someone at the dealer to listen to me, he suggested a fuel relay, a sensor,r something else I can't recall. But in the end he said they would just be changing out all of these until one works, at my expense.
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I have a 2005 Honda Accord 4 Dr. When I accelerate starting at 60 mph to about 70 mph, it seems as though my tire is vibrating yet after 70 mph everything seems to be ok. I feel like it's coming from the back, but can't really tell. I've replaced my tires, balanced them, rotated them, balanced them again, even had my front axle replaced because the mechanic thought the axle was the problem. Yet my issue still persists.
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I have a 2002 v8 lse with 92000. When i go to start it after it has been sitting for 20 minutes or more it cranks for a long tome before starting. When it does start it idles fine but has a strong fuel smell. There are no codes and no problems once it starts. However it starts up right away in cold weather. It seems like a flooding issue. The fuel pressure is within range but it does seem to bleed off quicker than most cars i work on when the engine is no longer running..
Unfortunately I don't have the specs on on fuel pressure runoff. I suspect the fuel pressure sensor/regulator. I don't believe it would be an injector due to the fact it never runs rough or misses once started and if it was the pump it wouldn't give off a fuel smell in the exhaust once started.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla (It has a 1ZZFE engine). The car for a long time was a little problem when starting (long cranks and several tries before starting, but no check engine light at all), then, after adjusting the PVC hose for 3 days the car worked perfectly, but one week ago, in the morning when trying starting, it was impossible. I scanned and got a U0100 code, tested crankshaft position sensor and it is ok, tried with the other key but same result, only cranks, no start at all. After scanning, it started briefly and suddenly went off, tried again, and only cranks.
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I have a 2004 auto honda accord 4cyl. When I turn the key to turnon my car it takes a couple of seconds longer than it use to, to turn on. Sometimes it doesn't start at all,until I stop and pump the gas brake. This seems to do the trick, the two or three times this happened. My guess is that the gas isn't getting through as it should.
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I have a 1992 accord Lx +200k. The problem I have is the car wont start. It will crank but wont turn over. I thought it might have been the fuel pump relay so I replaced it. It worked for awhile but now the problem has persist.
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93 honda accord cranks but wont start... I replaced the coil,cap and rotor and i still have spark...
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Cranks, but won't start. I spark tested 2 of the 6 cylinders and saw only 2 sparks and no more each time I attempted cranking. They were strong, good looking sparks. I spark tested with an Autocraft Ignition Tester, Part No. AC657, from Advance Auto.
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1999 Accord Coupe. Stuck in park, starter motor turns engine over fine but ignition does not fire. Problem was intermittent twice last week.
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My 93 honda accord cranks but wont start it has fuel and fire from the coil but not to the plugs, had new distbuter 1 year ago could my computer be bad...
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I've got a 2005 Camry 2.4L. Car won't start but it cranks. Got some codes being thrown:
P0010 (camshaft position 'A' Acuator circuit bank 1),
P0748 (Pressure control solenoid 'A' electrical),
P0778 (Pressure control solenoid 'B' electrical),
P2716 (Pressure control solenoid 'D' electrical).
Checked the ignition coils and all 4 are firing and sparking, sprayed some starter fluid in the throttle body and it didn't start. I'm also not hearing the fuel pump prime.
Additionally, I've tested the OCV by pulling it out and connecting it to 12v and its clicking like expected (cleaned it and put it back in - still won't start). I've also had the battery tested and it's fine. I pulled the camshaft sensor and cleaned it and tested it, and it tested fine as well.
When I tested the Crankshaft position sensor I got the ohm reading to be very high, higher than normal operation. Could this be allowing spark but also malfunctioning enough to not allow the fuel pump to prime and turn on fully?
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I recently purchased a 2006 Avalon XLS, 120,000 miles. About 25% of the time, it will crank for several seconds without starting. Turn off the key momentarily and try again, it fires right up every time. This tends to happen when setting for an hour or more, but can also happen after just a few minutes. My first thought is fuel pressure, but can't find a good spot to attach a pressure gauge.
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My 2000 honda accord v6 wont start (150,000 miles). It feels like its cranking over just wont go anywhere from there. So it doesn't seem like an starter issue or battery issue. It has done this to me in the past a couple of times but after letting it sit there for a bit it started back up. The weather hasn't been an issue on the times it wanted to start or not start. I know a oil change is due and
The EGR valve needs to be cleaned/replaced but could those things make my car from not starting? When i put the key in the car and turn it to the II, the Maintenance required light comes on and the light for the key just keeps blinking.
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I have a 1996 honda accord. I recently took it into a shop because it wouldn't start and was leaking oil. They replaced the battery cable and told me I needed an axle. I then have an oil leak, and my car will still not start. I take it back, ok, they said I need an oil pan. I get the oil pan and had to take the car back 2 more times because it was still leaking oil.
The one time they put on a gasket and the next an oil drain plug. Two days later I get home and my oil light is on. There is oil all over my driveway and it is leaking everywhere. Bigger than any previous leak. They pay to have my car towed to the shop and call me the next day to say the seal fell out and this is a common problem with the 96 accords. I need a timing belt kit. They told me there was no way to notice this oil leaking from this component. Is this an accurate depiction, or am I getting the run around?
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I have a 2001 Honda Accord (LX SEDAN 4 DOOR, 4 CYL). Am a bit paranoid after reading online about all the transmission problems people have with this car. The other day when I was starting up from the stop light it had a moment where I was stepping on the gas and it felt like I was in neutral-- not going anywhere. This is the only time it happened and it was only for a few seconds.
Wondering if you think this is the sign of an impending transmission failure or whether it just needs some kind of maintenance?
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Car does not have to get wet, just be in humid air. Problem going on 2 years now, mechanics tried disconnecting a (?) ground/sensor from computer, major tune up, new fuel pump. Until recently, it just took keeping it in crank position for a long time for it to finally start. Recently, in crank position for 30 seconds does nothing and has me worried I'm doing damage. In dry weather, it starts first time every time.
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I have Honda Accord 2003 with 114000 miles on it. All of a sudden it started acting goofy while starting. It didn't start for first few attempts, there was little crank in first 2 attempts. After 3 attempts, I waited for 1 minute and started and it started immediately,just like a new car. This behavior only happens if it gets cold (Florida weather cold) or I let the car sit for 3 days. I left my car at the dealership 3 or 4 times. They couldn't replicate the issue.
I changed the sparked plugs and got my fuel injectors cleaned and also replaced a gas pressure pump. I even got it towed and once car got at the store it started on first attempt. I asked them to change the air filter. Since then its working fine but during start up when I turn the key to start, it feels like car struggles to start but it always start on first attempts. Dash lights, Radio, Wiper and everything works fine on ignition.
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My Focus has 102,000 miles. It has thrown a p0171 code and I have been attempting to fix it. So far this is what I have done:Changed MAF, air filter, PCV Valve, plugs, Valve cover gaskets, Bank 1 O2 sensor and fuel filter. All new. I have cleaned the throttle body, fuel rail intake manifold. Cannot hear vacuum leaks and tested for leaks with carb cleaner.
Symptoms: engine cranks but has a hard time starting, usually on second try. When tank is about half full I get Rough acceleration, higher RPMs (doesn't change gear) and engine stalls on hard left turns. Idle gets rough at times but usually stabilizes at around 700 rpms.
At the beginning, #1 spark plug chamber had a lot of oil in it. It's been a few months and no oil after Valve cover gasket and PCV change. Tested coils and the plugs get a spark. Before I start messing with the fuel pump, am I missing something else that I can do?
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Truck stalls out and cranks hard for 7-10 seconds before starting if I don't let it warm up adequately before I start driving. Transmission is hesitant to shift. Also, white smoke comes out exhaust if it's cold and I get in the throttle too much or if I hit 70+mph.
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My 2011 f-350 6.2l cold starts hard, it cranks through 2 cycles sometimes before it fires, then it might stall. Sometimes it stalls if I put it into drive or reverse before its warmed up. It has also misfired on one or several cylinders during startup. It has also misfired while driving. It has never stalled when driving. I have replaced the canister purge valve, I have done a full tune up with all factory plugs. All with no change to how it starts. My next step is a Pcv valve, I have one coming from ford today.
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