I drive a 96 honda accord and my dad just got a 2003 VW golf and when i drive it it feels weird. When i hit the gas on my accord its solid and hard but when i hit the gas on the VW golf it feels loose i can hit the bottom of the car in the gas and it wont make any reaction.
View 7 RepliesMy car suddenly looses power without any warning. I have taken it to the Honda dealer on a few occasions. There was a recall on the ignition chamber a few years back it happened again a few times after. Took it back they replaced the ignition chamber again about 8 months ago or so, and just today died again. They have done diagnostic on the car and cant find anything wrong. Its so scary because all of a sudden just shuts down. The radio stays on, the door lights show that they are open the steering wheel locks so I cant even pull over to the side of the road. Just stops dead. It seems that most of times that this has happened has been while driving at a pretty low speed( I don't know if that has anything to do with it)? MY car is a 2001 Honda Accord Ex with 80k miles
View 11 RepliesMy R is almost at 70k miles and the front end feels sloppy and loose. What is the best option to restore that new car feel or even get it handling better than stock? I already have United Motorsport strut mounts which definitely improved the handling. ECS has some suspension refresh kits (links below), but the question is which one should I go with? Would the Stage 1 kit with OEM replacements be enough? Or should I go with the Stage 3 with Powerflex bushings? I'm always down for upgrading rather than simply replacing. I'm sure that would get it handling real nice, but would definitely create a stiffer ride, right?
Stage 1 - [URL] ...
Stage 2 - [URL] ...
Stage 2+ - [URL] ...
Stage 3 - [URL] ...
I have my Accord Automatic. Well when driving and the car goes like to a different gear, it slides. When this happens i let go of the gas and press the gas slowly again and go back up to my speed.
View 1 RepliesI just took my car in to have my tires balanced and rotated, and the tire place said my front left wheel bearing is coming loose. The guy said it isn't dangerous, and that I'll eventually hear a rumbling sound. I'm wondering if this is a fair price for the repair, and how soon I need to take care of this. Also, at some point I'm going to need to have my front rotors turned/replaced, but my brother said I don't need brake pads yet. Since I'm fairly clueless about this stuff, I'm wondering if I should deal with the rotors at the same time as the wheel bearing, or wait until the brake pads need to be replaced.
View 7 RepliesTwo weeks ago I had to brake suddenly while driving in town and my A/C immediately stopped cooling although the fan continued to work. I drove it home and the next morning when I started my car the A/C worked fine. It was working fine until yesterday when I was driving and again had to brake suddenly to pull over after taking a wrong turn. The A/C immediately went out again. Only this time the A/C didn't ever start working correctly again.
2003 Honda Accord EX - A/C problem related to hard and sudden braking?
I took a long trip this last weekend and before the return trip I checked the oil and realized I need some. I put two quarts which brought the level just about even with the top mark on the dipstick. the return trip was fine. Next morning I started the car and right away notice that the engine was misfiring. I checked the spark plugs and noticed that one of them was loose and had some oil in it. I checked the oil and now it showed the level to be well above the top mark on the dipstick. Could too much oil cause the spark plug to get dirty, get loose and misfire? This car is a 1997 and has 206,000 miles. This is the first time this has happened. Could the same thing happend with a 1999 Honda Civic?
View 10 RepliesRecently I started hearing a rattling/grinding metallic sound coming off the right rear while driving slowly. This sound is not reproduced when braking.At first it started while doing sharp right turns only, now its ever present while driving. I showed it to a mechanic he says rotors needs to be replaced. Is he right? 2003 Honda Accord V6....
View 7 RepliesI have recently replaced all 4 struts in my car with monroe quick struts. I have a 2002 Accord. Everything went wonderful until a few weeks later I heard a rattle from the front passenger side. Its a light "tinny" rattle, almost as if a bolt was loose and it was jiggling around. It doesn't happen every time and sometimes goes away altogether. I took it to my trusted mechanic, and they spend a good 45 minutes inside looking at things and overtightened everything to no avail. I have ruled out a defective strut (as I replaced it with one and the new one does the same thing) and I ruled out the stabilizer bar bushing (brand new OEM part I installed) and I ruled out the sway bar link (also new).
View 4 Replies2000 Honda Civic DX, green, four doors, 91,000 miles. A few weeks ago I noticed that the steering wheel was loose when driving but only about 30% of the time--didn't seem to be related to whether the car was warmed up or time of day or speed, just that it happened when the car was moving. The steering wheel would have play when the wheels were pointed/driving straight and the looseness went away when turning. I brought it in to the mechanic and of course he couldn't get it to happen when he drove it. Replaced worn inner tie rods, did a power steering flush/replaced the power steering fluid and did a front end alignment. Drove fine for two weeks but then it started occurring again, this time even more loose/more play in the steering, still only when driving straight. Oh, just one time (so far) a few days ago it was loose when I was standing still at a stop light.
View 10 RepliesI was driving my car to school and right before I got to a busy intersection the speedometer dropped off and then my engine shut itself off, the radio and dashboard panel still had power and were working fine, the driving panel had lights blinking like I had the car in the on position without the engine going. I had to put my car into park and then start it up again.
View 3 RepliesSo, for the last week or so my cars has started dieing while driving. First time it died randomly when approaching stop signs a couple years ago. Now it seems to have progressed and dies while on the highway and now has become more frequent to date. I checked for vacuum leak and spraying all visible lines that I could see from engine bay. Engine codes...the array of engine codes. P0420 catalyst system efficiency, P0706 trans solenoid 'C' clutch, and P0430 another catalyst system inefficiency to join it's brother P0420. The car starts up fine in the morning. Car does not ride rough.
Today I changed the spark plugs and noticed oil in all 4 wells and a lot of oil in the 3rd one. I changed the spark plugs because they were 20k miles and figured I might as well replace them while I'm diagnosing the car. So turned back on the car after doing the job and got a puff of smoke...go to o'reillys and new codes. P108(MAP Pressure Circuit High Input), P110(Something about coolant being high input) and still the P0420. (Shop I took it to must have removed old codes. Not sure why).
So there shouldn't be oil in the wells because my shop did head gasket job 2 years ago. I'm pretty confident in their work, so I'm thinking it must be blowby and because the amount of oil in all 4 wells. (But then again this is the cars second head gasket job, so who knows) If it is indeed the rings causing blow by, is it safe to drive around with oil in the wells? If I drain it regularly can I continue to drive it safely? Is there a test to determine if it's blowby?
I ran car for oil cap off looking for smoke, nothing. I did feel a steady stream of air though, not sure what's normal and abnormal on that front.
So over the past year, I've noticed an increased 'hum' while driving in my 2001 Honda Accord Sedan. Originally this only occurred while going 80 on the Interstate. I just passed it off as going over the speed limit and tires then. Over the past few months however, I've noticed it occurring at speeds as low as 30-40mph. It's not deafening, but is a solid 'mmmmm' coming from what sounds like the rear left tire. When I make a right-turning curve the sound lessens or vanishes during that curve entirely, but a left-turning curve makes no change to the sound. As I slow to below 30mph, the sound disappears.
The rear tires are due for replacing soon, but I've driven on MUCH barer tires in college with no recollection of this sort of sound (in other cars). The wheel appears to be solid with no wobble as well.
I noticed today when I was washing the car that the rear bumper feels loose to me compared to other cars... If I grab the bottom the bumper, just aft of the rear wheel, there can be significant movements of the bumper, and its the same on both sides... I don't see any loose screws.
Tried it with other model cars, the movement range from very small to nonexistent...not sure if it's just my vehicle or if they are all like this by design(or the lack of). The top of the bumper feels rigid enough. Now I kinda want to know if this looseness is causing my bumper to be flapping in the wind at highway speed...
Having this issue? 2016 IS350 F-Sport. Car has 2700 Miles on it.
View 14 Replies2014 Passat... I've got a little over 2,000 miles on mine now and I really do like the car. However, one thing that is really bothersome to me is----the brakes.
I'm not sure if it is specific to my car or to the passat in general. Here's the issue:
When applying the brakes, the pedal feels almost loose, as though the is no pressure on it, but once you push the pedal down far enough the brakes come on heavy, hard and fast. It's like turning on a light switch.
I am wondering if this is an adjustment that I can have done at the dealer to put more feel into the brakes or if this is just something that we all have to live with, of if maybe there could be something wrong with the brakes on my car.
My 1989 Honda Accord LX, with 135,000 miles on it, stalls after a few minutes of driving. Then, after re-starting, it stalls before I even have a chance to put it into drive. My mechanic replaced an electric base plate gasket in the carburetor but warned me that this repair might not fix the problem. If it didn't, I probably would need to replace the carburetor -- if one could be found for a 1989 model. Well, I still have the problem. My question: Is it worth it to invest $1,500, more or less, for a carburetor for a 22-year-old car? I've been using it strictly as a second car for the last 11 or 12 years. It seems to be in good shape otherwise.
View 2 RepliesMy father in law gave us a car to use so my husband can get back n forth to work. Recently it started dying on him while he was on the highway and we don't know whats wrong with it. His father told us its a brand new batter that was put in it before he gave it to us. The car is a 1990 Honda Accord. The radio already doesn't work so its always off. The car dies no matter if heat/air is on or off. I don't think it could be a battery problem. There's 2 lights that come on when it dies: battery and oil. We put oil in it. The weird thing is that after it dies, we put it in park and turn key in ignition to off position and then restart it and it starts right back up with no problem. We really don't know whats wrong with it but cant afford to take it to mechanics to tell us 100 other things wrong with it..
View 3 RepliesMy '99 Accord has developed a bad habit of shutting itself off while I'm driving. The first time this happened was a few months ago. The engine shut off and the key light flashed, as if I had turned the key to shut the car off. The radio and lights remained on. It started again without incident.
In the last month, it has been happening more frequently. I have noticed that sometimes I am unable to get the engine to turn over the first time. This is always followed by the car shutting off at some point while I'm driving.
Today, I was unable to start my car the first few times I tried and it shut off three or four times on my five minute trip home. The radio, lights for the A/C and windows all still had power. I had trouble restarting the car after each incident but did eventually get it going again.
What the problem is? Maybe it's just time for a new car...
Does it every time. It started suddenly out of the blue. Start it up if i leave town i get 3 or 4 miles out if ni stay in town i might get back home from post office if i hustle. Let it sit 10 or 15 minutes and it will start again for 4 or 5 mins. again. I have replaced the distributor the whole unit and replaced the ignition switch, both parts are new.
View 5 Replies I have a 1999 Honda Accord that keeps turning off while I'm driving it. It has been doing it for a couple months now. Sometimes, it shuts off when the car is idling or stopped at a traffic light. Other times, it turns off while driving at cruising speed. When it turns off, electrical devices still function, ie. power windows go up and down, radio works, lights work...
I've replaced a couple different parts to try and fix it, but no luck as of yet. So far, I've had the following parts replaced: the main relay; the ignition coil in the distributor; the module in distributor; and the air filter. I also had the spark plugs regapped, and I have tried driving with the gas cap loosened to see if there was a problem with a vacuum forming in the gas tank.
I have a friend suggesting that it could be the idle control valve or the throttle positioning sensor. Could the computer be going out?