I replaced the valve cover gasket set and that stopped the oil leak. A few months later it looks like the vtec valve assy. is leaking. Should I replace the vtec valve assy. or just the gaskets?
View 1 RepliesIf my A/C compressor has a leak can it be fixed or does it have to be replaced?
View 6 RepliesI have a 02 Honda accord which is leaking oil from behind the engine. Where could it be coming from?
View 2 Replieswater leaks in under the rear seat when driving in the rain ,no rust spots but allso noticed thair is no mud flaps or any water gards around rear tires?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1996 Honda Accord 4 cyl. with 150 K miles. Had a coolant leak that the shop fixed. About 60 days later, same problem. I have to refill radiator every other day. What I noticed is a brown soft muck buildup at the radiator cap area. Also the car seems to run rough on and off. The underside of the oil cap is clean, no carmel color ( oil and coolant mixture) buildup.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1998 Honda Accord, automatic with 179,000 miles. The malfunction indicator light came on so I had the car smoked and found that it needed a purge valve. I replaced the purge valve and smoked the car again which indicated the car still has a vapor leak and the malfunction light stayed on. The only place visible smoke is coming from is from the fuel filler neck (place where fuel or gas is put into the car) when the gas cap is off. Where the leak may be? My car is also getting horrible gas mileage. I was going to replace the fuel filter but I heard it was in the gas tank, is this right and is it replaceable? Would replacing the gas cap work for either the vapor leak or gas mileage?
View 8 RepliesI've got an 04' accord and within the last couple weeks it started blowing warmer air but now it's hot. I've called around for a few prices to see about getting the freon replaced and everyone I've called is concerned there's a leak. We'll I've had the for 10 years doesn't the freon just run out eventually and you need to fill it up again? Am I getting scammed if I take it some place and they do a diagnostic that might be a hundred bucks just to look at it?
View 3 RepliesI have a 97 Honda Accord with V Tec engine, 2.2L. I have an oil leak that is coming from BEHIND the timing belt cover. I removed the cover and the belts to expose several seals. The oil leak is quite extensive and leaves a good puddle after running the engine, however, it will not leak once I clean up the mess, put the car up on jack stands and disassemble the engine. I cannot tell which seal is leaking and am wondering how to tell which seal is leaking. Is there a way to apply pressure to the engine with air, possibly through the oil dipstick hole to possibly expose the leaking seal?
View 9 RepliesA few weeks ago my car over heated and stopped. I had it towed and the mechanic changed the water pump, timing belt, gasket cover and more. About two weeks ago I noticed antifreeze on my drive way. Took it back in and the mechanic changed a clamp on the radiator. it continued to leak antifreeze. I took it to Pep Boys for a pressurized test, they couldn't find a leak, but did say my radiator hoses needed changing and they suspect the radiator cap is the problem. That was a week ago. I just got back from vacation and the reservoir keeps getting low every day, but not at the minimum line since the first mechanic filled it to the top. There is not apparent leak under neath the car. No smell when I start. Oil is not milky. Called first mechanic he said sounds like a blown head gasket....
Car is Honda Accord 1999, 138K miles.
I noticed oil on my garage floor from my 2002 Honda Accord V6 and thought the dealer hadn't tightened the oil pan bolt. The dealer charged me to diagnose that the dripping oil came from a main bearing cap side bolt. It seems the bolt threads, aren't sealed at the factory and to fix the problem the dealer will remove the bolt, clean it, then apply Hondabond HT Silicone Gasket to the threads and washer contact area. I have to leave the car for 24 hrs for the sealer to dry before staring the engine. Bolt to be removed, cleaned, sealed and replaced. Is this a recall item?
View 12 RepliesI have a new 2015 Accord. After a recent rain storm I found about an inch of water in the well where the spare tire is stored. I took it to the dealer and they ran numerous leak tests but could not reproduce the problem.
Since the car was parked during the storm, I don't see how the water could have gotten in there except via one of the light assemblies or by getting past the gasket. In other words, it wasn't blown up into the trunk from the roadway. The puzzler is that the carpet in the car was dry when I found the water. I googled this for hours and I don't find others with 2015 trunk leak complaints. All the complaints are for earlier model Accords.
The other day I noticed some brownish almost chunky looking fluid all over inside the wheel well for the front passenger side wheel. Doing some research it seems like it's probably a CV boot leak because that's where most of the fluid is concentrated. I took a few pictures. I just wanna know if this is serious???
View 6 RepliesI own an '01 Honda Accord LX with the ULEV engine and 178k on it. My CEL light came on about 6 months ago. Ran the scanner and it showed a P1457 (EVAP Leak). Waited until now when my inspection was due and expected it to be caused by the EVAP shut valve as I read that's often the cause of the problem with this code. Mechanic said that it can't pass inspection because of the OBD fail but that the diagnostic scanner showed everything functioning properly, including my assumption about the faulty shut valve.
He reset the code and said to drive it the 50 miles for the system to ready itself and bring it back in. As I've reset the code several times over the 6 months to see if it would self correct, I'm pretty confident it will come back on. My questions are, is it possible I've done damage to the onboard computer by not addressing the underlying problem 6 months ago? Are there emissions problems that are not checked by the diagnostic tool that the mechanic should be looking for?
AC went out on 2003 Honda Accord with 120k miles. Mechanic checked and found bad compressor. Do they usually go bad after 8 years or that mileage? (I live in humid hot South, so AC gets used a lot.) Putting in a used compressor costs $470 with labor, 6 month guarantee, versus new compressor for $700 with labor, 12 month guarantee. Since it's the start of summer, a 12 month guarantee doesn't much more. But will used compressor last for another 5-8 years or 100k miles? When new (or originally in the car) how long do they usually last?
View 3 RepliesI bought this car off the showroom floor with about 1,200 miles on it. Since just past 70,000 miles or so, this car has been using more and more oil between changes. It now appears to be up to about 1 quart per thousand miles, maybe just 800 miles. I don't see any sign of a leak. There now are 201,000 miles on this engine. The V-tech solenoid had to be replaced about 30,000 miles back. Timing chain has never been replaced; nothing else major has been repaired. Last new PCV valve was put in about 30,000 miles back. It didn't seem to slow down oil consumption. This oil problem is the only problem with this car, except for the V-tec before, and some rattles. Otherwise it is as reliable as any car I've ever owned, and I've been around a while.
I've read many blogs and other web pages on this, and it's a common problem with this particular Honda engine. Is there any chance that this oil usage is something besides worn piston rings? Some people seem to think it might be worn valve seals, and/or worn camshaft seals? how expensive is that to get fixed? If it's any of these things, is there really any practical solution other than a new engine, or maybe a rebuilt?
Short of thousands of $ in repair costs, would a different type of oil reduce oil consumption? I read some people saying to stay away from synthetic (why would that matter?); some talk about oil treatments; one honda service manager says he puts good old STP in a high mileage, Honda, he owns. I tried that with this car, just one application, and I didn't notice any drop in consumption, but I drive a LOT, in all types of conditions, so I don't know that I gave it a real chance to work. In such an old engine, if I experiment with these, is there any chance of doing further damage to the engine? For that matter, would switching to 5W-30 or maybe a 10-weight, possibly slow down this excessive oil usage? I really don't want to buy a new car.
I have a honda accord 2003 ex. I bought the car over a year ago. A couple months in with the car i started to feel that the car vibrates while in idle. I replace the motor mounts and the shaking is still there. When i drive the car at night with the headlights on the shaking gets worse. If i put it in neutral sometimes there is no shaking and sometimes you can feel it a little bit. Also, in the summer when i turn on the ac the shaking gets so much worse, even if i put it in neutral the shaking is still pretty bad. One more thing, when i turn on the heat and put the car in neutral there is not too much shaking. I just don't know what to do anymore.
View 6 RepliesI have my Accord Automatic. Well when driving and the car goes like to a different gear, it slides. When this happens i let go of the gas and press the gas slowly again and go back up to my speed.
View 1 RepliesI recently left my car parked at a park and ride over the holiday weekend while traveling to visit some family, and when I returned the car would not start as quickly as it had been prior to me leaving it. The car is an '03 with about 165k miles on it, battery replaced about two years ago. I do travel quite often for work, but have never noticed a drop off in crank time until this past weekend.
I did have the serpentine belt changed almost three months ago. (not saying that is in any way related to my current issue, just giving a bit of history on car maintenance). What I should have checked, (starter, battery, etc)? Should I not leave the car idle for more than a couple of days with such high miles on the engine?
My 2003 Honda Accord radio will turn on while the car keys are not in the car. It's been happening for months now. If I leave the radio powered on while the car is off it will drain the battery by the time I try to start it again in the morning. If I turn the radio off before the car keys are out I can still see the radio receiving power (the clock on the display lights up).
I had a different issue about a year ago where if the radio was on it would make really loud popping noise then go silent. I could usually get it back by turning it of an on several times. I it to a car audio shop who soldered the connections in the radio and I haven't had the problem since. After this I also had an iPod/iPhone adapter installed. It seems as though the issue with the radio staying on may have started somewhere around that time.
What could be causing this? The guy at the car audio shop says that he thinks the radio is just bad and that Honda had a huge problem with radios in Accords from that year. However I don't want to spend money to put a new radio in only to have the same issue after.
I drive a 2003 Honda Accord and it shakes violently whenever I'm accelerating between 55 and 65 mph. If you put a shaker on the passenger seat, you'd have a martini. Approaching 55, it's fine, and then it shakes as I go up to 65 and then smooths out when I pass 65. If I am cruising, but not accelerating in between 55 and 65, it stops shaking, but once I hit the gas, it shakes.
The same phenomenon occurs in both third and fourth gears, so it doesn't appear to be related to what part of the power band the car is in. This model Accord had a recall on the engine mounts, which I had replaced at no small cost already.
I am getting a raw constant raw gas odor from under the hood - and in the cabin with the ventilation on. This happens whenever the engine is on - hot, cold, at start up or 50 miles down the road. No visible leaks, no drips - nothing. My lousy Honda dealer found nothing. Pressure check on the fuel system was fine,no leaking hoses, no check engine light, no codes. Smell seems to be coming from the behind the engine on the left side (looking at the engine from the front) - behind cylinders 1 and 2. 125k EX V6.
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