Honda - Accord :: 2003 - AC Went Out / Bad Compressor
May 11, 2011
AC went out on 2003 Honda Accord with 120k miles. Mechanic checked and found bad compressor. Do they usually go bad after 8 years or that mileage? (I live in humid hot South, so AC gets used a lot.) Putting in a used compressor costs $470 with labor, 6 month guarantee, versus new compressor for $700 with labor, 12 month guarantee. Since it's the start of summer, a 12 month guarantee doesn't much more. But will used compressor last for another 5-8 years or 100k miles? When new (or originally in the car) how long do they usually last?
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If my A/C compressor has a leak can it be fixed or does it have to be replaced?
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I have been waiting for the pulley to be replaced and was just informed that the air compressor put in last July was defective. The compressor is being replaced because it's under warantee but I'm wondering if a defective air compressor could have caused the pulley to break.
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I have a 1996 Honda accord ex with the vtech and 176000 miles. The problem Is everytime nomatter if the engine is how of cold there is a noise coming from under the hood that sounds like a compressor and when this happen and I try to step on the brakes, it'll work but it would vibrate. When I opened up the hood It sounded like it was coming from the right side of the engine (where all the belts are) what might this be?
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I replaced the valve cover gasket set and that stopped the oil leak. A few months later it looks like the vtec valve assy. is leaking. Should I replace the vtec valve assy. or just the gaskets?
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I bought this car off the showroom floor with about 1,200 miles on it. Since just past 70,000 miles or so, this car has been using more and more oil between changes. It now appears to be up to about 1 quart per thousand miles, maybe just 800 miles. I don't see any sign of a leak. There now are 201,000 miles on this engine. The V-tech solenoid had to be replaced about 30,000 miles back. Timing chain has never been replaced; nothing else major has been repaired. Last new PCV valve was put in about 30,000 miles back. It didn't seem to slow down oil consumption. This oil problem is the only problem with this car, except for the V-tec before, and some rattles. Otherwise it is as reliable as any car I've ever owned, and I've been around a while.
I've read many blogs and other web pages on this, and it's a common problem with this particular Honda engine. Is there any chance that this oil usage is something besides worn piston rings? Some people seem to think it might be worn valve seals, and/or worn camshaft seals? how expensive is that to get fixed? If it's any of these things, is there really any practical solution other than a new engine, or maybe a rebuilt?
Short of thousands of $ in repair costs, would a different type of oil reduce oil consumption? I read some people saying to stay away from synthetic (why would that matter?); some talk about oil treatments; one honda service manager says he puts good old STP in a high mileage, Honda, he owns. I tried that with this car, just one application, and I didn't notice any drop in consumption, but I drive a LOT, in all types of conditions, so I don't know that I gave it a real chance to work. In such an old engine, if I experiment with these, is there any chance of doing further damage to the engine? For that matter, would switching to 5W-30 or maybe a 10-weight, possibly slow down this excessive oil usage? I really don't want to buy a new car.
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I have a honda accord 2003 ex. I bought the car over a year ago. A couple months in with the car i started to feel that the car vibrates while in idle. I replace the motor mounts and the shaking is still there. When i drive the car at night with the headlights on the shaking gets worse. If i put it in neutral sometimes there is no shaking and sometimes you can feel it a little bit. Also, in the summer when i turn on the ac the shaking gets so much worse, even if i put it in neutral the shaking is still pretty bad. One more thing, when i turn on the heat and put the car in neutral there is not too much shaking. I just don't know what to do anymore.
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I have my Accord Automatic. Well when driving and the car goes like to a different gear, it slides. When this happens i let go of the gas and press the gas slowly again and go back up to my speed.
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I recently left my car parked at a park and ride over the holiday weekend while traveling to visit some family, and when I returned the car would not start as quickly as it had been prior to me leaving it. The car is an '03 with about 165k miles on it, battery replaced about two years ago. I do travel quite often for work, but have never noticed a drop off in crank time until this past weekend.
I did have the serpentine belt changed almost three months ago. (not saying that is in any way related to my current issue, just giving a bit of history on car maintenance). What I should have checked, (starter, battery, etc)? Should I not leave the car idle for more than a couple of days with such high miles on the engine?
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My 2003 Honda Accord radio will turn on while the car keys are not in the car. It's been happening for months now. If I leave the radio powered on while the car is off it will drain the battery by the time I try to start it again in the morning. If I turn the radio off before the car keys are out I can still see the radio receiving power (the clock on the display lights up).
I had a different issue about a year ago where if the radio was on it would make really loud popping noise then go silent. I could usually get it back by turning it of an on several times. I it to a car audio shop who soldered the connections in the radio and I haven't had the problem since. After this I also had an iPod/iPhone adapter installed. It seems as though the issue with the radio staying on may have started somewhere around that time.
What could be causing this? The guy at the car audio shop says that he thinks the radio is just bad and that Honda had a huge problem with radios in Accords from that year. However I don't want to spend money to put a new radio in only to have the same issue after.
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I drive a 2003 Honda Accord and it shakes violently whenever I'm accelerating between 55 and 65 mph. If you put a shaker on the passenger seat, you'd have a martini. Approaching 55, it's fine, and then it shakes as I go up to 65 and then smooths out when I pass 65. If I am cruising, but not accelerating in between 55 and 65, it stops shaking, but once I hit the gas, it shakes.
The same phenomenon occurs in both third and fourth gears, so it doesn't appear to be related to what part of the power band the car is in. This model Accord had a recall on the engine mounts, which I had replaced at no small cost already.
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I am getting a raw constant raw gas odor from under the hood - and in the cabin with the ventilation on. This happens whenever the engine is on - hot, cold, at start up or 50 miles down the road. No visible leaks, no drips - nothing. My lousy Honda dealer found nothing. Pressure check on the fuel system was fine,no leaking hoses, no check engine light, no codes. Smell seems to be coming from the behind the engine on the left side (looking at the engine from the front) - behind cylinders 1 and 2. 125k EX V6.
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I drive a 96 honda accord and my dad just got a 2003 VW golf and when i drive it it feels weird. When i hit the gas on my accord its solid and hard but when i hit the gas on the VW golf it feels loose i can hit the bottom of the car in the gas and it wont make any reaction.
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2003 Accord with 161K+ miles on it.notice several months back that the oil light would blink about 1 to 5 minutes into driving. I would turn the engine off, sit for 10 or 15 seconds, and start it back up and never see the light again the entire day.
this would happen once a week or so until I would get the oil changed, then I wouldn't see it again for 2000 or 3000 more miles.
Had Honda check it out, they found nothing wrong.
Lately, it happens more often, always first thing when driving, 1 to 5 minutes from starting.
Today I noticed something that makes me think it is a bad sensor; I have to make a U-turn today and I took it quite fast. As I was in mid turn I noticed the oil light KIND of flashing/blinking/trying to come on... like a light does if you hold the switch around the middle, flickered dimly. After I completed the U-turn the light did not stay on.
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord LX with 96K miles on it. As the weather has gotten colder, my car radio is turning itself on. I walked out last week to a frigid 19 degrees here in KY to the blaring sound of my radio on in the car. There was no one in the car and no key in the ignition, rather the key was in my hand. This has continued to be a problem and occurs sporadically during the day. I have tried turning the radio on/off, keeping the volume down, but regardless, even the clock face panel turns itself on.
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2003 Accord EX, about 145K miles. About a year ago, the back passenger side door would not lock. So now I just keep it locked and if I ever need it open, I reach back to unlock it. About 6 months ago, the front passenger side door stopped responding to a lock command. But the funny thing was, when it started to show signs of weakness, I could press lock (on driver side door or remote) about 5 or 6 times and it would eventually make its way down or up. Eventually, it just stopped working altogether. So now I have 2 out of 4 doors that lock and unlock remotely or by the master unlock/lock button on the driver's side. I have found NO other issues with the car that would seem related to this. The AC has stopped blowing cold air but it did this last summer too (and fixed itself) so I think that is unrelated. I am happy, willing, and able to do any minor fixes myself on the car.
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord. I've had an issue with steering wheel vibration for the past 10 months. In that time, I've installed new hubcentric rings for my after market wheels, gotten my tires balanced, bought a whole new set of tires all together, and changed my cv axles twice. I still experience vibration in the steering wheel when I get up to 60 mph and all the way up to 80 mph. At times I have had vibration at low speeds, around 20 mph, but that was solved first when I installed the hubcentric rings, and again most recently with this second set of cv axles. Am I missing something or will I have to chase a solution to this problem until I am bankrupt?
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I have a problem with vibration in steering wheel and at speeds of 50 to 60 mph. It also vibrates at idle. This problem did not start until we had new brakes and rotors turn. We also have had tires rotated and balance. They told us we needed new motor mounts. We had them replace and the shake got worse. They replaced the front axles and the transmission mount. I also bought two new tires.
This started out when we took our car to have the tires rotated and balance. The Mechanic told us we needed new brakes, so we took it to get this done. we are now having all kinds of problems as I stated above. Took it to the Honda place here and one person told us it was not worth fixing. I do not believe this. The car has a little over a 115,000 miles on it. I have been driving a Honda since 1992. This car we bought new and I know it has been service.. One person at the Honda place here said he could replace all the mounts and would not promise it would fix it. We have even had one of the new tires replace because they said it was bad.
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I have an 03 accord EX. The right turn signal doesnt work at all. I have changed the bulbs and the fuse. The left signal works just fine, while the right doesn't work front or back and the indicator light on the dash doesnt come on or click. Same happens when I put on the hazards. Its like there is no power at all to that side...
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A couple of years ago I went through the salt water with my 2003 Honda Accord which is a manual transmission. It only has 106,000 miles and expects it to go much further. The clutch works great but when engaged is really loud. I have had it checked by 2 different auto repair places. Nothing is wrong they say. It has been cleaned and greased.
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I had my car battery replaced about three months ago and when it was replaced they put those little anti-corrosion felt pads at the base of the terminals as well as anti-corrosion grease. My positive terminal would never maintain a secure connection so I removed the felt pad and replaced the terminal connection. Now my only problem is whenever it is very cold outside and I try to start the car, I lose power instantly as soon as the starter is about to engage. I always have to twist the positive terminal back and forth a couple times, listening to the crunching sound of the anti-corrosion grease, and power is restored.
Is there any brand of grease I can use that won't cause this issue? Yes, I have removed the terminal, cleaned out the old grease and replaced with another pouch of the cheap stuff at the autozone counter and that didn't work. There is no corrosion buildup on the terminals but I've consistently had the problem for the past few months.
I know Honda had a recall on ignition switched a while ago, and they replaced mine, but I'm not sure if there is any direct connection since my daily fix involves me manipulating the battery terminal to get the car started. 2003 Accord EX ...
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