Honda - Accord :: 2002 - High Idle And When First Cranked Smelled Excessive Exhaust Fumes
Dec 29, 2014
The dealer recently replaced the front and side motor supports. Since then I've noticed that the car idles high when first cranked and I smelled excessive exhaust fumes. One time it idled really high and would not idle down when I hit the gas. Then it started idling up and down when my foot was not on the gas. Could there be any connection between this and the motor support installation? Could linkage to the gas pedal have been bent during installation? 2002 6 cylinder Honda Accord EX.....
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Newly acquired 2002 Accord.
At idle and while at a stop, the cabin receives a heavy dose of exhaust fumes (nope, not from the auto in front of me - I'm often alone at stop lights/signs)... what is the most likely culprit?
This did not seem to occur until AFTER I had the timing belt (package) replaced...coincidence
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About two years ago, I noticed the smell of exhaust fumes in the cabin of my 2000 Honda Civic any time the vents were set to pull air from outside the cabin. Switching the vents to recirculate would prevent the fumes. Looking under the hood, I found the exhaust manifold was cracked, so I replaced it along with the catalyic converter (actually one piece in this model) and two O2 sensors. Since the replacement, the problem with exhaust fumes remains. I have asked my mechanic to look at this a couple of times, and he could not find the cause. What to try next to diagnose the problem. We use the car frequently, and just have to leave the vents set on recirculate. This becomes an issue on rainy, humid days when recirculate causes the windows to fog.
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I bought this car off the showroom floor with about 1,200 miles on it. Since just past 70,000 miles or so, this car has been using more and more oil between changes. It now appears to be up to about 1 quart per thousand miles, maybe just 800 miles. I don't see any sign of a leak. There now are 201,000 miles on this engine. The V-tech solenoid had to be replaced about 30,000 miles back. Timing chain has never been replaced; nothing else major has been repaired. Last new PCV valve was put in about 30,000 miles back. It didn't seem to slow down oil consumption. This oil problem is the only problem with this car, except for the V-tec before, and some rattles. Otherwise it is as reliable as any car I've ever owned, and I've been around a while.
I've read many blogs and other web pages on this, and it's a common problem with this particular Honda engine. Is there any chance that this oil usage is something besides worn piston rings? Some people seem to think it might be worn valve seals, and/or worn camshaft seals? how expensive is that to get fixed? If it's any of these things, is there really any practical solution other than a new engine, or maybe a rebuilt?
Short of thousands of $ in repair costs, would a different type of oil reduce oil consumption? I read some people saying to stay away from synthetic (why would that matter?); some talk about oil treatments; one honda service manager says he puts good old STP in a high mileage, Honda, he owns. I tried that with this car, just one application, and I didn't notice any drop in consumption, but I drive a LOT, in all types of conditions, so I don't know that I gave it a real chance to work. In such an old engine, if I experiment with these, is there any chance of doing further damage to the engine? For that matter, would switching to 5W-30 or maybe a 10-weight, possibly slow down this excessive oil usage? I really don't want to buy a new car.
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08 Accord. After replacing the starter and cleaning the throttle body I keep having a CEL and the P0507 code.
Checked for leaks around intake, vacuum lines, etc. found none.
Tried the relearn procedure and still no luck. Car idea higher than normal ( just over 1000 rpms warm). Also feels like it wants to pull even when stopped.
So I figure I have either:-damaged the throttle body somehow cleaning it- Have incorrectly implemented the re learn procedure- missed a vacuum leak ( possible but doubtful)- or something else I don't know about
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I bought a 2002 accord with 105800 miles 3 weeks ago. I got the timing belt and water pump replaced within a week of that. I have noticed that the car makes a high pitch noise upon accelerating after replacing the belt. It does not happen always, but sometimes. I have noticed it on 3 days in last 2 weeks. A preliminary web search tells me that it could be a tight timing belt.
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2015 6.7 KR... when idling for long periods of time the cab starts to smell like exhaust. I've also noticed when standing outside the truck with it idling (not in regen), it freaking stinks, bad! My 2003 never had this problem and idled for days (literally). Possibly leaky gasket here or just the nature of the 6.7?
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I'm losing coolant have, excessive white smoke coming from the exhaust, and rough idle. Doesn't over heat or even try to overheat. The oil fill cap looks brownish white. It drives fine other than extremely rough idle. I know how to check a blown head gasket with the combustion gas test.
From what I've read blown head gaskets on 4.6 fords are fairly uncommon but a blown intake gasket is fairly common. How can I tell the difference?
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Lately I have noticed a lot of blueish smoke coming from my exhaust at idle mostly while warming in the morning though it would do it if the truck idled for a few minutes. I took it to the dealer because I have fords ESP but the tech couldn't get the truck to smoke and wasn't getting any codes so he sent it back with a clean bill of health. After getting it back I noticed it smoking again so I picked up the egr valve kit pulled the valve and cleaned it as best I could and replaced the seals, that was last night. This morning it was blowing more smoke than it has before and has continued all day whether cold or warm. I just changed the oil last week and it's still full so it isn't burning any. Head gaskets were done along with studs last month, egr is obviously intact, cat is gone. I'm really at a loss for this, It's an 07 f350 scsb 6.0...
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I have a 98 accord Ex. Just a couple of days ago the exhaust system started to rattle. I crawled under the the car and found that the exhaust pipes were pretty rusted. However I couldn't decide which parts of exhaust system should be replaced: the muffler, exhaust pipes, or the catalytic converter? Is there any tips to identify the broken parts?
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The problem only occurs on a cold start. I put the key in and start the motor. It starts fine. It runs fine for about three(3) seconds and then the RPM's start to dive (I have to give it gas to keep it from dying). The exhaust begins to put out quite a bit of smoke and the engine runs really really really rough,... kinda like it has a heavy cam in it.
After a few minutes of this exhaust smoke and rough running, the engine of course is warming up. The RPM's start to come up on its own, the exhaust smoke disappears and the really really really rough idle (not really an idle because I have to give it gas to prevent the motor from dying) disappears and the car idles perfectly.This cold start problem also uses up a noticeable amount of gasoline.
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I have a 1999 Honda Accord. It consumes oil but is not leaking, the compression is good, and there is no sign of burning. What could it be? Might sludge result in the problem?
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I have a 1991 Accord that won't turn on the high beams. I can pull the dimmer switch and it clicks and the dash indicator comes on for the high beams but it just keeps the low beams on. I am guessing the dimmer relay isn't working properly but am not sure how to test it. Also where would I buy one? I have checked a couple sites and even a search doesn't bring it up.
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My 1992 Honda Accord failed the emission test today for a too high NOX reading. The applicable standard is 2.50 and my car's reading was 2.61. I've read that high NOX has something to do with a malfunctioning EGR valve. Will replacing the EGR valve guarantee that I pass the emissions test? I don't want to start throwing money at all kinds of parts.
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1989 Honda Accord DX .. I have 2 problems.
Problem 1: the car will not idle with the ac on, goes dead.
Problem 2: the tank has a capacity of 15.9 gal. But after 10 gal. have been used, I have to put gas in for the car to run.
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My 2007 suddenly wants to give no heat when idle...as soon as I begin moving again the heat blows hot, but when stopped at a light or sitting in park the heat only blows cold air...
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I recently had an oil change at a new shop. While I was there, they said I needed to get a power steering and brake fluid flush and recommended a fuel induction service. I have a 2003 Honda Accord with about 107,000 miles on it. The car runs fine, I have no problems. Occasionally, when I hit the brakes, there is a high pitched squeak.
I've been doing research and getting mixed results on if these services are necessary. What could be the cause of the brake noise?
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I have a 99 Accord, automatic trans with over 197,000 miles, appropriately maintained.
What is the most likely cause of a very high pitched whine that comes up when throttle is being added? Here are some facts: -This is not a constant, or even a daily occurrence. Very randomized. I think I first noticed it over a year and a half ago (20,000 miles).-The sound will continue if the transmission is put in neutral and the RPM maintained (usually 2,000 - 2,500).-If the A/C is on when the sound happens, it will go away when I turn the A/C off.-When the sound is happening, there are no adverse symptoms to go with it. The car runs and drives quite well. Well, this issue is just that inconsistent.
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So, I just found out that the noise my car has been making is related to the power steering. The mechanic said I need to replace the pump, two belts and the high pressure line. The car is a 1993 Honda Accord LX. I can't afford to have the mechanic fix it, so I'm going to have to do it myself. My questions are:1) how long should it take me? I'm not experienced at all. I was thinking of just doing the high pressure line as a 'warm up' to start. Is half a day wishful thinking? Any tips?
2) The mechanic said the hose is leaking all over the belts. He said it was "squirting and pouring out". I tried to duplicate the squirting by turning the wheel all the way and revving the engine. What I saw was a very small leak at the joint. So small it wasn't falling, but I'm sure it would if I waited long enough. The belts appeared dry to me, but I'm not really sure what they are supposed to look like. The mechanic said that they are getting soaked in fluid and that I might throw a belt. Anyway, so my question is how can I tell if the belts are "soaked in" steering fluid.
3) I've been told that if the belts are getting steering fluid on them they might be responsible for the loud squealing noise when turning. If I clean the belts with degreaser, and the noise stops, does this mean that replacing the leaking hose would be sufficient?
I'm making a long road trip in about a week (ca to wa). I'd prefer to deal with the replacement when I get to wa, but I also don't want to make things worse.
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I have a 2004 Honda Accord EX (4 cyl) with 102k miles. I bought it brand new and kept it completely in shape with regular service. For the past few months I start getting front end vibration at braking, mostly when slowing from high speeds and without any repair this vibration has now became common at all speed.... my diagnosis - I need to replace to turn disk/rotors....
While I have not remedy the rotor issue yet, I started getting this new vibration at 60 to 80 mph.... Below and above this range of speed i have no vibrations - the car will drive fine. This type of vibration in my experience for front wheel drives is mostly due to balancing or bad tires. so i took the easy way ..... and as i already needed tires well i dished out the dough and replaced all four with Michelin Primacy hoping that it will resolve the speed related vibration.... Well it did not?
I continue to drive as-is without addressing the real problem - coz I'm not sure what is causing the vibration.... now new additional vibration started on acceleration; any time I hit the gas pedal (normal acceleration or kick-down) I get vibration very similar to when a stick shift's gearbox required replacement/repair of the worn out pressure plate's (fingers/springs gets bent or weak) or the thrust bearing needs replacements/repair/grease packing. I'm from the old school stickshift transmission, my knowledge in automatic is very little - I have repaired Acura's automatic transmission before but I don't think repairing once will make me an expert in automatic.
So to summarize my issues or current state:
Issue# 1 front end vibration on braking
Issue# 2 front end vibration 60 to 80 mph speed only
Issue# 3 front end vibration on acceleration at all speed
The list above is in sequential order as I have experienced.
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I have a 1998 Honda Accord with about 170k miles on it. Lately, I've noticed that the temperature gauge creeps up to about 3/4 of the way to max when I'm driving in heavy traffic and running the air conditioner. This is the only time it goes past the midpoint, and it usually starts going up after maybe 15-20mn of sitting in traffic. If I turn the A/C off, the temperature immediately starts going back down to normal. Also, when traffic is flowing at normal speeds, I can have the a/c on for hours with no issues. The air conditioning itself is also pretty ineffective in heavy traffic situations. It gets very cold when I'm moving at a decent speed, but is pretty weak at low speeds. I just had the radiator replaced about six months ago, and it doesn't seem to be a coolant issue. What the issue could be?
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