My Honda Accord 2002 feels like brakes apply themselves when driving. Car slows down and brake pedal is really sensitive meaning it feels harder than usual and easier to brake. Dont know if it is the brake master cylinder, brake booster or something else.
View 4 RepliesWhen I'm driving at highway speeds and hit the brakes hard-ish (e.g., if the car in front of me stops or if I suddenly realize I'm going too fast on an exit ramp), my 1997 Honda Accord feels like it's shimmying from side to side. It only happens for a moment, but in that moment I feel like I'm on the verge of losing control of the car.
I've only noticed this in the last few months. What this might be? I'm going in for an oil change tomorrow and would like to ask my mechanic to take a look at this, but I'd like to have some theories/guesses in my back pocket before I go in.
At about 92k miles (2 months ago), my 2005 Prius started having a battery issue... When going about 40 mph and above and not having to stop or apply my brakes, my battery would drain (to just 1-2 bars) in about 5-10 minutes and not recharge until I got into stop-and-go traffic (this would happen about 9 out of 10 times). Mpg was still pretty good during that time, but when I finally had to stop, the engine had to kick on to recharge the battery and my mpg just sucked...I went from averaging 45 mph to 39 mph.
I took my car into the dealership for them to have a look and to also perform my 95k service. When I told them that I feared the battery was dying, they said that the good news was that I had another year on my warranty (not sure if the battery warranty is extended in California). The service advisor eventually came back and stated that they had also observed the battery charging problem and that they had to pinpoint the exact problem (either an igniter, a battery cell, or something else that I can't remember). They even started the process of getting me a rental car for a couple of days.
However, the service advisor then came back and stated that no problem was found...he even walked me back into the garage where they were working on all of the cars just to ask the technician working on my car if there was a problem...he also stated that no problem was found. When I asked how initially a problem was found and then suddenly not found, I really didn't get a straight answer (I should have pressed harder). Anyway...after 10 hours in the shop, they pulled my car around and the manager came out to speak to me...stating how the 95k service showed no problems and how no problem with the battery was found. When I asked about how to prove to them that there really was an issue, he stated that if the problem kept occurring I could bring it back in and they could have one of their tech leads drive it home for the night as kind of a road test.
I have a 2002 Toyota Highlander. The rear right turn signal and break light don't work when I apply the brakes. When I use the turn signal or brakes while driving or parked there is no problem, but once I apply the break the back right side does not work. The light bulbs also burn out faster on that side.
View 4 RepliesI have recently noticed that if I am driving at speeds above 40 mph and apply the brakes, the car (including the steering wheel) seems to buck/shake. I've learned to ease off the gas and let the speed drop before applying the brakes-- this seems to work, but I'm concerned about what is going on. This is an '07 Nissan Versa...
View 7 RepliesI have a 1994 Honda Accord Ex i went an had a brake booster and brake master cylinder put on my car. About 3 to 4 days later my brakes locked up on me so i had the brakes bleed, a new brake line, and a need ABS pump put on and the brakes are still locking up what is causing this to happen?
View 2 RepliesI have a '94 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder with ABS. The brakes work fine until I press the ac compressor button, then they rapidly begin to fade, letting the pedal go to the floor. When I turn off the ac compressor, the pedal gradually firms up back to normal. If it was the booster, it would be hard to brake, but it's not. If it was the master cylinder, the pedal would be soft all the time as the cups can not magically regenerate when the ac is off. What's the connection with the ac compressor.
View 5 RepliesMy Honda starts missing and dies when I use the brakes. Why?
View 6 Replies1996 F350 PSD 7.3
Front Dana 60 mono beam
4 x 4
Last week I broke my front right caliper. I replaced the caliper, rotor and pads. Now, when I apply the brakes I pull to the left. I took the truck into my repair shop and let them figure it out. They were unable to repair the truck. They replace the master cylinder, all brake lines, calipers on both sides, brake pads, bearings on both wheels, vehicle alignment, tire balancing and tire rotation. The tires are three months old. Prior to last week i did not have any problems braking or steering. Driving at 60kmh the truck goes straight until i gently brake, it will slightly pull left.
My 2005 Honda Accord (approx 48,000 miles) has had squeaky/grinding brakes for the last few months. The brakes make a horrible grinding noise for the first few times that I brake each time that I drive it, and then as the car warms up the noise seems to go away. It also shakes a little bit when it's making the grinding noise - not a ton, but enough that I think there must be something wrong. It's worse (during those first few brakings) if I brake hard, but even if I'm really gently applying the brake it makes the same unsettling noise. The squeaking noise doesn't go away ever, but I don't think it's as serious as the grinding noise (but I could be wrong - that's why I'm here!).
I took it to a brake specialty place in November or December and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Other than regular oil changes and tire rotations, the car hasn't had any repairs.
Looking for really good ceramic brake pads and rotors for my 2013 Honda Accord LX? I use my car for everyday driving in the city and highway and was hoping to find something that works well in all weather conditions including snow.
View 19 RepliesFront discs and pads replaced about 10k ago and still under warranty - work done by my mechanic whom I have been patronizing for the last 8 years. When the brakes are applied at 40 MPH plus, get a low pitched "HMMMMMMMM" type of sound that goes away as the car decelerates through 40. It is sort of annoying but the brakes work perfectly fine. A mechanic that works for the shop rode with me and listened, and didn't offer much of an explanation or offer to remove the wheels and inspect the brakes. In other words, he cited this as normal. Would it be advisable to get a 2nd opinion? I've never had this issue with brakes on other vehicles I've owned, especially with new brakes.
View 10 RepliesAt 55k, 72k, 76K and 91k the rear brakes have hung up, become very hot and smoked badly. Dealer service claims it comes from rust binding the calipers because we live in the Northeast. I've been driving for 35 years and never had an issue with any other vehicle. They cleaned the calipers and sent me on my way. I think there is an underlying issue. There is no way I should have this issue every 20,000 miles ( or less ). What else could cause this? Brake Lines? Master Cyl? Honda service want nothing to do with it. At very least I asked them to replace the calipers which they did not agree to do.
View 11 RepliesI recently had an oil change at a new shop. While I was there, they said I needed to get a power steering and brake fluid flush and recommended a fuel induction service. I have a 2003 Honda Accord with about 107,000 miles on it. The car runs fine, I have no problems. Occasionally, when I hit the brakes, there is a high pitched squeak.
I've been doing research and getting mixed results on if these services are necessary. What could be the cause of the brake noise?
My 2002 Honda Accord (225000 miles) would not start this morning. It rained all night so I am going to remove plugs, wires, and cap to dry out. The car was not choking or stalling yesterday, so I don't think it is a fuel issue i.e., fuel pump.
View 7 RepliesI accidentally left my sons 2002 Honda Accord EX engine running overnight for about 15 hours. He drove the car and said most of the gas was gone and that the car was jerking while he was driving. Will the car be fine?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2009 Accord. Twice on long trips (~40 miles) in the rain, the car started missing badly, and the check engine light began blinking on and off. The first time, I pulled over and shut it off, restarted it, and everything was fine. A few weeks later, I took it for an oil change, and told the mechanic about it. He checked for codes, but there were none. The next time it happened (again on a rainy day on the same 40 mile route), I shut it off, turned it on, and drove straight to the dealer. He said it was 2.5 qts low on oil, and that could make it act that way. I check my oil regularly, so I was really surprised at that. It hasn’t happened again, but now I’m really obsessive about checking (and recording) oil. It’s always full, never low – except that twice, after the car has sat all day in cold weather, the dipstick was dry. I drove it home (a couple of miles), let it sit for an hour and checked the oil to find it full both times. I’m religious about changing the oil, so I doubt that there’s sludge in there…
View 8 RepliesI just had my Accord's two front lower ball joints replaced, and - amazingly - the day I got it back, the ABS would kick in when the car was braking from 10-5mph. Brought it back to the mechanic, who told me very sadly (after diagnosis) that one of the ABS axle sensors had gone bad. "Related to the repair you just did?" I asked - oh, no, of course not, these things just happen sometimes. I'm not terribly happy, and not terribly convinced, and I thought hey - what better community to bounce this off of. How easy is it to hose an ABS sensor when you're replacing ball joints?
View 6 RepliesThis is for a 2002 Honda Accord, SE 4 Cyl.
For over a year I have been getting a CEL for a misfire of Cylinders 1 and 2. I did a standard tune up, Changing the spark plugs, wires and distributor cap, but to no avail. Having reached the end of my knowledge, I took it to the Honda dealership to see if they could fix it. They told me it was the ignition coil, so I replaced the coil. That didn't solve the problem so I brought it back to the dealership, which proceeded to tell me that I needed to use Honda spark plug wires and distributor cap. They replaced the wires and cap with Honda parts and told me it was fixed. On the drive home, I noticed the misfire again. Back to the dealership. 2 weeks later I finally get sick of waiting and go pick up my car. Here's the list of things they claim they tried:
Compression Check
Sea Foam
Swapping fuel injectors
Changing the distributor
After none of these things worked, I decided to take the car to another mechanic, who told me that the distrubutor and EGR valve needed replacing. They assured me that that was the problem, but after that didn't work, they still charged me to adjust the valves.
Later I tried changing the PCV valve, now losing hope that anything would work....and no, that didn't work.
Strangely enough, as winter rolled around the CEL went off, and the car misfired much less. Now summer is back, and so is the CEL...
I change my oil in my car myself and I have been doing so for a while. Just today I bought a 5 quart jug of Valvoline Synthetic Blend 5w-20 (on sale) and a Purolator PureOne filter (also on sale, and the first time I've used that particular filter. I changed my oil like I always did and put in 4.5 quarts of oil as stated by my manual, started her up and all is well.
Now, here's my dilemma. I let the car sit for a while as I waxed, and rechecked the oil and its low (a tad bit higher than the lower mark on the dipstick). I feel like my car has a bottomless oil pit. I do not want to add more oil than I need to, however I feel like if I added enough oil to bring it to the upper mark it would take the whole darn 5-quart jug, if not more. Whats going on here?! I've never seemed to notice this before.
By the way, this is for a 2002 Honda Accord 2.3 Liter engine with VTEC.
Cranks, but won't start. I spark tested 2 of the 6 cylinders and saw only 2 sparks and no more each time I attempted cranking. They were strong, good looking sparks. I spark tested with an Autocraft Ignition Tester, Part No. AC657, from Advance Auto.
View 5 Replies